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Post by rabidgerry on Mar 31, 2010 13:50:05 GMT -5
Yeah I spent over this guitars value years ago!! What was that you where saying about being a guitar nut?
But I want to get this squire strat as best as it can be, for my own personal enjoyment. It was my first guitar and I wont need to retire it if I make it stay in tune when using a trem.
Anyways It will work cheaper than the Cort, about £110!! May be not much when thats changed to euros! But where is the fun in just buying a new guitar!!
I like the idea of customising hence being on this site in the first place and I really wanna sort this strat out as it sounds amazin!! (to me) Up the Squire Strat I say!! ;D
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Post by dunkelfalke on Mar 31, 2010 13:59:50 GMT -5
Well, what can I say, on my second guitar I've replaced first the tuners, then the saddles, then the neck, then the nut, then the body, then the pickups and so on. After I've finished, no single part of the old guitar was still in place, so I do understand what you are doing.
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Post by newey on Mar 31, 2010 18:37:53 GMT -5
Reminds me of the story of Grandpa's axe (and I don't mean his guitar . . .)
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Post by rabidgerry on Apr 1, 2010 8:00:04 GMT -5
Yip there you have it!! We're all nuts!! I'm determined to get this strat up to its full potential, especially since so many people don't use the (fender made) strat for metal anymore. Yet so many great sounds and albums have been used making them. I make it my mission to flaunt that I'm using one so when people go "hey man why are you using a fender strat, you really ought to use something black and pointy and with EMF's" then I can kick their butt with the great tones and textures that helped make metal in the first place!! Just a personal vendetta but it also sets me apart from the pack ;-) (especially in Ireland, the land of people who tow the line).
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 17, 2010 10:57:49 GMT -5
Ok tis is ages after I started this thread and what I'm about to ask doesn't match up with the original subject but the topic of discussion involved tuners and I have something to ask about new tuners I eventually installed on my axe. I got me the SD91 locking and height adjustable GOTOH tuners, and all seemed fine after the install. That is until I put the strings on, and what happened was I noticed unhealthy amount of string post tilt!!! I took the strings of immediately. I was wondering does anyone have any idea to why this may be? I can only think of one thing......I didn't use either set of eye hole bushing things that the tuning pegs poke through, I just used the original ones that where on my guitar already.....why? Because the tuners fit through them and the new tuners came with two sets, one slightly deeper than the other and I didn't know what set to use so I just left the original ones on!!! Also the new bushings are slightly wider and don't fit into the exisiting holes of the old bushings which I left on. Hope someone can help!!!
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Post by chuck on Jun 17, 2010 13:13:37 GMT -5
usually 3 springs work fine. use that as a starting point and find what works best for you. try the different gauges to find what you like best.
as for bridge angle on a Strat. the Fender Vintage Vibrato was designed to float , and they DO stay in tune when set up properly. i have never seen the need for those backstop gizmos . in fact they eliminate the flutter effect when you tap the vibrato bar , which is something i like to use.
but we all have our own styles , and different setups work for different folks .
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 18, 2010 8:21:07 GMT -5
Chuck, I'm fine on the trem setup at the moment, but look at the previous message from myself.......its new tuners I'm messed up over, they bend!!!! I wanna know if the supplied bushings with the tuners (of which there are two sets that came in the box) will stop this post bending, I've never saw tuners bend this much never. And these tuners are way too expensive to bend so its something I've done wrong with installation I think.
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Post by chuck on Jun 18, 2010 12:21:31 GMT -5
sorry RG , i didnt see your last post ...
i am assuming that you need to use the supplied bushings. did the tuners come with destructions ... i mean INstructions ?
how are the tuners height adjustable ? i have never seen anything like that .
if the new tuners require the use of the included bushings that are too large for the tuner holes, you might have to ream those tuner holes to match the bushings.
just be sure to research the situation and know exactly what you are doing before you drill anything .
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 21, 2010 9:59:17 GMT -5
Tuners and up close with no string on Tuners and a clear image of the peg bending when a string is attached Various shots (yes I just got me a camera off ebay cheap!!) of the tuners bushings that came in the pack, so which one do I choose and will they help this bend? ?? Do I choose the tall or the short ones? Instructions are terrible, really bad english and no mention of the bushing How they are height adjustable, is to hard to explain, its screw type situation and as you can see in my photos I have adjusted them height wise to acommodate for string strees (which is why they are height adjustable).
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 10:22:20 GMT -5
RG, I see the problem – your headstock appears to be held together with an elastic band. I suppose that if you place a tuner and bushing together outside of, but next to, the headstock, you may get an idea – based on the thickness of the headstock – of which bushing will do. I would think that the ones most similar in height to the old ones would do nicely … they were of adequate depth in that application. But I am not sure about that. Whichever you use, I think I recall you writing that the new bushings are slightly wider than the existing hole, so it seems that a little bit of reaming will be required. I wonder if any of these conversion bushings may eliminate the need for you to ream out the headstock. Or are they the same size (width) as the new ones? D2o P.S. Yes, I know we are across the pond – just something to chew on is all. store.guitarfetish.com/vitucobu.htmlwww.stewmac.com/shopby/item/3458
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 21, 2010 11:54:17 GMT -5
The elastic band is holding the strings up which are not attached to the tuners, they were annoying me.
I don't get this at all, the tuners fit through the hole at the minute right....so why do I need to use the bushing that came with the tuner?
Why are there a deeper and shallower set?
The shallower set are the same depth as the original bushings that are still fitted.
I can get hold of conversion bushings easy enough from England, however whats the point of the aren't gonna stop this post bending shennanigan???
I don't even know why I'd need the conversion bushing since my tuning pegs fit fine? I don't get it.
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 12:14:50 GMT -5
Different styles / brands of tuners can be of different sizes, and may require different sized holes or different sized bushings.
You’d think if the existing bushing fits, it should work – right? … yet the conversion bushings are commonly mentioned in connection with those tuners.
You say you don’t get why it’s not working, and I think that before you ream out the hole, there should be some good evidence that the new bushings will fix your problem.
Have you taken a tuner (off of the guitar), and slipped both an existing bushing as well as a new bushings on to try to get a feel for why the existing bushing isn’t cutting it?
The new bushing shouldn’t be an overly tight fit, but it may be a different fit ...
What are your observations?
D2o
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 12:17:00 GMT -5
... and I was kidding about the elastic band ... I guess I could have put a smilie there to show I was kidding ... ... knucklehead! D2o
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 21, 2010 13:29:06 GMT -5
Different styles / brands of tuners can be of different sizes, and may require different sized holes or different sized bushings. You’d think if the existing bushing fits, it should work – right? … yet the conversion bushings are commonly mentioned in connection with those tuners. You say you don’t get why it’s not working, and I think that before you ream out the hole, there should be some good evidence that the new bushings will fix your problem. Have you taken a tuner (off of the guitar), and slipped both an existing bushing as well as a new bushings on to try to get a feel for why the existing bushing isn’t cutting it? The new bushing shouldn’t be an overly tight fit, but it may be a different fit ... What are your observations? D2o Yes I expected it to work man, however it don't!!!! I'll measure things tonight, I'm pretty sure my post diameter is 8mm so I'll measure the outer diameter of the bushing and see what I get. I have not noticed any difference slipping old bushings over the new tuners in comparison to the new bushings (both sets). Its doing my head right in!! I thought you was joking with the elastic band comment!! But I wasn't sure so I cleared it up for you!!
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 13:46:49 GMT -5
Okay, RG - measure away! Howeve, FWIW, see this dude’s post – sounds like he had the same issue you are having. Cheers, D2o
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 21, 2010 13:51:13 GMT -5
Your A legend D2o!!! amazing!!! However does this mean I can get the conversion bushings or not? Or I have to use the supplied sets? Which set? there are two!!!!
How do I reem? aaaahhhgggg!!!
No I'm ok honest!! Thanks for that D2o
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 13:54:55 GMT -5
Your A legend D2o!!! amazing!!! However does this mean I can get the conversion bushings or not? Or I have to use the supplied sets? Which set? there are two!!!! How do I reem? aaaahhhgggg!!! No I'm ok honest!! Thanks for that D2o My pleasure, RG. Edit: Just to be on the safe side The supplied set will be fine - I'm not sure it matter which depth you use ... the shorties match the old ones, but (I would presume that) the longer ones would be more stable. Have you reemed before? … I ask because there are two things that are not that difficult: - a good reem job (newey?! a little censorship here please …) - splitting a headstock while doing a quick and dirty reem job.
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 17:02:17 GMT -5
(newey?! a little censorship here please ...) newey, I only just noticed your edited post (advising of deletions) in the other thread - the above was not a jab at you, at all, my friend. D2o
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Post by newey on Jun 21, 2010 22:36:24 GMT -5
D2o- SG did the editing, I just did the woodshedding! And I'll only jump on you this time for misspelling "ream" . . .
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2010 23:00:41 GMT -5
Galdangit!
If you look at my previous posts, I started out spelling it correctly and then I saw another spelling and second-guessed myself.
kyle!
... and I'm sure I'll do it again!
D2o
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 22, 2010 10:34:15 GMT -5
Na I'm not into reeming lol No sorry bout that, I've never reemed before so it would be first go. I smell money that may need to go to my local Hungarian (yes that right kids) luthier!!! DAM THIS!! I was surprised I was even able to intall the tuners and I would like to give reeming a go, I've tackled most things and succeeded, so gimme some info on it??? Tools ect
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 22, 2010 10:50:10 GMT -5
Was toot lazy to measure the holes in my headstock so I measured the bushings that came with the tuners and they are 8.5mm, which means the holes already in my headstock are smaller!!! So I'd need to reem 8.5mm holes. The posts that are on the old tuners are around 6.2mm or something like that.
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Post by D2o on Jun 22, 2010 14:59:43 GMT -5
Na I'm not into reeming lol No sorry bout that, I've never reemed before so it would be first go. I smell money that may need to go to my local Hungarian (yes that right kids) luthier!!! DAM THIS!! I was surprised I was even able to intall the tuners and I would like to give reeming a go, I've tackled most things and succeeded, so gimme some info on it??? Tools ect RG, Cynical1 is the man to talk to about that. For the correct method, see his input here. In a pinch, setting the drill in reverse - so that you are boring, not drilling* - and using gradually increasing drill bits to bore only as deep as the required depth of the bushing could also do the job (edit: I mean slim “twist drill” type bits, not “spade” type bits intended for wood). *"drilling" (drill set forward) can cause the drill bit to catch and bust a headstock wide open ... which is unlikely to happen while "boring" (drill set in reverse) I'd rather see you do it the right way, though. My advice is to seek assistance from cynical1. D2o
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 23, 2010 9:37:08 GMT -5
I'm starting to think I'm out of my depth..............I checked reamers and they're expensive, I could prob pay my local guy to do it for the price of the reamer, or else cleverly sand a hole large enough using sand paper rapped around a drill bit (as I did for something else and can't remember what). I wouldn't wanna mess up my headstock though.
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Post by D2o on Jun 23, 2010 9:52:28 GMT -5
I'm starting to think I'm out of my depth..............I checked reamers and they're expensive, I could prob pay my local guy to do it for the price of the reamer, or else cleverly sand a hole large enough using sand paper rapped around a drill bit (as I did for something else and can't remember what). I wouldn't wanna mess up my headstock though. RG You have reminded me of something that is potentially quite important. When I was speaking of the reverse-drill boring, I was speaking of using slim “twist drill” type bits, not “spade” type bits intended for wood. Having said that, again I do not recommend reverse-drill boring … it’s something to remember when you’re all out of other options and need to go all MacGyver. I don't think I would want to use that sand paper idea.I am glad that you have recognized that there is no harm in seeing your local luthier! You can learn something cool another day, when the stakes aren’t quite so high. D2o
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Post by rabidgerry on Jun 23, 2010 10:11:31 GMT -5
there is harm seeing my local luthier.........to my wallet!! I hate not being able to do stuff myself but sure there ya go!! Thanks for your help anyways.
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