Carlo Robelli Strat Re-wiring Mod Question

[khenemetheru]

Hi everyone!

You all seem knowledgeable and, well, I don't know the first thing about what I'm looking at with guitar wiring. Anyway, I have a Carlo Robelli Strat that I got in trade a while back that has either bad wiring or a bad pot, don't care which. I want to rewire with all new parts, and have been poring over diagrams for days to get the exact options I want out of it in the process. Unfortunately, as I said, no idea what I'm looking at. I know electronics basics, but circuit design is not my forte. I found this one, which seems to be what I want (not my design, not even sure anymore where I got it so if someone knows who to credit I'll add it in).

The guitar is an HSS strat with a standard 5 way selector, one volume and two tone pots. I want to wire the guitar as the diagram attached shows, but I want to ask some questions. I have a CRL 5-way selector from StewMac instead of an import switch, but the rest of the parts are as shown.

First, am I right in assuming that with the pot pulled, it's running the slug (N) coil as single, and down the humbucker is fully engaged, but in both cases the humbucker is active only for the selector positions where it is supposed to be active? In other words, is this what I'd get with this circuit:

UP                                                          DOWN
1. Bridge Slug (N) Coil                       1. Bridge HB Dual Coil
2. Middle & Bridge Slug (N) Coil      2. Middle & HB Dual Coil
3. Middle                                              3. Middle
4. Middle & Neck                                 4. Middle & Neck
5. Neck                                                  5. Neck

with the humbucker deactivated in positions 3-5 either way? I want to be sure this circuit works as described so I came here to get checked out.

Second, is there any way with modifications to this circuit to add the passing lane mod to the humbucker with an additional mini-toggle switch?

Third, is there any benefit to adding a second 0.022uF capacitor to Tone 2, and how would that alter the wiring path?

Your help is much appreciated, as I'd like to do this once and not have to keep messing with it... or messing it up. Thanks in advance!
- Bill

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[newey]

KMT-

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

First, am I right in assuming that with the pot pulled, it's running the slug (N) coil as single

Correct.

and down the humbucker is fully engaged

Yes.

but in both cases the humbucker is active only for the selector positions where it is supposed to be active?

Yes. The Black wire from the HB connects to the 5-way and is switched by the switch, so that the pickup is disconnected in positions 3, 4 and 5.

Second, is there any way with modifications to this circuit to add the passing lane mod to the humbucker with an additional mini-toggle switch?

I'm not sure what you mean by the "passing lane mod". Is this like a so-called "blower switch" or "solo switch" that bypasses the V and T pots to give added output? If that's what you mean, then yes it can be added via a mini-toggle switch. A DPDT "On-On" will be needed if that's what you're after.

Third, is there any benefit to adding a second 0.022uF capacitor to Tone 2, and how would that alter the wiring path?

Fender has Strat tone pots share a capacitor to save money. Capacitors are cheap, but Fender makes a lot of Strats, so doubling the cap count adds up. I always use separate caps, but the only real reason to do so is to be able to use a different cap value for the other tone pot. For example, on this diagram, the bridge HB gets a tone pot (contrary to regular Strat SSS wiring, where there is no tone pot for the bridge pickup). An .047µf cap is perhaps a better choice for a HB, although it's certainly a matter of personal preference either way. But with separate caps, you can vary the values, that's the real benefit to wiring the tone controls with individual caps.

To do so, you simply eliminate the wire that connects the 2 tone pots together and wire separate caps for each tone pot exactly as shown for the one pot.

[khenemetheru]

Thanks newey for the welcome and reply!

I get you on the caps, that would basically end up with the .047µf on tone 2 and the .022µf on tone 1 with no jumper. Easy enough, and I have another .022µf if I want to go that route after I hear it.

And yeah, the "blower switch" is what I mean, I see various wirings for it called the "Passing Lane" mod, I guess to keep with Fender's hotrod naming scheme... I have a couple diagrams that show a DPDT wired for it attached (that actually show the 5-way switch I have too), I assume I can clip that in as shown in the first diagram, on the two legs of the volume control and the left side A lug of the 5-way, without disrupting anything, but is the other diagram better for adding to the circuit I'm using? (I know, it's a hodgepodge)

Thanks again!

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[sumgai]

khenemetheru,

Welcome to The NutzHouse!

The basic answer to your question of which is better (or more advantageous) is really a matter of taste - yours, in fact.  The first diagram allows you to select which pickup/combo will be "blown" past the volume and tone controls; the second diagram "blows" only the bridge past those controls, plus the 5-way switch is out of the picture.  Your call.

May 2, 2016 10:11:02 GMT -5 khenemetheru said:

(I know, it's a hodgepodge)

Hey, you're in The NutzHouse now - hodgepodge is our calling card!   For further proof, I refer you to this little bon mot:

The First Law of GNutz2: "Leave no lug unsoldered."^©

(The Beta Particle Bombarder, 2010)

HTH

sumgai

[khenemetheru]

Thanks sumgai !

I see that now, in the first one the DPDT switch acts in lieu of the jumper between lug A left and lug A right on the 5-way switch, in the second the switch is cut in between the HB black and lug 1 left on the 5-way. Got it. Cool!

- Bill

[newey]

The second diagram is what we (and others, no doubt) have called the "bridge blower", a/k/a a "solo switch". The idea is, one is a-rhythming along and then wishes to "fly solo", so the switch gets the trebl-ish bridge pickup direct to output, bypassing the 5-way and the V and T controls. Hit the switch, blast that solo . . .

If you use the search function for "bridge blower" and go back about 5-6 years, you'll probably pull what we've said on the subject. Bypassing of one or more of the pots is a very old idea- the original 50's Fender Esquire wiring featured a bypass of the tone control.

The first version, as sg noted, gets you whatever is selected by the 5-way sent directly to output, no V or T included.

Bypassing the pots will give more highs and more volume; another option is to bypass only the tone pot(s), thus leaving oneself with some control over the level without a walk to the amp. This sort-of "splits the difference" compared with bypassing both pots. A bit more oomph, not as dramatic.

[khenemetheru]

Ok guys, I'm still not decided but you gave me lots to read up on there and I think I'm good to go. Parts finally all came in so I'll make a choice and get back if things sound funny LOL!

- Bill

[khenemetheru]

So here is ultimately what I ended up with (diagram pickup wire colors adjusted for the ones I bought) - Everything worked out except the "blower switch" as there literally was no room to put the mini toggle in anywhere that was useful on the pickguard. Also a standard Strat pickguard didn't fit, so no customizing that. BUT, it sounds way better. Pickups were Mighty Mite standard Alnico pickups, and even though the wiring ended up being a real rats' nest due to space and lousy eyesight, I'm happy with the result. I may swap that second cap as suggested, but so far I like how it sounds.

Still adjusting the pickup height a bit, but that's another thread perhaps.

Thanks again guys!

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