Whats a zero fret?

[Ripper]

What is the purpose of the "zero" fret?

[ChrisK]

3. To provide the same action (string height) over the first fret as a normally fretted (on fret 1 to whatever) string does.

2. It also reduces the intonation issues compared to a normal nut on a mass-produced commercially available guitar (which have less than excellent nut work).

1. No nut filing (or nut) is required, only just a string guide!

[sumgai]

4. Tone. Same material as the rest of the frets. 'Open' strings sound like they do when fretted. Your choice as to whether that's good or otherwise.

[dunkelfalke]

5. a zero fret is needed on a headless because it hasn't got a real nut.

[beckerologly]

hey, I'm not sure if this post is appropriate here, but when I buy a new guitar I want it to be easy to do vibrato- and I'm not talking rock vibrato, I'm talking classical style where you shake the string parallel to the string - raising and lowering the pitch.
Maybe having a zero fret or some free string over the other side of the nut will help me achieve this? Or are certain scale lengths better for this sort of thign?

[ChrisK]

I'm talking classical style where you shake the string parallel to the string - raising and lowering the pitch

If you mean inducing vibrato (thank you for using the proper term, it ain't tremolo) as violin (fret-less) string players (or B. B. King) do, it can be done, but is more difficult than on a fret-less instrument.

I've found that for me, the easiest way is to use tall frets (6105) and vary the fretting pressure behind the fret. Again, for me, this is easy to do.

Some folks might go the other way and use low frets such as on the Gibson "fret-less wonders" that had been made with really low frets (almost just fret markers).

Maybe having a zero fret or some free string over the other side of the nut will help me achieve this?

This will keep the string action (height) lowest at the nut so there will be less pitch change as the string is fretted at the first fret (the string is "bent/depressed" less). This would make doing what you want easier IMHO.

There ain't much need for a compensating nut when a nut ain't used (said he in an Earvanaless manner).

Or are certain scale lengths better for this sort of thing?

Well, Gibson's usually have a scale length of 24 3/4", Fender's usually have 25 1/2", and PRS' usually have 25".

The shorter the scale length for a given absolute note, the less the string tension and the easier the string bending (and the less bright the tone).

[beckerologly]

thanks for the reply, yes I can do the classical vibrato a little, but its so hard it's not really effective... I really like how the whammy bar users can do it (i'm still talking subtle stuff here )
Sounds like experimentation with frets are the best option, I really do like that BB king feel... you can really 'feel' the notes

[ChrisK]

Yeah, I do the B. B. King type of stuff, but I don't shake my hand as he does. At best this approach gives a subtle vibrato with such subtle frets.

I prefer to modulate the downward pressure on the string just behind the fret (as far behind as my big fingertips have to be). It's very touch dependent. On a huge fret size such as a 6100, the effect is more than subtle, and the operator has to pay close attention to one's "working grip" on things. For me, again I prefer the 6105's.

For small chord vibrato, I tend to slightly modulate the Wilkinson vibrato bridge (which I rarely "arm" with the arm). If the particular guitar doesn't have a vibrato, I just don't play chords, only strings.

I have an Ibanez Ghostrider with a thin mahogany neck that easily flexes for said effect.