Help needed for custom guitar electronics & wiring

[gerinski]

Hi all, I just introduced myself in the new members thread but here it goes again, my name is Gerard (nickname Gerinski), I'm from Barcelona, Spain.
I'm currently developing a project for building my own self-designed custom guitar (solid-body electric) but I know little about guitar building, and I hope to find precious advice here from more experienced members!
I'm sure many questions will come up along the project development, but for the time being my first question is about wiring the electronics.

My idea is a HSH in which both humbuckers could have selection for S or H mode (in principle with a mini sliding switch similar to Brian May's Red Special's), then 3 mini-toggle switches for On/Off of each pickup, 1 volume and 1 tone.
No 3 or 5 position selector switches.
I own a Carvin DC-135 HSS which has just the 3 mini-toggle switches for On/Off of each pickup + 1 Volume + 1 Tone. And I'm used to this setup and I like it. So the only difference would be replacing the Neck S by an H, and adding the selectors of S/H mode for both humbuckers.
In this way I can have a lot of possible combinations.
The provisional looks of the controls is shown in the image below.

I have not decided completely about the pickups but in principle I am thinking of those of the Ibanez JEM, at least both humbuckers, so:

Neck: DiMarzio Evolution Neck
Middle: I am considering 2 options, either the DiMarzio SDS-1, or the DiMarzio ISCV2 (which is the one actually used in the JEM)
Bridge: DiMarzio Evolution Bridge

So first of all, do you think this setup makes sense? 
And if so, could anyone advise me about the wiring?

Thanks in advance!
Gerard

[newey]

gerinski-

Hello And Welcome to G-Nutz2! (I know you introduced yourself in the other thread, but I happened to come here first).

It sounds like an interesting project, and I'm sure you'll find many members willing to help.

A couple of points you may wish to consider: First, it is a whole lot easier to drill a round hole for a toggle switch than to cut a rectangle for a slide switch. It is also easier to manipulate a toggle switch quickly while playing live.

Second, small toggle switches of the double-pole, double throw type ("DPDT") On-On-On variety are readily available. With a 3-position On-On-On toggle, you could have just 3 switches to do everything you want. The middle pickup would get just a 2-position on-off switch. Each HB would get an On-On-On toggle to give either the full HB, split coil, or off. I think that would simplify your switching tremendously, down to 3 switches from 5.

The same thing could also be done with 3-position slide switches if you're truly enamored with slide switches. Just some things to consider.

Also, you should plan on splitting the neck HB to the opposite coil as the bridge HB, so that when you have both HBs in split-coil mode, the combination is hum-cancelling. But doing so will also mean that the M + B and the M + N settings cannot both be hum-cancelling, you'd have to pick one or the other.

We'll be happy to help with a wiring diagram after things are finalized

[gerinski]

Hello Newey, thanks a lot for your answer.
What you say about the toggles and the sliding switches is right, it's better to have just 3 toggles and discard the sliding switches, even moreso since I don't want a pickguard, so drilling rectangles in the wood and fixing the sliding switches would be difficult. Below I post the updated image. Regarding the 3-position switches, I know that some people prefer the Off in the middle position, but since I'm used to the Carvin switches where the Off in on the up position I rather have the setup: Up = Off, Middle = S, Down = HB. Makes sense?

A couple more questions come to mind:

1. How do I know which is the North and the South pole in the PUs? Does it make a difference which pole is closest to the bridge or closest to the neck?
2. Regarding the hum-cancelling combinations, I would say it's better to have hum-cancelling in the M+B and not in the M+N. Does it make sense?
3. For the Split position in the humbuckers, which coil pole is best to have on and which off? 
4. My drawing shows the controls from the front. I'm not sure if the convention is this or rather it's from the back (neck to the left). I can easily reverse the drawing if that's the convention.

Thanks in advance
Gerard

[newey]

Let's go in reverse order of your questions:

Jul 13, 2023 2:48:15 GMT -5 gerinski said:

4. My drawing shows the controls from the front. I'm not sure if the convention is this or rather it's from the back (neck to the left). I can easily reverse the drawing if that's the convention.

Your drawing is a "layout diagram", looking at the front of the guitar. When we do a wiring diagram, it is done looking from the rear, since that's the position of the components when you wire things.

3. For the Split position in the humbuckers, which coil pole is best to have on and which off?

Three considerations on this. First, ideally you'd want one N and one S coil for hum cancellation. Second, you may want the split coil to be the screw coil for fine adjustment. Third, the position of the coil. This mattters more at the bridge position than at the neck (because the string moves more at the neck than at the bridge, coil position at the neck often doesn't mean much in terms of sound difference).

2. Regarding the hum-cancelling combinations, I would say it's better to have hum-cancelling in the M+B and not in the M+N. Does it make sense?

Yes, if you will use the M + N combination less often than B + M.

1. How do I know which is the North and the South pole in the PUs? Does it make a difference which pole is closest to the bridge or closest to the neck?

For your Dimarzio pickups, see here, a chart of wire colors and polarities. For the Ibanez single coil, you'll likely need to test for its polarity, which is easily done. With the pickups unmounted, put the face of the middle pickup onto each coil of one of the humbuckers (for which you will know the polarity from the chart above). Opposites attract, like coils repel.

As for coil position, see #3 above.

[gerinski]

Jul 13, 2023 5:53:10 GMT -5 newey said:

3. For the Split position in the humbuckers, which coil pole is best to have on and which off?

Three considerations on this. First, ideally you'd want one N and one S coil for hum cancellation. Second, you may want the split coil to be the screw coil for fine adjustment. Third, the position of the coil. This mattters more at the bridge position than at the neck (because the string moves more at the neck than at the bridge, coil position at the neck often doesn't mean much in terms of sound difference).

Thanks!
Well the DiMarzio Evolutions have both coils with screws.
Excuse my ignorance but may I ask why usually only one of the coils have the adjustment screws?

[newey]

Not an ignorant question at all. I suspect (but this is mere conjecture on my part) that it is because the original Seth Lover humbuckers, the so-called "PAF", had only one coil with screws. Those coils were covered with a chrome cover, but people started removing the covers because they thought it provided a fuller sound (it does do so, to an extent). So, players became used to the look of one slug coil and one screw coil and pickup makers tend to mimic the original PAF design.

Guitarists are very conservative when it comes to equipment. Things don't change much. Fender is still building essentially the same Stratocaster and Telecaster they've been building for 50+ years. Fender has come out with any number of new designs since then; none of those has become popular. Same with Gibson's LP and SG style guitars; they remain popular, and Gibson's other designs since then have not taken hold of the marketplace.

So, I don't know but I suspect that's the explanation. It's another of those "well, we've always done it that way" kinds of things.

[Yogi B]

Jul 13, 2023 11:27:58 GMT -5 newey said:

the original Seth Lover humbuckers, the so-called "PAF", had only one coil with screws.

The original original (and the one depicted in figs. 2—5 of the patent) had no screws:

From Seymour Duncan's interview with Seth Lover, 1978-06-13:

you see when I first designed this I had the cover plain on the original one… I wanted them to sell it without any adjusting screws because I found that with this there was much difference between the first and second strings like there is on most of the old non adjustable type there was quite a difference in the first and second string but this didn’t seem to have that major difference, and I thought it was not necessary to have pole pieces… well when you take away a talking point from a salesman it’s like breaking off your arm… The first thing I came up with an idea was just fake some things there so I stamped them on the cover, that didn’t please them either, by that time we already made the patent application… that’s why it went through that way, so they finally decided they wanted screws in there, so I put adjusting screws in it for them, then the question they asked me then was which way should those screws set? Should they set up or down? Well you’ve got to give them an answer so I decided to take the one closest to the fingerboard and put the screws facing it and the one closest to the bridge towards the bridge! [Laugh] that made them happy, they had a set way that it should be set, it only amounted to turning the pickup around…

That doesn't quite answer the question: it explains the presence of any screws, but not explicitly why only one row. I guess once capitulating to one set of adjustable poles to make the salesmen happy there was no reason to think about adding another row: coil splitting wasn't a thing in the '50s, so really only one row is required to adjust the combined output of the pickup. Plus, even if the idea had been suggested, perhaps the desire was for the PAF to remain somewhat aesthetically in keeping with the single row of screws found on the pickup it was replacing: the P-90.

[gerinski]

Thanks Newey and Yogi B!
Well I think I'm getting there.
As I said for the Middle PU I'm considering 2 options:


DiMarzio SDS-1

www.dimarzio.com/pickups/standard-strat/sds-1



or DiMarzio ISCV2 (which is the one actually used in the JEM). This one is not listed for sale in the DiMarzio website for some unknown reason, but it's available at several online stores, here I found some of its specs


www.dimarzioforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=434.0


Anyone who could give me any advice which one may be better as a combination with the DiMarzio Evolution Neck & Bridge?

www.dimarzio.com/pickups/high-power/evolution-bridge?v=21551


www.dimarzio.com/pickups/medium-power/evolution-neck?v=21395

Thanks

[gerinski]

Hello I have another question, can this setup be made also with EMG active pickups? (do the HBs also have the Coil Split mode?)

Thanks!

EDIT: I have seen in the EMG website that their TW humbucker models do indeed allow S or HB modes, but I'm still asking your advice as to whether my setup would be possible with the appropriate wiring.

[gerinski]

Hello,
No one who can confirm if my setup above is feasible with EMG active pickups? (using their TW humbuckers which allow for S or HB modes).

And another question, Newey said about my layout "Also, you should plan on splitting the neck HB to the opposite coil as the bridge HB, so that when you have both HBs in split-coil mode, the combination is hum-cancelling. But doing so will also mean that the M + B and the M + N settings cannot both be hum-cancelling, you'd have to pick one or the other".

Does this also apply to EMG actives? (as I understand they do not suffer from hum anyway, or very little so)

Thanks!

[newey]

gerinski-

I can't think of any reason why it shouldn't work with EMGs, but I've never used EMGs and am unfamiliar with wiring them. You're probably right about the noise issue but again, I'm not sure. Someone else (with more knowledge) will probably weigh in on this.

[gerinski]

Thanks newey,

At the beginning I was only thinking about passives for my project but one of the luthiers I have been visiting is quite in love with EMGs and he left me wondering if they could be a good option. I never played them but I'm currently trying to educate myself about the actives in several websites and forums.

I remain open to hearing opinions from other members. At any rate if the luthier likes EMGs he should know how to wire them, it's his job not yours to come up with the appropriate wiring diagram, but I would be interested in having a wiring diagram from some expert member to cross-check with the luthier's. 

But I'm NOT asking yet for any wiring diagram, I might ask that only when I have made up my mind 100%. I do not want any members to waste time because of me.

[gerinski]

Finally I made up my mind and I am going for the EMG actives (models below).
I got in contact with EMG and their Anthony was very kind. He told me that for my setup I will need 4PDT toggle switches (12 pin) for the humbuckers and an SPDT or DPDT toggle (6 pin) for the single.
He told me that he needs a bit of time to think about it and to produce a wiring diagram, but that he thinks it will be possible.
So I'm quite happy, if he manages to make it work I will post the wiring diagram here for your reference.

[gerinski]

I already received the wiring diagram from EMG's Anthony, he has been super-kind and fast, I can only thank him and congratulate EMG for having such a great customer service!

Here goes the wiring diagram in case anybody is interested