strathead
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Post by strathead on Jun 19, 2005 20:59:39 GMT -5
Hey guys, that GuitarNuts site was great, and nice to have a forum available also!
I have a couple of (probably stupid) question's, but . . .
1 - When wiring together the grounds (pickups/output jack/tone cap), I gather they are soldered onto a ring terminal and the ring terminal is then placed around one of the pots . . . would that be correct?
2 - I attached a copper shield to the back of the pickguard with spray glue, and also covered the pickup/control cavety's with spray glue applied copper . Is there a problem if some of the glue got on top of the copper and do I have to solder all the seams?
3 - Is it absolutely necessary to have shielded cable from the output jack? As I don't have any and don't no where to get it.
Thanks,
John
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Post by wolf on Jun 19, 2005 22:18:09 GMT -5
strathead
Replying to question #3, truth be told, I do a lot of wiring in the guitar cavity without using shielded cable at all. Heck if you have the cavity shielded completely, I feel it is not necessary to use shielded cable in there too. To me it just seems like overkill.
As a matter of fact, I like to use a light gauge solid wire as opposed to the thin stranded stuff that comes with the pickups. By that I mean, if a pickup comes with the thin, stranded 4 conductor cable I won't change it over to solid conductor. However, once the pickup cable makes it to the guitar cavity, it's strictly solid, unshielded cable for me.
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Post by Runewalker on Jun 19, 2005 22:43:54 GMT -5
Wolf:
I considered the solid wire approach, because I have a lot of cat 5 around I can strip. However, when researching the pros and cons, I read (of course I can't find the site to direct you to now) that electrons travel on more on the surface than through the wire, so that supposedly stranded wire is more conductive. Maybe that is one for the electronic engineers on the board
I sort of tend to go with the 'shielded wire in a shielded cavity is overkill. argument, with the exception of wires traveling through wood tunnels. This is not as much an issue with top routed strats, but can be with back routed and more carefully routed pup cavities of Gibbies, etc. I still go with "the only good hum is a dead hum" epithet.
My bigger issue with insulated wire is that the PVC covers melt so easily when exposed to the solder iron.
I lucked onto a guy on Ebay selling military 22g stranded, shielded and inner/outer teflon insulated hookup wire for about what I paid for 22g mini rolls at Frys. That has definitely helped the melt down prob.
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Post by RollnROCK89i on Jun 19, 2005 23:25:41 GMT -5
Wolf: I lucked onto a guy on Ebay selling military 22g stranded, shielded and inner/outer teflon insulated hookup wire for about what I paid for 22g mini rolls at Frys. That has definitely helped the melt down prob. Does he still sell it? If so, whats his name? |
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strathead
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Post by strathead on Jun 20, 2005 12:21:49 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys . . .
Nice ebay grab Runewalker. I found a source around me that has shielded cable so I might as well use it since I'm right in the middle of the work.
Still not sure if all the ground wires get tied to a ring terminal which is then secured to a pot. The pic on the GuitarNuts QTB section suggest's a different thing.
Can anybody help me out on this as that's about the final thing I need to do fter getting the shielded cable attached to the output jack/volume pot.
-John
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strathead
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Post by strathead on Jun 20, 2005 13:26:06 GMT -5
Ok, I think I might have it now . . .
The ring terminal with all the grounds just floats, it isn't connected to anything. Does that make sense?
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Post by erikh on Jun 20, 2005 14:13:30 GMT -5
Yes, the ring with all the ground points floats, but cover it so it doesn't hit anything else. Then, the capacitor goes from that ring to a second ring. It's the second ring that gets mounted to one of the pot shafts. If you don't have the capacitor, then just run a wire from the first ring to the second ring.
For question 2: If the glue is not conductive, clean it off the copper as best you can. You will need to lightly solder across the seams to make a connection. Heck, you can even take a heavy staple from a staple gun and punch it across the seam in to the body wood. I've seen that trick somewhere.
Runewalker, your assesment is correct about the solid vs. stranded wire. Stranded wire is more efficient than solid due to having more surface area for the signal to travel across.
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strathead
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Post by strathead on Jun 20, 2005 14:13:46 GMT -5
Wow, pretty bad hum and extraneous noises. Not too sure about this new fangled way of wiring.
Oh well, I'm just gunna wire it up the old way as I'm on a tight time schedule and have to get this axe working properly.
Thanks for the help anyway guys.
-John
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Post by erikh on Jun 20, 2005 14:14:46 GMT -5
Wow, pretty bad hum and extraneous noises. Not too sure about this new fangled way of wiring. Oh well, I'm just gunna wire it up the old way as I'm on a tight time schedule and have to get this axe working properly. Thanks for the help anyway guys. -John See my post above. You're probably missing a ground point. |
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strathead
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Post by strathead on Jun 20, 2005 14:16:40 GMT -5
Ooops, didn't see your reply Erik, thanks man.
I'll see what I can do with this thing at a later date, right now I just have to get the guitar working.
I actually shouldn't have tried this at this moment due to time, but I thought since I was switching the pickups I'd have a go at this shielding process.
-John
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