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Post by naturalborn on Sept 10, 2010 16:24:25 GMT -5
Cheers guys, I'll review my wiring and I'll borrow a multimeter. I'll hopefully get it sorted within the next few days.
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 15, 2010 11:01:14 GMT -5
Wiring reviewed, I had burnt the output jack wire with the soldering iron. I must have just caught it but its definitely that. Are these cables easily replaced or would it be easier to get a new jack?
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Post by wolf on Sept 15, 2010 14:30:26 GMT -5
I'd say it would be easy enough to replace the wiring. I'd suggest that you don't use shielded cable and just use 2 regular wires. Yes, I know shielded cable reduces hum but if it's only a short distance inside a shielded guitar cavity, it shouldn't produce any problems.
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 15, 2010 17:25:39 GMT -5
Ah thanks, I'd prefer to use one big shielded cable as it makes it easier to fit it in without more wires getting in the way, the cavity is rather crowded.
Anyone know where I can find a replacement wire or if there is a specific kind required? I'm having trouble finding a good place to order from on google.
I only have circuit wire spare so that would cover grounding + the live if needed to
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 15, 2010 17:44:27 GMT -5
Any two wires will work. You could twist, tape, or cable-tie them together if you want. That or hack any spare shielded cable you've got laying around. You may want to keep all of your guitar cables, but look around. Those red-white-yellow sets of RCA cables that come with VCRs and DVD players tend to pile up in most households and would work fine. Or maybe you've got an old pair of cheap headphones/earbuds you don't need? Those are a little small, and sometimes not even real wire, but it might work, and if it's just taking up space in a junk drawer or something it's worth a shot.
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 15, 2010 17:57:30 GMT -5
that sounds like a good idea to me, thanks for that I'll nick some shielding instead then
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 28, 2010 13:13:30 GMT -5
I've completely re-done the wiring a couple times, borrowed a multimeter and its still not working. Its the same problem still, it has to be a fault in the diagram as there are no faults in the wires. To get my soldering double checked, I consulted an electronic technician who said it was fine and couldn't find a fault. I'm confident that its exact.
Volume and tone pots are working but nothing else is, just a hum is all I get. I'm not really sure why
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Post by JohnH on Sept 28, 2010 15:40:04 GMT -5
i suggest disconnecting the 5 way, see reply 29. Then see if you can at least get the single coil working with the push/pull switch and the pots
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 28, 2010 16:28:52 GMT -5
Sorry I forgot to meantion that. I did try that and there was no difference.
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Post by JohnH on Sept 28, 2010 18:25:14 GMT -5
Sorry I forgot to meantion that. I did try that and there was no difference. In that case, the whole quad-rail and 5-way complicated part is eliminated from the main problem, and you can search for a simple problem in the output, tone and volume wiring. EDIT: further on that: With the 5-way disconnected by removing the red output wire from it, and p/p switch pushed in, there’ll be no output. You can measure the resistance across the leads of the neck pickup, probably 5-8k depending on what it is. Now pull the pp switch, and the neck pup should work. With all knobs at max, the resistance across a guitar cord plugged into the jack should be slightly less than that of the neck pup alone, since it has the volume pot in parallel. (eg, with a 6K pup, you would expect to read about 5.9k) If you read a very low resistance, you have a short circuit between hot and ground, somewhere in the pot and input wiring. A very high resistance indicates a disconnection or open circuit. A resistance equal to the pot value shows the pup is not connected, but the volume pot is. If it was working, then turning the volume pot slowly down will result in a rise then fall of overall resistance, with a maximum slightly more than ¼ of the volume pot value. At no time should turning the tone pot make a change to resistance – since the dc meter current is blocked by the tone cap. There you go! Things to try! John
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Post by naturalborn on Sept 29, 2010 15:11:02 GMT -5
Cheers I'll give that a go when I borrow a multimeter again.
Is it possible that the output wire is simply isn't able to carry enough charge to power everything? I'm using CTS 1 meg pots which are going to suck some power and the motherbucker is definitely far higher output than usual. Would changing the output wire to a higher grade be a wise idea?
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Post by JohnH on Sept 29, 2010 15:47:27 GMT -5
In a guitar, wire is wire. All it needs to be is connected to the right things, not broken, nor short circuited to something it shouldn't. Thickness and type make no difference to if it works
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Post by naturalborn on Oct 6, 2010 8:42:15 GMT -5
I'm having a long wait for a multimeter so I think I'll try simplifying the circuit for now and see how it all sounds then re-do the current wiring when the multimeter gets here, I just want to do a sound test of the pickups/killswitch etc
I was thinking of taking it all down to a 3 way switch with full motherbucker on one setting, and single coil on the other. Also this time, the killswitch connect from the very start (last time I wanted to get the circuit working before rigging that in but I can't see how a 3way won't work). Complete circuit would be 3way, volume pot, tone pot and kill switch.
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