Post by stevewf on Jul 1, 2023 23:40:06 GMT -5
Poking around at retailers' websites, we're offered various pot tapers and resistance values, and "no-load" pots. But which ones to use in what circuits?
Let's get some terminology in common, to begin with. I'll type in some assertions; please post any needed corrections!
I'm only familiar with passive guitar systems, so I hope to focus on that for now.
The title of the thread asks for insights. There's always the "Do what sounds right to you!" (and rightly so), but I bet wisdom of some can save time of others. So, are there rules of thumb?
Here's an example though experience: I have a gitbox with a series/parallel switch. It has a knob for lowering the signal the South coil. For series mode, I ended up using an Audio taper for shorting the coil, while in parallel mode there's a Reverse-Audio pot for choking that same coil (the single knob controls a dual-gang pot). I also decided to cut the resistive track to make them "No-Load".
It sounds right to me now. But I bumbled around to get there. For instance, I first tried a regular Audio taper for the parallel setting, and I got all the action at one extreme end of the knob's rotation. Had I known, maybe I wouldn't have this little soldering iron burn mark on my thumb right now...
So, any Rules of Thumb?
Let's get some terminology in common, to begin with. I'll type in some assertions; please post any needed corrections!
- "Audio" tapers are also called "Logarithmic".
- "Reverse-Audio" tapers are graphically mirror-image counterparts of the "Audio" ones
- "Linear" tapers' graphs are symmetrical
- "Other" tapers are less commonly used inside guitars, and could considered on a type-by-type basis
- Aside from taper, there are "No-Load" pots whose resistive tracks don't bright the two outer terminals
- There are many Values of pots, a few of which are commonly used in passive guitars, and others in active guitars
I'm only familiar with passive guitar systems, so I hope to focus on that for now.
The title of the thread asks for insights. There's always the "Do what sounds right to you!" (and rightly so), but I bet wisdom of some can save time of others. So, are there rules of thumb?
Here's an example though experience: I have a gitbox with a series/parallel switch. It has a knob for lowering the signal the South coil. For series mode, I ended up using an Audio taper for shorting the coil, while in parallel mode there's a Reverse-Audio pot for choking that same coil (the single knob controls a dual-gang pot). I also decided to cut the resistive track to make them "No-Load".
It sounds right to me now. But I bumbled around to get there. For instance, I first tried a regular Audio taper for the parallel setting, and I got all the action at one extreme end of the knob's rotation. Had I known, maybe I wouldn't have this little soldering iron burn mark on my thumb right now...
So, any Rules of Thumb?