Tele wiring Q's

[swiftpicx]

Hello to all

I'm rebuilding a Tele & I would appreciate some advice.

The Pot's -- 250 or 500k ?
I'm using Fender Texas specials as pups

I read that the 500k are basically for hum bucker's, so that leaves me with the 250K ? ??

Should I use a no load pot on both the volume & treble, or just one ?
Should I add a jumper to join each pot also ?
any recommendations as to what brand of pot's

Among other thing's I've considered is a TBX tone pot, or a Paul Chandler Tone X ( I need to find the wiring diagram for this, any Idea's , Google is a no go on this )

I appreciate all reply's

Thanks for the advice

Steve

[newey]

Swift one-

Choice of pot values is largely a matter of preference, there isn't necessarily a right or wrong answer, within certain parameters.

250KΩ pots are often used with single coil pickups to knock off some of the brightness. But you can use a 500K pot if you like it brighter.

As has often been pointed out here, a 500K tone pot rolled down to about "7" will sound just like a 250K.

[swiftpicx]

Thank you New

One can learn many " New " things from these boards.

I shall go with the 500K , but should it be a" No load" for each, or just one ( V/T ? )

Any advice on the TBX or the Chandler Tone X

All replies are appreciated

Steve

[sydsbluesky]

Pot make is also a matter of preference. As a general rule they all do the same thing, so it just comes down to build quality of the piece. Something that isn't scratchy, works evenly over the range of the knob and that you think will last a while.

Mmm... perhaps no mini pots as a rule, however? I'm not sure if they really have merit, but I know a few people who dislike them.

A push-pull or two is always an option while you're in there, too.


Oh, and as for the jumper, you mean as a ground, right?

I guess that depends on the grounding method you're going to use. Might want to check out your shielding/grounding options while you have it emptied out.

[swiftpicx]

Thank you for the reply.

Any one with an opinion on the Load ~ No Load pot's ?

I'm a sponge for info. & experience here, so Please Lmk what you think about it.

Thanks Again


Steve

[ashcatlt]

Does this help on the TBX?

I'm not sure that a no-load pot on the volume would provide acceptable results. The way I figure it, you'd have the added high frequency response when the thing is turned all the way up, same as having no V control at all. This can be subtle, but I personally like that added bite. The problem is, though, if you turn it down it all, it goes OFF. There is no longer any path of conductance between the wiper and the "high-side" of the pot, and therefore no output.

Better might be to get a Push/Pull for one of the pots and use this to disconnect both V and T for a kind of Turbo Mode.

[swiftpicx]

Thank you on the info for the TBX control, I'll give it some thought.
I'm trying to find more info. on the Chandler Tone X, & any one who has come across one. I understand it comes standard in a Joe Perry LP. Just wondering how it would fare in a SC pup(s) in a Tele

Any Opinion ?

Thanks Again

Steve













Thanks Again !

Steve

[newey]

I'm trying to find more info. on the Chandler Tone X, & any one who has come across one. I understand it comes standard in a Joe Perry LP.

I didn't know anything about these, but I found the Chandler Tone-X, $50 at MF. This is an active onboard preamp, on a PCB, so it's not something you can just duplicate yourself (unless etching PCBs is in your bag of tricks).

Assuming this is the same thing you're talking about.

As far as the TBX, we've had some discussion here about those on several occasions. Unfortunately, the software's search function kicks out any search terms of less than 4 characters, so "TBX" is unsearchable and I can't recall where the thread is at so as to link you to it.

But those who have used TBX equipped guitars seemed distinctly underwhelmed by it. I believe ChrisK described the bass- cutting effect as "very subtle".

As far as brands of pots, better quality does not mean any tonal difference or improvement. Better quality may mean that it's manufactured to tighter tolerances, that it operates more smoothly, and/or that it is better sealed, to keep out moisture and schmutz.

One of the first tips I learned on this board was not to buy electronic components like pots and switches from guitar parts suppliers. Electronic supply houses have a much larger selection at lower prices. I have ordered from both Mouser and Digikey. Both have good customer service and provide complete info on their products.

Since they sell hundreds of different types of pots, however, you do have to double check that you're getting exactly what you want. You want either 250KΩ or 500KΩ ones, your choice of audio (log) taper or linear taper, panel mounted with solder lugs, with 1/4" dia. shafts (which can be knurled or solid, depending on the knobs you're using). Shaft length also varies.

I use the mini-pots (usually either 14mm or 17mm, as opposed to the std 24mm size- also often called "dime-sized" vs. "quarter-sized") quite a bit. The specs on these can be as good as the bigger ones, and they buy one a bit of extra room in the cavity for fitment of extra switches and custom wiring schemes.

As far as brand names, I have used CTS, Alpha, Honeywell, and Clarostat, all seem to be of good quality. Sealed military-spec units are available but they cost more and are probably overkill for guitar use.

[ashcatlt]

It's been my experience that the 1/4" shafts are too big for standard guitar knobs. Rick knobs (with the set screw) fit fine. Strat, Tele, and LP knobs have to be "modified" and only occassionally survive the endeavor.

[newey]

Ash is right on the knobs. If it's an imported part, it's likely meant for a 6mm shaft, which works out to about .236". So, if you're re-using existing knobs, you want to check the diameter before ordering pots.

You can order pots with a 6 mm shaft if that's what the knobs require.

If you're replacing the knobs as well, then order the knobs accordingly.

Also be aware that, while set-screw knobs can be made to work on the split-shaft style pots, the knobs for a split shaft won't work on a solid shaft.

[ChrisK]

But those who have used TBX equipped guitars seemed distinctly underwhelmed by it. I believe ChrisK described the bass- cutting effect as "very subtle".

For the record, the Fender Treble Bbutt eXpander pot (TBX) is really two functions built into one dual element pot.

The first is a typical high frequency cut tone control from "5" to "0" on a Strat knob (the same effect over half of the rotational range).

The second is a gradual reduction in parallel load resistance from "5" to "10" on a Strat knob. This effect is similar to a gradual rather than quick no-load tone pot effect (which occurs from "9" to "10" on a no-load pot). It only reduces the pickup's load impedance somewhat.

It is a subtle expansion of the treble (harmonic) frequencies (up to the no-load point) rather than a bass-cut effect (which can only happen with a series capacitor or a parallel inductor.


Now, a clever sort would realize that, by using a true blend pot (not the mixer pan pots sold by virtually all guitar parts mongers) with one section effecting the parallel treble-cut tone function and the other effecting the resistance bypassed series output capacitor function, a real treble-cut/bass-cut tone function could be realized.

Note that these are only available in linear taper.

www.darrenriley.com/fenderparts.htm

Note that he calls them PAN pots (they are not). A PAN pot is comprised of a log and anti-log element (both are in linear piecewise approximation form) driven by the same shaft.

These are BLEND pots (both linear sections are FULLY ON [aka ZERO Ohms] in the center detent setting.

But, what do we expect from Fender and their whole 50 year long tremo'Leo/when it's a freakin' vibrato fiasco.


"AC Circuit Theory 101."

[swiftpicx]

As Always

Thanks' to all for the reply

Please continue


Steve

[newey]

Swifty-

As Always
Thanks' to all for the reply

Please continue

No, the ball is in your court, so to speak!

Based on the foregoing, your queries about pots and their values has been answered, as has your query on types of pots. The TBX has also been covered.

1) Is the link I provided in fact what you meant by the "Paul Chandler Tone X"? And do you want to shoehorn an active preamp into this build?

2) Is your reference to a "jumper between the pots" a ground connection for the pot shells?

3) If the goal of the no-load pot(s) is for a solo "Turbo" setting, would you consider using a push/pull for JohnH's suggested "turbo switch" instead (a better option, IMO- sort of like Leo's old Esquire scheme where one setting bypasses the tone pot for a more "Direct Out")

[ashcatlt]

That "turbo switch" was my idea. Don't think JohnH has posted here yet.

Anyway, it turns out to be a little more complicated than it sounds. There are some options and trade-offs to consider. If you're interested, though, I'm sure we can hack something together for you.

[swiftpicx]

Thanks To All !!

The Links were GREAT !
(now I'm really on what to do )

I do appreciate all of the help.[/size]
I almost feel like I know what I'm doing , & that's scary!!
Now I'll have to make some decisions.
I will probably order extra pots of diff. values, along with diff.caps also.

Maybe I should stock up on some brew also, I could be inside for awhile, a long while ;D

Thanks to all again !!

Steve