|
|
Post by enquirydave on Jul 6, 2010 17:00:38 GMT -5
I have a solidbody Warmoth Telecaster with forearm and tummy contours that is too heavy, as it weighs in at 5.5 Lbs !
What are the best options in routing some wood out of the back to lessen the load?
|
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Jul 6, 2010 17:47:08 GMT -5
Hmmm...there are a few options depending on how comfortable you feel with routers and making templates.
Just a few questions first...
Does it have a finish currently?
Are you concerned with preserving or matching the original finish?
Were you looking to make this a semi-hollow body, or just route chambers and cover them?
If yes to the semi-hollow body idea, do you have access to a planer?
Would you want to also route some additional control cavity space?
What type of wood are we talking about? (Obviously not poplar...)
What is the assortment or arsenal of tools you have to work with?
How would you rate your comfort level with power tools and surgery on guitar bodies?
There's a few easy ways to go, but I'd like to have a little information before we break out the word processor...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
|
|
|
|
Post by enquirydave on Jul 7, 2010 5:52:18 GMT -5
The body is Mahogany and my brother who is a joiner will be doing the routing and he has all the tools necessary for the job.
The guitar is finished but I am thinking of cutting out chambers and covering them.
The body has been routed already at front as it is a Tele Thinline 72
Solidbody guitar, custom made by Warmoth and control cavity routed by my brother. It has a Tummy cut and Forearm cut.
How many chambers would be routed to reduce weight to under 4lbs?
|
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Jul 7, 2010 9:12:21 GMT -5
Well, if your brother is a joiner then the sky's the limit...almost... Just to preface all this, keep in mind that when you route these chambers you're going to change the balance of the guitar. Getting too extreme may make the guitar neck heavy. Now for the interesting part. Your guitar body weighs 5.5 pounds, or 2495 grams. You want to get down to under 4 pounds...lets say 3.75 pounds. This means we shed 1.75 pounds, or 794 grams. Mahogany varies greatly depending on the type, and the individual piece. Let me elaborate: | Wood - seasoned & dry | | | kg/cu.m
| |
|
| Mahogany ( Honduras ) | | | 545 (1201.5 pounds) | | Mahogany ( African ) | | | 495 - 850 (1091.3 - 1873.9 pounds) |
or, if my math holds at 1 cubic meter = 61,023.744 095 cubic inch | Wood - seasoned & dry | | | ounces/cu.in
| |
|
| Mahogany ( Honduras ) | | | .315 | | Mahogany ( African ) | | | .286 - .491 |
So, if you want to remove 1.75 pounds, or 28 ounces, then you're looking at removing approximately 57 to 98 cubic inches. Your guitar is probably somewhere between 425 to 500 cubic inches total, so that ain't too bad... If I had more time before I catch a train I'd get more involved, but a cavity route should stay within these locations, omitting the routing behind the bridge:  If it were me, and I was just planning on capping the routed sections, I'd step the routed sections and glue a wood cap, similar to the step routing on a trem or control cavity. Like this:  You either go cheap and use plastic to cover the cavity (effective but tacky), or use alder or ash and paint the back (effective if the back is already painted), or use mahogany and blend into existing finish...or, if you want to real froggy find some zebra or sepele wood and make them stand out. All of these are a matter of opinion and they're completely up to you. I'm traveling today, so I'll catch you tomorrow with any questions. Happy Trails Cynical One EDIT: Almost forgot...stay out of the existing control cavity as this can make shielding your guitar a bit more problematic. |
|
