|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 2, 2008 15:55:35 GMT -5
I have two pedals with DPDT switches, and both give me problems. One is an older G2D Overdrive (it has two switches, both have problems) the other is a Vox wah modded for true-bypass. G2D told me they don't use DPDT switches anymore because they weren't reliable enough. Both these pedals are fine 9/10 times, but 1 in ten stomps they just don't bypass properly, and need to go on and off again to get the signal back.
So I thought I might get some 3pdt switches and replace them all. The problem (apart from finding some 3pdt switches) is that the 3pdt's have 9 terminals, where as the DPDT's have 8. I have no idea how these relate to each other.
Can I just transfer the wiring to the new switches and leave the middle terminal empty? Or are the 3pdt switches completely different?
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 2, 2008 17:06:23 GMT -5
Self-correction, the DPDT has 6 terminals. So obviously it's different. After doing some research, I sort of get how they work, but I still don't know how to transfer one to the other.
|
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jun 2, 2008 20:39:44 GMT -5
Electronics Templates.It should be the same as a 3PDT two-way toggle on the bottom. Remember that 90 degree rotation issue of months past that I helped you with. Use your digital multi-meter to verify which terminals are shorted for proper orientation. Match this to the existing switch. (Sorry, there is no other way without knowing the exact switch manufacturer's part number (and not the sales part number)). These are alternate action switches. You just have to get the pole orientation straight. Since you only need two poles per switch, send the extra poles to me. I don't want to hear about it if you don't have a digital multi-meter.
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 2, 2008 20:54:52 GMT -5
Haha, I do have a multi metre but I really don't know how to use it. I don't understand the termenologies on the settings, so I don't know how it goes. Does the thing you're testing need power? Or does the mutimeter send some power for checking the circuit?
|
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Jun 2, 2008 22:26:33 GMT -5
Depends what you're trying to test.
For this application it's easiest to just set the thing to measure resistance (usually signified by the Ω symol). Put one of the probes on one terminal and the other on another. If it reads 0Ω, you've got a connection. It should give you an extremely high reading or some form of Out of Range message if there isn't a connection. When testing resistance, the meter sends a DC voltage through the circuit.
If you wanted to test voltage or current, you'd probably want the thing plugged in and powered up.
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 2, 2008 22:32:53 GMT -5
Cool, thanks. I don't actually have the switch, so I've nothing to test yet. Wanted to know if it was going to work before forking out for the switches.
|
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Jun 3, 2008 12:50:01 GMT -5
sooty, ash is correct about the testing part, with one addtion, if you will........ When checking the resistance of anything, DO NOT EVER APPLY POWER to the circuit or part you are testing!!!!! The meter's internal battery will supply all the necessary power (usually from a 1.5v AA battery ( nee cell)). Any external power will interfere with the measurement circuitry, and will almost certainly cause harm if it's more than a few millivolts. (1 millivolt = 1/1000 volt) Are you contemplating this new switch because someone once said that you could make a battery last 5 minutes longer if you use an extra switch pole to control the power to the circuit? Seems to me you'd be better of using a high(er) quality 2 pole switch, and changing over to rechargable batteries.  HTH sumgai |
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Jun 3, 2008 12:52:15 GMT -5
Chris,
Why are you collecting extra Poles? Aren't they doing just fine in their own country?
;D
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 3, 2008 16:49:43 GMT -5
Are you contemplating this new switch because someone once said that you could make a battery last 5 minutes longer if you use an extra switch pole to control the power to the circuit? I think you over-estimate me. No, I just heard they were more reliable, i.e, work every time, which the DPDT's don't seem to. |
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 3, 2008 17:17:05 GMT -5
So I've been trying to figure out how these work, and since the 3pdt switch is basically the same idea with an extra row, as long as I orientate the switch correctly I can just copy the wirning across leaving one row out, right?
Edit: You got me thinking though Sumgai, and I think I can see how I can use a 3pdt switch to disconnect the battery on the Wah while Bypassed. That's great actually, because my Wah hums when I run it off my adaptor, and a battery would last a heck of a long time if it was only connected when I used the Wah!
This whole thing has really got me figuring out how the switches work, which is a good learning experience. Now I just gotta get some switches!
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 3, 2008 18:48:20 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Jun 3, 2008 20:57:34 GMT -5
sooty, It's the cream wire. Just so's ya know....... I'm not a fan of switching on and off a circuit's power just as it's getting signal applied to the input. However, if you're doing it to alleviate other problems, like hum, that's a good enough reason to do it.  If the unit clicks or pops as you turn it on/off, let us know, there are ways of dealing with that. And yes, you can "translate" the wires from one switch to another like you envision, so long as the switch is physically oriented correctly (per Chris's reminder above). HTH sumgai |
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jun 3, 2008 21:56:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 3, 2008 21:57:49 GMT -5
I'm not a fan of switching on and off a circuit's power just as it's getting signal applied to the input. However, if you're doing it to alleviate other problems, like hum, that's a good enough reason to do it. Hoe come? Just cos it's likely to pop? Or is it otherwise bad for it? The cure for the hum is using a battery rather than the adaptor. I just thought if I did this I would hardly ever need to change batteries. But if it's bad for the circuit or something, then maybe I won't. |
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Jun 4, 2008 12:42:50 GMT -5
Right the first time, it's all about the potential for popping or clicking sounds. Electrically, the circuit won't care at all. However, the battery life won't be appreciably shortened, either. The deal is, if the circuit isn't actually doing anything at the moment, the current drawn from the battery is usually so low it's not worth talking about. In turn, the battery's life isn't significantly affected........ unless the circuit is horribly mal-designed, or there's been an assembly screw-up.  HTH sumgai |
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on Jun 4, 2008 16:28:50 GMT -5
Right, well in that case I won't bother with that particular mod, just keep the Wah first in the chain so that it's unplugged when I'm not playing.
So if I do the switches, it'll just be a straight swap. Do you think it will help the switching issues? Have you guys heard of 3pdt switches being more reliable than dpdt's?
|
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jun 4, 2008 19:54:35 GMT -5
I'm sure that it has more to do with the brand or design of the switch rather than the topography.
|
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Jun 5, 2008 17:02:23 GMT -5
Which would be an indicator of overall quality of the product, as derived from the quality of the manufacturing process itself, and the components used in the product. IOW, if the quality ain't there in the first place, then........ OR IOOW (other other words), there's a pretty good reason why the price of the oats is higher before they get processed by the horse!   sumgai |
|
If the unit clicks or pops as you turn it on/off, let us know, there are ways of dealing with that.
