2 hum 1 vol 1 tone w/ individual push pull

[gorbash12346]

Hi,

I'm currently giving my old first guitar a revamp with new electrics / pickups etc.

It's an old Tanglewood Tomkat (looks like a cut price Patrick Eggle Berlin)

The plan is to use 1x volume and 1x tone pot both with push pull and a 3-way box type selector using the push pull to activate a coil split on the neck (volume) and the bridge (tone) pickups

This is the first time i've done this outside of fitting solderless EMG's to a les paul or fitting an Obsidian wire HSS 7-way PCB to my strat so I'm looking for some assistance in checking that my planned wiring will work properly or if i need to change anything.

Sorry about the MS paint special but hopefully it's reasonably clear?

Parts used are Dimarzio air norton for the neck and an f-spaced tone zone for the bridge, 2x CTS 500k pots with the tone using a .022 capacitor

Thanks!

[newey]

gorbash12346-

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

Your diagram looks OK, just a few points to make. First, I had no idea what a "Tanglewood Tomkat" was, or a Patrick Eggle Berlin. So I googled Tanglewood Tomkat and got a photo which showed a 2 HB guitar w/ 1V + 1T, but it already had a mini-toggle switch between the Volume and Tone pots, which the description said was a 3-way toggle to give either HB coil (for both HBs at once, apparently), with the center position as normal HB (presumably). It also said it had a push/pull on the tone to engage what it referred to as an "Entwistle Acoustic Reality Circuit (ARC)". I realize the model may have varied over the years. Does yours not have those features?

I assumed that the reference to the "Entwistle" circuit was a reference to the pickup maker Alan Enwistle, but his website didn't have any info about this "ARC" circuit. If your guitar has that, and if it is an active component (i.e., has a battery) that might change things. An active circuit might lead me to revise what I said about your drawing. And, if the guitar already has the coil cut switch, are you removing that in your revised scheme?

If your guitar is different than what I saw, and has neither of those extra switches then your diagram will bw fine. However, as you have draw it, both HBs will be split to the same coil. (This will be the red/black coil with DM pickups, I didn't go look up whether that's the screw or slug coil, North vs. South, etc.). Splitting both HBs to the same coil will not be hum-cancelling. To have the pickups hum-cancel when both are selected together, you need to split one or the other to the opposite coil, so you have one N and one S coil. This can easily be done, Rather than grounding the black/white pair to ground via the push/pull switch, wire one of the two push/pulls to the output instead of grounding it to the tone pot. Keep the other pickup as is. On the pickup having the black/white pair going to output, you'll get the white/green coil active.

If you are not concerned with hum-cancellation, then no need to change anything.

[gorbash12346]

Thanks Newey


This is the version I have. It just had a basic 2 humbuckers with a 3-way switch on this version.




It's been getting a full update with graphtech ratio locking tuners (the bushings on the old ones are shot) an application of Rustins EMI shielding paint followed by copper shielding.

A switchcraft jack, new 3-way box toggle switch (felt closer to a 5-way with the play in it.) Black Graphtech XL nut and re-dress the frets. along with a replacement Wilkinson type tremolo (the original knife edge and pins are quite badly flat spotted and creak when used)
Vintage Cloth Push Back Wire #22 AWG used throughout.


It plays really nicely despite the wear and years of abuse so I'm keen make it as good as it can be.


I hadn't thought of that for the hum-cancellation. the orientation for them is slug facing the neck and screw towards the bridge on both, Would there be any difference with which one was chosen for the split on each?

I really appreciate the help. I've been trying to get my head round this for a few days.

So if I move the Black and white wires for the neck pickup to the middle pin (blue wire on the volume pot) would that be correct for achieving hum-cancellation?

Thanks!

[newey]

Jul 16, 2024 14:14:30 GMT -5 gorbash12346 said:

So if I move the Black and white wires for the neck pickup to the middle pin (blue wire on the volume pot) would that be correct for achieving hum-cancellation?

That will indeed do it. OK, so yours is different than the one I saw, no issues with other switching. Good enough.

Would there be any difference with which one was chosen for the split on each?

Long answer to a short question! First off, we will start with the assumption that both coils of each HB are roughly identically wound. If the coils are dissimilar, like with Seymour Duncan's P-Rails™, then yes, for sure there will be a difference. If the coils are similar, there may be fairly minimal differences, depending on the locations of the individual coils in question.

Splitting the neck HB, it usually doesn't matter which coil is chosen. Further from the bridge, the string excursion is greater and each coil is probably getting roughly the same signal. At the bridge, you're more likely to hear a significant difference as the string excursion is more limited, so the variance of what each coil senses varies more widely.

Often, the coil closest to the bridge is chosen for the split, as that will be the most "treble-ey" for lead stuff. But indiviual preferences certainly vary, there are those who prefer the inner coil at the bridge. (I'm fully expecting reTrEaD to chime in with his argument for the inner coil to be split!).

Good looking guitar, BTW. I'm a sucker for the quilted greenburst finish.

[gorbash12346]

Given it's original cost the fit and finish is really good. I too have a soft spot for quilt tops and I blame this guitar in particular for my love of PRS finishes 

Not sure what can be done about the chip out of the lower edge of the fretboard but it's smoothed all round it at least.

Long answer to a short question! First off, we will start with the assumption that both coils of each HB are roughly identically wound. If the coils are dissimilar, like with Seymour Duncan's P-Rails™, then yes, for sure there will be a difference. If the coils are similar, there may be fairly minimal differences, depending on the locations of the individual coils in question.



Splitting the neck HB, it usually doesn't matter which coil is chosen. Further from the bridge, the string excursion is greater and each coil is probably getting roughly the same signal. At the bridge, you're more likely to hear a significant difference as the string excursion is more limited, so the variance of what each coil senses varies more widely.



Often, the coil closest to the bridge is chosen for the split, as that will be the most "treble-ey" for lead stuff. But individual preferences certainly vary, there are those who prefer the inner coil at the bridge. (I'm fully expecting reTrEaD to chime in with his argument for the inner coil to be split!).

Ok so if I was to switch to the south on the bridge pickup I'd move the black and white cables for the bridge pickup to the right hand terminal on the tone control (where the orange wire in my diagram terminates) is that correct?  
I'll give both a try as I've never had these particular pickups before. 

Really appreciate the help with it 

[newey]

A picture is worth a thousand, as they say . . .




I show this on the neck pickup, but you could choose to do it on the bridge pickup instead, just depends on whether you want one or the other coil. All I have done is replaced the black wire you had going to ground on the tone pot with the red wire going to the V pot (i.e., output).

[unreg]

newey, good sir, your img is kind of blurry.

[gorbash12346]

[gorbash12346]

As yet untested as I need to get the tremolo posts re-drilled as the new ones are a slightly larger diameter. Hopefully get to test it out next week