|
Post by kuzi16 on Sept 25, 2007 13:48:55 GMT -5
in the next few weeks i will begin to buy parts for my first build. I am doing it all from scratch save the neck and the pickups (i dont have a winding machine and to be quite honest i dont know enough about pickups to make some that sound good on my own.)
Since i dont have the tools to build a neck ill have to buy one, hopefully without a finished headstock.
there are tons of necks out there and at several different scales. What are some things i should consider before choosing a scale? how will the scale effect the balance of the guitar? does that matter that much?
|
|
|
Post by jkemmery on Sept 25, 2007 16:54:15 GMT -5
First of all, you should probably consider the basic style of guitar you are building, ie, Strat, Tele, Les Paul, etc ... and whether or not you want to keep the sacle length for your guitar consistent with the style you are building. Another thing to consider is what type of guitar you are used to playing and what it's scale lenth is because that will probably be more comfortable for you. Another consideration would be the neck supplier you plan to use and what scale lengths they have available. For example, Warmoth carries quite a few 24.75" scale necks whereas AllParts does not.
On the whole, the 25.5" would be, in my opinion, a wise choice since there are several suppliers of routing templates for guitars of this scale, assuming you are going with a bolt-on neck, which, again in my opinion, would be wise for a first build, depending on your woodworking skills. Ultimately though, so long as you take in to consideration the scale length when measuring the neck pocket to bridge placement for the body you are building, it probably doesn't matter too much, and is really a choice of personal preference.
Also, when you say you are doing it "from scratch save the neck and pickups" I assume you mean you are going to shape and route your own body, and that you will also be buying as opposed to building "from scratch" the bridge, switch(es) potentiometer(s) and tuning machines. You may consider sourcing all of your parts including the neck and possibly the body blank from one dealer, such as AllParts, WD, Stewart MacDonald etc ... to save on shipping.
I hope all of this helps and good luck with your build.
|
|
|
Post by ranchtooth on Sept 26, 2007 10:40:42 GMT -5
More from a playability perspective, longer scales require more string tension at the same tuning. This gives sharper, crisper tone but the strings feel harder 'neath your fingers. A shorter scale will have a warmer tone and less string tension. Its all up to your personal preferences and playing style, really.
|
|
|
Post by kuzi16 on Sept 28, 2007 11:37:33 GMT -5
thanks for the info. I probably will go with the 25.5 scale.
and yes i will be shaping the body and all that but i have no intention of making my own switches or forging my own hardware.
im using an exotic wood (african padauk (sp?)) so most of the sites you listed will not be good for that. i do appreciate the sugestions though. i plan on buying the pickups and most of the hardware all at the same time. Im trying to use ony 3 or 4 sites to get everything and ordering all the parts from whatever site all at the same time.
Usually with purchases over "X" amount you can get discounted/free shipping.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Sept 28, 2007 12:36:11 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by kuzi16 on Sept 29, 2007 2:20:15 GMT -5
none of my choices are set in stone yet. i may change wood all together. the only thing that is for sure is the shape. there is some insperation from the tele', the Gibson ES 135, and a bit of Gibson LP. ... it works in my head. anyone ever work with these necks: www.stewmac.com/shop/Bodies,_necks,_wood/Electric_guitar:_Necks/22-Fret_Blank-peghead_Guitar_Necks.html Mobile Gladiator Note:model {left square bracket}url=http://www.the_churlish_link.html ]the visible name[/url {right square bracket}/model {left square bracket}url=http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bodies,_necks,_wood/Electric_guitar:_Necks/22-Fret_Blank-peghead_Guitar_Necks.html ]If'n ya do it this way, you gets a named link, so we'll call it "anyone ever work with these necks"[/url {right square bracket}Result If'n ya do it this way, you gets a named link, so we'll call it "anyone ever work with these necks"sorry the commas messed with the link... just cut and paste all that.... you know the drill im sure. You're welcome. /note thoughts?
|
|
|
Post by Runewalker on Sept 29, 2007 8:24:51 GMT -5
sort of an odd fret size on those Stewmacs. Not wide enough for the Gibson type (what used to be called Jumbo in the 60s-70s, but with todays super jumbo swamping the Gibson standard, the old Gibson wire is now almost medium), taller than Gibson wire, but shorter than vintage Fender. This url shows standard Dunlop type wire sizes: www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks.cfm?fuseaction=fretsizeand the fret wire choice is a key feature of the feel of the instrument. Those headstocks lock you into a 6 in-line style, and lock you out of 3X3, 2X4, reverse in-line or other less common options. The amount of available wood to shape may also limit your options to Strat style or Ibanez type headstocks. So if you wanted an old Kramer hockey stick headstock (for example), there is not enough additional wood to work with. Otherwise .... it is about your preferences. Rosewood, ebony and finished maple all have different feels, and many extoll or decry the tonal differences between them. I am not sure personally that the differences are that significant and if they are they can be offset with pup choice, wiring arrays and amplification/sound modulator options. To me the feel is more critical than the wood type on the fretboard, or the woodstock of the neck. so you have some decisions ahead on fret size and wood type preferences. Since it is your custom, might as well get everything you want. Since you are a skilled wood worker, have you considered a neck through design, where you envelope the neck super structure with the body wood of your choice?
|
|
|
Post by kuzi16 on Sept 29, 2007 13:38:14 GMT -5
Since you are a skilled wood worker, have you considered a neck through design, where you envelope the neck super structure with the body wood of your choice? i have actually thought of neck through. with the design in my head right now i dont think it would be a good option. there is a lot of detail routing and i would hate to screw up the body and have to buy a new neck as well. I have wood working skills but this is the first time id be doing serious routing. (other than squares, rectangles, or edges.) If i was more sure of my routing skills then neck through would be great. I am also trying to keep cost down. I do know that you get what you pay for but i dont know if im at the point where paying for a $200 or above neck would be in my best intrests at this point. It is only my first build and i want to see if im going to like it before i start putting SERIOUS cash into things. As for the neck i linked to before... Is there a guitar that i can go look at that has about that or that exact fret size? Im ok with 6 in line. i can design around that with little or no issue.
|
|
|
Post by jkemmery on Sept 29, 2007 18:44:47 GMT -5
Just thought I would throw this out. All AllParts necks that have 22 frets have jumbo frets. I find the "standard" SMO, SRO & SEO to be extremely comfortable, great playing necks, at least as good quality as the Warmoth necks, although they do not come in compound radius. The necks mentioned above have a12" fingerboard radius. They list at 160, but can be cheaper through other sources, such as Allparts dealers. You may be able to find them on eBay, or if you (or anyone on this board) would be interested in AllParts necks or other products, send me an email and I may be able to help you out.
|
|