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Post by fishingforbass on Jun 12, 2024 14:38:49 GMT -5
Hello everyone,
I am kind of a novice when it comes to wiring and all the math involved with things like capacitors and transformers and what not. I have looked at multiple resources regarding converting the active circuit for my 2015 Ibanez SR505's Bartolini Mk1 pickups to passive, and I would like to use all 5 knobs with the soon-to-be wiring harness. I came across ssstonelover's diagram which I will post for reference, but I have a few issues:
1 - Every capacitor and resistor I see on mouser.com seems to have percentages, and resistors have wattages, which the diagram does not show. I am wondering if these percentages and wattages matter in terms of the electrical current and/or effect tone in anyway, or if I need a specific percentage and wattage.
2 - I cannot seem to find the 2.6H Xicon 42TL018 transformer, or the SMD ED8 600:600 mini transformer. I would appreciate any help to find these or something like them.
3 - I have a 1 Meg Ohm pot and would also like to know how to best incorporate this, either as the volume or one of the frequency controls, and if this changes anything with the capacitors, resistors, and transformers I should use.
Sorry if this is a lot to ask, or if it's the wrong place to ask, but I really want to get this done and need help.
Thanks in advance
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Post by frets on Jun 12, 2024 17:40:21 GMT -5
Hi, For the audio signal transformer, here is the link, www.mouser.com/c/?q=xiconYou want the 42TL218-RC Things like wattages don’t matter in guitar electronics. Just buy something small in size. The 1 Meg Pot can be used on the Treble pot. Hope this helps. Good luck
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Post by stevewf on Jun 12, 2024 19:47:56 GMT -5
Yes, I've learned here at GN2 that the currents generated inside the guitar are very low, so even a 1/4 watt resistor will do and the smallest capacitors available seem to be 50 volts. The smaller the wattage/voltage, the smaller the physical component. The extra room given by smaller components can be a lifesaver in a crowded control cavity. On the other hand, larger components, with their larger print, can be positioned such that you can read the values in situ. That can save time later. Also, there seems to be a traditional culture where huge capacitors look better, though it doesn't move me.
As for percentages on the capacitors and resistors, that number refers to manufacturing tolerance. Ex: if the resistor claims to be 150KΩ with a 20% tolerance, it means the maker more or less guarantees that the actual value will be within 30KΩ plus or minus. If you really need to be (more) sure about the value, you can shop for closer manufacturing tolerance. Most of the time, 10% is the tightest you really need. Plus, with resistors, you can buy a dozen of them and test each one if you have a multimeter. Same for caps if you have an LCR meter.
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Post by stevewf on Jun 12, 2024 20:18:23 GMT -5
Darn, it looks like Mouser is calling the 42TL018 "obsolete". The picture calls for a 2.6H inductor, so I was reading the datasheets for the 42TL018 and others, but I didn't see it spelled out what inductance the coils had. Can anyone help with how to shop for a tiny 2.6H inductor (or for any given inductance value)?
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Post by fishingforbass on Jun 12, 2024 20:39:09 GMT -5
Ah one of the ladies themselves, thank you, that helps a lot!
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Post by fishingforbass on Jun 12, 2024 20:40:08 GMT -5
Very helpful, thank you
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Post by newey on Jun 13, 2024 4:58:24 GMT -5
fishingforbass- Sorry, but I had to move your thread as it didn't really belong in the tone control section. It looks like others have got you on the right path here, so good luck with the modifications!
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Post by ssstonelover on Jun 13, 2024 17:24:06 GMT -5
fishingforbass. If Mouser is out of stock, there are some other suppliers who sell that item (fortunately)
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