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Post by morbe on Dec 29, 2011 21:38:36 GMT -5
As you all know that I have a Fender Hotrod Deluxe That I have a love hate relationship with. Well so far the relationship is turned for the worst. She died on me  She blew a fuse about 4 days ago and it was replaced, Then early this morning I was jamming and she blw another fuse. Thinking it was a fluke and replace the fuse again and 5 min later it blue again! So I Swapped out power tubes and She blew the second I took her off stand by. I took her to my amp guy and i=he said that there was a bad diode near the power tubes and I was thinking GREAT nothing serious. Then he called back with terrible news. The Amp no longer turns on. The Diode was obviously not the issue. The transformer will have to be replaced. He says. Its an easy fix I can do that my self I said. He agreed to give the amp back at no charge since he could not fix the issue. He claims that the 6.3 vac winding is out and possibly shorting to the internal core. So after all that explanation he said that after the transformer was replaced that amp could be tester and further repaired. "FURTHER REPAIRED", I thought to myself. What else could it be? He tested the tubes and they're fine. Then I thought further did he break my amp? or can a power transfer slowly die? At what point should I just cut my losses with this amp? I mean I've heard stories where people get junk electronics from the 40's and 50's just so they can build an amp around the 60-70 year old Power transformers!? What gives has anyone had issues like this? |
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 30, 2011 9:01:08 GMT -5
At what point should I just cut my losses with this amp? After you get a second opinion from another amp tech. Then I thought further did he break my amp? No, you broke your amp. Else you wouldn't have taken it to him in the first place. Did he make it worse? Maybe. Difficult to determine in-person. Impossible to tell from a distance. or can a power transfer slowly die? Yes. Seems unlikely, but certainly possible. I mean I've heard stories where people get junk electronics from the 40's and 50's just so they can build an amp around the 60-70 year old Power transformers!? What's your point? Sometimes parts fail. Sometimes they don't. He claims that the 6.3 vac winding is out and possibly shorting to the internal core. There are two 100ohm resistors, one on each leg of the 6.3v winding, connected to ground. It's possible he measured between the windings and ground, and mistook that for a short. Idk. I wasn't there. It's also possible that the transformer overheated and some of the insulation on the windings melted, getting worse over time. Or you might have a nut or screw that came loose and found its way between the printed board, shorting the 6.3v windings. She died on me She blew a fuse about 4 days ago and it was replaced, Then early this morning I was jamming and she blw another fuse. Thinking it was a fluke and replace the fuse again and 5 min later it blue again! So I Swapped out power tubes and She blew the second I took her off stand by. It's possible that the 6.3v windings are shorted and had been drawing enough current on the primary that the fuse was close to blowing and switching from standby to on was "the straw that broke the camel's back". But I'm not convinced this is what happened. Have an amp tech disconnect the 6.3v and HV secondary windings from the circuit. Then measure the primary current. It should be much lower than the rating on the fuse. If not, your transformer is cooked. |
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Post by sumgai on Dec 30, 2011 14:41:01 GMT -5
reT, Have an amp tech disconnect the 6.3v and HV secondary windings from the circuit. Then measure the primary current. It should be much lower than the rating on the fuse. If not, your transformer is cooked. Err, not quite. Disconnecting the windings from the rest of the circuit means there will be no current draw at all - no load equals no current flow. Voltage will be available, but as you imply, that's not even close to giving us anything meaningful towards solving the issue. Better would be to do the disconnect operation, and then substitute in place of the amp circuitry a 100Ω, 1 watt resistor, and take a current reading through that. Now you'll have an idea of how much current is being supplied by the HV windings. I recommend against this method for the 6.3vAC windings, though. Way too much current is available, and reading it through a resistor is not easy. If one absolutely must do it, make it a 5watt unit, at the least. And even that's gonna get pretty durn hot, in short order. If I had to do it in my bench, I'd probably use a 10 watt doohickie, just to be safe. But other than that, the rest of your post goes straight to the heart of the matter.  morbe.... do as 'TrEaD suggests. And good luck! HTH sumgai |
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 30, 2011 17:42:12 GMT -5
Err, not quite. Disconnecting the windings from the rest of the circuit means there will be no current draw at all - no load equals no current flow. No load equals no current flow? I wont say, "Err, not quite." But I will say, I respectfully disagree. With no load on the secondaries, there is still current in the primary. But that current should be "much lower" than the fuse rating. Expect zero, and you condemn a healthy transformer. If you see half the fuse rating on an unloaded transformer, expect internal problems. If you see a tenth or less, you're ready for further testing. A decent amp tech will be able to calculate the effect on the primary, of the filament loads on the 6.3v winding. After removing all the tubes and the indicator lamp, he'll first measure the resistance in the filament circuit before reattaching the filament windings of the transformer. If he finds any anomalies other than the balancing resistors, he'll know to look for problems on the chassis or printed board. If okay, he'll move on to reattaching the filament windings and installing the tubes to load the circuit. His calculations for power in the filament circuit will tell him how much additional power (plus about 10% for losses) will be seen on the primary side. Divide by the line voltage to determine the additional current, then add that to the unloaded primary current. I have doubts about the 6.3v winding being the problem. But if it is, it's likely to show up in the unloaded testing. Shorted windings will cause substantial current in the primary even though the secondaries are unloaded. Barring that, when loaded the shorted windings would cause the secondary voltage to drop below the rated 6.3v, when under load. Testing the HV windings will be far more difficult. Even though the current is low, the power is still high because the voltage is so high. Emulating a 50w load is not a simple task. A 1800ohm resistor would put you in the ballpark for a 300Vac secondary. But it's not all that likely he'll have a 50W 1800ohm resistor just lying around. Transformers aren't cheap. Before replacing one, it's important to be sure that's what the problem actually is. And before subjecting it to the same loads, you need to be sure it wasn't a problem in the loads that caused the transformer to fail in the first place. |
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Post by morbe on Dec 30, 2011 17:45:52 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm Not sure whats wrong with the amp but I didn't break it. As suggested by ReTrEaD. I pamper all my gear. The amp tech I took it to tested the PT and said there was no 6.3vAC reading from the PT and he stated that is was in fact damaged and he didn't need to test it further in case it was grounded to the chassis and it could be potentially dangerous to further test the PT in case it was shorting to ground. Fact of the matter is it has no power and the PT must be swapped out with a known good one to further test. So the PT is on order, should be here sometime next week. I have been reading a lot however that you can perform a recap and mod kit on the amp that "Should" Take care of all the "Known Issues" with the Fender Hot rod fromelelectronics.com/modifications/Amps-Fender-Hot-Rod-DeluxeIf the power Transformer fixes the main issue, I'm seriously considering getting this done. So I have really lost faith in this particular amp and I had a heart to heart with "Frank" the amp tech here where I live who is pretty reputable. Honest, fast turn around, not to mention he's pretty anal retentive. We talked about Tube amp in general and he did mention that the Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, and deville models keep him in business. He said that this was because of the circuit board design. and told me that to get a quality Fender amp I have to get back to the "Open Wired" amps. So I guess if Im gonna dish out money on an amp it might as well do it right. There is a local vintage guitar shop near by that has a 1981 Fender Super reverb for $599. its got some scratchy pots (easy fix in my opinion) the Speakers are original(seem to be a good shape, but really should be reconned and restored to there former glory). Tremolo and reverb still work, It could use a good cleaning with some electrical gunk cleaner. The tolex is in bad shape and the Grill cloth has some tears. So Is this going to be another money pit?! Im really seriously considering purchasing it. |
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 30, 2011 18:45:01 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm Not sure whats wrong with the amp but I didn't break it. As suggested by ReTrEaD. I pamper all my gear. Admittedly, I was having a little fun at your expense. But you were the one casting shadows on your amp tech. And the fact remains, whether you "broke" your amp or it failed on it's own, it was not in working order when you took it to the tech. There is a local vintage guitar shop near by that has a 1981 Fender Super reverb for $599. its got some scratchy pots (easy fix in my opinion) the Speakers are original(seem to be a good shape, but really should be reconned and restored to there former glory). Tremolo and reverb still work, It could use a good cleaning with some electrical gunk cleaner. The tolex is in bad shape and the Grill cloth has some tears. So Is this going to be another money pit?! Im really seriously considering purchasing it. 1981 suggests the last year of the silverface series. $600 sounds steep with heavy cosmetic damage, not to mention the other issues. Will it be a money pit? Impossible to say. It isn't like we have carfax ampfax so we can see the history. But with that much cosmetic damage, one would suspect this amp has logged a lot of miles and been subjected to less than ideal environments. |
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Post by morbe on Dec 31, 2011 8:44:09 GMT -5
I was thinking the same thing about the Super Reverb. And the Store manager wont budge. Considering that the two obvious thing to do with it once purchased is to get a new set of tubes, and start looking at the speakers. Now If i had fallen into some more money after purchase then I would take it to an amp tech to "Look it over" you know make sure its still safe to play through and make sure any spots that look like "Trouble" will get replaced. Then I would get the grill cloth and tolex re done, but yes your right for that price I might as well get one in better shape.
AmpFax/ Guitarfax = Gearfax! Your on to something there, all instruments have serial numbers, Why not?
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Post by newey on Dec 31, 2011 9:59:14 GMT -5
Because the serial numbers aren't registered like VIN numbers, and since there's not much in the way of insurance claims for musical gear, there's not much in the way of "fax" to track.
reTrEaD is right, $600 is too much for something that'll need repair. Makes me wonder about the shop- they don't have a tech on premises? I would think at the very least they would have fixed the scratchy pots before putting it on the sales floor . . .
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Post by cynical1 on Dec 31, 2011 10:51:45 GMT -5
...Now If i had fallen into some more money after purchase then I would take it to an amp tech to "Look it over" you know make sure its still safe to play through and make sure any spots that look like "Trouble" will get replaced... If the shop you're buying an amp from is worth their salt, they'll let you have it checked out before you buy it...especially if they don't have a qualified amp tech in house. Any shop that refuses to allow you have the amp checked by a qualified tech is off the list, IMHO. And from what I've seen, unless you have the experience and equipment to repair a tube amp yourself, going cheap is a recipe for disaster and can cost you more then a verified working amp. Just my two cents. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 31, 2011 12:48:52 GMT -5
And the Store manager wont budge. Why would he? If he waits a while, he's certain to sell it to some schmuck who thinks "OMG, a VINTAGE Fender amp!!!" Shmuck takes the amp home. Plays it a while, then thinks "I should get this restored". Schmuck take amp to a tech, asks for an estimate: New tubes and biasing: $200
Replace 4 scratchy pots: $100
Re-tolex cabinet: $200
Replace grille cloth: $50
Recone 4 speakers: $200
Total: $750 Schmuck's jaw falls to the floor. Schmuck takes amp home instead of having repairs done. Schmuck launders brown stains out of his underwear. Schmuck talks about this with other guitarist friends. Friends say "No way you put that kind of money into a silverface. A blackface or tweed, maybe. But a silverface just doesn't have the resale value." Schmuck decides to just be happy with what he has for a while. After a few months, Schmuck takes the amp back to the store and gets $300 trade-in value toward a better amp. Store owner puts it back on the sales floor and waits for another schmuck. |
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Post by sumgai on Jan 1, 2012 13:31:46 GMT -5
....
Schmuck decides to just be happy with what he has for a while. After a few months, Schmuck ..... .... finds this website, and "upgrades" his amp, instantly making it worth much more than he paid for it. (He later finds it's also available on ebay, but usually for more money.) Schmuck then finds another player to take his "pride and joy, but I gotta have some dough, quick". Title of Schmuck transfers to new amp owner, title of original schmuck becomes "butthole who screws it up for everyone else". All too common a scenario. Not all of us are capable of reaching for a web browser first, instead of the ol' wallet. (For those who have been sorely misjudged in the last 2 decades, websites abound that will give you dates, serial numbers, photos, etc. It pays to do your research ahead of time, instead of afterwards. Just sayin', ya know.  ) HTH sumgai EDIT: For some reason, the "naughty word" filter didn't do its job.  |
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Post by morbe on Jan 1, 2012 17:51:00 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm over that now guys. Thanks for the words of wisdom, Im really just getting paranoid with not having an amp and mixed in with wanting great tone with an amp that has little issues.
After EXTENSIVE research I have found that the Fender HotRod Series is riddles with issues. and not to take any thing away from Fender, or the series they meant well but its no longer for me.
Are there any "known Issues" with the Fender 65 Vintage reissue twin reverb. 85 Watts is a bit too much for me. and they go on CL for about half of what they are worth brand new. Just wondering.
And same question as above but applied to the Fender "The Twin" and "The Evil Twin" Any know issues?
I need to be more or less confident that I dont get another problem child, though I know thats hard to predict getting things second hand.
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Post by reTrEaD on Jan 1, 2012 19:25:21 GMT -5
85 Watts is a bit too much for me.  Meesa confused. Iffa 85wattsa too much, y u lookin atta Twin? Y notta Suppa ora Vibroverb or Deelux or somma othating? |
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Post by thetragichero on Jan 2, 2012 2:09:44 GMT -5
i liked you retread, up until mention the character that shall remained nameless
i think the hot rod deluxe/deville has a killer drive sound (not so much for metal but for raunchy rock and roll/punk), so hearing about these problems is a real bummer
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Post by morbe on Jan 2, 2012 9:12:00 GMT -5
LOL very cute, reTrEaD, I guess the 85 watt thing didn't get me any cool points with the rest of you active musicians. I've only been doing this for about 3 years. My first tube amp was a Bugera Vintage 5. It was great for recording and jamming with a few friends. but add a bass, loud drummer, vocals, and another guitarist, then it got drowned out fast. 15-20 watts would be okay but I really want a bit more. I don't play at large venues, more like small bars and restaurant patios. I have found that with a 40-50 watt I have plenty of room to grow while maintaining the integrity of tone. My fender Hot Rod's volume level never went past 3. and my Peavey Delta blues never past 4.
I'm just afraid that the fender twin reverb reissue that I am looking at with 85 watts of power the volume level will never go past 1-2? I mean how loud can these get at low levels and with two speakers pushing noise. I'm Just really worried that as soon as the volume pot from 0 to 1 its already going to be too loud for the rest of the band. I doubt it but I'm off today so I might go to guitar center and try one out.
Yeah, thetragichero it does sound great in my opinion. The drive ehhh, I would compare it to a salad. "You can survive the day with it, but sooner or later your gonna wants some meat." I have a Keely modded Ibanez ts7 to help dive it some drive. Some of the issues that I was reading about it that. The volume level drops from high to low, and that was due towards sub par capacitors in the amp. Also Amp shut downs which I had an issue with at first. I took it to the shop, and I was told that the issues was because the amps design was to run very hot and that caused cold solder joints. I read this as well. So then now Popping fuse. So I guess the consensus is that its a great sounding amp but with poor electrical design.
Anyhow I'm not sure how long the Fender 65 twin reverb reissue has been out. But from what I've read there really is no issues so far other then the one or two that make the forum for particular issues. As of yet I haven't found any website or forums for the twin reverb reissue dedicated to known issues like other amps.
I know that it wont sound as nice as the original but I am hoping that the twin reverb would be a suitable replacement for my Hot Rod in reliability and tone. and I hoping that it wont develop issues, further more I am hoping that it would also be an upgrade from the hot Rod series and not a lateral move into another series. I will explain: The Hot Rod deluxe to most are considered a beginner tube amp and not "Professional". I am hoping that moving to the Twin Reverb Reissue will be a move into the "professional" realm and not a lateral move to a "novelty" amp.
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Post by reTrEaD on Jan 2, 2012 10:56:43 GMT -5
The '63 reissue series was introduced about 20 years ago with the Twin and the Vibroverb. About 5 years after that, they added the Deluxe and dropped the Vibroverb. About 10 years ago they added the Super.
While using (mostly) the same circuits as the originals, they have printed boards rather than point to point wiring / eyelet boards.
Trying an amp yourself is always an important step in the selection process.
Regarding pricing, any used amp should be priced far below a new one. In addition to the new amp being "minty fresh", it comes with a full warranty.
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Post by newey on Jan 2, 2012 11:04:13 GMT -5
There are those "tone nazis" out there who decry the reissues. Apparently, "vintage" wiring and capacitors somehow sound better and can't be recreated.
I've played through the originals, back in the day and recently, and through the reissues as well. If there's any difference, well, maybe my ears aren't as "vintage tuned" as others, but they sound identical to me.
Everyone from Chuck Berry on down has used a Twin Reverb (Chuck still does, AFAIK . . ).
The usual dislike of Twins from gigging musicians comes from their weight- they are a PITA to lug around. But, you were considering a Super Reverb, they're probably worse since the cabinet is bulkier with the 4 speakers.. So, I assume it's not an issue for you, or you're a body-builder type. ;D
As far as the power, if your tone depends on that overdriven-tube sound, a twin will give you that, but only on the higher end of the volume scale. That's why all the talk of using attenuators, etc. with these amps.
If your tone is "Joe Clean", you'll have that classic Fender clean sound from 1 on up on the volume, and there will be a setting you can use somewhere in there. But, by all means you should play one before deciding.
A few weeks ago, I was seriously looking at a 1991 Vibroverb Reissue- $800 in my local store, in mint condition. I ultimately decided against it as being too powerful for my needs, since I don't play out. I'd never get it anywhere near being overdriven without the neighbors complaining. And the Vibroverb is only 40 watts.
A 22-watt Deluxe Reverb may be more my speed, but even that may be a bit more power than I want or need.
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Post by lpf3 on Jan 2, 2012 11:43:50 GMT -5
I have a 65 Re-issue Twin & love it. I can't offer much in terms of durability though. I don't play out much anymore & have only taken it out a few times so it doesn't get banged around at all. I did have a minor issue with a fuse awhile back- not the main fuse but another smaller fuse that's mounted to the PC board; sumgai helped me track it down & 70 cents later it was fixed.  Here's the thread...... The thing about the Twin is that it's LOUD and very clear, even cranked it doesn't break up much so if you want to drive it you'll probably need a pedal. I usually have the volume anywhere around 2 - 4 & it sounds great . It has a huge, sweet bottom end or it can be piercingly bright, depending on your settings of course, and the reverb is great. I don't think you can go wrong with a Twin, as everyone says- try one first. Sorry to hear about your Deluxe woes- is the Blues JR. in that category? I always liked the sound of those amps...... -lpf3 |
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Post by morbe on Feb 1, 2012 20:32:41 GMT -5
So my Hot Rod is dead, and the fellow Frank That fixes my amps. said that for about 200 bucks in parts he can build a new amp with my box and speaker. Just getting some feedback. I've thought about it and of course there is no rush to get this thing built right away. But I asked him if he buys an amp kit and rebuilds these and he said not really. He says he buys the parts separately.
He's gonna build a simple amp based off the classic fender champ or deluxe. Its going to be all tube, hand wired of course. It will have a tube rectifier, x3 - 12ax7 in the pre-amp section. and x2 - 6L6 power tubes. what makes it unique is that he will place a gain knobs in each stage of preamp and power, so you can add gain to all stages of the pre-amp section, but also you can add gain to the power section. giving you power tube saturation. Sounds pretty cool to me. Very Similar to a Delta Blues from Peavey that I own. You can dial in pre stage gain and post preamp stage. But not the power tubes directly. Depending on which output transformer I decide to buy, it can be 15 - 35 watts, I plan to get the 35 watt design. It wont have reverb or any other effects. Just a thought, I plan to save a little here and there and when I have enough cash just get him to build it. I trust him I really do he has built these designs and sold them to local studio and studio musicians in the surrounding area. But I have never got an amp that wasnt built in a factory with quality assurance checks, but if he wires something wrong I could get fried while eating the mic as I sing like I do. ( I know Im going to invest in a wireless guitar set so i dont have to worry about silly things like that. ) But Really if he's not paying attention some one could get killed right? or is it hard to screw up that bad. I've heard about reverse polarity and I have an outlet checker before I plug into a strange place or outlet. But can you wire things in an home made amp to where its "Deadly"?
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Post by 4real on Feb 1, 2012 22:41:48 GMT -5
deadly...yes you can.... I have a HR Deluxe and not had a problem with it and it is officially the worlds most popular amp (apparently, as far as sales)...has some quirks...like that volume control and the other channels are a bit so so and it is certainly not a 'metal' amp. There are guys that specialize in rebuilding things and there are a bunch of great kits and such for them... for instance, torres engineering... torresengineering.stores.yahoo.net/tubampovpag.htmlYou can go nuts with them if you like, I believe they will even rebuild them for you with point to point wiring and mods and such... a vague "not really" answer is a bit of a red flag for me I have to say. Plus, it is unlikely to impossible that everything in the amp is blown...some stuff is expensive for sure and this amp is popular because it is on the budget end of the scale and fills an important sector there...tubes, fender, loud enough, wont break the back or bank and does not require a truck to move it about...couple that with the fact that someone is unlikely to pinch your amp head while you go back for your 4x12 stack on a trolly. ... If looking for a new amp or a redesign, ask yourself what attracted you to the HR and what is the kind of amp you are after. What are your needs. I knew a guy years ago that got talked into a 200 watt combo...he is a bed room player, the thing was too loud even on 1/4 of 1! I've heard the down side and I have one, but then I've seen plenty of people, even professionals use these things. ... Get a second opinion and explore your options...consider a smaller SS practice amp while you save or make decisions on it. Think about why the thing broke in the first place (sorry, did not read your thread) has it had a rough life, the wrong guy got his hands inside, played ridiculously loud. ... On the power thing...do yourself a favour and get yourself a power board with a 'safety switch' on it....it could well save your life in dodgy environments and such...plug all your effects and such in it too. If in a band, make everyone do it. Do I do this...yes, out here houses all should have 'safety switches and I have triggered them....however, I ahve several power boards that have them...i use them for making stuff with electric tools or amps...my computer is plugged into one now in fact. Here is a tip...if you need more sockets, run a normal adaptor or power broad off the power switch, it comers everything down the line. ... I have been shocked in the mouth singing through a dodgy amp that was out of my control...can tell you that it hurts. Now, guitar...well, you are likely to get shocked right across the heart...that only hurts if you survive. That is not to say that one can't do this kind of thing or get someone to do it, but...well...one should by law here be a registered electrician to do so. |
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 2, 2012 2:02:49 GMT -5
But can you wire things in an home made amp to where its "Deadly"? Yes, but you have to be a complete moron to make the amp deadly. The HRD has a 3 wire power cable. IF you miswire the cable, you could have line voltage on the chassis (and on the shield side of the guitar cable). IF you plug the amp into a miswired outlet, you could have line voltage on the chassis (and on the shield side of the guitar cable). IF you have an insulated jack for the amp input and miswire the amp (or have an internal circuit failure) you could have dangerously high DC voltage on the shield side of the guitar cable. For all intents and purposes, the amp itself should be completely safe, unless a moron builds it. However, I do recommend a GFCI on the power distribution system you plug the amp into. This is probably the same thing as the safety switch 4real mentioned. He's gonna build a simple amp based off the classic fender champ or deluxe. Champ? Really? ugh. A Deluxe (or Trainwreck Express Clone) would be a much better choice. If you want less power, just use a lower voltage output transformer. But the push-pull output stage gives a different kind of distortion. Imho, much nicer than the SE output of a Champ. idk, maybe he's talking about the much later champs that did have a push-pull output stage. Its going to be all tube, hand wired of course. It will have a tube rectifier, x3 - 12ax7 in the pre-amp section. and x2 - 6L6 power tubes. what makes it unique is that he will place a gain knobs in each stage of preamp and power, so you can add gain to all stages of the pre-amp section, Controls don't add gain. They reduce it. The way to add gain is to have more stages. With 2 12ax7s (not including the one for the PI), you could have up to 4 stages of gain in the preamp. That's more than plenty. Perhaps too much. That's one more than an Express uses. I wouldn't bother with controls on each and every stage. That's messy and mostly unnecessary. I'd use three stages and two controls. One after the first stage and one before the PI would be good. A post-PI master volume would be a better choice than the control before the PI. That's assuming Frank knows how to do a proper post-PI MV. Not the tone-sucking garbage that's commonly in use. but also you can add gain to the power section. giving you power tube saturation. Not really. There is enough "gain" in any Fender amp to get power tube saturation if you dime it. Depending on which output transformer I decide to buy, it can be 15 - 35 watts, I plan to get the 35 watt design. It wont have reverb or any other effects. I think you'd be much better off in the 15w (or less) class. And I'd use 6V6s rather than 6L6s. (they sound sweeter) Why less power? The only way to get "power amp distortion" is to drive the power amp past the maximum level require for full power. 15w overdriven is still plenty LOUD. I'm guessing your plan is to use your Super as a clean amp and this new little monster as a lead amp? |
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Post by morbe on Feb 2, 2012 7:43:56 GMT -5
Right well, its no longer going to be a hot rod. Im pretty sure its going to be a deluxe based or bassman based circuitry. I foget what circuitry he said but his point was that it was going to be a true classic fender in the sense of circuitry. Any how. What drew me to tue deluxe hotrod was the "fender tone". Im a huge fan of fender amps. He also said that he can rebuild with a vintage marshall electronics, the first electronics that was very simliar to fender. I was little concerned becuase ive never had an amp built. But he told me he could fix the amp and keep it a hotrod but when compared to cost and what the amp is worth it was decided its not worth it when they are so easy and cheap to get a hold of. On craigslist here in san antonio and austin area they go for 300 to 400 dollars. Maybe its just that im still a young and enthusiastic musician that needs more more more. But really folks i need help, im a tone junkie.
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 2, 2012 13:10:04 GMT -5
This finally hit me... Depending on which output transformer I decide to buy, it can be 15 - 35 watts, I plan to get the 35 watt design. Why do you need to buy a new output transformer? I thought it was your power transformer (6.3v winding) that failed. |
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Post by morbe on Feb 2, 2012 14:02:35 GMT -5
Sorry, about the output transformers there were two transfomers that were placed inside this amp and it killed them both! So two replacements that were purchased for this amp both died in it.
But none the less it going to he a completely new amp. Point to point, all tubd pretty simple i can imagine.
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Post by sumgai on Feb 2, 2012 16:59:49 GMT -5
morbe, So what you're doing is tossing out a somewhat expensive set of circuit components, and instead using a speaker cabinet and a chassis as a foundation for a whol new amp, is that about it, bunky?  If I got this right, I added up: Cost to fix - roughly $200 Cost to buy (used) replacement - $300 or more Cost to throw out the baby with the bath water - at least as much as above, and probably more Hmmm, must be some of that New Math goin' on here, 'cause I sure don't get the same answer that you seem to be working with..... I'd have the thing fixed, and then craigslist it mosh-kosh, I mean muy pronto!, before it can cause any more damage to my wallet. Or, slightly lesser sour taste in my mouth, I'd just sell it as-is for say, $150, and call it a 'fixer-upper' - let the buyer spend the 200 bananas to make it work, and call it Miller Time. (Or maybe, considering where you are, it'd be Dos Equis time. ) Either way, you want out from under this thing, with the least damage possible. Then I'd start saving my shekels for something that I really want, like a used Deluxe Reverb, or a clone thereof. Alternatively, I'd spend a bit less, and buy a kit. Lots of them out there, but ChrisK was always hot on AllenAmps, so they might bear closer investigation. That way, you know beyond all doubts that the thing is put together correctly. And if you want, you can still dicker with Frank The Technician for having him check your work, should you feel the need for such. Might be you should charge on over to Plano, TX, and check out Gerald Weber, see if he's got aything laying around that he doesn't want anymore.... HTH sumgai |
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She blew a fuse about 4 days ago and it was replaced, Then early this morning I was jamming and she blw another fuse. Thinking it was a fluke and replace the fuse again and 5 min later it blue again! So I Swapped out power tubes and She blew the second I took her off stand by. I took her to my amp guy and i=he said that there was a bad diode near the power tubes and I was thinking GREAT nothing serious. Then he called back with terrible news. The Amp no longer turns on. The Diode was obviously not the issue. The transformer will have to be replaced. He says. Its an easy fix I can do that my self I said. He agreed to give the amp back at no charge since he could not fix the issue. He claims that the 6.3 vac winding is out and possibly shorting to the internal core. 
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