|
|
Post by cloberellabeatsuup on May 20, 2024 21:54:18 GMT -5
OK so I have a Squier Affinity Strat, it has been spray painted white and then Jackson Pollacked with goopy glittery gunk. If the drizzles weren't so pronounced, I might not even care. But it's too much....
I think that the poly(ester? urethane?) gloss is still on there, as it doesn't feel like bare wood. I don't even care if what I do takes off the finish, but if possible, I'd rather just get the other paints off.
Idk if the goopy stuff is acrylic, oil, watercolor, though I would guess acrylic? And the spray paint is under it. How do I get it off? I am afraid to sop on water or alcohol or dish soap. Or take a sharp putty knife to it and do my best?
I don't have access to electric sander or heat gun or chemical paint strippers. I have 70% isopropyl alcohol, baking soda, water, dish soap, car wash soap, apple cider vinegar, pinesol, bleach....and sandpaper and old credit cards and my two elbows. Thank you!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by newey on May 21, 2024 11:47:04 GMT -5
Under that spray paint and goop you're likely to find the infamous "Fullerplast" which is essenttially a plastic coating applied to the wood bodies before painting. Getting all the rest of the stuff off there will be child's play compared with the plastic stuff underneath. It was unclear from your post whether the plan was to go all the way to bare wood or to just get the questionable refinishing off. If you do go to bare wood, don't expect much from a cheap Squier body, it will likely have filler used, like Bondo on a car body. I've tried all sorts of different chemical strippers and none of them worked. Only sanding worked, and lots of it. The sanding sheets will clog up quickly and require frequent changing out. Depending on what the "goop" is, though, a chemical stripper might get that off, down to the original finish at least. Why do you not have access to chemicals, heat gun, etc.? Alcohol, baking soda etc. probably won't touch the finish. I use a little black and Decker hand sander that I think I paid about 30 bucks for. It does the job . . . eventually. If someone else has a better technique, I'm all ears. But I always expect to put in a lot of labor to remove the finish from (most) guitars. I have also just stripped guitars down to the point where I was into the plastic stuff, got it smoothed out, roughened the surface a bit for adhesion, then just sprayed over the top, using enamel paint. For nitro finishes, test for compatibility first if your not going over the bare wood. Again, others here may have better ideas. cynical1 is our resident refinishing guru, perhaps he'll pop in on this. |
|
|
|
Post by gckelloch on May 21, 2024 17:07:48 GMT -5
...or skip the hassle and get a finished 2-piece Alder body for ~$100 on eBay?
|
|
|
|
Post by newey on May 21, 2024 20:45:41 GMT -5
...or skip the hassle and get a finished 2-piece Alder body for ~$100 on eBay? Entirely sensible. I'd value my labor as worth at least $25 per hour. Would I invest more than 4 hours into the hard work of stripping this? Probably yes, I would, making the DIY route a losing proposition compared with the $100 body. But, then again, the DIY route comes with the satisfaction of, well, doing it yourself. The satisfaction portion seems all that much sweeter after the frustration one inevitably goes through to get that end result.  |
|
|
|
Post by mikecg on May 22, 2024 8:22:34 GMT -5
OK so I have a Squier Affinity Strat, it has been spray painted white and then Jackson Pollacked with goopy glittery gunk. If the drizzles weren't so pronounced, I might not even care. But it's too much.... I think that the poly(ester? urethane?) gloss is still on there, as it doesn't feel like bare wood. I don't even care if what I do takes off the finish, but if possible, I'd rather just get the other paints off. Idk if the goopy stuff is acrylic, oil, watercolor, though I would guess acrylic? And the spray paint is under it. How do I get it off? I am afraid to sop on water or alcohol or dish soap. Or take a sharp putty knife to it and do my best? I don't have access to electric sander or heat gun or chemical paint strippers. I have 70% isopropyl alcohol, baking soda, water, dish soap, car wash soap, apple cider vinegar, pinesol, bleach....and sandpaper and old credit cards and my two elbows. Thank you!!! Hello cloberellabeatsuup, It could be tricky to get the "goopy gunk" off while leaving the original finish undamaged, however you could try this: www.walmart.com/ip/Goof-Off-Professional-Strength-Remover-6-fl-Oz-Latex-Paint-and-Adhesive-Remover/49772647?athbdg=L1200&from=/searchIf it doesn't work, you have only wasted a few dollars, and you may find other uses for it? If you are thinking of stripping back to bare wood, well - that's a major time consuming, and messy job! I don't think I can improve on newey 's previous suggestions, concerning the use of chemicals and abrasives. |
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on May 24, 2024 5:57:45 GMT -5
Klean Strip Premium Stripper. The can looks different than it used to...  You should also look for the Paint Stripper After Wash You'll also need a plastic scraper and some Scotch-Brite pads. Rubber gloves are recommended, as it contains ingredients found to cause your junk to fall off by the State of California... Don't sweat the heat gun and metal scraper. Even on the lowest setting you can linger too long in one spot and easily burn the wood with those things. Then there's the old fashioned way involving a box of sandpaper...and a case of tendinitis... Any of these methods will take time, repetition and a fair amount of tedium. Most of the catalyst\plastic finishes are designed to be chip and abrasion resistant. As an aside, if all you're going to do is repaint it, it isn't necessary to remove the finish down to the wood. Scraping and sanding down to a smooth surface is all you'll need to accomplish. Acetone may remove the "drizzles" and some progressive sanding (I.E.: 60 grit up to 320 grit sandpaper) should leave you with a surface that can accept a new finish. If you use lacquer to repaint there may be some lifting of the original finish due to the solvents found in lacquer...but my guess is that Fender put some God awfully hard finish designed to survive the Rapture...so don't sweat the solvents. As always, feel free to ask any questions. Happy Trails Cynical One
|
|
