|
Post by hammeroff on Feb 6, 2007 23:54:33 GMT -5
I'm just curious if anybody here has had experience putting a water slide logo on a new neck. From what I understand I'm basically applying the logo to bare wood, and then clear coating the neck. I haven't really found a confirmation on whether or not water slide logo's stick to just wood or not. But I guess it'll be under a bunch of lacquer also.
|
|
|
Post by dunkelfalke on Feb 7, 2007 1:46:00 GMT -5
afair you need a lacquer coat first, because waterslide logos won't stick to bare wood.
|
|
servant
Meter Reader 1st Class
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
|
Post by servant on Feb 7, 2007 23:54:25 GMT -5
While I have never done so, I have read a lot about this. If your water-slide decals have been printed on an ink jet printer, you will want to spray three or four light clearcoats over them in order to seal the ink. Otherwise, when you soak the decal, the ink smears
|
|
|
Post by hammeroff on Feb 8, 2007 0:22:11 GMT -5
M'kay
Step one: give the neck 1-2 coats of clear
Step two: give the decal itself a coat of clear
Step three: apply logo
Step four: continue clear coating the neck and finish as normal
My only question now is: will clear coating hurt a non-ink decal?
|
|
|
Post by dunkelfalke on Feb 8, 2007 2:25:35 GMT -5
depends on the solvent in the lacquer. if it is water based then it won't hurt. also, gunze sangyo mr. top coat shouldn't damage decals.
|
|
|
Post by Runewalker on Feb 9, 2007 9:21:05 GMT -5
Testors, that old line company that makes those litte bottles of paint you used to use as a kid when you built up plane, jet or muscle car replicas, makes a couple of different paper stocks for making your own water-slide decals: one for ink jets, one for laser printers. As above these go on a surface with finish, then you build up successive layers of laquer or poly clear to evenually hide the edge of the decal. one thing about these is they are incredibly thin. My ratio of crumpled and torn to installed is pretty high. So if you are making your own then make up a bunch. Finally, getting out the bubbles underneath is critical and difficult. You need some sort of minature squeegee, and the thing wants to slide around as you try to move the bubbles out. You can pin pr ck them but that does risk showing. RW
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 16, 2007 7:36:36 GMT -5
Here's a site that suggests after appling the logo, lightly spray on a few coats to 'seal it' , then do the regular spraying. home.flash.net/~guitars/Fenderneck.htmlMy original logo got destroyed when the guy refinishing the neck by doing exactly what you not suppose to do...he put that green painters tape on it claimed he did it lots before...then covered it up witha poor paintjob.... long story short I have order a NOS logo from sweden, didnt have to pay for the refinishing of teh neck, which i did commend him on, good job, kinda mixed feelings tho... I'll post the instructions from the water-slide if they differ to offer more options on appling them
|
|
|
Post by hammeroff on Feb 16, 2007 16:19:31 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help guys! I just got the logo today, now I just need the neck If you live in my neck of the woods, tip the pizza guy really good!
|
|
|
Post by dunkelfalke on Feb 16, 2007 17:21:11 GMT -5
i do have a couple of spare necks
|
|