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Post by ChrisK on Mar 16, 2007 19:17:39 GMT -5
Taking on the task of machine (routing or shaping) wood can be daunting, especially on a body or neck that is already finished. Up until two years ago I had access to several milling machines that were ideal for this (Bridgeport, $thousands), but the auxiliary machine shop was not kept when the company moved to a modern "cube park". As a result, I've been building up means for continuing to be able to do this. Much of the following came from The Home Depot or www.use-enco.com (800-use-enco). The accuracy and repeatability required falls between carpentry and metal working. It's called cabinetry and accuracies in the neighborhood of few hundredths of an inch are adequate. I started with a drill press such as this one with a rotating table, I used a heavy duty bench mounted unit with a chuck centerline to post spacing of 7 1/2" (a 15" press). This unit cost about $200. (Note that the table can rotate around the centerline of the chuck, more later on why): I added to it an XY table that has a longitudinal travel of 8" and a cross travel of 5". This unit weighs 36 pounds and cost $70. With it I will use a vise such as these, which cost about $20 to $40: To clamp things together (and big wood things to the table), I bought a T-nut clamping bolt set. This cost $32. If you have/get a press without a rotating table, you can use swivel vises such as these (but the rotating press table is much better for large wood objects): About $60 About $500 Why do I care that the table can rotate around the centerline of the chuck? Because with this feature I can machine OUTSIDE CURVES such as Tele control plates, body radii (curves), and large diameter circles. You will also need (well, it's really nice to have) a complete 115 piece jobber drill index like this: $30 to $200, I paid $56 for a TiN coated set. End mills (bits, which cost about $5 to $10 each) will be of use. I use 1/8", 1/4"/ 3/8", and a set of 10 Forstner bits (which cut really nice clean holes up to 1" in diameter) which cost about $12 at Lowes.
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badams
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Post by badams on Jun 7, 2007 2:27:54 GMT -5
Thats all fine and dandy Chris and it would be nice to own the tools you listed. None of them are mandatory for building a guitar though. I didnt read your entire post so my apologies if I missed some points that left me ignorant. A short way into it I came to the conclusion that it was hog wash.
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Post by dd842 on Jun 7, 2007 9:41:34 GMT -5
Thats all fine and dandy Chris and it would be nice to own the tools you listed. None of them are mandatory for building a guitar though. I didnt read your entire post so my apologies if I missed some points that left me ignorant. A short way into it I came to the conclusion that it was hog wash. Hi badams, I see that you have become quite active in posting. Awesome! We look forward to hearing more from you, as I see from your other posts that you have experience with, among other things, building guitars. I can't speak for everyone here, but what I would like to see is specifics. What parts of Chris' commentary do you disagree with? What are the alternatives? I realize it's a lot of work, but - if what you say is accurate - post it, as I believe that it would be beneficial to the forum. After all, in this forum we encourage the exchange of good information and the expression of opinions, in a respectful manner. Don't be a stranger! Dan
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Post by ChrisK on Jun 7, 2007 12:47:29 GMT -5
It is even tho they're cheap when compared to "proper tooling" CNC solutions.
You are correct sir.
Ok.
That's fine with me.
My intent was to show some tools that can be used for guitar fabrication and modification. Not all of them, and not all are required in any case. Most of these are the cheapest instances that I've found. I wanted to share this.
This post had been read 170 times as I write this. so far, only one person has been moved to indicate publicly to me that they found it to be hog wash. (I've received no PMs either to said indication.)
I can live with that.
If you don't like something, don't look at it.
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Post by sumgai on Jun 7, 2007 15:11:35 GMT -5
If you don't like something, don't look at it. Ah, the old bug-a-boo..... how will I know I don't like it, if I don't look at it first? In essence, would it not be more proper to say, "If you don't like something, don't look at it again"? badams, I for one appreciate the fact that you offered up an opinion that seems contrary, it's the stuff from which we all grow stronger and more knowlegeable. Not only has this thread been read more than 170 times, but it has laid "un-responded-to" since Mar 16th. Anytime you can draw Chris out and make him explain himself further, you're doin' OK in my book. Just don't get carried away, and remember to respect those who've been a day or two longer than yourself, and all will be well. sumgai
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Post by crazymanandy on Jun 7, 2007 22:02:40 GMT -5
Hey ChrisK,
What drill press did you get? I'm currently in the market for one and I'm trying to find one that is solid but doesn't break the bank.
Thanks, CMA
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navarch
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Post by navarch on Jul 6, 2007 16:29:33 GMT -5
First of all, there's the drool factor..... My tendency is to want to buy a new tool (whatever the project, whatever the reason), so to keep my bank account happy, I keep to my rule that every new tool has to be purchased for a specific project. My drill press' first job was truing the wheels on my son's pinewood derby car, 'cause ya gotta have true wheels on those suckers.
I like the idea of using an X-Y table with end mills. That would go a long way toward milling out cavities for electronics in solid bodies. Since a drill press isn't really made for horizontal stresses, am I correct in believing that for most woods, the secret here is to make successive shallow passes and keep the traverse speed down, the shaft speed relatively high? Any particular problems show up so far?
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