Im just a bit confused by the lack of key anywhere xD But this was so interesting I had to make an account to clarify. Im buying new pups/tuners/bridge, everything really to mod a strat and I think this is the wiring I am gonna go with. Is the mid Rw/rp? Does it matter if it is? Would there be any differences if it isn't?
Not sure what you mean there, fireex0. John has a table of the various switch positions on the right-hand side of the first diagram in the thread. Is that what you mean by a "key"?
I mean theirs nothing that specifically says the polarity was relative to the pickups, More just me being reluctant and second guessing myself than a complaint or anything. Haha.
Yes, it is RWRP and yes, it matters, so as to optimize hum-cancelling. Note the colors of the coils on John's diagram, they are either tinted red or blue to indicate relative polarity.
Thanks! I am buying pickups while I'm in the US over the holidays and I have been toiling over whether I should get rw/rp or not. But I'm pretty set on this mod so I'm decided. I will post my results when I actually get around to it.
John used colors to indicate the polarity of each coil relative to the coil next to it. He specifically didn't include any statement of absolute polarity(i.e, "N coil" or "S coil")since that varies from one pickup manufacturer to the next.
If you buy a "matched set" of pickups from a single manufacturer (and use them in their designated positions), then the colors should work themselves out just fine as per the diagram. If you're mixing pups from different sources, then all bets are off, and you need to check coil polarities to be sure.
Hi, Ive been away the last few weeks, but newey has it covered. For this design to work correctly, its the relative polarities that count. You need a humbucker, a normal single and an RWRP single. THis would be as expected on any guitar with HSS, so should not be a problem to find as a set. it is not intended for noiseless singles though, as explained in the main post above.
but good luck. Once you get such a set, the first job is to work out which coils of the Hb are the same magnetic polarity as each single, but seeing if they repel face to face. then you will know how to place them.
First and foremost I must acknowledge and thank John for his help and time spent on my case.
Here are the initial technical specs: Fender Stratocaster HSS (Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates humbucker + 2 Texas Specials single coils) wired as an American Standard Version.
John originally worked on different specs for his SSM² project (ie Di Marzio or Fender humbucker). Because different manufacturers use different colour wires, I couldn't figure out which one was the North finish or the South finish. Not only John sent me an essential document with all the wire colours used by the mainstream pick-up manufacturers, he was also kind enough to send me a new schematic to match Seymour Duncan's wiring. After wiring everything according to my personalised schematic, I was eager to try my 10 new sounds. Unfortunately 6 positions were not working. Again John rescued me and gave me really precise advice to troubleshoot the short circuit.
I have been testing these 10 new sounds for more than a month now. At first it's a bit overwhelming it's like having two new strats to A/B with your original strat. I ended up making a table to summarise all the different positions. The result is astonishing; the humbucker can be split and used as a single coil, some sounds are thicker than the stock ones (bordering on Tele's territory?) some are thinner great for chicken scratching… On top of all that most position can be blended with the contiguous position by turning what was the middle tone pot.
I haven't finished yet exploring the endless possibilities of my new guitar but if you are wondering whether or not you should this mod, well…
Stop thinking get the components and do it. You will not regret it!
Last Edit: Apr 24, 2015 9:35:53 GMT -5 by francois
Hi francois, thankyou for posting and for your comments. Although you have been a member here for a while, let me be the first to welcome you publicly to GN2!
btw - You are not alone!, I know of two others who have also built this design. One, from the Marshall forum changed to the Revision B design, which puts blender control of single to series on the humbucker. Recently, ledvedder on Strat-talk has also built this, using a DiMarzio super distortion for the humbucker. Here is a link to his thread:
A common theme in getting these designs to work correctly has been to figure out specifically the phase and polarity details of the actual set of pickups to be used. It doesn't take all that long to do it once the methods are figured out, but it can be a bit of a journey to get there!
I put the Rev B in my Strat, but I have a couple of questions:
1) I would like the default strat settings when the blender is on 10. For that I would need to connect the cable from the switch to the other end of the blender pot. Would it work fine? The pot is 'no-load', so I don't know if switching the blending order would mess up the sound.
2) What would be the effect of using a regular pot for the blender? (no no-load)
Hi edu, welcome to GN2 and thanks for your interest in this scheme. Have you built it now?
being a SD pickup, you would need to translate wire colours from the Fender that I have (which seemed very similar to Dimarzio). also, if your bridge-side Hb coil is the one with same magnetism as the Middle, then swap th ewiring for the hb coils. Any combo of two pickup should be hum cancelling.
You can wire the blender the other way, and actually you don't really need a no-load, But if it is an audio pot, then the taper will not be good. It is a smooth blend with a normal audio taper as shown. If you reverse that, then it will be almost an instant change, not smooth. I'm very happy with how I have mine, 10 is louder than 1 which works for me. But for what you want, ideally a reverse audio (Type C) 250 k pot, wired with the other outer lug would give standard settings at 10 instead of 1. another good option would be to get a full size standard linear 100k pot and open it up to make it no-load, at the other end of the travel. No expensive and no risk to try it - it works.
I used this guide to translate the colors from your circuit to my seymour duncan.
The circuit said Fender/DiMarzio, and I thought it was the same. It seems Fender has the North and South switched when compared to the DiMarzio, that would explain why my North is connected as the South in the circuit. I'll fix that.
As per the pot, too bad I cannot just switch it, but I'll look into getting a type C or just leave it as it is. (I'm planing to add a piezo pick-up in the future, so I may put a push pull there instead anyways). You suggested a Linear as well, that confuses me a little bit. Why was it a log pot to begin with? I would think linear would be better for something like a crossover. I understand the log, linear and anti-log curves, but not really how they affect the behavior of the blender, do you have any link with info you can share for me to read?
The blend pot works by bypassing one coil when in series mode. The effect of this arrangement is that most of the tonal change happens between 0 resistance (fully bypassed, so only the other coil is active), up to about 20 to 30k. Then the rest of the change happens from there up to max pot resistance 250k. So using a log pot as shown, spreads this tonal range smoothly across the pot turn.
That Bs coil is the one nearest to bridge in your case isn't it? if so, it is the brightest coil but with the least volume and in a parallel combo, the volumes of the two coils get averaged rather than adding up. So neck alone could be louder.
But, just check the phase. Its correct if: Bs and neck are opposite magnetism, and also they produce a combo with less hum than neck alone. You can also check phase directly with a meter, see 'screwdriver pull off test' in the reference section.
Great, I'm glad you worked it through. My diagrams were all based on my guitar which has stock Fender pickups. Ive heard of polarity issues before when SD is subbed into a Fender and maybe the singles are different polarity as well. Your correlation will be a useful reference.
Hmmm, I can't upload image and I can't upload file
How are you trying to upload the image?
Attachments are disabled on the forum, so you can't simply attach a diagram to a post. You have to host the image elsewhere. There are 2 options. When you hit "reply", the reply window has 2 buttons- "upload file" is in the upper right corner, this requires you to first set up a Cloudinary account but is the preferred way. The second way uses the "Postimage upload" button in the upper left corner of the reply window. This second method does not require a registration.
That's the right sort of thing, subject to whatever is the best component recipe go make that wah sound that you want, which I'm not sure of. If you know what works, all good Jf not, maybe try a few arrangements across the guitar cord hot to ground, using some temporary aligator-clip lash-up.
JohnH, The Humbucker polarity in the diagram for the SSM2 rev. B seems wrong to me, or ......? edu wrote earlier:
Ok, polarities seem fine (I used an actual compass to check), but there may be an issue with Phase. Polarities are: Neck: North Middle: South Bs (The one close to the Middle): South Bn (The one close to the Bridge): North ------------------------------------------------- Isn't this wrong? Bn is usually the closest to the Middle and Bs is closest to the Bridge. Or am I missing something here?
The SSM2 Rev C. seems to have the polarity for the humbucker correct.
Last Edit: Apr 6, 2021 11:06:45 GMT -5 by crillev1
I don't see any issues with the diagrams. It's ok to place a humbucker either way around physically and this doesn't affect phase or wiring.
In a design like this, it does affect whether when used as a single coil, the coil nearer to bridge or to neck is used.
Designs A and B are based on how the pickups in my own guitar were installed by Fender. I like A best and its the one I play every day. It keeps a full humbucker sound available in position 1, no matter how the blend is set. The bridge single tone that it offers is the coil furthest from bridge, which has to be the same magnetic polarity as M in this design. This bridge coil sounds the best. Rev B changes things by extending tbe blender to position 1, giving the other bridge coil.
Rev C, which I didn't post myself, was a specific variation for Francois, to suit his SD pickuos and how he wanted to place them.
They all work though and none of them get into phase issues, provided relative polarities are checked.