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Post by pyrroz on May 11, 2023 8:25:40 GMT -5
Hi
I came across this :
Anyone tried it?
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Post by sumgai on May 11, 2023 8:46:17 GMT -5
Probably should ask newey, seeing as how it comes from a city not too far from where he lives. Perhaps he's seen it on local player's guitars, who knows..... |
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Post by newey on May 11, 2023 11:14:35 GMT -5
The company is only about 10km from my front door, but no, never seen or heard of them. $175 seems a bit steep IMO, and it said something about needing a guitar with a bullet-style truss rod, I didn't see if they had other models.
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Post by Yogi B on May 11, 2023 17:23:42 GMT -5
it said something about needing a guitar with a bullet-style truss rod, I didn't see if they had other models. I agree it is poorly communicated but the latest model is now compatible with bullet-style truss rods, and not only compatible with. (It was updated with a channel on the underside to accommodate the bullet.) It's (almost, bar the floating aspect) an idea Fender had in the '80s, and obviously it didn't catch on that time around ( image from fuzzfaced): |
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Post by newey on May 11, 2023 17:46:27 GMT -5
I mean, it's got the nice little grub screws so you don't need an allen wrench like with a regular Floyd locking nut. But I could just as easily pick up a Floyd Locking nut off Ebay for probably $15 or so, and throw an Allen key in the case. Little tougher to retune, but I'd save a bundle. (Come to think, I don't even need to do that, I've got one in the spare parts bin already . . .  ) But for me, this is really a non-issue. I use 10-gauge (or thicker)strings and never use a whammy bar. With a few exceptions (ones that probably need some TLC from yours truly), my guitars pretty much stay in tune. Got an EH tuner on the pedalboard, and if it needs a tuning tweak every now and then, BFD. |
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Post by pyrroz on May 12, 2023 2:40:20 GMT -5
The company is only about 10km from my front door, but no, never seen or heard of them. $175 seems a bit steep IMO, and it said something about needing a guitar with a bullet-style truss rod, I didn't see if they had other models.
Yes, 175 is way too much.
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Post by pyrroz on May 12, 2023 2:44:22 GMT -5
I mean, it's got the nice little grub screws so you don't need an allen wrench like with a regular Floyd locking nut. But I could just as easily pick up a Floyd Locking nut off Ebay for probably $15 or so, and throw an Allen key in the case. Little tougher to retune, but I'd save a bundle I think the point is to keep the guitar original with no structural interventions. Hmm could a floyd nut just be accommodated behind the strat nut and work pretty much in the same fashion ? Hmmm!!!! no fine tuning but we'll live with this!
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Post by ozboomer on May 13, 2023 2:20:53 GMT -5
P'raps this post is a major red herring... but just to add something to the discussion about 'tuning stability'... Disclaimers: I come from an environment where I'm only playing at home; I don't use the tremolo for massive dive bombs, etc; my guitars are mostly in a stable climate (from day to day.. even in Melbourne, au  ); ...I don't play so hard that the strings jump off a standard Jazzmaster bridge... and I am NOT going to get into philosophical arguments about 'tone wood' and intonation systems ('just' intonation or 'equal' temperament, etc) Those things being said... Something I've learnt in the last dozen+ years or so of wandering the 'nuthouse'... is that the tuning stability comes down to a few things (mostly) away from the bridge:- - using good quality strings (that don't keep stretching during every practice session);
- ensuring the tuners are reliably stable;
- the nut is of the correct height and the slots are wide/deep enough (but not too wide/deep) - the material probably doesn't matter much (note disclaimer re: environment and usage) as long as it's stable;
- to have 'appropriate' (Ack! Hate the word) tension in the strings (particularly, if you have a tremolo system fitted);
- to use harmonics when tuning (and particularly) when intonating the guitar;
- to NOT tune the guitar strings using only open string notes (in general, how often do you play open notes anyway , 'Open D', etc tunings excluded) - tune with fretted notes, probably mostly near the 3rd & 5th frets (depending on bridge/nut height); and
- using the 'right' touch when playing, particularly if you have high frets on the guitar.
Fix all these these issues first... and you mightn't need to do anything about the bridge at all. |
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Post by pyrroz on May 14, 2023 14:57:41 GMT -5
P'raps this post is a major red herring... but just to add something to the discussion about 'tuning stability'... Disclaimers: I come from an environment where I'm only playing at home; I don't use the tremolo for massive dive bombs, etc; my guitars are mostly in a stable climate (from day to day.. even in Melbourne, au ); ...I don't play so hard that the strings jump off a standard Jazzmaster bridge... and I am NOT going to get into philosophical arguments about 'tone wood' and intonation systems ('just' intonation or 'equal' temperament, etc) Those things being said... Something I've learnt in the last dozen+ years or so of wandering the 'nuthouse'... is that the tuning stability comes down to a few things (mostly) away from the bridge:- - using good quality strings (that don't keep stretching during every practice session);
- ensuring the tuners are reliably stable;
- the nut is of the correct height and the slots are wide/deep enough (but not too wide/deep) - the material probably doesn't matter much (note disclaimer re: environment and usage) as long as it's stable;
- to have 'appropriate' (Ack! Hate the word) tension in the strings (particularly, if you have a tremolo system fitted);
- to use harmonics when tuning (and particularly) when intonating the guitar;
- to NOT tune the guitar strings using only open string notes (in general, how often do you play open notes anyway , 'Open D', etc tunings excluded) - tune with fretted notes, probably mostly near the 3rd & 5th frets (depending on bridge/nut height); and
- using the 'right' touch when playing, particularly if you have high frets on the guitar.
Fix all these these issues first... and you mightn't need to do anything about the bridge at all.
ehmmm the whole point of the original post was about something away from the bridge ?
IMHO the worse foe of staying in tune with a standard strat bridge : a) too many wraps on the tuners b) wrong angle of strings post-nut (between nut and tuners)
c) non-roller string trees d) Inadequate lubrication of the nut slots, IMHO the material matters.
That been said, I'd prefer a standard bridge to the floyd one. Floyd is too much hassle for some benefit one can achieve otherwise.
Heck Yngwie the great dive bombs without problems and the guitar stays perfectly in tune. So why can't you or me.
PS
I tried my stupid idea (to fit a locking nut post the vintage stock nut), didn't work, cannot do this without fine tuners on the locking system at the nut.
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Post by pyrroz on May 15, 2023 1:21:53 GMT -5
Also this is relevant :
Nevertheless, too much trouble for something that can be dealt with via a good setup.
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)
); ...I don't play so hard that the strings jump off a standard Jazzmaster bridge... and I am NOT going to get into philosophical arguments about 'tone wood' and intonation systems ('just' intonation or 'equal' temperament, etc)