line 6 210 rebuild?

[Double Yoi]

I have a line on a line 6 210 (redfaced) amp. CHEAP! the problem is, it's just the amp, no speakers, no cab. the face is cracked. he has it rigged and it sounds awesome. Im thinking build a cab for a 10 and 12(oO) replace the faceplate and I'll have a kickin combo. But Im not sure if i can get a replacement faceplate. Yous guys are the best I know for this stuff! Thank you in advance for the feedback.
I am searching the line6 sites forum section but no luck yet.
maybe i could fabricate one?

[cynical1]

Well, there's fabricating your own...then there's fabricating your own...

Did you want a metal or wood faceplate?

Do you know a good screen printer or sign shop in the area?

Are you any good with a vector based graphics program?


There's a reason I ask...Unless you're looking to go ultra cheap on this, it might be worth an e-mail to Line 6 and see if they're available as a replacement part. Doing this cheap or dirty or doing it right and professional are not related.

But if you're damned and determined...

I assume you're going to build the cabinet for this amp. If you going with a non-standard size then you're stuck making your own faceplate.

The sturdiest faceplates are the ones you use a pressbrake on, so all bends are clean and the "pan" is square and flush. Ideally you'll tack the corners, but who has access to a TIG welder anymore... You can always just go with a flat piece and mount brackets on it, but it won't be as sturdy unless you go stainless. Going with a thicker aluminum sheet gets expensive to the point where wood starts looking pretty good. Depends on what you can live with.

Going with a wood faceplate means you're either going thin on the wood, or routing out the mounting positions of the pots and/or controls.

As far as the graphics...What I do is find a large image of the faceplate I'm going after, then I drop it into a vector based program and overdraw everything. Somewhat of a learning curve starting out, but with some practice a faceplate takes maybe 30-45 minutes to draw out. Delete the faceplate image you imported and you're left with a nice vector version of your faceplate. This can be saved as an .eps file and any vinyl sign shop or screen printer can use this in their set-up. You can even drop in your cut lines and if you want additional colors you can provide .eps separations and registration marks. Sounds like a lot of work, but this will save you around $150.00-$200.00 in set-up fees at said shop.

Make sure that whoever does puts an overlay on the top. This way you pull the adhesive off the back, line up you work, then squeegee it down to the plate. When you pull the top overlay all that remains on your faceplate is your graphics...all nicely aligned and professional looking.

Make sure whoever does your graphics work knows the application and the top clearcoat so that whatever they use won't melt off when you finish it. For you project I'd be leaning for the vinyl sign guy, as that stuff can take just about anything without lifting. If you go vinyl on wood you'll have to apply a finish and sand flat prior to applying the graphics...or they just won't stick pard'...

As a side note, I did a cabinet for a guys amp and we put a black faceplate on with white lettering. We then mounted a black-light to the top overhang on the front of the amp. When the black-light was on it wasn't intrusive on stage, but it made all the legend information jump out at you in a dark venue...and it was kinda trippy depending on your altered state...

Hope this helps.

Happy Trails

Cynical One

[Double Yoi]

Thanks Cyn,
I spoke with a dealer in Myrtle Beach about a factory replacement, He was cranky that i just needed the part and not the install, doubt he will call me back. I also logged onto line6 but have found no info on ordering this type of part. I have no idea what a vector based graphics program is. I am planning a combo loaded with a 10 and a 12 so there would be some space left on the sides of the faceplate like this]free busted amp[. The other idea was to go the traditional head and cab set up. The latter would probably be easier. The black light idea sounds sick. Was the light hard wired to the amp? Looking at my little marshall, i bet that logo would look trippy lit up on stage.

You sir, are The MAN

[Double Yoi]

So, i just got off the phone with line6 and WOW! They are sending me the new faceplate, get this, FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[cynical1]

Free is good. Congrats on saving yourself a lot of work.

HTC1

[Double Yoi]

Line 6 was mistaken with the faceplate they had in stock, so back to square one. I checked a local engraving shop and they can laser engrave wood. I post pics in the gallery soon.

[Double Yoi]

No dice on the wooden faceplate. I have seen a guy online who makes custom faceplates to order, I'm leaning toward just rack mounting the thing. The amp is 19". I believe thats the standard length on the racks.

[cynical1]

19" sounds like a standard rack mount to me...

[ashcatlt]

19" includes the rack ears. The bulk of the unit will need to fit in the 17.75" gap between the rack rails.

[Double Yoi]

Thanks fellas,
BZ ;D