Post by ChrisK on Aug 9, 2008 15:30:06 GMT -5
I think that in this case, you're all missing the point (or bit).
I messed around with making matching boxes some years back, but quickly quit when my taste in cigars went thru the roof (them boxes was much neater).
But, I learned something great from the box makers:
Build the box and then cut it in half for the top and bottom.
Nah, this would be impractical.
But what I WOULD do is to use wood trim strips that were the wall height that I wanted and just fasten them to the top and bottom.
Wait, you said that long straight lines were challenging. Well, they are and it's hard to get the top and bottom square.
Hmmm, let's think inside-out. It's a lot easier to DRAW straight lines, at 90 degree corners than it is to cut them.
Soooo, have the top and bottom pieces cut to rough (over)size (this is carpentry - 1/4" on each size max) by the wood vendor, and buy wood trim strips (it seems that the walls need to be 3", so 1 1/2" or 2" and 1" might add up in 1" thick wall members.
Now, layout in pencil the outline of the walls on the bottom. Ensure with a square square (you'd be surprised how many get "coerced" there-out) that your layout box is square, and centered within the rough cut.
Ensure that the bottom (or deepest) wall is flat. One can bend the slightly non-flat boards into kilter, but don't get too aggressive. A clever sort sorts ones boards while still in the lumber yard.
Cut the 90 degree corner bevels in a miter box.
Pre drill the screw holes thru the bottom walls. Use only the thread diameter bit, and not the screw shank clearance diameter bit.
Find metal rods that are a close fit to these holes. they should be as long as the case is overall thick. You could use long small diameter machine screws, or coat hanger wire. You'll need one per hole. I have bought jobber drill bit packs that include a number of the same size bit (such as 1/8") and used them since I break the bits that I use most anyway.
While doing this, also drill these same holes thru the top wall members, drilling them thru AS A MATCHED PAIR, ensuring that they line up a a continuous surface.
Drill them about every 4" inches. As you drill on thru hole thru both walls, insert a registration rod until you are finished with the set. While you're at it, mark the matched sets.
Once placed on the bottom, these will be drilled thru the bottom with the thread diameter bit, and enlarged in the bottom to the screw shank clearance diameter. Countersink for the flat head screws on the bottom.
Screw all four bottom walls to the bottom, from the bottom side, skipping every other hole.
Assemble the bottom assembly (with its four walls half-attached) with the metal registration rods to the matching (you did mark them I hope) top walls.
Place the assembly onto the underside of the top, pushing the registration rods partially out (so one can grab them with fingers or pliers).
Center the assembly, remove the four holes closest to the corners first one by one as you drill these holes thru the top. After you drill each hole, place the rod back in for registration.
This alternate set of holes aligning the top walls to the top surface should then be used to attach the top to the top walls (after countersinking of course).
Nor that the walls are half-attached to their respective surfaces, finish drilling the holes thru the top, and insert the remaining missing screws into all walls.
You now have a top and bottom section, so drill for and attach the hinges and clasps at this point. These can be later removed depending on the finishing desired.
Now, this thing looks like crap with those overhangs.
So, use a ball bearing router bit to contour the edges to the side walls. Things should match exactly (cabinetry). While you're at it, just use a ball bearing rounding bit and radius the edges. Get some corner protectors (like on real cases) and have at it.
I messed around with making matching boxes some years back, but quickly quit when my taste in cigars went thru the roof (them boxes was much neater).
But, I learned something great from the box makers:
Build the box and then cut it in half for the top and bottom.
Nah, this would be impractical.
But what I WOULD do is to use wood trim strips that were the wall height that I wanted and just fasten them to the top and bottom.
Wait, you said that long straight lines were challenging. Well, they are and it's hard to get the top and bottom square.
Hmmm, let's think inside-out. It's a lot easier to DRAW straight lines, at 90 degree corners than it is to cut them.
Soooo, have the top and bottom pieces cut to rough (over)size (this is carpentry - 1/4" on each size max) by the wood vendor, and buy wood trim strips (it seems that the walls need to be 3", so 1 1/2" or 2" and 1" might add up in 1" thick wall members.
Now, layout in pencil the outline of the walls on the bottom. Ensure with a square square (you'd be surprised how many get "coerced" there-out) that your layout box is square, and centered within the rough cut.
Ensure that the bottom (or deepest) wall is flat. One can bend the slightly non-flat boards into kilter, but don't get too aggressive. A clever sort sorts ones boards while still in the lumber yard.
Cut the 90 degree corner bevels in a miter box.
Pre drill the screw holes thru the bottom walls. Use only the thread diameter bit, and not the screw shank clearance diameter bit.
Find metal rods that are a close fit to these holes. they should be as long as the case is overall thick. You could use long small diameter machine screws, or coat hanger wire. You'll need one per hole. I have bought jobber drill bit packs that include a number of the same size bit (such as 1/8") and used them since I break the bits that I use most anyway.
While doing this, also drill these same holes thru the top wall members, drilling them thru AS A MATCHED PAIR, ensuring that they line up a a continuous surface.
Drill them about every 4" inches. As you drill on thru hole thru both walls, insert a registration rod until you are finished with the set. While you're at it, mark the matched sets.
Once placed on the bottom, these will be drilled thru the bottom with the thread diameter bit, and enlarged in the bottom to the screw shank clearance diameter. Countersink for the flat head screws on the bottom.
Screw all four bottom walls to the bottom, from the bottom side, skipping every other hole.
Assemble the bottom assembly (with its four walls half-attached) with the metal registration rods to the matching (you did mark them I hope) top walls.
Place the assembly onto the underside of the top, pushing the registration rods partially out (so one can grab them with fingers or pliers).
Center the assembly, remove the four holes closest to the corners first one by one as you drill these holes thru the top. After you drill each hole, place the rod back in for registration.
This alternate set of holes aligning the top walls to the top surface should then be used to attach the top to the top walls (after countersinking of course).
Nor that the walls are half-attached to their respective surfaces, finish drilling the holes thru the top, and insert the remaining missing screws into all walls.
You now have a top and bottom section, so drill for and attach the hinges and clasps at this point. These can be later removed depending on the finishing desired.
Now, this thing looks like crap with those overhangs.
So, use a ball bearing router bit to contour the edges to the side walls. Things should match exactly (cabinetry). While you're at it, just use a ball bearing rounding bit and radius the edges. Get some corner protectors (like on real cases) and have at it.