clem
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
|
Post by clem on Sept 19, 2024 13:11:44 GMT -5
Assuming that the above image was uploaded, does it look correct ? It is a stacked 250k/500K volume pot with both treble and bass cut for a single pickup, using a P/P switch .
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Sept 19, 2024 13:41:59 GMT -5
Lol idkwtfti. One thing I do know is that C1 isn’t doing anything. If we assume that pot shell is grounded, the cap has ground at both ends. If not, one end is grounded and the other end floating around still basically doing nothing. Either remove the wire to ground or preferably take that wire from the cap and don’t depend on a pot shell for a signal ground connection.
Also I thought VR4 was a bass cut, but that’s actually an R. It looks like there’s maybe some other component (the cap?) standing up there, but as drawn it seems like the wire connects to the lead that goes to the other log, which just defeats the purpose.
|
|
clem
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
|
Post by clem on Sept 19, 2024 14:01:31 GMT -5
Thanks, this is all new to me. I forgot the tone pot shell needs grounding. The resistor you see is in parallel to cap, and something I read about on the forum.
"If you put the cap before the volume control, the parallel resistance of the volume control will help in cutting the bass more than the mid and treble. You might even want to switch in an added resistance to ground in parallel with the volume control when you activate bass cut switch. Maybe 250k or so."-ReTrEad
I appreciate your input. What do you think of the switch and ganged volume pots?
|
|
|
Post by unreg on Sept 19, 2024 14:24:51 GMT -5
What do you think of the switch and ganged volume pots? About the volume pots: why choose linear taper for a volume potentiometer? Since humans hear logarithmically, it makes more sense to me to use a pot with logarithmic taper for volume; I think those are also known as type A. Turning a normal log tapered pot down exactly half way will cause the volume level to drop, for your ears, to 50%. 👍
|
|
clem
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
|
Post by clem on Sept 20, 2024 2:32:11 GMT -5
They are not linier taper, pay no attention to the values in schematic. I found a program to drop and drag. I would like to know about wires only. Are they on the correct lugs?
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Sept 20, 2024 13:42:46 GMT -5
Do you have some idea of what it’s supposed to be doing? Are you hoping we’ll figure it out for you? I can’t see a good point in following all those wires around trying to guess the intent. Maybe somebody else will find it a fun game.
|
|
|
Post by frets on Sept 20, 2024 13:47:37 GMT -5
Clem,
In the DIY Layout Creator Software you are using, you can change the color wires. That might help with figuring the wiring intent.
|
|
clem
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
|
Post by clem on Sept 20, 2024 14:40:13 GMT -5
I hope the color separation helps. the resistor that is hanging in the wind will be connected in parallel to the cap. From what I have gleaned in other forum threads, the bass roll off should work. My main question is to how the volumes pots and p/p switch wiring is configured. And before someone says, "that is not a P/P in the picture", I know but the concept is the same. The p/p I will be using is a CTS unit built into the 250K tone pot. I did not just pull this wiring diagram out of a hat. I have been reading and trying to figure is out for weeks in preparation for my first build. I am confident that I did enough homework to present this forum with a reasonably well sorted diagram, with the intent of troubleshooting an obvious mistake I may have overlooked and possibly learning some more about guitar wiring.
Thanks in advance to anyone interested in chasing the wires and offering their opinion.
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Sept 20, 2024 19:21:10 GMT -5
C1 is still not doing anything useful. I still don’t know what you think this scheme is supposed to do. Is the switch just to pick between the two volumes?!?
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Sept 20, 2024 22:29:42 GMT -5
the resistor that is hanging in the wind will be connected in parallel to the cap. Do not do that. That will only decrease the effectiveness of the bass-cut. There are cases where a resistor might be added in parallel with the volume pot, but you're already switching between a 500k volume and a 250k volume. Also, the black wire from ground to the wiper of the treble-cut tone control should be removed. With that correction, all is well but in my opinion the only usefulness would be to determine which value you prefer for the volume control. If you're doing this for testing purposes, fine. But after your evaluation, it would make more sense to just get a single pot of the desired value for the volume control and delete the push-pull. JMO YMMV
|
|
clem
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
|
Post by clem on Sept 22, 2024 21:12:00 GMT -5
Thanks. I will remove the resistor, and yes the ganged pots are for testing. I am using a rather rare pickup and want to spend a fair amount of time A/B comparison. Once the testing is done I plan on making a couple of the same guitar, one for me , one for a friend. I may end up playing around with the bass cut more, but I think this is a good start. www.stonewallpickups.com/store?store-page=Third-Eye-Single-Coil-p372233864
|
|