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Post by sumgai on Mar 13, 2007 10:48:54 GMT -5
I don't know how long this page will stay up, but...... Rather than try to insert this into some other thread where we've addressed some of the fret job tasks, I thought I'd just let the whole thing hang out in front of Gawd and everybody.  www.lemuelguitars.com/fretjob.htmlThis here's a photo essay of how to do a complete fret job, sans any written explanation. Most of it is self explanatory, but for the curious, this guy is removing the old, and reinserting the new, frets from the side, just as Leo decreed, some 56 years ago. This is exactly why when you take frets out of a Fender neck, the wood tends to chip up at the very edges of the groove - the fret tangs never went in that way in the first place! Other comments forthcoming, as questions are asked.  sumgai p.s. If the page owner asks, or if he just removes the page, I'll remove this thread. I don't feel right just copying his pictures for our future use, should he object for whatever reason. (Although come to think of it, I just might check The Wayback Machine in a month or so...... if the page and photos are in there, then I'll move the link accordingly. ;D) |
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Post by lunaalta on Mar 13, 2007 15:45:49 GMT -5
You should have no problem linking to another's site, legally. I personally think it is what the www is all about. So long as there is no libel involved, which there isn't. Nice to see concern for the issue. Right man for the job....
Love that last picture!
I am not a lawyer and these are just my opinions. Just in case....
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Post by sumgai on Mar 13, 2007 17:15:44 GMT -5
luna, The courts have jumped both ways on this issue. For all intents and purposes, there is still no hard and fast rule of law that permits or denies deeplinking. But it's more of a courtesy thing, to my mind. If he asks, there's no reason for me not to remove it. Of course, he'd have to become aware of the link in the first place, right? sumgai |
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jepperoo
Rookie Solder Flinger
"A man loses power when he pities."
Posts: 5
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Post by jepperoo on Mar 13, 2007 17:56:50 GMT -5
I definently enjoyed viewing the pics of his refret job.
-There, -he shouldn't complain about that.
I'd like to have it done to my main axe,
but I think I would rather have a whole new neck instead.
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Post by sumgai on Mar 13, 2007 19:54:27 GMT -5
Sadly, a new neck, with the frets of your choice, will always cost less than a fret job. Dunno why that is, but it just is.
sumgai
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Post by dunkelfalke on Mar 14, 2007 2:32:41 GMT -5
that depends.
i know one who does a fret job for about 50-60 euros. you can surely get a new neck for that money (heck, you even can get a new guitar) but only a crappy one.
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Post by hammeroff on Mar 14, 2007 11:22:47 GMT -5
Two points:
1) What do you do when you have a compound radius neck?
2) Guys that do this stuff all the time make it look too easy!!
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Post by sumgai on Mar 14, 2007 13:40:57 GMT -5
hammeroff, 1) Work very carefully. 2) Yes, for them, it is easy. They do it day in and day out. The two top "neck" people in my area can do a complete fret job in about half an hour. The going rate? Starts at $250, and goes up from there, depending on what kind of fret material, and what shape the neck was in in the first place. I don't know about you, but that just screams to me of "printing money". Meaning, they are making a killing. The only players who are actually going this route are those with money to burn, and a burning fever to continue using the same neck. For vintage instruments, I can see that. But for everyday players, uh uh. dunk, in your neck of the woods, a good fret job might be had for €50-60, and that translates to something like a hundred bucks and change. I'm happy for you, but that price just doesn't obtain here in the States. We're on the other side of the scale, where good quality necks are made by the carload everyday (right here in my backyard), and they can be found, retail, for less than $150. (The price goes up for more exotic woods, and/or more fancy inlay work.) And that's with good fretting material and either a good finish, or at least a sealer so that you can finish it yourself. (Most companies won't do lacquer anymore, or if they do, they want to charge you a lot of money. By buying a sealed neck, you can do your own lacquer job.) Crappy necks are rarely available, they just don't sell - good ones are more than cheap enough. How about any other world regions out there, anybody got some input into this discussion about re-fret jobs versus a new neck? sumgai |
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Post by dunkelfalke on Mar 14, 2007 14:12:15 GMT -5
no way are 50 euros $100. more like $65 or so. maybe next year, though anyway, that price is only possible if you know the right guy, normally you would pay €150-250. btw crappy necks do sell very good here in germany, crappy guitars even better. a good quality neck can be bought for €150-€170. you can get one on ebay for half of the price, made by some small luthier, but it is risky. personally, i would rather visit some german guitar boards, there are always some people who enjoy making guitars and guitar parts, get to know the guys better and then ask them about a custom neck. the best thing is that there is a german shop which makes preslotted fretboards for cheap, even exotic wood fretboards. you just choose the radius, the scale and the width. |
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Post by sumgai on Mar 14, 2007 16:59:49 GMT -5
dunk, Now that would be über cool! Got any links? Such persons might be willing to ship to overseas locations, like the States for instance.  I can shave a piece of wood to look like a neck, but cutting the slots for the frets in the exact location is not something I wanna do, mainly for fear of getting it wrong. A pre-cut fingerboard only would be the answer to my dreams about custom building my own neck. And if it's priced right, so much the better! sumgai |
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Post by dunkelfalke on Mar 14, 2007 17:14:41 GMT -5
cannot link directly, because the website is created dynamically. go here: www.holz-faszination.de/home/node/7click on "tonewoods" then click on "NEU!! GRIFFBRETTER ALS HALBFERTIGWARE!" i don't know about the shipping to usa, but you'll get the fretboards without vat, that is 19% cheaper. for germany, their prices are great, anyway. here is the email address of the shop: carpenter@onlinehome.de |
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jepperoo
Rookie Solder Flinger
"A man loses power when he pities."
Posts: 5
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Post by jepperoo on Mar 14, 2007 21:19:16 GMT -5
yep...refreting is kinda expensive. I like my body, and sound, i just need a neck.
I think i'm just gonna get me a neck from Warmoth.
i'm looking at a warmoth "pro", rosewood on maple, 1-5/8 nut, 13-degree angled headstock, stainless medium-jumbo frets, 12" radius---all for about $200 or so.
...now i just have to work some overtime.
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Post by sumgai on Mar 14, 2007 21:30:08 GMT -5
dunk,
Ausgezeichnet!
A beautiful maple fingerboard would run me a whopping 38USD, plus shipping. Provided they ship......
I've already emailed them. Thanks loads for the tip! ;D
sumgai
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Post by dunkelfalke on Mar 15, 2007 1:17:05 GMT -5
why not try satinwood (zitronenholz)? looks like vintage tinted maple with a beautiful grain.
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Post by sumgai on Mar 15, 2007 20:11:43 GMT -5
dunk,
Nice looking, and only a few bucks more. However, I think that with medium-dark abalone inlays, there may be a conflict between the two patterns could disturb the eye. Mind you, I'm only guessing, based on the one sample, but my idea is to put more of the "fancy" detail work into the inlay (some diamonds, in a different order), and for that, I think a rather plain jane wood behind it would look best.
But thanks again for that link, those offerings are great!
sumgai
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bigaldo
Apprentice Shielder
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Post by bigaldo on Apr 1, 2007 23:53:01 GMT -5
I have done 14 complete refret jobs.Its not that hard!Take your TIME,don't force anything,and you should be fine.I made/modified all my refretting tools myself.Cheap end nippers were reground to flat head profile.Needle nose pliers had the nose cutoff on my bandsaw,with the wire cutting part remaining,took a dremel made mini-end nippers for pulling old frets.Reground slowly and dipped alot in water to keep steel cool during grinding.Made radius blocks out of flat backing block with 4 U cut standoff blocks,cut to right radius,by laying out diameter with tremel,gluded flexable masonite to pickup cruve of radius,attached self adhesive sandpaper to it.Use swiss needle files and hard stones for fret dressing and end profiling.What I am saying is you don't have to spend a ton of money on tools if you are willing to put for thought into the tools and the job before you.
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