Suhr Guthrie Govan wiring

[endowug]

I've been looking for information on the Suhr Guthrie Govan wiring schematic for quite a while now, and I found some threads that came pretty close to what I intend doing, but weren't exactly the right thing. Ed Yoon of Suhr Guitar's describes Guthrie Govan's electronics as follows:

Here are the pickup settings for the GG Model:

1 - Neck humbucker
2 - Outside coil of neck humbucker and middle
3 - Outside coils of both humbuckers
4 - Inside coil of bridge humbucker and middle
5 - Bridge humbucker

Push-pull tone pot - split neck HB, outside coil of neck HB

Blower switch - Bridge HB bypass all wiring inside guitar - straight to output jack (louder and brighter than normal position 5)

Thanks and Best Regards,


ED YOON
MARKETING | SALES | CUSTOMER SERVICE

The guitar I want to modify is an Ibanez S4170AB with HSH-pups. The only thing I would like to change is the use of a push-push instead of the blower switch, thus avoiding the necessity of drilling an extra hole into the guitar. When I asked for help concerning the schematic, Mr Yoon answered:
"We don't have a wiring diagram for this switching scheme. There's a special custom-made PCB for the Blower switch and that's pretty complicated."

Well, if anyone can deal with complicated stuff I think it's the folks at this forum. Has anyone got any idea how to make the above pup settings, the additional neck pup split and the blower switch work together? So far I only know that a 5-way-megaswitch has to be involved, but how to accomplish the other functions I have no clue. Maybe it's all very simple, and somewhere there's already a solution waiting for me in this forum. If not, I'm counting on the combined genius of everyone reading this.

[newey]

endowug-

Hello and Welcome!

The blower switch shouldn't be difficult with a p/p. And wiring a 5-way superswitch to give those combos is doable. We have diagrams around to do both of those, I'll have to do some digging in the archives.

It's a bit unusual to use the outside coil of the neck HB to split in combo with the middle, that combo may not be hum-cancelling on your Ibanez, depending on the orientation of the coils. The Suhr coils may be opposite of yours.

Think of this as 3 separate modules. We can come up with diagrams for each part of the whole, then integrate all 3 into one final diagram.

[endowug]

Wow, that was fast, and what I like best about your answer: It doesn't contain the word "difficult", but "doable"! How could that hum-cancelling problem be dealt with? I'm really looking forward to what you come up with, sounds promising!

[sumgai]

newey,

Take another run through the logic here:

Both outer coils are humbucking, ergo one is RWRP to the other.

Neck/outer and Mid are humbucking, so ditto above. We're still not sure which one is RWRP yet, so.....

Since the above two are humbucking, it stands to reason that Mid and Bridge/outer are NWIP*, no? Then we're forced to use Bridge/inner with the Middle pup in order to get humbucking.

~!~!~!~!~
endo,

Guten tag, und Wilkommen zum NutzHaus!

Questions for you:

1) Do the Ibby pickups have four wires coming out of the pickup (plus a shield wire)? If not, then your plans are going to have to include either modifications to your pups, or the purchase of new ones that do have the 4 separate wires.

2) Some Ibanez guitars have one of the two pickups installed "backwards" - is yours one of them? You may end up having to either modify a pickup for this factor, or else changing the wiring around so that the proper coils are selected to obtain humbucking combos.

What you want is pretty standard, and there may already be a schematic on this Forum for that setup. I'll let newey do the looking for that, he's usually pretty good at it.

The blower switch part is easy. Once a suitable schematic is located (or produced, if we don't have one), one of us will show you how to rig it up. (And don't believe that snob who said "it's complicated, and needs a special board" - he's wahnsinnig!)

HTH




sumgai


* NWIP - Normal Wound, In Phase

[newey]

Ok, here's what I got. I'm not sure this is quite what endo wants, nor am I quite sure it's correct. I can't seem to work around the issue with the bridge blower on and the 5-way set to position 4 (counting from neck as "1"). I'm also not sure I've got the neck pup set up right for the coil cut/ full HB.

This is, at best, a starting point for discussions.



Attention! Circuit vetters to the Service Desk, Please!

(In other words, don't heat your soldering iron just yet . . .)

EDIT: Also, I assumed single V and T controls. I didn't use the word "difficult", but the above diagram doesn't look "easy" to me either. There's a lot of wiring involved here, and as with all such schemes, expect that some troubleshooting will be required after assembly!

[JohnH]

Good start newey - one thing to take care of would be to get the position 3 both outer coils, instead of middle pup only.

As you have noticed, I also see a fundamental puzzle regarding the blower switch on a push pull, in which no matter what, it 'blows' to the full bridge humbucker. Such a switching would most obviously be wired with two poles, in the manner of a bypass switch, one pole from the bridge humbucker, sending it to the rest of the switching, or to output, and the other pole on the output, selecting signals either from the switching or directly from the bridge via the first pole. The puzzle is how to also disconnect the additional wiring that coil cuts the bridge pickup - which seems to need a third pole on the blower. This is possible on a toggle, but not a standard push/pull, or push push switch as part of a pot. It should be possible to find a a seperate push button though


ps here is a link that decribes it some more:
www.guitarnoize.com/blog/category/cool-guitars/P20/

John

[newey]

one thing to take care of would be to get the position 3 both outer coils, instead of middle pup only.

Oops. I should've gone back and read the original post a little closer. I'll attempt a revision.

[sumgai]

newey,

Not bad for a first draft!

The so-called "blower" is easy - like you've done before, and I've advised you before.... simply reverse one pole of the switch such that its common is going to the output jack, and that pole is selecting either Bridge pup or the 5-way switch. The other pole's common is hooked to the Bridge such that it selects between the 5-way and the output jack.

Sad to say, there's no way for a simple DPDT (as in an ordinary push-pull switch) to also isolate the Bridge humbucker's "lower" coil in position 4. To do that requires a third pole, or IOW, a 3PDT switch. Unless someone has a source for such parts (3PDT or 4PDT push-pull switches), then we're almost out of luck here.

Almost? Well, if one is willing to use a push-push, as in the Fender S-1 arrangement (available from various eBay sellers), then one can obtain a 4PDT switch, and then one gets a setup that fulfills all the requirements as originally specified in the first post.

BTW endowug, this is the switch that Suhr is using - they don't use a push-pull on one of the pots. For my money, Suhr's way is much faster and easier to operate when you're in the heat of a searing solo. But that's just my opinon, of course.


HTH


sumgai

*I'll be outta town for the day tomorrow (Saturday), so it'll be awhile before I can get a drawing made and posted. If one of you can beat me to it, so much the better.

[endowug]

I'll try to answer your questions.

newey:
1. The Ibby pups have four wires plus a shield wire, that's what I checked the moment I thought about modifying it.
2. Counting wires is something I can do, but so far I didn't think about the way the pups are installed. How can I check on that?
3. Your assumption of single volume and tone controls was correct.

sumgai:
I think form has to follow function, and if it can't be done with a push-pull, it will be done with a switch just like in the original Suhr design. If pups have to be changed, they will.

Being the electronocal half wit I am, I will never start arguing if something can't be done or insist in the impossible. If you tell me what I need, how it is done and can help me with the ( hopefully not needed) troubleshooting I'm happy.

[JohnH]

sumgai - id forotten about the S1 switches being 4 pole. That would be neat indeed, if one can be bought.

Other than that, I think the blower switch is likley to end up as a three pole minitoggle switch - a good option, since they have a positive flick and give you a visual clue as to how they are set. - one 1/4"hole needed to mount it.

I would suggest, for the 5 way super switch:

Pole 1: selects, neck, neck, neck, middle, nothing
Pole 2: selects, nothing, middle, bridge bridge, bridge
Poles 3 and 4: make appropriate coil cuts to the neck and bridge pickups - probably by shunting coils
Neck coil cut switch - seperate switch that replicates pole 3
Blower switch: two poles to bypass the switching to connect bridge directly to output, one pole to disconnect bridge coil shunting

cheers

John

[newey]

Well guys, I took another stab at this, assuming the use of a 3PDT switch for the blower, and now I'm totally confused.

I have absolutely no confidence that this is right, so I don't even really know why I'm posting it. It's a hot mess.



Maybe I'd better let someone more saavy step in?

EDIT: und weiter:

Fröhliches Gebürtstag, endowug!

[JohnH]

Heres a sketchy scheme:



It amounts to one of the more complex wirings around. I think that to build it would need a wiring diagram showing the physical switches and connection wires, But this schematic shows a possible approach to the connectivity, for review by anyone who would like to.

Some care will be needed to get the coils of the Hbs correctly wired so that they are hum cancelling with each other and with the middle pickup. It is not obvious that this will all drop out without some trial and error (especially error)

ps Ill be away for most of next week, back next wekend
John

[newey]

Thanks, John! I'll try to neaten that up a bit, but it looks like it's got the goods.

I find myself wondering if the reference to a "PCB' being necessary for the blower refers to a switch with a PCB to make a 3P push/pull pot?

[endowug]

Thanks John and Newey for all the brain work you put into this. I was very happy when Sumgai thought what I wanted was "pretty standard", but when Newey posted his schematic and called it "a hot mess" I started to worry, always having Ed Yoon's "custom-made PCB and pretty complicated" ringing in my ears. But now that John has come up with his scheme everything looks better again, though there might (or most definitely will) be some problems. Should there be any problems concerning the pickups, I wouldn't hesitate and get new ones. Consequently, I thought of getting the Suhr pups used in Guthrie's model.
Newey: I'm not sure if mentioning a PCB referred to a tricky push-pull device, because - as Sumgai already wrote - there is no push-pull activated Blower in Guthrie's guitar, but a small extra switch placed directly next to the volume pot. The switch (button is maybe a better word for it) is actually that small that I only noticed it in a close up shot.
And finally: Not only are you guys extremely fast and creative in the realms of electronics, but you also manage to produce bits of German! Thank you for your birthday greetings, I think I will have a few drinks on you tonight! (to be honest I already had a few last night )

[endowug]

I forgot to post the schematic I found in the description of an Eyb 5-way-megaswitch, which is probably far too late now because you seem to have worked it out. It's exactly what I want concerning pup combinations, but omits blower and neck split functions.
www.rockinger.com/index.php?page=ROC_Workshop_Schalter1
It's a but further down the page under "Verdrahtung für Humbucker/Singlecoil/Humbucker", but with your knowledge of German I wouldn't have to mention that

[sumgai]

endo,


John's schematic is correct, if drawn a bit messy. newey's schematic is messy, and incorrect, no matter that it looks very nice. The difference is, newey is still learning his drawing program, whereas John "cheated", and used very-low technology! ;D

I think you'll find that laying out all the connections will be just as easy, once you get the parts in front of you. The only "difficulty" will be procurring a switch that can do the "blower" function, in a form that you'll like.

BTW, the Neck's split-coil switch, what John labels as S3..... that's a single-use switch, by which I mean that it's useful in only one position of the 5-way switch. Overall, you're gonna have 6 possible tones, besides the blower option. I think you can get better use out of that switching option, and get more a wider tonal pallette.

For instance, you could use a DPDT to split both humbuckers, in positions 1 & 5 - that would give you 7 tonal possibilities. There are other things you can do too, if you want. If you want to go with a toggle instead of a push-pull, you could implement a 3-throw switch, giving you parallel/split/series connections. (That would be for just the Neck humbucker. Doing both of 'em would require a switch dedicated to each pup.)

If you wanted to go really Nutz, you could implement a 4PDT, and get series combinations as well as the parallel ones you already have. Around the NutzHouse, we call this the Mike Richardson modification, or "MR mod" for short.

Lot's of possibilities, all with just one switch. (Besides your blower, of course.) It's up to you, mein Freund.

HTH



sumgai

[newey]

Sg-
Endo's original post was somewhat unclear on exactly how the neck coil-cut would operate, other than that it is using a p/p pot, therefore is a DPDT. I think John misread the intention of that switch, it's not just a SP switch to cut the coil in position 1. I took it to mean that it was supposed to override the 5-way, giving the neck top coil in conjunction with the 5-way selection, so as to access N + B combos.

That's what I was trying to achieve (and I think I did, at least in my first scheme). The split coil bypasses the 5-way when selected.

As specified, the neck top coil is the only one that is split, versus the bridge where both coils are used individually. I find myself wondering whether using the switch to select the other coil of the neck wouldn't be better, as any potential non-hum-cancelling combos could be addressed by selecting the other neck coil. There would also be less redundancy in the switch positions. Sound-wise, either neck coil alone will likely sound the same anyway, so hum-cancellation is the only real issue.

Ibanez normally makes the N and Br inner coils RWRP with respect to the middle for its "progressive coil" scheme; that's the way my S470 is set up. Therefore, regardless of what Suhr does, I would expect the N & Br outer coils to be NWNP with respect to the middle on endo's Ibby pups.

[JohnH]

the thing is though, that other than the first position, all the others already cut the neck to one coil, or do not use the neck at all, so position 1 is the only other one where the neck can be cut further.

With that amount of switching, theres more that can be done, but the scheme focusses on easy access to the combos requested.

Sorry about hand-sketched diagram, but it was that or nothing, 10minutes work or not enough time to do more. Actually, I do that kind of sketch every time, its where the thinking takes place!

John

[sumgai]

John,

I wasn't taking you to task, far from it! I was saying that you got the diagram right, and that "looks" should take a back seat to functionality, tha's all - I swear!

~!~!~!~!~
newey,

I took endo's request as John did, he wanted to have the option of using the Neck with only one coil, while the 5-way was in position 1 (Neck). You raise an interesting possibility, but the diagram that endo referenced further on shows the Schaller Megaswitch wired like John has proposed. It's just a gawd-awful complicated way to get the same results, that's the only difference I can find.

When you mount the pickps as Ibanez does (for the 'rolling combo's scheme), you can't get Bridge + Neck from the expected pair of coils - it would have to be either Neck/inner + Bridge/outer, or the other way around. Nothing wrong with that, but it needs explaining, just in case things aren't as they first appear to be.

~!~!~!~!~
Both a-ya's,

While it's kinda odd that we didn't all see the original request the same way, it's sorta serendipity that we got some nice ideas out of the thing. At least I think so.

And for the record, the Bridge is in full humbucker mode in position 5, yes? What's wrong with using a DPDT for S3, and letting it be split too?


~!~!~!~!~
endowug,

Your further input would be appreciated. You've seen the debate above, so make of it what you will, but whatever you do, please don't get the feeling that there's gonna be any hard feelings here. Trust me, we do this all the time for members, both new and long-time, and no one has ever been hurt yet. (Well, there is an on-going puzzle about one particular fella, but that's neither here nor there. It happened a long time ago, so we can safely ignore that instance, for this conversation anyways.)

For my part, I merely suggested that since you're gonna have a switch anyways, it only makes sense to me that you have it spread out your tonal options as widely as possible. There are limits.... but we Nutz have a developed the habit of ignoring them on a daily basis! ;D

HTH




sumgai

[JohnH]

sumgai - I also wondered about using another pole on S3 to get bridge split too. Two issues may be relevant:

The neck pickup gets auto split in positions 2 and 3, always to the outer coil. So S3 can easily piggyback on this arrangement, to make a difference in pos 1 and without messing up 2 and 3. But the bridge pup is auto split to either inner or outer coil, in pos 4 and 3 respectively. Forcing another split to happen, might cause a conflict, resulting in a dead spot. THere may be a work around, if this feature was wanted, not sure.(EDIT yes there is, pole d on the 5 way could control this)

The other thought is, in this scheme which is not aiming to do all sounds, but to make just the wanted ones easily available, neck single coil is often a nicer sound than bridge humbucker split. With S3 only working on the neck, then both Bridge Hb and Neck sc (personally, my two favorite settings of all) are available just by moving the 5-way switch, instead of needing two steps to move between them.

John

[JohnH]

On further thought, I reckon that if it was decided to make S3 do more than it does, then it should take over control of all coil cutting in all positions.

Ie, pushed in, N, N+M, B+N, B+M, B, all based on full humbucker wiring for the N and B. Then with S3 pulled out, N and B cut to single coils in each position, but with exactly which coils being cut determined as before by the 5-way, for optimum hum control.

So with that, it would have a full 5+5=10 selection of different sounds, one set being Stratishly single coil based (including the Tele-oid B+N single coil combo), while the other set would be Gibson-like based on combining humbuckers, singley or as a pair, or with the middle Sc.

Bridge blower switch to full humbucker, an extra bonus.
Any interest?

John

[newey]

JohnH's link to the article on this guitar mentions that it uses a "Mega Switch", presumably referring to the Schaller Megaswitch® Endowug's original post mentions a "megaswitch", while both JohnH and I have proceeded on the assumption that a Fender Superswitch would be used.

Endo, If you're going to use the Schaller, the wiring will be different. There are also several different varieties of the Schaller, for different purposes.

EDIT: Somehow, I missed Endo's reply #14 where he clarified that it is indeed the Megaswitch. Endo, if that's the switch you're going to use, we'll have to rethink this!!

[endowug]

The only switch I came across was the Eyb Megaswitch Version E which delivered exactly the functions I want. Lug 1 would be middle pup hot, lug 2 neck pup hot, lug 3 to the volume pot, lug 4 to ground, lug 5 neck pup tap, lug 6 bridge pup tap, lug 7 bridge pup hot. I don't know if this switch is identical to a Fender superswitch or the one by Schaller, but since I haven't bought any parts yet that's no big deal - I'll use whatever works and would be very grateful if you could recommend the best quality parts.

The idea of expanding the tonal possibilities adds new flavour to the whole project, but after a good night's thinking I'm very likely to stick to the basic idea. I think John got the intention: Not as many sounds as possible, but the intended ones at one's fingertips. I remember playing guitars with loads of switches and buttons, but in the end there was only a handful of good combinations I used. Just like John I'm a fan of neck single coil and bridge humbucker. That's exactly what I play in my modded Jackson with the EMG Steve Lukather set (HSS).

So, I think it will be the relatively simple layout from the original post with the blower switch and the neck split working in pos 1 of the 5-way. Feel free to use whichever components you think are best suited to create a hassle-free system and tell me which parts I should try to get. I'm still a bit worried about the general pup thing concerning hum free combination of the humbuckers and the middle pup. It obviously seems to work in Guthrie's guitar, and if need be I'd get his pickups. You mentioned something about RWRP (I know what that is), but I don't know a thing about the Ibby's pups except that they are DiMarzio/ibz.

[JohnH]

OK, well that’s a plan then – no added complication. The E switch does indeed seem to do what is needed, heres the info clipped from the rockinger site. All that would be needed to go with it is the neck split switch, wired to shunt the neck inner coil (which needs to be in the Spule 2 position), and the 3 pole blower switch, wired using the same principle as on my diagram.

In operation, the scheme will be the same as when using the superswitch. The megaswitch scheme would have simpler wiring. Does anyone have advice as to other issues such as switch quality or cost?

For the blower – we have identified two options – a Fender S1 switch, or a 3 pole mini toggle. The s1 is a 250k volume pot with a pushon/push off button in the centre of the knob. You have to use the Fender knob. (is this correct Sumgai – I think you have this on your guitar?). There is some digging needed to find these for sale. The mini toggle is easy to find, in 3 or 4 poles. Any other options for the blower switch?

As to wiring it up, to be sure about wire colours, humcancelling and whether the pickups need to be rotated, I think it would help to see a wiring diagram for the original HSH Ibanez wiring of that model. I cant seem to find one – and cant connect to Ibanez.com for some reason. Can anyone else point to a diagram for an Inanez S4170AB?

Im now away until next Sunday

John

Info on Megaswitch:



Schalterstellung
Position 1: Stegpickup
Position 2: Mittelpickup und gesplitteter Stegpickup (Spule 1) parallel
Position 3: gesplitteter Halspickup (Spule 1) und gesplitteter Stegpickup ( Spule 2) parallel
Position 4: gesplitteter Halspickup (Spule 1) und Mittelpickup parallel
Position 5: Halspickup

[sumgai]

John,

(Welcome back!)

You're correct about me having a Fender S1 on my rig.

From past discussions here, we know that the general electronics supply chain is not what you'd call "forthcoming" with an abundance of these units, sorry to say. (Which is why I mentioned eBay.) However, while the Strat had more-or-less standard knobs that are numbered, the Telecaster, and the P- and J-basses as well, have knobs that aren't numbered - they have the standard appearance for their respective rigs, but they're generic enough that they could reasonably be used on other axes, I should think.

But if Suhr is now doing something similar, then we might see a turning of the tide, so to speak. Quick, somone run out and buy one of these guitars, try it for a few days, then return if you don't like it. But in the meantime, take it apart and see what's under the hood! Get pictures. Get date-stamps. Get mfg's part numbers, even their name, if you can. Did I mention, take pictures?

Short of that, it really looks like a more commonly available, not to mention very standard, mini-toggle switch is in endo's near future.

As for the MegaSwitch and/or the Eyb, both of those are made in Germany, so he may have a better deal, financially, with one of those. I seem to recall that the Eyb switches impressed the dickens out of both Unklmickey and ChrisK, so they are probably worth investigating.

Other than that, how was your trip?




sumgai

[endowug]

sumgai,

I had a look at the Fender S1, and I think that Suhr doesn't take the same approach. They use an extra switch placed next to the volume pot (Have a look here: www.suhrguitars.com/artistModels.aspx?series=gg , enlarge close-up 4), and I would prefer that one because you hardly notice it, and I also would like to keep the hardware items matching as far as possible. It's something called antique black (I can't remember the exact name), and using the S1 would look a bit weird. I couldn't find pictures of the Ibby, so you can get an idea what the hardware looks like here: www.youtube.com/user/Endowug

[sumgai]

endo,

Same thing, different mounting scheme. It doesn't matter if there's some kind of knob with a depress-able insert on the top, or just a simple piece of plastic, they're both actuating the same mechanism underneath. In fact, Fender used a very similar switch in their "Player's Strat" for several years. Push-push, but it was only a DPDT. (And used only one pole of the two, to turn the Bridge always on.)

Of course I'm not 100% positive how Suhr is doing it, but to my engineering mind, if they're using only a DPDT, then they're not doing "the whole enchilada" - probably the Bridge lower coil is left connected, such that in position 4 you would still be hearing the upper coil, but the lower coil would be cut, just as it is when "unblown".

HTH



sumgai

[JohnH]

endo - I saw you vid ....cool tune...and the particularly the guitar.

I found this pic on the net: Does it look like yours?



So for the new arrangement, how does this sound?:

• the 5-way is replaced by the Eyb mega-switch
  
• the neck on is a push pull switch, on the volume pot? or on the tone pot?
  
• The blower switch, of what ever type, goes between the two pots - maybe a bit nearer to the volume pot? or halfway between?

I tried to find the current wiring, but I still can't. If this can not be found, please could the following be answered.

• Are the pickups the original DiMarzio ones?
  
• What wire colours come from each pickup (for N and B, 4 colours plus bare?)
  
• for each pickup, which wires are grounded (ie probably soldered to the back of a pot)
  
• For the two humbuckers, probably there are two wires joined together, what colours are they?
  
• for each position, what are the pickup combinations? which coils are active? (can be confirmed by tapping poles lightly with a screwdriver tip)
  

cheers

John

[endowug]

Hi John,

yep, the picture shows the right guitar. I'll try to answer your question as detailed as possible.
1. The pups in my guitar are the original DiMarzios.
2. The wire colours are green, red, black, white and bare.
3. The grounded wires for both neck and bridge are green.
4. The joined wires for both neck and bridge are black and white.
5. Switching functions are: 1 - neck, 2 - neck inner coil + middle, 3 - middle, 4 - middle + inner coil bridge, 5 - bridge.

How the wires go into the 5-way (I don't know how to number them - left to right or the other way round?): 1 - black and white neck, 2- ground (connected to the 5-way itself), 3 - black and white bridge, 4 - unused, 5 - volume, 6- red neck (no insult meant), 7 - black middle, 8 - red bridge (I hope I got it all right)

The position of the switch: It really depends on the kind of switch used for the blower function. In a perfect world I would use the same kind of switch used in the Suhr GG model, and exactly in the same position (the link to the pictures is in post #25). This location is the most natural one and offers the best access. If I had to use a toggle switch, this position would be prone to accidental switching due to heavy strumming, so I would agree with you that a toggle switch would best be placed between the pots, and relatively close to the volume pot.
I think the push-pull for the neck should be in the tone pot, so that fiddling with the volume pot can't result in accidental switching.

I hope that answered your questions so far. Thanks again a thousand times for all your help - to all of you involved so far!

Endo

[JohnH]

endo - thanks for that. It seems to confirm that the two humbuckers are both wired the same, and to standard DiMarzio colour conventions, red hot, black/white joined and green ground.

For the middle pickup - Id guess the wires are black and white, with black to ground?

It seems from the photo that currently, the screw coils are the two outer coils. However the middle pickup is currently combined only with inner coils, and the SGG wiring calls for it to be combined with the outer coils in positions 2 and 4. Assuming that humcancelling is currently optimised for the middle/inner combos, something must be done to make this work with middle/outer combos instead. What do you think of the following:

• you can physically spin the neck and bridge pups 180 degrees, so the slug coils change from the inner to the outer positions, where they will continue to be humcancelling with the middle pickup, or
  
• You can remove the magnet from both humbuckers, and spin it so its two long thin edges swap positions, and also change wires appropriately, or
  
• Remove the magnet from the middle pickup, reverse it top to bottom and swap wires (assuming it has one magnet on its base, not 6 seperate magnets), or
  
• get a new middle pickup
  
• live with inner/middle combos instead of outer/middle ones
  

I suggest the first option if possible, but you should consider if that results in any problem due to the wires physically coming from the other ends of the pickup once they are spun. I'm thinking of whether there is space to run these wires, and maybe they need to be extended.

cheers

John