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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 1:25:23 GMT -5
ok lets say i want to build a custom fx pedal box with 3 different fx 1st. is a distortion/overdrive, 2nd is a treble booster 3rd is a chorus. now that i've stated what i want to do i'll ask the questions, 1st copying actual pedals and installing how do i connect the 3fx as a chain??? 2nd can all 3 fx be powered on all together by just 2 9v batteries??? 3rd would installing cooling fans cause interference in the electronic signal??? 4th what is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow???
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Post by sumgai on Mar 9, 2011 3:06:10 GMT -5
sb,
The only part of that which I can easily answer is:
The average airspeed of an unladed swallow is 24mph. The fastest swallow ever measured hit 107.5mph.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 4:18:50 GMT -5
sb, The only part of that which I can easily answer is: The average airspeed of an unladed swallow is 24mph. The fastest swallow ever measured hit 107.5mph. HTH sumgai wow 107.5mph thats impressive for such a small bird |
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Post by newey on Mar 9, 2011 7:05:59 GMT -5
Swallows aside,
1) You would connect them internally just like a patch chord connected them externally. Pos. and neg. output of the first one connect to pos and neg input of the second, etc.
2) They could be powered by a single 9V battery, but battery life might not be so hot if you used all 3 at once a lot of the time. 2 batteries would give more life. They need to be connected in parallel to maintain the 9 volts.
3) Fans can indeed generate electrical noise. They shouldn't be needed unless there are tubes involved.
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Mar 9, 2011 10:31:30 GMT -5
sb, The only part of that which I can easily answer is: The average airspeed of an unladed swallow is 24mph. The fastest swallow ever measured hit 107.5mph. HTH Whoa, two things: Since that 24mph is an average, does that mean that alot of birds go fraction of a MPH? Second, would that be a European Swallow, or the larger African Swallow? sumgai |
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 9, 2011 12:20:35 GMT -5
Of course then you're stuck with this three effects in this order forever. I personally need to be able to repatch into different configurations for different tracks.
If one was clever and used some switched jacks, he could set it up to where it defaulted to one specific config, but maintained the flexibility to change the order or add in other effects in the middle of the chain.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 12:34:01 GMT -5
@ijustwannastrat that would be the european swallow (provided theres no cocanuts involved) as the african swallow is non migratory. @ ash, how would you go about doing that in the wiring (still keeping them in a hardwired chain but able to plugin others inbetween). @ newey, using 2 battery snaps (A&B) would that be +A to pedal, and -A to +B with -B to the pedal?
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Post by Yew on Mar 9, 2011 13:26:55 GMT -5
What about Two european swallows with a coconut tied between them?
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 13:54:57 GMT -5
What about Two european swallows with a coconut tied between them? still the swallow to coconut weight ratio isn't right there'd have to be 4 swallows |
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Post by JFrankParnell on Mar 9, 2011 14:21:31 GMT -5
What is your favorite color?
What if you built them all in the same box, but had jacks for each? then, a few shorty cables could patch them all in whatever order you like today, and also help you trouble shoot if/when things go wrong. And/or, I havent thought this thru, but the jacks could be internally hooked up inside, but when you stick patch cords in them, they would follow the patch cord order. I'm not explaining this well. But the right type of switching jacks could prolly do this.
edit: uhh... what Ashcat said.
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Post by JohnH on Mar 9, 2011 14:28:50 GMT -5
You could make such a multifx by buying some some 2nd hand Behringer or other cheap pedals. Chuck out the cases and cheap jacks and switches, and the underlying circuits are quite good. Then mount in a new metal case and wire up with good new jacks and stomp switches.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 14:43:23 GMT -5
@ jfrank thats a good idea just need a diagram or a quick A to B description on the wires @johnhh thats an even better idea but i chose the dod death metal pedal as my distortion i've already got the pedal but donot wish to disassemble in that manner so i'll just be cloning it as far as the other fx it's off to the pawn shops and music stores Yew now a single african swallow could easily carry it if it grips it by the husk |
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 14:48:56 GMT -5
What is your favorite color? |
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Post by sumgai on Mar 9, 2011 16:08:01 GMT -5
No, No, No!!!  How many times do I gotta tell ya, you spit aside. Now try it again, and keep trying until you get it right! |
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 9, 2011 17:45:19 GMT -5
jfrank - that's an excellent idea! Of course then you're stuck with this three effects in this order forever. I personally need to be able to repatch into different configurations for different tracks. If one was clever and used some switched jacks, he could set it up to where it defaulted to one specific config, but maintained the flexibility to change the order or add in other effects in the middle of the chain.  sb - If nobody else comes through I'll work something out for you when I get to a real computer. For now I'd like to warn you that the Death Metal is a fairly complex circuit. Not saying anything, just saying that if you're having trouble working out the jack wiring you might find yourself in way over your head pretty quick. |
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Post by JFrankParnell on Mar 9, 2011 17:59:39 GMT -5
hahaha, yeah Ash, I edited!
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Post by Yew on Mar 9, 2011 18:02:23 GMT -5
Maybe a scratch built op-amp circuit could be a simpler solution?
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 21:25:59 GMT -5
ash my uncles an electritain by profession so if i have any major problems i can always ask him for help but for the most part i like the trial an error route but i try to get as much info as possible before i start so i know at least something about the project. i find it better to know before you start than to dive in clueless and potentially ruin all of the parts in the process
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 9, 2011 22:24:35 GMT -5
Okay, well let's back up a minute. @ijustwannastrat that would be the european swallow (provided theres no cocanuts involved) as the african swallow is non migratory. @ ash, how would you go about doing that in the wiring (still keeping them in a hardwired chain but able to plugin others inbetween). @ newey, using 2 battery snaps (A&B) would that be +A to pedal, and -A to +B with -B to the pedal? No, this puts the batteries in series, and gives a total of 18V across the circuit. This might work, but it gets close to the max voltage for some opamps, and you'd have to spec your caps accordingly. Also, if your circuit depends on opamp clipping (I think the Death Metal probably does) the higher supply voltage will work against you. To wire them in parallel you'd connect the two batteries' like ends (+ to +...) and then take that out to your pedal. That worries me, though, and I'd wait for somebody else to confirm that this won't explode the batteries. I honestly don't think you'd need more than one battery. If you can do without LEDs, that's almost always what eats the most juice. Me, I'd install a DC input jack and some simple power filtering and be done. Now, here's a switched jack:  but I think this one is a little easier to visualize:  This one happens to be TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve). Some people call it a Stereo Jack, but that really depends on how you wire it. You won't need but one TRS jack, but you could use them for all the jacks. This has a total of 6 solder lugs. The three on the far side (can't see em in the photo) connect to the three strips of metal coming over the top. These contact the plug when inserted. Closest to us will touch the Sleeve, Next would be Ring (which will contact the shield of a standard TS guitar cable) and then you'll have Tip. The 3 lugs on this side are the switched contacts. With no plug inserted, the metal strips touch those and electricity can flow back and forth between this side and the other. Inserting the plug lifts those strips enough to where the connection is broken. Now, as I said, we only actually need one TRS jack for the main input. This will be used to turn off the pedal and save battery - or milliwatts off your electric bill if you go the wallwart route. This jack also doesn't need to be switched. Nor do any of the output jacks. You could use switched TRS jacks for all of them, if that's what you got handy, you just won't use all the lugs. Here's my idea, using the minimum jack required in each position:  Note that plugging into input B or C breaks the chain at that point. The chain still functions before and after. Plugging into an Out jack does not break the chain. You can actually use this to tap off the outputs of each circuit (with whatever came before it) to seperate effects or even different amplifiers. |
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 9, 2011 22:30:58 GMT -5
BTW:  This doesn't include the DOD bypass switch logic circuit. You don't want to mess with that anyway! I think this would be an okay place for true-bypass of each of the pedals. If you decide on a Master Bypass you might want a buffer, but we can work that out. |
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 23:39:49 GMT -5
on your switch ring jack diagram which wire is + & which is -. i cant read schematics but i'm trying to learn maybe my uncle could help out there, the hardest part for me is understanding schematics i grew up on diagrams because they were much easier for people to under stand maybe if you could show side by side pix of a simple circuit diagram and its schematic i could learn through comparison
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 9, 2011 23:50:27 GMT -5
Mine is meant to be a diagram.
The - of all three circuits go together where it says "Chassis/Circuit" grounds. Battery - goes where indicated, though now that I think of it, it requires you to plug something into A In for it to get power. Audio "+" for each circuit will be the red wires. Battery + has nothing to do with these jacks and is not shown.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 9, 2011 23:54:33 GMT -5
ash i just got an idea, how would you go about wiring a rechargable 9.6volt rc battery to the pedal boards i can purchase both the battery+charger and a set of connection tabs for around $6 the're that cheap because no'one really buys them c'ept me i know there good batteries cause i use them on all of my airsoft rifles but would rather buy a designated battery so i'm not dissplacing one all the time would hate to show up to a skirmish and not have batteries in the gun, or vice versa
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 11, 2011 10:24:28 GMT -5
so ash going by what you said on my mini amp thread would my battery mod work for this or will i need something higher do to it having 3 boards to power instead of 1
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Post by JFrankParnell on Mar 11, 2011 12:21:34 GMT -5
got an url for these batteries and charger? RC or airsoft?
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 11, 2011 12:44:15 GMT -5
no but you could try radioshack.com since thats were the batteries and their connectors are gonna come from its just one red wire and one black installation is easy but the real need to know is will it effectivly power all 3 at once or will i need more voltage. because i have a wire tap rig to run 2 rc batteries in series so i could go with two 7.2volt batteries for a total 14.4volts but is that within the safe limits for the boards or maybe a power regulator circuit tha will limit the amount of power used
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 11, 2011 13:02:58 GMT -5
i tried going on the psp and got no futher than the home page and it required more memory than my system had to view it but i think it'll be under either batteries and power or hobbies and do it your self
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Post by JFrankParnell on Mar 11, 2011 13:47:15 GMT -5
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 11, 2011 14:01:45 GMT -5
You don't need more voltage for more pedals, but more current. The battery will drain down a bit faster than with just one, but should work fine.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Mar 11, 2011 15:03:29 GMT -5
thanks ash well at that price i could just get multiple batteries to counter the drainage by periodic switching. or what about adding another stomp switch installing 2 batts and when 1's low just stomp the switch to use the other. im almost tempted to just plug in the charger but i'm unsure of what it'll do, don't want to ruin anything by not knowing
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