marc121
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by marc121 on May 1, 2023 19:52:09 GMT -5
Trying to put together a harness with a Telecaster 5-way Super Switch, one that would run Series HOoP.
(I am a beginner guitar player x 1 1/2 years).
This will be the third telecaster build for me. Having a great time with this new adventure as an old
retiree.
Some diagrams I have looked at show a resistor or two attached to a five way Superswitch, along with a
capacitor, and a few showed neither capacitor nor resistor. I think one appeared to have a diode or two on the
superswitch.
What is the advantage or result of adding a resistor in one of the diagrams that shows a single capacitor, and
where would it be attached?
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Post by gckelloch on May 2, 2023 4:10:19 GMT -5
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Post by stevewf on May 2, 2023 19:08:57 GMT -5
Here's a quick try at a 5-way that gives a SFOoP* config: It doesn't use a resistor, since I don't know exactly where it would go. I think those drawings adhere to Seymour Duncan's colors for the pickup leads. I figured on the pickups being mutually RWRP, with the Neck pickup having a north magnet. A normally-wired Tele would be hum-cancelling in middle position that way. In both drawings, positions #1 #2 and #3 act like a normal Tele. In particular, position #2 has the pickups in parallel, in phase. In both drawings, position #4 puts the pickups in series, in phase. In #5, they're put in series, out of phase, with one coil filtered. Choose one drawing or the other; in the top drawing, it's the Neck pickup that gets filtered, and in the bottom drawing, the Bridge. As an aside, one entire pole of the Superswitch remains unused - that just about amounts to heresy in this forum . Here are some options off the top of my head for using that extra pole, if you're looking for kicks: - select a different capacitor for the tone control. Unless you use drastically different cap values, this will be a subtle difference- using a 2-gang pot for the volume control (with different resistance values in each gang), switch to a different volume pot value when in positions #4 and #5 (suggest 250KΩ for #1 #2 #3, and 500KΩ for the other two positions). This could require modding the pot (well, two pots), though there are dual-value pots from Fender available. This will be a subtle difference; if you don't go for this, staying with 250KΩ is probably better. - Drill a hole in the control plate, mount an LED in it, stuff a battery in the guitar and have the LED light up when your'e in positions #4 and #5, just to make sure everyone notices! LOL.
* "FOoP" is better. SFOoP in this case. Having read Achieving Arbitrary Out-of-Phase-ness (Incl. Literal HOoP) by Yogi B, I'd like to use "Filtered Out of Phase" instead of "Half Out of Phase" in circuits like what I've drawn above. My efforts to change the usage are probably too late, but here I go anyway.
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marc121
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
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Post by marc121 on Jun 11, 2023 22:36:42 GMT -5
Using a diagram of this sort, found on this forum, would it be practical or needed to also add in a Treble Bleed circuit?
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Post by JohnH on Jun 12, 2023 3:35:07 GMT -5
Hi Marc, If you want a treble-bleed circuit, you can add it on that diagram. It's really an independent thing. It helps to control treble loss as you turn volume down. On a 250k volume pot, I like a 120k resistor in parsllel with 1000pF, or 820pF. I like them but somehow 99.9% of guitars and guitarists don't have them and seem to get by!
On the SHOop ideas, ie, it's two coils in series and one partly bypassed? My suggestion would be either a cap at around 22 to 47nF (like a tone cap in value) across one coil. Or a resistor, something like 5-10k. Worth trying across either the bridge or the neck coil, and it'd be up to your ears to decide.
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