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Post by Ripper on Jul 23, 2006 10:13:26 GMT -5
I need to change the nut on a friends guitar....she trusts me!
Do I use a razor blade or something like that to remove it?
also...
What glue do I use to install the new nut?
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Post by dunkelfalke on Jul 23, 2006 11:12:39 GMT -5
a razor blade or a thin screwdriver and pliers. just be careful, that's it.
as for the new nut, even superglue is ok as long as you use only a very small amount of it. if it is a strat and the new nut is graphtech (my favourite ones) then you don't even need to glue it.
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Post by Ripper on Jul 23, 2006 11:35:30 GMT -5
Thanks dunkelfalke...
Its an acoustic, but ill give it my best shot.
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giuseppe
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Post by giuseppe on Jul 31, 2006 10:25:40 GMT -5
There is a nice tutorial on stewmac's website that will take you through removing and replacing a nut. The photo's are of an acoutic guitar so it might give you a nice point of reference. (www.stewmac.com). They recomend gluing the nut with Titebond which is a wood glue. The advantage of this over superglue is that if you screw up the placement a bit you have enough drying time to correct it. I replaced the nut on my bass and realized an hour after gluing it that it was off center by 1/16". I was able to knock back into center with the Titebond - probably would have been game over with superglue.
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Post by dunkelfalke on Jul 31, 2006 12:06:53 GMT -5
when you use superglue you have to remove the nut, clean everything and start over, yes.
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twostring
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Post by twostring on Dec 20, 2006 22:52:21 GMT -5
I don't think I would use Titebond. Although it is a wood glue, it retains some flexibility when dry, which makes it "tough" but dampens vibrations. I would use Hyde glue. It's what musical instrument makers have used for hundreds of years. It will always be removable too. It crystalizes when dry and transmits vibrations to the wood beneath it. (You might be thinking that's not very important at that end of the neck and you might be right.) The other thing about titebond is that I believe it is permanant--at least with wood against wood. Norm Abrams classifies Titebond II as one of the new "super" wood glues that is allowing cabinet makers to dispense with dowelled or biscuited joints on a table top and they're just gluing wood edge to edge. While on the subject of glue. Stay away from that "Gorilla Glue" for joints you can see. It foams up out of the joint too much and is difficult or impossible to clean off properly.
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