|
|
Post by ranchtooth on May 19, 2007 14:42:24 GMT -5
I'm replacing a one piece "intonated" bridge from a Univox LP Junior copy with a nice new adjustable bridge, but the new one's saddles sit almost a quarter inch higher than the olds. The only conclusion I can come to is that I need to shim the neck to avoid ungodly high action.
Would I be better off putting a straight square block of hardwood into the neck pocket and raising the entire neck and keeping its straight profile, or putting in a tapered block of wood to cause the neck to tilt back away from the body, sorta like a real les paul?
Any feedback would be nice as I've never shimmed before!
|
|
|
|
Post by bam on May 20, 2007 8:27:21 GMT -5
hmm.. quite the hard choice. my suggestion is .. try to play a real LP again first (like, borrow one for a day or so) and -- pick up your choice  |
|
darguitar
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by darguitar on May 20, 2007 18:06:59 GMT -5
In my opinion, I would go for the tapered shim, as the other option will be visible when you look at the back of the neck, and Les Paul's usually have more of a pitch at the neck/body join than a strat styled guitar. It doesn't take much of a shim to make a lot of difference!! If you're going to go to the trouble of making a tapered shim, I would suggest the following first to 'try it out'. Take an old credit card or something similair, and at one end, cut a 4mm wide strip off of it. (The credit card width is almost always a near perfect fit for the neck cavity). Place the 'shim' in the cavity as close to the body as possible, and replace the neck. Once you've tuned up, if the action is still too high, add another strip of credit card the same width, on top of the first piece and re-assemble. It'll be playable in no time. If you're then happy with the end result, you can get cracking with making a tapered shim!!
Hope this helps a bit!!
|
|
|
|
Post by crazymanandy on May 20, 2007 21:22:35 GMT -5
I don't see why you would need any neck angle, especially since there is none to begin with. I would simply put in a block of hardwood cut out to the shape of the neck cavity and try it out. If it works, you might as well glue it in.
In any case, whether or not to taper is mostly a cosmetic decision. On a Junior, you don't have to worry about it looking weird as you would on an LP.
CMA
|
|
|
|
Post by ranchtooth on May 20, 2007 21:32:35 GMT -5
go for the tapered shim, as the other option will be visible when you look at the back of the neck This is a valid point. I'm going to try out the credit card idea and hopefully have something set in stone (or wood) shortly thereafter! |
|
|
|
Post by dd842 on May 22, 2007 10:03:59 GMT -5
go for the tapered shim, as the other option will be visible when you look at the back of the neck This is a valid point. I'm going to try out the credit card idea and hopefully have something set in stone (or wood) shortly thereafter! ranchtooth, When I need to shim a bolt on neck, I use children's construction paper and just pile as many pieces of it together as is needed for the correct adjustment (if you choose this method, don't fold it, pile it). It works just fine for me - I can easily dial in exactly what I need and, if I want, I can even taper it by adjusting the length of each of the pieces of paper. Once it's in behind there, noone sees it and nothing is going to happen to it since it gets pressed together so hard that it's ability to shim becomes similar to that of wood (unless you go swimming with it, I suppose  ). Dan |
|
badams
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
|
Post by badams on Jun 7, 2007 2:41:20 GMT -5
Get a bridge that is the correct height now and save yourself the heartache of failure. Thats where you're heading .. You may be able to get by with shimming the neck but the end results will be a cluster f--k
|
|
|
|
Post by dd842 on Jun 7, 2007 8:07:00 GMT -5
Get a bridge that is the correct height now and save yourself the heartache of failure. Thats where you're heading .. You may be able to get by with shimming the neck but the end results will be a cluster f--k Hi badams, Good advice, but sometimes things are off enough or there is a specific issue that leaves no alternative but to adjust the neck. Dan P.S. cluster f--k ... that's funny |
|
jamie
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
|
Post by jamie on Jun 17, 2007 20:27:33 GMT -5
I have the oppisite problem. I fitted a neck to an ibanez body and the heel of the new neck is too thick making the fretboard too high. The neck's heel needs to be planed so it will be 5mm thinner. The necks truss rod is set perfectly(slight bow). I might try to shim the oppisite end of the neck seat for now before i go and plane anything. I came here to find out what sort of material to use. I will try the credit card and if it works will leave it in there permanently.
|
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jun 17, 2007 21:34:16 GMT -5
It's a military term for an abnormal SNAFU.
If you raise the neck evenly, you may well need longer neck mounting screws. In this case there is a one-to-one correspondence in "elevator rides" at the neck and a'bridge.
If you shim the neck, the incline rules. If the length of the neck pocket affected is about 2.5", and the distance from the heel to bridge is about 6.5", any shimming will have a 3.5:1 multiplier in its effect.
The point is that a parallel elevation is only that while an angle extrapolates over the entire projection distance for free.
Shim and keep the heel in the pocket as much as possible.
One can also go to the hardware store, buy a press-fit 10-32 captive wood nut (in the U.S.), buy a 10-32 setscrew, stick an electrical box conduit push-out in a recess in the neck heel bottom (not end) and have a (gasp!) micro-tilt adjustable neck a'la Fender (or Peavey who I think did it first or at least best).
BTW, is this new bridge adjustable in height?
|
|
). 
