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Post by newey on Aug 2, 2009 23:03:43 GMT -5
OK, the P-Bass with the strat single rail pickup is nearing completion. So I thought I'd post a few shots. Here is what I started with:  Obviously, the pink had to go. I refinished it in a gray metallic. Usually, I use Krylon rattlecans, but the color I wanted was available from Rust-Oleum, so I used that. Not real happy with it, it was harder to work with. The finish is far from perfect, but the photos don't really do it justice- have to get some outdoors, without the flash. My Dremel bit the dust a while back, so I'm without a router. But, hey, it's cheap and the guard will cover the hacked out hole, so I just went for it. Here's a photo of the Strat pup installed, under the hood so to speak.  And here's the almost-final project, which is awaiting strings for final set-up and testing, and the knobs to match the black hardware are on the way as well.  So the look is classic Pbass, but with the extra pup under the hood. Switching is binary tree, as detailed in the other thread in E&W on this. |
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Post by D2o on Aug 2, 2009 23:20:51 GMT -5
I kinda liked the pink ... NOT!  Nice job, newey!  D2o |
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Post by newey on Aug 5, 2009 20:36:42 GMT -5
Still waiting on the knobs, but the strings came in. I ordered up a set of Fender flatwounds, .045-.095. Tested the electronics and all the switching seems to work appropriately. Set-up, however, is another story. The replacement bridge seems to sit a bit lower than the stock one, and the neck is probably sitting a tad higher than before since there's about a dozen coats of paint in the neck pocket. As a result, I'm fretting out even with the bridge set way high. Damn, I should have masked off the floor of the neck pocket.   It looks like more than can be expected from a truss rod adjustment, so I'm going to have to dismount the neck and sand out the pocket a bit. If that doesn't do it, I may need to shim under the bridge. Some of that there Lutherie stuff is in order . . . Here's another pic, unfortunately not a whole lot better than the first one:  |
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 8, 2009 13:56:15 GMT -5
Damn, I should have masked off the floor of the neck pocket. Experience is a wonderful teacher... I know I'm beating a dead horse here...but when working on a neck pocket you really need to use a router. I've written the process out somewhere here, but the location eludes me at the moment...CRS... Basically, you take two hardwood oak boards and clamp them down to the body to act as guides for the top bearing router bit. PM me for details... Sanding the neck pocket is not going to give you the results you want. A metal supply house that deal in brass might be able to help. Call them and ask for samples...oddly enough, they will be the dimensions of the bridge plate...in several thicknesses. Most places will toss you some scrap if you tell them you're an OEM and need test samples. Since you already know someone at a machine shop you can have the final machining done to suit. BTW, nice looking bass. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 9, 2009 16:23:41 GMT -5
Keep in mind that McMaster-Carr is in Aurora. 200 Aurora Industrial Pkwy. Aurora, OH 44202-8087 (330) 995-5500 They have tons of stuff, including metal stock. They are expensive, but they generally have everything in their catalog in stock. From your location, it's a simple small trip in lieu of shipping. |
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Post by newey on Aug 9, 2009 20:28:00 GMT -5
The more I look at this, the more I think a shim under the bridge is in order.
After all, the neck was fine with the stock bridge. And, setting the stock one next to the new one discloses a height difference, such that the extreme of adjustment upwards on the new one is in the middle of the adjustment range on the old bridge.
I'm thinking a piece of aluminum sheet, cut to the size of the baseplate of the new bridge and painted black to match, with the 4 screws going through it, would work just fine. I'm figuring about 3/16ths, but that's a thumb-in-the-wind measurement. I'll have to get more precise . . .
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 9, 2009 20:50:30 GMT -5
Different materials will have different tonal effects.
The aluminum sold at the big box stores is generally fairly soft.
Three 1/16" pieces will have less coupling than one 3/16" piece.
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Post by sumgai on Aug 9, 2009 22:39:05 GMT -5
newey, More to the point, ain't no metal in the world that can make up for the lack of coupling 'twixt your neck and pocket, thanks to all that 'extra' paint. C1 has the correct plan, of course. You know it's correct, because it ain't the easy way.  Although this is a bass, after all............. sumgai |
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Post by newey on Aug 9, 2009 22:51:02 GMT -5
True. Problem is, I have neither the router nor the bit to do this.
Although I may be able to borrow one. I may have to call in a few favors.
Or wait until payday and grab a router, which I really should have anyway. The Beancaster travel guitar project, which has been on hold for about a year now, needs routing work, too.
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Post by ux4484 on Aug 10, 2009 9:39:13 GMT -5
Newey,
Don't know about by you, but the Home Depot's and Menards here often have classes for using power tools they sell. They often encourage attendees to bring a simple project. You could save a few bucks and get your pocket fixed the right way in one blow.
One HOBO on the north side of "The City" does simple routing and cutting services for a minimal charge as well (free if it's with materials you've purchased from them).
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Post by newey on Aug 10, 2009 16:38:30 GMT -5
That's a good idea, ux!
One way or another, I'll get it done soon as I'm anxious to start playing this.
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Post by newey on Aug 22, 2009 15:33:42 GMT -5
OK, I got the neck pocket routed out and the neck reinstalled. Just took off a wee smidgen in there, not much more than the paint. And all is well! Played it quite a bit this morning, and it's sounding good. I still have to run it through my tech for intonation and basic setup, but it's definitely playable as is. The Strat SC is definitely overpowered by the P-bass pup, being down under the guard, but the "both on parallel" adds quite a bit to the Pbass pup alone, and the series setting gets into a bit of distortion territory. Much experimentation to be done, but so far, I'm liking it. The new beefier bridge adds quite a bit more sustain than the stock one. Finish photos await camera batteries, and sound clips await the will to lug everything up to the computer room. |
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 22, 2009 15:51:41 GMT -5
Glad all is well in neweybassland. I would like to hear some clips of the two pickups...apart and together. Should be interesting.
+1 for project. Nice to see someone drop the odd two extra strings now and again...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by newey on Aug 23, 2009 14:22:56 GMT -5
Got some finished photos, decided that I need a better camera! Here's the best I can get, I can't seem to avoid the glare off the pickguard even without the flash.   |
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 29, 2009 10:02:49 GMT -5
Very nice... And how's the little Traynor working out for you?
One day I'll get my projects done...
Again, nice build.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by newey on Aug 29, 2009 11:18:03 GMT -5
Works great, it just doesn't seem like it's a real 40 watts, more like 15 or so. It's fine volume-wise for the basement. I'm looking around for a bass boost pedal for the rig as well.
No way is it going to keep out in front of a drummer, though!
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Post by ashcatlt on Aug 29, 2009 13:33:52 GMT -5
40 watts isn't likely to be a whole lot louder than 15 watts with a given speaker. A more efficient speaker may get you more SPL out of it. May not sound as good, and likely still won't hold up against a Bonham. There's a reason all my drummers have volume controls. Now, when you say "bass boost", you mean a boost designed for bass, yes? Not a low frequency enhancer? These (actually both) are extremely simple circuits if you're interested in DIY...wait, I know you're interested in DIY! Of course, if you're already getting everything you can from the amp, a boost pedal isn't going to get you any more without costing you something. That is, you can likely get more RMS or percieved volume out of the thing, at the expense of distortion. That may or may not be a bad thing, depending on the amp (does it sound good when it overdrives?) and your desired style. So, where's the samples? |
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Post by newey on Aug 29, 2009 13:48:56 GMT -5
Hopefully this coming week I'll get something up in Sound Samples. Right now I'm in Chicago for the weekend.
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Post by ashcatlt on Aug 29, 2009 23:37:58 GMT -5
Well then you're halfway here! I figure you could stop by cynical1's place and then ride an alpaca or two up to duluth. We'll have a grand old time!
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 30, 2009 9:56:23 GMT -5
Well then you're halfway here! I figure you could stop by cynical1's place and then ride an alpaca or two up to duluth. We'll have a grand old time! You know, before the wind turbines go up or the bank takes this place back, I do have a 50' x 100' pole barn with interesting acoustics that we could jam in. The horses already like Stevie Ray and Santana (they are Spanish gaited horses) so they're cool. Most of my neighbors are spread out...and the one next to me is deaf, so this has possibilities... Plus, there's a 10 acre pasture off the barn...we could do Nutstock...maybe Wadleigh and Scorsese will show up... Happy Trails Cynical One |
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