Changing the pots on a Mexi Strat

[nowhereismyhome]

I've heard that if you're going to change the pickups you ought to change the pots as well, so I'm ready to buy some pickups and change the pots but I don't know ANYTHING about the quality of different sets of pots. Any advice?

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

I've heard that if you're going to change the pickups you ought to change the pots as well, so I'm ready to buy some pickups and change the pots but I don't know ANYTHING about the quality of different sets of pots. Any advice?

I believe many of the aftermarket parts suppliers carry CTS brand, and those are supposed to be pretty good.

I don't know how much you already know about some of the other "specs" of potentiometers, so here goes:
For a Strat (or anything with singlecoils), you'll probably want 250K ohm pots, in an audio taper. There is at least one tutorial on the 'Net that suggests if the guitar came with linear-taper pots, you might want to stick with those, or change them, whichever sounds better to you. He also suggests that some owners might prefer the sound of linear-taper replacements in a guitar that was manufactured with audio-taper originals, but I think we'll see some disagreement here over that opinion.

--
Doug C.

[nowhereismyhome]

I don't have any experience working on the guts of a guitar, which is why I posted in here about the pots. I know nothing about potentiometers, except that I was told that if I wanted to switch the pickups out of a strat that I should change out the pots as well. You mentioned a tutorial on how to change out the pots...any idea where I can find it? Thanks.

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

I don't have any experience working on the guts of a guitar, which is why I posted in here about the pots. I know nothing about potentiometers, except that I was told that if I wanted to switch the pickups out of a strat that I should change out the pots as well.

It'd be a good time to change the pots, while you have it apart, but unless the originals are scratchy or otherwise unpleasing, or you want to change their type or value, you might get by without it.

You mentioned a tutorial on how to change out the pots...any idea where I can find it?

All I can remember at this point is that it was an "overseas" site (AU, DE, UK), and it wasn't so much about the how-to (electromechanics) of it.

First, I'd suggest deciding what you want to replace the originals with, then amass those parts and your tools,and find a good place to do the work.
Print out copies of the stock diagram and schematic for your (type of) guitar. This will help you "find your way back" if anything goes awry. Look here , under "When All Else Fails."

There is probably an entire page on some site that's devoted to the whole process, but if we can't find anything, I can fake it until a real instructor shows up. ;D

[UnklMickey]

nowhereismyhome said:

I've heard that if you're going to change the pickups you ought to change the pots as well,...

ministratmaine said:

..He also suggests that some owners might prefer the sound of linear-taper replacements in a guitar that was manufactured with audio-taper originals, but I think we'll see some disagreement here over that opinion...

now for some sound advice. (pun intended)

the most important reason to replace your pots would be IF they are noisy. (to get rid of that crackling noise when you turn the knob)

reason #2 is if you want to change the loading on the pickups.
use a higher resistance on the volume pots to get more high frequencies, lower to tame them down. i refer to the amount of treble that is available before the tone cut is turned down from max.

reason #3 is if you want to change the rate of change vs the position of the knob

linear and audio taper pots don't sound different at all.

what is different is how they operate.

and at both minimum and maximum the resistance is the same.

whats different is what happens in between.

a linear taper is exactly as the name implies. at "5" there is 1/2 the total resistance from the wiper to the "low" end.

an audio taper at "5" has about 10 percent of the total resistance from wiper to low.

if you have a linear taper pot in the tone-cut and want to make it have a much larger change as you turn from "10" to "5", using an audio taper pot will accomplish that.

you will still have exactly the same sound, just in different places on knob.

more interesting reading about pots here:

www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm

[nowhereismyhome]

Wow, pretty cool link. So I'm a bit confused...if I'm understanding you correctly, audio taper pots turn up slowly until the last 3-4 numbers, at which point they increase dramatically. Linear taper pots increase evenly throughout its rotation. I assume, then that most guitars use audio taper pots, right? Seems like linear taper pots would be more useful, though, for specifically tinkering with your sound. So if I want linear taper pots (and I'm also buying new pickups), should I buy them pre assembled or is it easy to wire them together? Also, will using linear pots have any effect on the use of onboard effects?

[UnklMickey]

nowhereismyhome said:

Wow, pretty cool link. So I'm a bit confused...

...Also, will using linear pots have any effect on the use of onboard effects?

yes you are confused!

and it's my fault.

i forgot to mention that you're ears are "logarithmic".

that is to say, it takes ten times the power for something to sound twice as loud.

but ten times the voltage is NOT the same as ten times the power.

i'm sorry, but i'm sure by now i've got you completely confused.

i'm not doing it on purpose, it's just complicated.


long story short: in most audio applications, an audio taper pot is closer to what is needed than a linear.

i'm not sure what you're asking about in regards to the onboard effects.


________________________________________


it is no harder to wire new pickups to new pots, than to wire new pickups old pots.

if you can get a price on a pre-wired harness with the new pups that's cheap enough, it may be a good deal to get it pre-wired.

complete pickguard assemblies are way easy. and a great choice for people who are real sure about their soldering skills yet. if you've had lots of practice this is not an issue.

[nowhereismyhome]

I've modded about 4 pedals so far, so I'm not worried about my soldering skills, I'm just unfamiliar with the wiring schemes of pickups and pots. I'm also unsure of how to change out old pots (that is, assuming there is more to it that just desoldering the old and resoldering the new). Also, what about the input itself. Is that worth replacing?

[UnklMickey]

thats all there is.

just unsolder the wires, remove the knob, remove the mounting nut, then pull the old pot out. reverse the process with the new pot. hardest part here is keeping track of where the wires came from.

on the output jack, if it's noisy, or if it won't hold the cable from falling out, replace it. otherwise, if it ain't broke...

more likely, the selector switch on a strat or tele gets noisy as it ages. cleaning sometimes is enough. other times it needs replacement. if you need to replace it consider spending the extra 10 bucks for a 4 pole superswitch.

what kind of pups are you replacing. and what are you replacing them with?

unk

p.s.

i sent you a p.m.

[nowhereismyhome]

I'm replacing the stock pups on my '91 MIM strat with a set of Mighty Mite Alnicos that I just purchased on ebay. I want to customize my guitar as much as possible when I get the thing open, though, and tone is a big concern of mine. Any particular tools I need, besides the obvious soldering equipment and a screwdriver? Also, does taking the strings off the neck cause the neck to warp? Thanks for all your help so far.

[UnklMickey]

i sent you a personal message before, but you never opened it.

i guess you haven't figured out how that part works yet.

so, i replied to your question in another P.M.

that way you'll have to figure out the messaging stuff.


{bugs bunny mode:} "...ain't i a stinka?..."



unk

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

I'm replacing the stock pups on my '91 MIM strat with a set of Mighty Mite Alnicos that I just purchased on ebay.

Cool.

I want to customize my guitar as much as possible when I get the thing open, though, and tone is a big concern of mine.

Ditto. I'd like to only have to unstring/restring mine once, although that might well not happen. (Murphy's Law, et seq.) I'm planning to replace the nut and saddles while it's torn down for the electronic stuff.

Any particular tools I need, besides the obvious soldering equipment and a screwdriver?

Since I now have at least two guitars that I'm going to be doing some "surgery" on (and maybe have to open each of those up more than once), I bought an output jack wrench and a toggle switch wrench from Stew-Mac. If they help save the guitar's finish (and reduce aggravation for me), they're worth the price.

[nowhereismyhome]

"Since I now have at least two guitars that I'm going to be doing some "surgery" on (and maybe have to open each of those up more than once), I bought an output jack wrench and a toggle switch wrench from Stew-Mac. If they help save the guitar's finish (and reduce aggravation for me), they're worth the price."

Tell me if those things are worth buying, because they're freakin expensive. If I can yank the suckers out with a pair of needle nosed pliers, I'll save my 35 bucks, thank you very much. You wouldn't happen to know anything about replacing the nut or the pots on a Mexi strat, would you? I'm trying to find the best pots to buy to replace the ones on my Mexi strat. Recommendations are what I'm looking for, mostly...

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

"Since I now have at least two guitars that I'm going to be doing some "surgery" on (and maybe have to open each of those up more than once), I bought an output jack wrench and a toggle switch wrench from Stew-Mac. If they help save the guitar's finish (and reduce aggravation for me), they're worth the price."
Tell me if those things are worth buying, because they're freakin expensive.

Depends; and yup. By the first "answer," I mean if you can accomplish the job to your satisfaction with tools you already own, then go for it. I've often said that nobody will ever mistake me for a carpenter, electrician, mechanic, or plumber, and I can safely add luthier to that list. So I just decided to grab every possible advantage.

If I can yank the suckers out with a pair of needle nosed pliers, I'll save my 35 bucks, thank you very much.

Nuthin' wrong with that. But I even bought the Knob and Bushing Puller. Don't look at the price on that, or we'll be calling the Sticker Shock Ambulance for you.

You wouldn't happen to know anything about replacing the nut or the pots on a Mexi strat, would you? I'm trying to find the best pots to buy to replace the ones on my Mexi strat. Recommendations are what I'm looking for, mostly...

For the pots, I think anything by CTS is good. Some of the custom builders use 'em. Click on "Passive Mods" in the pulldown list on the left of www.guitar-mod.com, and check out his RG500D. The average CTS pot will cost less, depending what you get and where you buy it.
I'm going to try replacing the nuts on both my Squier Bullet and my Johnson JS-050 with Graph-Tech PT-5000-00's. I figure pretty much anything by Squier is about the same as an "import Strat," and the Johnson's gotta be pretty close to that. That nut will work on straight or curved slots, by leaving or removing a spacer from the bottom of it.
These guys have pretty good prices on Graph-Tech parts, and this link will take you right to a pic and description: guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/product/GTN5000. From this page, Graph-Tech has a little tutorial on removing the old nut: www.graphtech.com/newnl.htm

[nowhereismyhome]

Ok, so if I remove the old nut, how do I put in a new one? Do I have to glue it in? I think I'm going to buy a pre-assembled CTS pots kit on eBay later tonight. There are a few of them for sale. I am now officially replacing my pickups, my pots, and my pickguard, and adding a new back plate. I'm looking at knobs and nuts (sounds dirty, eh?) and possibly changing out the tuners, bridge, saddle, etc, but I think those things might come later. I'm actually more concerned with getting my guitar set up decently and then adding in some onboard effects...built in preamps, etc. Anybody know anything about onboard guitar effects? As in, have you ever used them before? I can't seem to find a single person on the web who has used them before.

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

Ok, so if I remove the old nut, how do I put in a new one? Do I have to glue it in? I think I'm going to buy a pre-assembled CTS pots kit on eBay later tonight.

Way cool.

I am now officially replacing my pickups, my pots, and my pickguard, and adding a new back plate. I'm looking at knobs and nuts (sounds dirty, eh?)

Yeah, I'm surprised you didn't get a "%" for that. The AutoCensor must be napping. ;D

and possibly changing out the tuners, bridge, saddle, etc, but I think those things might come later.

Now that is some serious "surgery." Not quite like the old lumberjack who said, "That axe {as in "a large hatchet"} is on its fourth handle and third head, but it's the same one I started with, twenty years ago."

Anybody know anything about onboard guitar effects? As in, have you ever used them before? I can't seem to find a single person on the web who has used them before.

I've seen the ones listed on eBay, usually a mid-boost or something similar. If you can come up with a brand name for those, there might be some reviews on Harmony Central or elsewhere.
Other than that, all I know about is the built-in compressor that Roger McGuinn mentions in the video "The 12-String Guitar of Roger McGuinn." He points it out on his Rickenbacker 360-12RM. I don't know if all of that model have one, or just his.

Then there was one company back in the Seventies or Eighties who advertised in Guitar Player. I think they made little modules that went into the back of the guitar body. Can't remember the brand, but it was probably the one somebody mentioned in an earlier reply. I think you could only use one module at a time because of space issues. I seem to recall one of their ads saying that Carlos Santana used one of those guitars, and called it his "rainbow."
I've seen numerous acoustics with EQ sliders near where the neck joins the body (the bout?). A hollow body probably makes that easier to do.

"It's hard to be nostalgic when you can't remember anything."

[nowhereismyhome]

Well, that's more information than anyone has given me so far about the built in effects. I got the idea recently, actually, when my dad told me he had this brilliant idea of taking the guts out of one of his guitar pedals and somehow affixing it to his guitar, so he could access the pedal from his guitar. His idea was cruder though, as he was thinking of taking his Klon Centaur apart and putting its guts in a guitar (impossible). Onboard effects look pretty cool though. I'll probably buy one sooner or later, just not sure which one to get! So many decisions in life.

[Mini-Strat_Maine]

nowhereismyhome said:

Ok, so if I remove the old nut, how do I put in a new one? Do I have to glue it in?

Didn't mean to schluff off that part of your reply. The question might get a better response by itself, in the Lutherie section. But I'm always happy to share what little I know. ;D
I thought a nut would be okay as a "gravity fit," if pressed snugly into the slot, but it dawns on me now that bending notes and all that other stuff we do could knock it askew. I just checked my copy of "Guitar Player Repair Guide," and Dan Erlewine has several pages of how-to info in there. I'm going to read it a couple of times before taking any tools to either of my guitars.
But yeah, hide glue or white/yellow glue (Tite-bond). I'll let you know via PM what Graph-Tech includes for instructions with theirs, if you decide to use those.