Boost Pedal Recommendations

[rabidgerry]

Hi, I am looking for a new boost switch but I'm sure as to the type I should be chasing after.

I want a booster which will colour the sound in a good way and increase saturation and gain of a preamp, and can be switched off to a true bypass so I can use it on and off for more gain - the booster will go before my preamp

I dunno what the hell types of booster I need for this job

I bought an LPB1 and this added tonnes of extra saturation which I wanted but it was all too bassy!! Way too bassy!! So therefore useless to me less I put it at the end of my chain for level boost that way, which I don't need

hit me with the type of boost pedals I should be after guys?

I see Brian May boosts around the place but I'm not sure if thats what I need or not

I see treble boosts and mid boosts too but still not really sure which is best for my needs.

[JohnH]

How about a graphic EQ pedal? You could set it for what ever tone adjustment you want, plus an overall boost in level.

I've not tried them myself however.

John

[ashcatlt]

This is going to be a matter of taste and also of your other gear.  For what I do with my boost (Boss HyperFuzz), I prefer to have it roll off the highs just a touch when I kick it on.  Keeps it from getting too buzzy or splatty with those extra harmonics from the amp.  It's almost like the difference between a single coil and an HB - except it's already an HB.  But maybe that's not what you want, or maybe your stuff would react differently.

I was also going to suggest an EQ pedal (I know you had one) but only if it's got a master volume with some boost to it.  I worry about just push most or all of the individual bands up as there's often some weirdness in the in-betweens.  But then, we also know that your EQ is not true bypass (though we've discussed some options there) and that leads to a question.

Why does this boost have to be true bypass?  Is there going to be a buffered device before this pedal in your chain?  Otherwise, when you turn the TB booster off, the cable between the guitar and amp (or next active stage) effectively gets longer and more capacitive, and sucks more tone.

Anyway, the LPB1- as I understand - is supposed to be a relatively flat boost.  It shouldn't be adding much bass.  Either something else in your chain is doing something funny, or it just sounds bassier because it's louder overall (see Fletcher-Munson et al).  Of course, if it doesn't sound good to you, it doesn't really matter why.  A smaller capacitor going into or out of the effect would cut some bass, would be a fairly simple mod, and might not even require any re-wiring of the board itself.

Just some ideas.  I haven't tried many of the other boosts out there so I can't make recommendations.  I'll say, though, that these are all very simple circuits and make great first time DIY pedals.  A breadboard and a very few components would allow you to experiment till you find exactly what you want.

[rabidgerry]

Ok as we know I have been using an EQ pedal for the job and yes its nice, but it can't be turned off really even with all sliders down its colouring and I don't want that I want it completely off and this is why T bypass is important. I'm probably not doing the conventional here by boosting a MFX preamp sim but I get results I like (really like) so I'm keen to continue but with only one external pedal rather than two, so this is another reason why I just don't get a looper pedal and stick the EQ pedal turned on, in that loop and use the looper to bypass.

I LPB1 just sounds bassy but its boosting flat response alright, nothing weird at all with it.

I'd like to build a dedicated boost if I can but they are quite expensive and I know not the correct sorta boost I need. This is one I have saw but I don't know what Germanium is or a Dallas Range Booster or whether its trebel I need boosted or not??

www.buildyourownclone.com/triboost.html

[rabidgerry]

Yes I read somewhere there is a capacitor change that can turn an LPB1 into a EHX Screaming Bird but I couldn't be bothered searching for this cap and it probably would be a rip off forking out for one individial cap and just too much bother.

[ijustwannastrat]

That circuit makes you CHOOSE between the three modes, but I want ALL three at the same time.... Or mix and match two.... 3 toggles?

[rabidgerry]

What benefit would having all three on at once achieve? I don't know what the hell they are in the first place so I dunno what they're suppossed to do.

I know one is a clean boost. I get the impression there is a frequency toggle of sorts on there but it is vague in the description as it doesn't say it works for all three circuits or what ever.

[thetragichero]

wow that's way pricey... you should try this and modify it with a rotary switch to choose between different clipping diodes:
www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/TweakO/TweakO.htm
www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=4

i used a 4-way rotary switch to select between: 2 Ge diodes (sym), 2 LED (asym... used different colours), 1 LED 1 Si 1 Ge (asym), 2 Si (sym)
gives a nice variety in sound (and i think my rotary switch is defective, since i get different sounds in between selecetions.... free bonus tones!), and i think total cost was less than 50$ (that's including me replacing all of the resistors with carbon comp and capacitors with mallory 150 series)

it's worth a try, a fun project, and a nice little pedal (not true bypass but whatev)

[ashcatlt]

The cap that would need to change in the LPB1 will be either the one going into the pedal, or the one coming out. You want a value smaller than what's there now to increase the cutoff frequency of the high-pass filter it creates. Thanks to the fact that capacitance gets smaller as you put caps in series (the same as resistors in parallel) you won't have to replace anything, just put another cap in line between the switch and the circuit board. Of course, that assumes that the switch isn't soldered directly to the board!

So, which end should it go on? If it goes on the input, it will roll off the lows before they get to the gain stage, which will open up headroom and allow you to get more boost before it starts to overdrive itself. I think that's where I'd put it, but maybe you like that little extra grit from when the LPB starts to bang its own rails. Then put it on the output, to roll of the lows after the gain stage has done its thing.

You don't have to identify any parts except to figure out which wires from the switch go to the input or output (whichever you've chosen) of the board. Knowing the value of the existing caps will help somewhat to give an educated guess as to what value you need to add, but we could probably come up with some ballpark values to get started with. Caps are extremely cheap and you can experiment with different values (and placement, for that matter) without even opening the pedal.

I'm going to ask again, though, do you have a buffer before this booster, or are you willing to accept treble loss when it's bypassed?

[rabidgerry]

here is what caps I heard need changed

"It says I can turn it into a treble booster by simply changing the values of the C1 capacitor (which in the schematic is 0.1uf) and the R2 resistor (which is 43kOhms). Seems easy enough for a first project. It's a very cheap pedal and I already have one."

I'm going to sell my LPB1 though as I cant be bothered trying to get the parts, like I said it would probably be more trouble than its worth.

I don't use a buffer and don't know what this is really. Normally I plug straight into the MFX unit so I don't see why I'd need a buffer. Adding a true bypass boost in my mind would have equated to:

boost on: guitar > Boost > MFX

boost off: guitar > boost bypass > MFX

I don't see how I'd loose trebel, I thought the whole bypass thing was so no negative effects are felt when the pedal is off.

So now I need a buffer? Jeez this is all a bit crazy, that would mean I'm better off with a EQ pedal then without a true bypass which have a buffer like the Boss GE-7 or Behringer equivilent.

[ijustwannastrat]

Long effects chains, even if they are all true bypass, will suck your tone. Ever use a 100' extension chord to power a microwave? Similar~ish effect.

[ashcatlt]

Oct 21, 2010 3:59:44 GMT -5 rabidgerry said:

boost on: guitar > Boost > MFX

boost off: guitar > boost bypass > MFX

Ah, but that ain't exactly true, now is it? Here's what your pickups will "see":
boost on: guitar > CABLE > Boost
boost off: guitar > CABLE > boost bypass >CABLE > MFX

The first active stage is the end of the road as far as the circuit that includes your guitar. It's the capacitance of the cable that sucks the treble out. With the booster in true bypass, the pickups see twice as much cable, and therefore loose more treble.

It's a common misconeception. TB pedals are indicated for folks that run very long pedal chains and spend a significant amount of time with most of them off. You know, those guys with 8 different OD/fuzz boxes so they can get exactly the right tone for every note. Running through that many buffers might start to add noise and possibly lose some treble or bass or both. So you put a buffer at the front of the chain, TB the rest. If it's a particularly long chain, or a long run to the amp from the pedalboard, you might even put another buffer at the end of the chain.

Of course, it's not an issue if you've got a guitar with active circuitry but somehow I didn't get the impression that you did. If so, I'm sorry, disregard this whole thing.


On the other point: Turning the thing into a treble booster and removing a bit of bass on the way in or out are two different things. My suggestion does not involve modifying the circuit board at all. Well, unless the switch is soldered directly to the board. I can see just wanting to have something that works out of the box, though.

[rabidgerry]

oK point taken, but I'm not worried about trebel loss with my strat so I'm prepared to see what it will be like on its own. If anything I have trebel to spare.

So back to the boost suggestions, am I after a mid boost or a trebel boost? Or do I just get the wee Behringer PB100 Preamp Booster since this has a buffer in it??

Still mystified as to what sorta boost I be needing.

On my Boss GT I got a boost pedal module, which I put at the front of the chain, i think it mymics an old boss booster pedal.

When I put this at the front of my chain I get great results.

Why don't a use this then? Cause the external effect loop is in this module also and I need the external option for the attachment of a better noise gate than the onboard boss noise gate.

[flateric]

I would recommend you put together a very quick and easy circuit on Vero, the AMZ Mosfet Boost. It gives a great boost and is pretty clean, you can build it and mod it really easily, it will be very cheap.

[rabidgerry]

Ok I bypassed making anything, and took a risk which has paid off, I came across this pedal on a few occassions but I didn't think it was anywhere near what I was after, just thought it was a overdrive pedal. Turns out it can be a clean boost with gain at zero.

Anways it can act as a dirty boost too if you add some gain, and play with it trebel and bass controls. And yes a tone altering boost was what I was after and this bad boy give me that and other options!!

here it is



its actually astounding on its own and playing it infront of amp sim preamps for more gain and that extra spongey saturation feel is excellent, just like the my onboard GT-6 processor booster (which remember kids I have to leave vacant and set to external so I can put a decimator in there). It sings a bit more than the onboard one however.

Its solid metal and apparently a clean on the Klon Centaur, which I dunno what that is. But I know this PD-01 if soooooooo good and I got mine for a real good price in perect conditon. Someone has since told me that since this pedal is now discontinued it has become highly saught after!!!

[ashcatlt]

Glad you found something you like!

Course you know what this means? You're gonna have to post some demos over in Sound Samples.

[rabidgerry]

Dam!!! I've never done any demos for this site!! I shall get round to it. I have difficulty recording my actual set up to be honest, I usually cheat and use amplitube (but that don't really got my sound). Neither does direct in and I'm embarrassed to put something cr_p up!!!

I swear I will get some sounds up at some point.

I am going to build an isolation cabinet for my little practice set up at home, this will save allot of hassle, ES-57 in front of the amp on a tiny tripod stand and of I got!!! Hopefully!!

[cynical1]

I've been toying with the idea of an iso box myself...like I need another project...

I found this link that describes a pretty handy take on the theme:

DIY Speaker Cabinet Isolation Box

HTC1

[rabidgerry]

I like that design its very good. I may make that in future for recording one of my bigger amps.

What I'm after at the minute though doesn't record such a large box. However I will use this as a guide!! Excellent!! You know Peavy sell a cabinet for the same thing for s ridiculous price!!!

[JFrankParnell]

Nov 8, 2010 12:22:10 GMT -5 cynical1 said:

I've been toying with the idea of an iso box myself...like I need another project...

I found this link that describes a pretty handy take on the theme:

DIY Speaker Cabinet Isolation Box

HTC1

that last picture reminds me of our chest freezer that we have outside. Betcha you find a free old fridge or freezer that could be made into an iso box

[ashcatlt]

Keep in mind that the "acoustic" foam stuff is only any use at relatively high frquencies. The bulk of the guitar's tone will pass right through. Some of it will be absorbed by the mdf, some will pass through that and end up outside the box where you don't want it. The rest will bounce around inside the box, possibly causing unwanted phase interference.

This converted refrigerator has relatively thick rigid fiberglass insulation panels. These have some meaningful mass and will do a much better job absorbing that low end. Less will get out, and less will bounce around inside.

[cynical1]

I would have to respectfully disagree with an old refrigerator over an MDF box in regards to limiting the amount of sound that would escape. While neither solution will completely eliminate sound, especially bass, from leaking out, I would have reservations about vibration caused by all the undampened metal in the refrigerator.

MDF is more dense then particle board, and we used 1-1/2" high density particle boards in bass cabinets as backboards for years because it killed any unwanted vibration or resonance....so 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" MDF ought to do the trick.

I would make a few design improvements to the link I put up earlier.

First off, considering that if I did build one of these behemoths the odds are that once it was built I wouldn't be moving it again, so the casters would go. My preference would be rubber machine vibration dampening mounts T-Nutted into the box, like these:



And I agree, the foam by itself is not effective enough. Under the foam I'd probably go with some Owens Corning rigid foam, like this:



...then lay some acoustic insulation over that, like this stuff:



...and then put the dimpled foam on.

This should allow you to crank loud enough without waking the cat in the other room...

Either way, or whatever design you use, you're still going to have to EQ or tweak the sound, play with different mics and mic placement to get the best sound. These things are really only designed to protect your hearing and keep the cops away from your door during recording.

Happy Trails

Cynical One