pedal tuner mod

[biggles]

Not only am i new to the forum i'm new to fiddling with pedals, i know how to wire any combination of guitar wiring so i'm not clueless with it.

I've got an Artec big dots pedal tuner and it only bypasses when you turn it on, and i want the signal to stay going through when i press it, so i can just leave it on, i thrash around stage a bit and i can't be bothered to go and press it to be honest

i'm sure it's very simple to you guys but i just wondered if someone could provide me with some help?

[ashcatlt]

Without a schematic it's tough to say.

The easy way would be to put a buffered split before the tuner. Got a name brand stereo chorus, flange, etc pedal your not using? Put a battery in it, turn it off. Run one of it's outputs to your tuner and the other to the rest of your rig.

Done.

[biggles]

ah that's a good idea.

i would've thought most tuner pedals have the same basic wiring inside but i must be wrong.

[sumgai]

biggles,

Hi, and welcome to the NutzHouse! ;D

So let me get this straight.... you want the pedal to be on all the time, giving you a steady reading of what state your strings are in (flat, right on, or sharp), yet you also want the signal to be going to your amp at the same time, so's you don't have to punch the foot switch, is that about right?

Hmmmm...... you are aware, of course, that any pedal, even a simple tuner, will color the sound in it's way from your guitar to your amp. In most cases, that's what you want - after all, you put the pedal in the signal path for that very purpose. But with a tuner, you don't need/want that coloration, which is why the manufacturer put in the bypass.

For that reason, I'd have to say that ash's answer is by far the better one. A simple splitter arrangement means that you can have a clean signal path from guitar to amp, and yet the tuner can be on all the time. The tuner's Output will be empty, of course, but that won't bother the tuner one whit.

Buffering is preferred, so the tuner doesn't "load" the input to the amp, and possibly kill off some of the tone and/or volume of the main signal. But if you have active electronics on-board your axe, then you might try simply splicing two cables together, and see what happens - who knows, that might be good enough.

HTH



sumgai