rominronin
Rookie Solder Flinger
Building a Franken-Jag-Stang
Posts: 4
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Post by rominronin on Oct 25, 2024 13:40:06 GMT -5
Has anyone ever tried that?
I have a couple of guitars with a p90 in the bridge. Anyone who’s played one knows how expressive the p90 can be, and how versatile. This is probably why ‘junior’ guitars (single p90) are a thing.
But they normally only have one volume and one tone, no switch.
I can’t help but think how versatile a single p90 guitar could be with. Two way switch and a volume and tone for each position.
Has anyone heard of something like this?
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Post by stevewf on Oct 25, 2024 22:03:11 GMT -5
Haven't seen or heard of that, but it seems like it could be useful for rapid switching between sounds. Sounds that have been preset, to some extent. In that way, it reminds me of a Varitone.
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Post by gckelloch on Oct 26, 2024 7:38:58 GMT -5
Has anyone ever tried that? I have a couple of guitars with a p90 in the bridge. Anyone who’s played one knows how expressive the p90 can be, and how versatile. This is probably why ‘junior’ guitars (single p90) are a thing. But they normally only have one volume and one tone, no switch. I can’t help but think how versatile a single p90 guitar could be with. Two way switch and a volume and tone for each position. Has anyone heard of something like this? Based on a recommendation by John H and my experiments with his GuitarFreak 6.6 file and the actual response of an 8.4H Gibson P90, I'd try bypassing the V and T knobs with the second switch setting and wiring just one 500k Linear pot and a 150~200pF Cap through the P90. According to the graph, that reduces the level by ~2dB and produces a very mild 4kHz+ peak when the pot is at 5 for a sweet SC chime. Mind you, that's with a combined cable and preamp input C not higher than ~250pF. Something wound even just a bit lower to ~8k ~7.5H would give some more leeway with Cable C and still allow for a 4kHz+ peak. There's not much point in switching between two sounds that roll-off by ~2.5kHz or lower when you can have one of them roll-off above 4kHz at a slightly lower volume. Definitely, don't use a treble bleed with this wiring.
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Post by newey on Oct 26, 2024 15:13:26 GMT -5
Has anyone heard of something like this? Yup, on my Hofner travel guitar It does not have an actual P-90, however, it's a GFS P-90-in-a-HB-footprint. It came with a cheapie HB which I quickly replaced. If you look closely, there is a 3-way On-On-On minitoggle between the knobs. The three positions are: both V + T controls / bypass V and T controls ("blower switch") / No V or T but with a .033µf cap to ground. It is wired like this. Cap value can be adjusted as desired, the .033 cap gives a very muted bass tone.
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Post by gckelloch on Oct 26, 2024 15:59:45 GMT -5
A 3-way switch might be nice with my SC sound suggestion. Could use a spring-loaded Strat or Tele 3-way switch. They are fast and easy access. One pos could be a "blower" with maybe a 500k trim pot over it or with the V knob and a 470k R. The 2nd pos could be the V & T knobs, and the 3rd pos could be my SC sound option. Just imagining the signal paths in my head with a Fender 3-way switch, you could add a second V knob for the SC sound if you think you'd need less output at a given tonality. The R of the 500k V knob would then be in the circuit. Not a big deal, but the SC sound would be down ~4dB instead of ~2dB when its "Tone" knob is at 5. A 1M V knob would make it down ~3dB. Still very usable, but I'd try without the second V knob. If you do use an ~8k/7~7.5H P90 and a very low C guitar cable b4 the first preamp stage, I'd add 200~300pF over the "blower" pos to bring the peak freq well below ~3kHz. I made up a diagram of the wiring I'd suggest with a 3-way switch. I used the second set of switch lugs as sends from the first lug set to the pickup. I'd try a ~1nF cap on the pos 2 Tone knob unless you want the really dark/muddy sounds a typical 10~22nF offers. It'll have a fat 1~1.6kHz boost when the knob is down. Ground the outer lug if you find it's too strong.
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