ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 17, 2011 19:27:01 GMT -5
Hi guys, My first post in here and I'm still a bit scattered in my thinking as to what I'm trying to do and why so if you'll bear with me on this it will be appreciated.
I'm 44 years old and I haven't owned an electric guitar for most of the last 15 years although I've owned some nice guitars in my time ,Les Paul's,Strats.
If you've managed to forgive me for my sins then I'll tell you that I recently came into possession of a Chinese made Squier Strat and upgraded the bridge pup to an 11.4k ohm Artic single-coil sized hum-bucker,coil tappable through a 500k push/pull volume pot. This was the first upgrade regarding electrics that I've made to a guitar so I am almost a total noob at this kind of thing and my knowledge of such things is in balance with that. I'm interested in upgrading the other 2 pups and I'd like as much input as I can muster regarding what kind of values I should be looking for and why. I use the bridge for lead stuff and the middle and neck mostly for rhythm stuff at present.
I'm also considering some general modding for the guitar and I have a fender TBX pot ready as well as a handful of orange drop caps mostly .047uf but I have one at .022uf as well. I have some Allen Bradley carbon composite 220k resistors arriving soon as I read an interesting article regarding their use with the TBX pot, I don't know if any of you guys would have suggestions as to their use any further that that.
What I was thinking of doing was fitting a master volume using the 500k push/pull pot,a master tone using the TBX pot and a blender pot for adding a few new options regarding getting the bridge and neck pups working together without too many complications. I've read some posts in here about schemes adding out of phase options but I fear they may be a little ahead of me at present. What I need info on is all the values regarding pots,caps etc and how they could all affect the overall tones and sounds that would be likely to occur at whatever different values are available. I'm open to using different values as well if they would be more beneficial to the guitar. I do like the high end and the quacky sounds a strat gives you but I'm not averse to mellower sounds.
I'm also thinking of getting myself a MiM Strat or even building a guitar for myself from a kit or from ordering in separate pieces,a body here,a neck there etc.
So,what I need really is a bit of advice regarding how best to match up some new pups for the guitar I'm using at present but with an eye towards how I could carry that over into a better instrument or if I should even.
I hope I've not confused you too much with my ramblings but I'd really appreciate any input I can get so I can reach a better understanding of what my options could be and what kind of costs would be involved too,as always a major consideration.
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
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Post by newey on Dec 17, 2011 23:41:05 GMT -5
ape09090-
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!
Pickup choice is one of those highly subjective things, and any advice any of us can give is going to be colored by our own likes/dislikes, as well as by the type of music one plays.
So, more general philosophy here than actual recommendations.
Your bridge HB is pretty hot at 11.4Ω, few single coils would match that in terms of output. And the ones that do so will fall towards the "metal guitar" end of the spectrum.
Of course, you could forego single coils altogether, and put single-coil sized HBs throughout.
But a bit more output at the bridge has its advantages , too. The higher output gives you a bit of a "solo setting" with the bridge pup alone. Play rhythm on the neck/mid settings, flip to the bridge for the leads- some folks like that a lot, it's the essence of a SSH Strat.
The downside is, at Position 2 on your switch (the B + M setting), the hotter bridge pup may "swamp out" the middle pup entirely, making position 2 sound much like position 1.
Now, when Fender makes a SSH Strat, the bridge HB is split in position 2, such that the middle pup is combined with only one coil of the HB. This tends to solve the "swamp out" issue.
But, with that, we're talking a splitting a full-size HB, not a SC-sized one. You may find splitting the SC-sized HB to be less than satisfying. The individual coils on those are pretty tiny, and don't really approximate a regular SC pup.
In any event, did you wire the Bridge HB to be split at position 2?
This can also solve the "hotter bridge" issue, since you can dial it back a bit when in combo with the other pup.
If you like the regular SC "quack", I'd say go with a good pair of SCs, don't worry about the resistance mismatch, just accept that the bridge will be louder.
Rather than a blend pot, I would be tempted to just use a separate volume pot for the bridge pup. A concentric pot is a possibility there, although using the TBX pot after 2 volumes may give you some issues.
As far as cap values, pot values, etc., this again gets into personal preference. For a SSH Strat, if it's to be wired with a regular master volume and 2 tones, as per usual Strat practice, one popular option is to move the middle tone control over to the bridge HB, thus giving it a separate tone control, and thereby allowing the use of a different value for the tone cap. This alleviates the tone knob interaction at Position 4 on the switch, which you get from having both tone controls, N and M, active at once. Since the std. Start wiring doesn't give N + B as an option, moving one tone control to the bridge eliminates any interaction.
Again, though, if the TBX is your only tone, that's out as well.
As far as new pickups go, the Artecs are pretty good for the price. The GFS pickups, available through Guitarfetish, are reputed to be Artec-made as well. Duncans or Dimarzios bump you up to another price range, and then there's boutique stuff beyond that.
Lots of folks here swear by the Wilde and Keystone pickups from Bill Lawrence (the original Bill Lawrence, not "Bill Lawrence USA"). These are fairly priced and generally loved for their tone and low noise.
But your options are numerous, certainly.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 8:30:53 GMT -5
Hi Newey, nice to meet you, Yes,I welcome all opinions subjective or whatever,all good for me. I don't have a big guitar store anywhere near me so any info or chat on this is good for me,what with me not even owning an electric for so long I figure things have probably moved on since last I was in the loop and googling around probably won't help me as much as a few words from guys such as yourself who are more up to date than me. I'm really liking the HB in the bridge,I know it's not officially stratty in the true sense of the instrument but what the hell it gives good lead so sod it. The HB is not coil tapped in position 2 unless I pull the volume pot up and that pot is not very stable in the pulled up setting so if I want the quack I go to position 4 now. Clearly though,if I'm going to be digging around in the guts of the thing it would be nice to get a better result than that. The HB has the 4 wires on it so it is coil-tappable but it's a question of me knowing where to put the wires to get back to a single coil for the bridge in position 2. As you say though,maybe the result wouldn't be worth much anyway. I was considering doing the 'Gilmour' mod to get the N+B working together but I read about there being some issues introduced when you start to have more than 1 volume pot wired to the 5-way switch,this was why I was considering the blender pot instead. I was thinking that having the bridge on the blender would give me more control over the output of that pup in other positions as well but you say using a TBX as master tone for that set up would bring other problems into the mix. Could you enlarge on that for me please? Also, a concentric pot. That's a double ganged pot carrying the same or different values is it? What advantages or disadvantages would using that pot give me please? Would it be possible to place the tone (or TBX) pot before the volume/s pot/s? Would doing that introduce any other issues that you can think of? There's a few guys in the UK,where I am, selling pups at good prices and with a good rep as well. Ironstone and Wilkinson are the first two I can think of but then there are guys like Axesrus as well. I guess they're the UK equivalent to GFS although I am thinking about GFS too. I've not heard of Wilde or Keystone before but I will have a look at them now,thanks for that. I think I'll be using alnico V pups at the end of the day from whatever brand,I don't think I need to be going to too expensive pups as I'm only a recreational player so a £50 set will probably suit me fine. Maybe around the 6k ohm value to up the output a touch without losing the essential SC strat sounds. I want to keep it as simple as possible but I'd love to be able to get the N+B working together and I'm on the Wilde site now,looking good.
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Post by newey on Dec 18, 2011 10:22:17 GMT -5
OK, I forgot you said that you had already split the HB with a P/P pot. If you like the SC sound of the HB when it's split, then ignore what I said.
If you want to have it split automatically at position 2, you can just follow one of Fender's SSH diagrams, but I'm not sure whether that will be doable with the P/P pot, I'd have to look at a diagram to see if that can be done.
As far as the TBX goes, some like it, some don't. I've never played with one, but the bass cut on the TBX has been described here as "subtle" by others.
With any tone control, TBX or otherwise, if you have 2 volumes going to a single tone control, the position(s) of the 2 volumes will affect the operation of the master tone. This can be avoided by using separate tone controls and wiring them before the volume controls, which is how SGs and LPs are wired. A dual-gang pot (essentially 2 pots on one shaft) can be used to wire this with a "master " tone control, or concentric pots can be used for actual separate tone controls on a single shaft.
I also forgot you were in the UK. As far as recommending local suppliers, we have several UK members who will chime in on that, I'm sure. You can also check our Links page (in the Reference section), you may find some places you didn't know of.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 10:24:12 GMT -5
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Post by cynical1 on Dec 18, 2011 10:53:26 GMT -5
Well, with things the way they are most of us have lost the decent guitar store near us. Fortunately, there is always eBay and the Internet.
Well, if someone wanted a traditional "Strat" sound, they would have just bought said Strat and never wandered in here... But since you are here...
And splitting coils is a doable thing with either a toggle, or if you're feeling froggy you can lock in combinations through a Super Switch.
Newey broached the subject earlier, and I'll drag it up again. With the advent of noiseless pickups in a single coil profile, unless you just feel you have to have a true single coil pickup, they do make life much simpler when switching combinations.
Granted, people do split coils in these noiseless single coils, but it strikes me as something akin to removing the meat to make the sandwich lighter...but that's just my opinion...
Over the years, and from my perspective, adding local series\parallel is much more useable then splitting coils. Again, my opinion and not intended as Gospel.
A simple neck-on switch can give you the neck and bridge combo. Just a small SPST toggle switch. Gilmour added this to the Black Strat as it only had the older 3-way switch.
If you decide to do this mod, remember that in order for it to be hum cancelling you'll need a north and south coil. I am not familiar with the codes for your pickups, so a little testing and research will be required if you want the combination to be humbucking.
And I wouldn't call them "issues" when incorporating more then one volume pot...it's more like interactive functionality...some people like it, some don't. I'm finishing a guitar up that has this type of wiring. I'm sure there will be some learning curve involved, but I'm game for it.
And JohnH can speak to blenders better then I can, but I recall him mentioning that the blenders are more effective in series then parallel. As someone who uses the local parallel option frequently I have never pursued a blender option.
I'll leave the TBX questions for those with more experience with them.
As far as pickup selection, RTN and I are probably the strongest Wilde (the real Bill Lawrence) advocates. I'm not sure how bad the shipping will eat you up from the States to the UK. I don't know if he ever set up distribution in the UK, as he sells everything direct now. I do know that the US Postal Service has packages that allow someone to send up to $400.00 worth of contents for $13.95 US, or 8.97 GBP. A few of us have done this for some of our distant cousins overseas.
And my opinions on cheap pickups have been clearly stated, so I'll leave it at that. It takes just as much effort to install a cheap pickup as it does for a quality pickup. If your intention is to improve the performance, and you intend on leaving it in place...go big or stay home. But, that's just my opinion... In 5-10 years how important was that extra $30.00-$50.00? (19.00-32.00 GBP)
And an e-mail to Wilde usually gets you a response within a week or so from Becky. Telling them what you have and what you want to do will allow them to make a good recommendation.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 11:03:33 GMT -5
Newey, just missed your earlier post there, thank you,you're knowledge is broadening my understanding. I have to say tho all this electrickery stuff makes my head hurt,lol. I will keep plugging away until that changes however. Do those blend pots act as volume pots then? I guess they do or how else would you 'blend' 2 signals together.What I mean is do you have to treat a blend pot as a volume pot or is that why it's called a blend pot,because it's been treated or modded in some way to obviate any potential problems with using it where it's supposed to go? The guys selling them,Callaham for example,make no mention of their being any problems with them at all,it looks like a simple replacement of a tone pot for a blend pot and that's it.Plus I think the one's that are 'no load' pots when turned up full kinda swayed me towards them a bit as well. www.callahamguitars.com/partsstr.htm#pickguards_electronicstowards the bottom and you get the blurb on them. If I can get a circuit on the guitar that allows me to use the N+B together I'd be well happy. I had a schematic for a HSS strat just a few days ago and I'll go see if I can dig it out again now and I have no worries about ordering stuff from the US,in fact so long as it comes in under £100 sterling it means a small saving for me tax-wise. The TBX I have sat here looking at me now just came from Arizona along with it's bro a new 5-way switch. Thnaks again for you interest it's appreciated
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Post by newey on Dec 18, 2011 11:27:06 GMT -5
I'm not sure what Callaham's "blend pot" is doing, it looks just like a regular pot- and regular pots can be used for blending one signal into another. Our JohnH advocates for using a regular pot to do blending. More commonly, when a person says "blend pot", they are referring to a dual-gang pot with a center detent, like your TBX pot. Turning it one way brings one signal up while turning the other down, turning the other way does the opposite, and both are on full in the center. Here's some light reading for you on these topics: ChrisK's "Blend and Pan Pots"ChrisK's "Free Neck On" switchJohnH's "Strat with 2 Volume Controls"
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 11:29:53 GMT -5
Hi cynical 1, thanks for joining in, if I get my hands on a good used MiM strat or if I decide to build a guitar for myself from scratch then the budget for the pups will improve significantly but in the meantime it's a chinese made squier we're talking about here so even 50 quids worth of pups is quite an investment. I'd rather keep the guitar looking stock if it's possible but at the end of the day I guess a single toggle switch wouldn't hurt too much if it means simplifying the wiring. Who would have thought it would be so complicated,lol. I thinking of ordering one of the blender pots just to see what schematic is included now. In series and parallel means very little to me I'm afraid.
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Post by lpf3 on Dec 18, 2011 11:36:01 GMT -5
C1 wrote: I agree. I think a bridge pup in parallel sounds real close to the typical Strat position 4 quack (M + B) ; and the N + (parallel) bridge is very Tele- like. Another benefit to the Series/Parallel switch is that you get the sharper single coil sound & it's still hum-cancelling. This switch is a very simple way to get your N + B setting and retain the stock look, although you do lose the middle only spot. I found the Megaswitch along with the local Series/Parallel setting at the bridge to be quite versatile. -lpf3
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 18, 2011 13:33:31 GMT -5
a Chinese made Squier Strat This was the first upgrade regarding electrics that I've made to a guitar so I am almost a total noob at this kind of thing and my knowledge of such things is in balance with that. I'm interested in upgrading the other 2 pups I'm also considering some general modding for the guitar A Squier isn't necessarily a bad guitar, but the hardware is generally low quality and the neck (the heart of a guitar) can be anywhere between quite nice to downright crappy. If the neck is straight, you could end up with a very nice guitar when all is said and done. If the fretboard looks like a rollercoaster, you'll just be putting lipstick on a pig. In addition to the pickups and electronics, evaluate the rest of the guitar and consider upgrades there, as well. Pickups (and the amp) have much to do with the tone, but they do nothing for the playability of the instrument. The tools you'll need for leveling, crowning, and polishing the frets are not all that expensive. After you have them, the only investment is the time it takes to do the work. A Squier would be a great place to learn. Even if you make catastrophic mistakes, you haven't lost much. As far as the electronics go, if you're going to replace the pickups on a squier, consider gutting the electronics right down to the output jack. A well made output jack will last a lot longer than the stock one and a small investment now will save you from repairs later. Ditto for the selector switch. Even if your wiring plans only require a standard 5-way, replacing that with a Megaswitch-S won't cost much and the benefits will be immediate. The mechanical position selection is positive and deliberate compared with the sloppy action of a Squier lever. a blender pot for adding a few new options regarding getting the bridge and neck pups working together without too many complications. To keep things straight, I like to call that a "bleeder" rather than a blender. If you connect the wiper of a pot to one pickup and the ccw lug of the pot to another pickup, you can gradually bleed the output of Pickup B into the guitar signal when Pickup A is selected. And vice-versa. The pickups are separated by the total resistance of the pot when the knob is at 10. For all intents and purposes, only the pickup that's selected will be heard. But as you rotate the pot toward 0, more of the non-selected pickup will be added. This is an easy wiring addition to a conventional all-parallel wiring scheme. And it won't cause the interaction problems that you will have to manage with a true blender or multiple volume controls. I'm also thinking of getting myself a MiM Strat or even building a guitar for myself from a kit or from ordering in separate pieces,a body here,a neck there etc. So,what I need really is a bit of advice regarding how best to match up some new pups for the guitar I'm using at present but with an eye towards how I could carry that over into a better instrument or if I should even. I'm pretty sure the hole pattern of the scratchplate of a Squier and a MiM are the same. But even if they aren't, or if you decide to keep the scratchplates with their original instruments for cosmetic reasons, it would be possible to dismount all the pickups and controls from one scratchplate and mount them on the other without doing any soldering. In the end, you'd end up with all the pickups and electronic you're buying now on the MiM and the stock MiM stuff on the Squier. Not bad, really.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 15:08:23 GMT -5
It's a 22 fret neck on the squier and I've spent some good time adjusting and re-adjusting the truss-rod, a quarter turn at a time,nice and slow. I reckon it's as good now as it's ever been. Spent some time on the intonation as well and I think I've gone as far as I can with that as well. She's in tune from the nut to the top fret but there's still a slight sharp around the second and third fret on the high e string that I can't seem to do anything about,very frustrating indeed. www.dropbox.com/gallery/48328853/1/Guitar?h=3f2297that may or may not work,good luck tho I was looking at upgrading the tremolo block recently but discovered that most new ones are too thick to go in a squier because the body is only 1 and 3/4 of an inch thick. That put the lid on it for me really and since then I've been looking for a decent used MiM .They're not exactly 2 a penny around my way though so the idea to make a guitar from pre-ordered parts is becoming more attractive to me. I would need to complete this upgrade to the squier first just so I know I can do what I want under the hood so to speak. I've been reading up on wiring schematics and I want to thank you guys for helping me with this and please don't take what I say next as meaning you should shut up ,please keep it coming but reading through what you're all saying is like listening through an old badly-tuned radio for me....I get to understand a few words now and then but mostly it's white noise. I've seen that blender pot on the callaham site and it says it's a no load pot at a certain setting so I know that means that at that setting it's completely out of the circuit.For me that says,hey you can always turn me off if I mess up,so I think I'm going to order one of them in and fit it in the squier using the tbx as a master pot and using the caps and resistors I have as well. I doubt the guitar will explode if I get it too wrong. If you like,I'm buying stuff and just hoping it all does what it says on the tin.Knowing the intricacies of stuff to the last degree is beyond me I just want a simple circuit that's reliable so I;m gonna have to dive in and start messing with stuff or I'll never know wtf you guys are saying
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 15:19:31 GMT -5
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 18, 2011 15:53:55 GMT -5
Yep, that's what I would call a bleeder. That one bleeds the neck pickup into whatever pickup combination is selected. Naturally, you'll have full neck whenever neck or neck and middle are selected. But in the other 3 positions, the position of the knob controls how much neck is added. I don't like the choice of lugs they've selected on the pot. It is a little more intuitive to have more added when the knob is rotated clockwise as they have it. But if using a log taper pot, there is a huge change in resistance toward the clockwise end of the rotation. It makes the adjustment very "switchy". If you want the knob to go in that direction, a linear pot is better. But control of the bleed is best at the counter-clockwise end of a log pot. A neck bleed will allow you to add all or part of the neck to the remaining 3 positions. But it won't allow the neck to be louder. A neck-to-bridge bleed won't allow you to bleed neck into the middle-only selection. But it has a different feature. If you select neck or neck+middle, the bleed adds some or all of the neck. If you select bridge or bridge+middle the bleed adds some or all of the bridge. Maybe you'll find that more useful, or maybe you'll prefer what the neck bleed can do. Either one is easy enough to do and in my opinion a better use of a third knob than having 2 tone controls.
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 18, 2011 16:06:14 GMT -5
She's in tune from the nut to the top fret but there's still a slight sharp around the second and third fret on the high e string that I can't seem to do anything about,very frustrating indeed. If the nutslot for your high-e is not deep enough, it will make the action very high, particularly at the nut end of the fretboard. Since you have to deflect the string a long way in a short distance (from nut to the frets), this could be "bending" the pitch sharp. But you said second and third. What's it like at the first fret? If the sharpness is worse at the first, a high nutslot is possible the cause. But if the intonation is good at the first fret and bad at the second and third, there's something more peculiar happening. Strings are cheap. Replacing the high e would eliminate the possibility that the string itself is the culprit. Edit: I've been reading up on wiring schematics and I want to thank you guys for helping me with this and please don't take what I say next as meaning you should shut up ,please keep it coming but reading through what you're all saying is like listening through an old badly-tuned radio for me....I get to understand a few words now and then but mostly it's white noise. Unless you have training in electronics, much of what we say will seem like Greek at first. Keep reading and learn a little here and there. Eventually the signal to noise ratio will improve. In series and parallel means very little to me I'm afraid. Rather than a lot of words, a simple picture is in order here. Knowing the intricacies of stuff to the last degree is beyond me I just want a simple circuit that's reliable so I;m gonna have to dive in and start messing with stuff or I'll never know wtf you guys are saying Keep it simple at first. Worry about running or dancing after you're comfortable with walking.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 18, 2011 18:48:19 GMT -5
Cheers, I'm looking at Deaf Eddie's pages and I think I get parallel and in series now,definitely keep it simple for me please. www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-service-diagramsthere's a few HSS Strats on there but they all appear to be using the super-switches or exotic looking ( to me) stuff. Time for zzzzz's for me now,much appreciated guys,thanks all. Hopefully when I wake up tomorrow some more of it will make sense.
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 18, 2011 19:13:20 GMT -5
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 19, 2011 19:28:02 GMT -5
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 19, 2011 19:37:21 GMT -5
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Post by cynical1 on Dec 19, 2011 21:12:28 GMT -5
Yes, that's the real Bill Lawrence...or Willi Lorenz Stich... Don't be fooled by the low prices. These pickups are the real deal. And unless there's something different about the pots on eBay, Alpha pots like that sell for under $3.00 US on Mouser. And while I've never used them, Entwistle pickups seem to be getting a lot of press around here recently. www.entwistlepickups.com/HTC1
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 19, 2011 23:17:35 GMT -5
the string is in the nut too deeply if anything,the nut could do with sanding down some, The distance from the string to the top surface of the nut doesn't affect the action and the intonation. How far is it from the bottom of the string to the top of one of the fret that is giving you intonation trouble. And how does that compare with that measurement for other strings at the same fret? You don't need a dual gang pot for the bleeder circuit we were discussing. Just a single pot like a volume or tone would use.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 21, 2011 14:27:11 GMT -5
Hello chaps, one quick question,should I be looking for a 250k or 500k pot for the blender? Thanks again
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 21, 2011 22:45:07 GMT -5
Either would work. 500k will give you a little more isolation. 250K will give you finer control of the bleed.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 22, 2011 5:47:32 GMT -5
Thanks reTread, I'm trying to figure out how that works, I was thinking 500k because of the HB that's in the bridge now but I guess there's only going to be a very fine distinction in either case. Happy X-mas everyone!!!
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 22, 2011 6:19:27 GMT -5
Well,finally in spite of the madness of the holiday season I've ordered all the bits for the squier upgrades, got these pups www.ironstone-pickups.co.uk/vintage-Alnico-pickup-range/platinum-gradeif/when I get a MiM or do a build I think I'll look at Wilde pups I have the other bits,pots,caps, new wire,copper shielding etc so can get stuck in as soon as it all arrives,will keep you posted as to my progress ,thanks again for your interest and input all been very helpful to me
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 30, 2011 17:07:04 GMT -5
All done guys just need to string up now and see what she sounds like but a basic tap on the pups with a lead plugged into the jack sounds pretty punchy so far.
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 30, 2011 17:51:18 GMT -5
Glad to hear things are moving along for you. Tell us what you think after you've played it a bit.
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ape09090
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 31, 2011 9:58:28 GMT -5
Wow,I did it...and what do you know,I didn't burn the house down,lol. Ironstone pups in the neck and bridge appear to be extremely good value for the price paid and have a much more attractive clean tone to them and a higher output than the stock squier pups The TBX pot works as advertised and gives me a better control over the single-coils and the HB I have in the set-up . The blend pot is working as advertised as well but what with the bridge pup being a much higher output HB than the two SC in the neck and middle I don't think I'll get the best out of that set-up unless I complete the Ironstone set and put the SC in the bridge as well. Only just finished it though so will give it a few hours play and see how it settles on me. Thanks for your input fella's ,it all helped me
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 31, 2011 10:33:06 GMT -5
The blend pot is working as advertised as well but what with the bridge pup being a much higher output HB than the two SC in the neck and middle I don't think I'll get the best out of that set-up unless I complete the Ironstone set and put the SC in the bridge as well. If I recall, you were doing the blender on the neck, right? That means you can add some or all of the neck depending on the rotation of the pot. If the Bridge is stronger, the neck can never quite keep up, even at full blend. Consider connecting the blender to the Bridge instead. That way you can blend all the way from Neck only to the Bridge overpowering the Neck.
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ape09090
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by ape09090 on Dec 31, 2011 11:20:42 GMT -5
I put the neck on one side of the blender and the bridge on the other side so with the 5 way set to neck I can bring in the bridge and with the 5 way set to bridge I can bring in the neck. The pot seems to be lowering the volume of the one pup as it raises the volume of the other pup though. What I expected I don't know, If I dis-connected the bridge pup and just left the neck pup wired to the blend pot then I'd be able to just introduce the neck pup directly into what ever other setting I had I guess.
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