|
|
Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Nov 30, 2005 2:30:14 GMT -5
I finally got up the nerve to pull the back cover off my Jay Turser Hawk12 and look at the wiring. Man, there is a lotta stuff crammed into a small space.  Every wire, regardless of diameter, seems to have an insulated wire and a bare wire, apparently the shield, inside. Each and every shield seems to be soldered to ground at both ends. The cap on the tone pot is marked "2A223J," which I read somewhere is a .022µF, 5%. There is no way I can draw this, so I hope I can explain it in some decipherable way. "Top" will mean toward the neck in this description. Looking from the back of the guitar, the pickup selector switch has three solder lugs on its left side, and a single center lug on the other side. Any wires to/from that switch have their bare wires soldered to that lug. Of the others, the "top" and "bottom" lugs are connected to the neck volume pot and the tone pot, respectively. There are two wires from the center lug, one to the bridge volume, and the other to the cut switch. Clear as mud, so far? The cut switch has six lugs, which I'll label thus (again, neck up, looking from the back of the guitar): 1--2 3--4 5--6 Each odd one is jumpered to the even one across from it. The yellow and green pairs from each pickup go to #3. (Forgot to mention that their red wires go to the respective volume controls, and the white and bare to ground.) The only other connection on that switch is from the #2 lug to the "left center" lug of the pup selector, the same lug that's connected to the tone pot. Lug #6 (and because of the jumper, #5) seem to be connected toward the switch's mounting hole, I assume going to ground. I hope somebody can puzzle this one out. -- Doug C. |
|
|
|
Post by jimplaysguitar on Nov 30, 2005 10:02:49 GMT -5
Hmmm, that confuses me. Every "stock" wired guitar I've had, I've ripped it's guts out, and wired it how i wanted it. It was when i first picked up a soldering iron in 11th grade Electronics class, I knew it was the way to go, my dream was that one day, I'd be a qaulified guitar tech. Sorry, completely off the subject, caught up in my dreams again. Anyway, yes, that completely confuses me, Doug. Lol.  What i'd do in that situation, is wire it the way i know best, with a Gibson type 3 way selector, master tone, volume for each pickup, and then the switch. That's a coil cut switch right? If so which coil does it leave on? I'm guessing the two inside coils. Are you modding anything, or just curious about how it works? Jim |
|
|
|
Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Nov 30, 2005 10:39:23 GMT -5
Anyway, yes, that completely confuses me, Doug. Lol. Thanks anyway, Jim, 'cuz now I don't feel so much like the Lone Ranger.  We could do the old Steve Martin/Bill Murray SNL routine, " What the hell is that " snltranscripts.jt.org/79/79awhatthehell.phtml |
|
|
|
Post by jimplaysguitar on Nov 30, 2005 10:43:43 GMT -5
I guess you didn't see my post after i edited it  Uaually it's the threadstarter that complains about people going off the subject, and you're there doing it yourself, lol. Jim |
|
|
|
Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Nov 30, 2005 11:25:53 GMT -5
Okay, back on topic. (Back to some serious levity. Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk. {/Curly mode}) What i'd do in that situation, is wire it the way i know best, with a Gibson type 3 way selector, master tone, volume for each pickup, and then the switch. I might do that, but right now, it's more of an "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing. I'm pretty sure the smaller switch is supposed to be a coil cut, but from the first day I had the Hawk12, I've wondered why it had three positions. I always thought a cut switch would have two positions, "cut and not cut" for whichever pup (or both) was selected. I don't think I'm quite ready to investigate the innards of the pickups to find out which coils are which. I'd be happier if I knew what make they are and could look that up on the GuitarElectronics chart. The ohm readings I got over all nine possible settings of the two switches mostly made sense, except that the one with the most audio output was 3.49K. Mostly idle curiosity at this point. I read the reviews for the guitar on Harmony Central before bidding on it, and it sounded like a good deal. I still think it is. One reviewer described one switch setting as "faint and tinkley," but I've found the Hawk12 to be very pleasing to my ear. Back before you joined up here, I spoke with a tech guy at Jay Turser, and he said he didn't know what all the switch settings were supposed to do. I think I'll just remember what sound it gets in any setting, and jam away. |
|
|
|
Post by UnklMickey on Nov 30, 2005 12:14:51 GMT -5
puzzle (mostly) solved.
the wiring scheme on your Hawk is "percented"-up!
from your description on this thread, and the resistance readings from the previous thread, it appears that two of the coils from your neck and bridge are always in parallel.
you haven't explicitly stated, but i can %ume that when the coil-cut switch is in the down position, it doesn't matter what position the selector is in, it sounds the same.
there are other twists to the results caused by this wiring, suffice it to say, it probably couldn't have been done worse.
fortunately it probably won't be to hard to straighten this mess out in one or two tries.
when we come up with a final solution on how to wire this "correctly", you might even want to contact Turser and let them know you're willing to let them in on the details -- for a price!
unk
|
|
|
|
Post by UnklMickey on Nov 30, 2005 12:43:29 GMT -5
the first thing i would suggest that you do is to remove the jumper from lugs 3 and 4 of the cut switch. then move one yellow and green pair from lug 3 to lug 4. (if you can, determine which ones come from the same pup. if not, just pick one yellow and one green. we'll test to determine if they are from the same pup.
that should get rid of most of the "evil" here.
if you decide you actually like it better the way it was, (i seriously doubt you will) just replace the jumper.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Nov 30, 2005 12:45:20 GMT -5
when we come up with a final solution on how to wire this "correctly", you might even want to contact Turser and let them know you're willing to let them in on the details -- for a price! Hee, hee! Cool! 'Course, I'll give you a large percentage of that. ;D If I ever do decide to rewire that, I'll probably go for a series/parallel option as well as selectable ("addressable") cut. BTW, the pots in that, as best I can tell, are all Alps 500K audio, and they look pretty small. I'm not particularly keen on replacing them, but if something like this will fit comfortably, it'd save drilling some holes. static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectronics/-/cpm250pd_500Heck, I might even go for some phase changing, just so I can do the intro to "Wish You Were Here" the way JohnH does it. |
|
|
|
Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Nov 30, 2005 12:53:39 GMT -5
(if you can, determine which ones come from the same pup. if not, just pick one yellow and one green. we'll test to determine if they are from the same pup. Actually, the wiring is fairly neat, and both yellow/green pairs are easily traced. "Something wicked this way comes." |
|
|
|
Post by UnklMickey on Nov 30, 2005 12:55:32 GMT -5
...Hee, hee! Cool! 'Course, I'll give you a large percentage of that. ;D i'd settle for half -- in cash! .:lol:. |
|
"
