6-way switch, TBX, and T-Armonds

[bigdon62]

I'm a big fan of the Phostenix wiring for "Tele 5-Way SHOoP with Modified TBX Tone Control", I now have it installed in two of my guitars. The original schematic is no longer available on Google Drive so I'm re-posting a copy I had saved.

My Challenge
1. I'd like to apply essentially the same wiring to an old archtop
   (two pickups, one vol, one TBX tone, one pickup switch)
2. I'll use a Free-way 6-way ultra switch instead of a 5-way Tele super switch
3. For the 6th position, maybe have series out of phase
      (I'm open to suggestions here)
4. I'll be using T-Armonds (TVJones version of Gretsch Dearmonds) instead of Tele pickups - so how should the values on the caps, resistors, and volume pot change?

I primarily play blues and rockabilly, sometimes a little country, but I also appreciate the versatility to occasionally dial it back and do more traditional jazz. The Phostenix wiring gave me that.

Also, although I've been lurking here for a while, I'm really the village idiot of guitar electronics. I take my ideas to my guitar tech and he puts my electronics together. So I am tragically at your mercy on this.

Thanks in advance for your patience and support.

BigDon62

[bigdon62]

So for the volume pot, I'm guessing a 500k might be the right value. 

Maybe a .047 for the tone cap, effectively treating the T-Armonds more like dark humbuckers than single coils - since they ARE darker than most tele/ strat single coils.

No changes to the resistors. Do the other caps remain the same too?

If "Yes" to all the above, then I still need to figure out how to use the 6th position, and how to do the wiring on the Free-way Ultra.

[reTrEaD]

Nov 24, 2017 22:53:29 GMT -5 bigdon62 said:

2. I'll use a Free-way 6-way ultra switch instead of a 5-way Tele super switch

Good luck with that. You might be able to get all six combinations you desire but it won't be anything close to a direct translation. The 4P5T Superswitch is very easy to work with. The Freeway, not so much.

The "Ultra" version isn't really a 4P6T switch. It's more competent than a 2P6T, though. You can think of it as a 4P6T switch with the poles joined together in pairs.

www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7494275415/3X3-05+Schematic.pdf

If you'll have any chance of success, you'll need to rethink the switch connections in a different manner than the Superswitch.

One pickup will have one of its winding ends connected to ground.
The other pickup will have both of its winding ends free to connect wherever needed.
One "pole" of the Freeway will be connected to hot and provide one or two paths, as needed.
The other "pole" will not be connected.
Rather, that side of the switch will employ just the "throws" which are connected in pairs.
In each position a pair of throws will connect one part of the circuit to another.

Again, good luck.

[bigdon62]

I'm willing to try figuring something out but "good luck" isn't very helpful.

I'm pretty sure this shouldn't be impossible, and I'm pretty sure the necessary smarts exist here on this forum, but ... I'll pay guitarelectronics.com to figure it out. This was less about saving a buck and more about sharing what I thought might be a cool idea.

[JohnH]

Nov 25, 2017 11:23:07 GMT -5 bigdon62 said:

Luck won't get it done.

Your posts are usually pretty helpful but that one, not so much. I already said I'm an electronics idiot. I'm willing to try figuring something out but "luck" and talking way over my head isn't gonna do it.

I'm pretty sure this shouldn't be impossible, and I'm pretty sure the necessary smarts exist here on this forum, but ... I'll pay guitarelectronics.com to figure it out.

This was less about saving a buck and more about sharing what I thought might be a cool idea.

A little disappointed in that response.

bigdon - your response is 'disappointing'

GN2 is not a free online service for producing custom wiring schematics on demand. We discuss, we try to understand and sometimes a design emerges. reTrEaD is pointing out that what you seek is actually more complex than you might have expected. Personally, I wouldn't tackle it and would not have been able to offer the insight that he has posted for you. BTW, the chances of guitarelectonics.com being able to successfully solve that one are close to zero, but I will be pleased if I am proved wrong.

But please stick around if you'd like to keep talking, your intentions are good, it's just that its not so simple.

[bigdon62]

> BTW, the chances of guitarelectonics.com being able to successfully solve that
> one are close to zero, but I will be pleased if I am proved wrong.

I might try tossing it to TVJones or SD Custom Shop (they make dynasonics too), and including retread's guidance. I'll admit I've tried that route before without much luck (dead silence ... then SD responded a few months later to suggest trying a different shop. That was working with P-Rails which SD Custom Shop should know better than anybody else). Given my meager skills, my options are limited.

But I'm still left wondering why it should be so difficult. Three of the positions are the standard positions for a 3-way switch. Another one is in series. Why would that be difficult? Now I'm thinking the 6th position might be parallel and bypass vol and tone - again, shouldn't be difficult. So that leaves the half-out-of-phase which granted, is a little less common.

Or I could just go with another 5-way superswitch which would look a little out of place, but certainly do-able.

There are tons of diagrams for 5-way superswitches. The 6-way, not so much - it's more difficult just to google on (lots of false hits because of the Free-way Ultra name). It'll be nice when we have libraries of said schematics.

[JohnH]

We can run with this a little...

A 5 way super-switch is a very versatile thing, four completely separate fully functional 5-way switches ganged together, with no pre-existing internal connections. Its also very easy to understand what it does. That means that folks such as Phostenix, and ourselves when we get the spark, can hook it up in multiple ways to make it do what we want.

With the free-way switches, firstly they are not nearly as well understood by most of us, and they are not as versatile. They are designed with more of a specific purpose in mind. Definitely, if something like this design can be based on one of these switches, then it will be the more complex 'Ultra' version posted above. The pdf linked partly explains it. It appears to only have two independent sides, A and B, each connecting to pairs of white and grey lugs. Having read the diagram, I'm still not clear if the grey lugs are permanently connected to their corresponding white lugs, or is that only when those lugs are selected by the switch. Also, there are the mysterious Ta and Tb pads, that get connected in between settings, but only some of them.

A full understanding of the switch is needed before figuring how else to wire it up to do a specific new design.

[bigdon62]

So the switch seems to be the real challenge here. The TBX and Dynasonics might just be a matter of experimenting with a few cap and resistor values.

The first diagram here depicts a tele with a bridge HB and the same Free-way Ultra switch:
www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7524784615/3X3-05+2PU+2Pot+A.pdf?t=1499335068

Positions 4, 5, and 6 are our standard neck, parallel, and bridge positions, then Position 1 is the in-series config. 1, 5, and 6 only connect to a single coil of the HB. So it seems like this might be a good start ... maybe?

The first diagram here depicts two HBs but I'm hoping it can still be relevant:
www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7524785115/3X3-05+2PU+2Pot+PP+B.pdf?t=1499335068

Position 6 is parallel out-of-phase ... my half-out-of-phase should just add a cap, I believe. Across which lugs ... no idea.

Is this helping?

BTW, I may be an idiot but I can manipulate PPT and imaging software, so ... as this becomes clearer (to me) I can probably mock up diagrams for discussion. As mentioned before, I'm hoping this could become a schematic that others like to use, like the Phostenix I started with.

[bigdon62]

Ok, remember this is coming from the village idiot of the guitar electronics world, but I've been staring at the first diagram here:
www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7524784615/3X3-05+2PU+2Pot+A.pdf?t=1499335068

If we remove the SOUTH Start and Finish wires from the diagram, we effective have two SC instead of an SH config, and positions 1, 4, 5, 6 do exactly what I want.

Next step: How do we replicate position 5 at position 2, but bypassing the volume and tone? That gets me the parallel bypass setting.

[JohnH]

So I had a look at those, and agree with reTrEaD about the switch, it has four poles, but they are joined in pairs. that's the problem: These pole pairs (of which there are two, A and B) can therefore only connect to two places in the circuit. To do series parallel and also phase switching, needs switch connection to three points. Hard to explain....

One option might be to use the freeway for versatile switching of all in phase, eg B, B+N, N, and when you pull back the switch the B+N changes to series, then have another push/pull switch on the volume to get phase reverse. It would be quite an intuitive scheme.

[bigdon62]

I'm not quite sure what you just said but it didn't sound good. But I'm not ready to give up yet.

I just modified one of the Free-way diagrams. Four of the six positions already do what they're supposed to do. Position 2 should replicate position 5 but bypass the vol and tone pots. Is that something we can figure out? 

[JohnH]

Ok, I still don't really understand the Ta and Tb intermittent pads, but I now think the general idea is possible, including the phase switching within the Freeway. May have to wait a bit but Ill try to do a sketch in the next week or so.(I have 330 university exams to mark next week)

For those who might feel like picking it up sooner, I think:

Bridge has ground side hard-wired to ground.
Neck has no fixed connections.
One pair (say A) of the the Freeway poles go to hot, and connect one or two pickup wires to hot
The other pair (say B) form a 'patch-lead' to connect various things together, sometimes neck ground (or neck hot for out of phase) to ground, sometimes bridge hot to neck ground side for series.

[sumgai]

bigdon,


Hi, and welcome to The NutzHouse!

I can explain why you can't get that final desired circuit from either version of the Freeway.

In essence, you want to do two entirely different things here - control the selection of pickups, and bypass the V/T controls at will. The problem here is this: in order to successfully bypass the controls, you need a DPDT switch; one pole of the DPDT will control whether the pickup selection goes to the controls or to the output jack, and the other pole will select whether the output jack receives its signal from the controls or directly from the pickup selector. While the Freeway can pull off some fancy-dancing tricks, it can't operate two totally separate functions.

To clarify, here's how a true bypass circuit should look:


This is commonly known as a True Bypass function, and is considered "best practice".  Note that if we don't use two poles, either the overall tone will be affected (in a negative way), or the volume control will continue to function anyway - or both!

Combine that thinking with the fact that you also want to use the 2P6T for pickup selection at the same time, and you're outta luck, sorry to say - a minimum of 2 poles are required to control which pickup goes where.  The bottom line is that no matter how much 'under the hood' connectivity the Freeway can give you, the fact that these two functions are totally separate culls the Freeway from the usability index.... at least for your currently stated set of desires.

HTH

sumgai

[bigdon62]

Ok that makes sense. Now I'm thinking about maybe putting the bypass on a volume push-pull, but I'll let that go for now.

I just edited the previous diagram to suggest Series out of Phase (rather than bypass) for the 2nd position.

I pulled the following image from the Free-way repository. Position 5 shows parallel out of phase (albeit on two HBs), so out of phase should be do-able.

Does this help?

One other question: Would it make things easier if I put the parallel half out of phase at position 2 instead of position 3?

[JohnH]

I think with that switch, once an idea is worked out, then you can have any the combinations in any order you want, just by wiring to the 1 to 6 lugs in appropriate order.

So to move along, how about you do a couple of things:

Work out the best order of the combos you want, in order 1 to 6, based on the Freeway switch positions and references
Make a clean blank diagram with no wires on it at all, with switch, pots, jack and your pickups represented with their actual wire colours emerging from them. Me or someone else can then doodle wiring on it.

Still puzzled by TA and TB tabs...anyone figure them out?

[sumgai]

John,

Go back and look at the PDF supplied (linked) by reTrEaD in his first post. Therein we see TA and TB explained as 'transition pads'. The theory is that moving from 1 to 2, or 2 to 3, etc. is 'break before make', wherease going across, 1 to 4, etc., is 'make before break'. These two pads can take advantage of that factoid... or so I gather from the spec sheet.

EDIT: The embarrassed me got that backwards - it should be 'make before break' for the vertical transitions, and 'break before make' for the lateral transitions.  Sorry, can't blame the cat for that one.

My only question is "Why?".  Must be some pretty imaginative people over there, eh?  Either that, or they're smoking something not available to us Nutz......

sumgai

[JohnH]

Hi Sumgai, yes I had read that too. But as you also question, 'Why?' What are they seeing as important about it? Those pads are wired up into many of their standard designs, so there must be something very important that they achieve. maybe reducing inter-position crackles? What would we miss by ignoring this feature?

[sumgai]

John,

Given that I got it backwards (see my EDIT above), I can see now that in going from, say series to parallel or similar, one wouldn't want the contacts to all be in connection during the transition.  Similarly, such a move could potentially introduce entirely different pickups to the signal.  I'd guess that the tone arriving at the output jack under such circumstances might not be desirable by the player, so they've taken a step to help prevent that.

However, I admit that I haven't studied this switch in detail, nor any of the wiring diagrams (don't these people understand the reason for schematics? ) - there could well be some new insights to be gained here, I dunno.

sumgai

[bigdon62]

> Make a clean blank diagram with no wires on it at all

See below. 

Phostenix's description of "half out of phase": The pickups are out-of-phase, but with a cap & resistor in series with the Neck pickup and a resistor in series with the Bridge pickup. The cap in series with the Neck pickup is what makes it "half" out-of-phase and the resistors help give a little more quack to the sound. The goal is to get a sound similar to a Strat in-between tone.

[reTrEaD]

Nov 26, 2017 16:00:22 GMT -5 JohnH said:

Hi Sumgai, yes I had read that too. But as you also question, 'Why?' What are they seeing as important about it? Those pads are wired up into many of their standard designs, so there must be something very important that they achieve. maybe reducing inter-position crackles? What would we miss by ignoring this feature?

John, there's an inset labeled "ELECTRICAL TRANSITION" in the link I provided in my earlier post.
www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7494275415/3X3-05+Schematic.pdf

It's clear as mud. Each time I read it, I see a slightly different interpretation.
As best I can discern, The TA and TB pads are only connected to anything when the switch lever is moved across the transverse axis. It seems as if their purpose is to prevent open-circuit conditions during these transitions and mitigate any adverse effects during those switch movements.

But due to the less than clear description, I reckon the only way to be certain is to have one of these switches in-hand and make thorough checks with an ohmmeter. With a $60 pricetag for a switch I'm unlikely to ever use myself, that won't be me making the checks.

fwiw, I made a series of maps for 10 configurations based upon my speculation of how this switch works.
In each case, the fine red lines represent connections that would be made via the "CA" connection to hot.
The fine blue lines represent using the 'B#' pairs, without connecting the BA pad to anything.

Obviously only 6 configurations are possible with the Freeway, so it's just a question of picking any 6 of the 10.





Notes:

The two P-Hoop configurations should sound considerably different from each other.
The one on the left has the Neck pickup connected via a capacitor so I would expect less bass.
The one on the right has the Bridge pickup connected via a capacitor so I would expect as much bass as the Neck only.

The two S-Hoop configurations are functionally equivalent.
In both cases, the Neck pickup is bypassed by a capacitor.

[bigdon62]

Nov 27, 2017 16:14:44 GMT -5 reTrEaD said:

... the only way to be certain is to have one of these switches in-hand and make thorough checks with an ohmmeter.

As luck would have it, the village idiot has one on hand. And through the miracles of amazon.com, I could have an ohmmeter in a day or two. You guys would have to tell me rather explicitly what and how to test. Do-able?

[JohnH]

That's a good plan. Even a basic $10 one is an essential tool for guitar modding. We can help, and we can all get to learn about this curious switch. Is it the Ultra version that you have?

[bigdon62]

Nov 28, 2017 6:49:42 GMT -5 JohnH said:

Is it the Ultra version that you have?

Yes it is.

[bigdon62]

Tomorrow (Wednesday) night when I log on after work, I'll have one of these in-hand:

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWGZ4XC/

One of you will have to tell me what to do with it.

Glad to be able to help the community learn about this switch.

[JohnH]

I never had a meter like that with a clamp feature, which is for detecting high A/C current flowing in mains wiring. But you'll be using the two leads, and the Ohms setting (Omega greek letter symbol).

So Test 1 one, switch it on , set to ohms, and touch the two leads together. It should show a very low number like 1 or 2 ohms, being the resistance of the leads. That is basically what youd use to test the switch. Many meters have a series of ranges like 0-200, 2000, 20000, 200000,2M, set on the dial. Yours is auto-ranging, so it finds the right ohms setting and there is a small display symbol at right to tell you the units.

Test 2, plug a cord into a guitar and measure resistance across tip and barrel at the end of the cord, at full volume it should read the pickup resistance, like 6k. Then try turning the volume knob and the reading should rise and fall.

Test 3, set to DC volts and test some batteries

Test 4, that switch.....(discuss later)

[reTrEaD]

Nov 29, 2017 14:23:17 GMT -5 JohnH said:

Test 4, that switch.....(discuss later)

After Don becomes familiar with that meter, the real fun begins.
I noticed it has an audible (beep) continuity check option.
That's likely to be handy while testing the switch.

The testing of the switch might be done in stages.
The first stage would be to determine what the CA and CB pads do.
And what the TA and TB pads don't do.
(stationary testing)

The second stage would be to determine what the TA and TB pads do while the lever transitions between positions.
(covered in a later post)

There will be 6 sections in the initial stage.
One for each switch position.



______________________


SECTION ONE
Place the switch lever in the #1 position
It will remain there throughout the section one testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A1 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A1 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B1 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B1 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

----

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A1 and A1
B1 and B1

Confirm there is no continuity between
A2 and A2
A3 and A3
A4 and A4
A5 and A5
A6 and A6
B2 and B2
B3 and B3
B4 and B4
B5 and B5
B6 and B6

-----------End of Section One tests -------------

SECTION TWO
Place the switch lever in the #2 position
It will remain there throughout the section two testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A2 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A2 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B2 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B2 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

---------

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A2 and A2
B2 and B2

Confirm there is no continuity between
A1 and A1
A3 and A3
A4 and A4
A5 and A5
A6 and A6
B1 and B1
B3 and B3
B4 and B4
B5 and B5
B6 and B6

-----------End of Section Two tests -------------

SECTION THREE
Place the switch lever in the #3 position
It will remain there throughout the section three testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A3 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A3 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B3 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B3 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

----

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A3 and A3
B3 and B3

Confirm there is no continuity between
A1 and A1
A2 and A2
A4 and A4
A5 and A5
A6 and A6
B1 and B1
B2 and B2
B4 and B4
B5 and B5
B6 and B6

-----------End of Section Three tests -------------

SECTION FOUR
Place the switch lever in the #4 position
It will remain there throughout the section four testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A4 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A4 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B4 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B4 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

----

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A4 and A4
B4 and B4

Confirm there is no continuity between
A1 and A1
A2 and A2
A3 and A3
A5 and A5
A6 and A6
B1 and B1
B2 and B2
B3 and B3
B5 and B5
B6 and B6

-----------End of Section Four tests -------------

SECTION FIVE
Place the switch lever in the #5 position
It will remain there throughout the section five testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A5 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A5 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B5 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B5 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

----

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A5 and A5
B5 and B5

Confirm there is no continuity between
A1 and A1
A2 and A2
A3 and A3
A4 and A4
A6 and A6
B1 and B1
B2 and B2
B3 and B3
B4 and B4
B6 and B6

-----------End of Section Five tests -------------

SECTION SIX
Place the switch lever in the #6 position
It will remain there throughout the section six testing.

Place one test tip on the CA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two A6 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two A6 pads.

Place one test tip on the CB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Confirm continuity to each of the two B6 pads.
Confirm there is no continuity to any other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad other the two B6 pads.

Place one test tip on the TA pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

Place one test tip on the TB pad.
Measure continuity to each and every other pad.
Make a written note of continuity to any pad.

----

Measure continuity between pairs of pads.
ie: between one pad marked A1 and the other pad marked A1, etc.

Confirm there is continuity between
A6 and A6
B6 and B6

Confirm there is no continuity between
A1 and A1
A2 and A2
A3 and A3
A4 and A4
A5 and A5
B1 and B1
B2 and B2
B3 and B3
B4 and B4
B5 and B5

-----------End of Section Six tests -------------

-----------Completion of initial (stationary) stage of testing ------

[bigdon62]

Yesterday I gave up pretty quickly. Tried today and, again, futility. My blood pressure skyrocketed just trying to hold this damn thing in place while testing a single pair of pads.

Just ordered some banana clip leads. And, I need something to hold the damn switch. 

[reTrEaD]

For the something to hold the switch, you could build a box with one face that's thin enough to mount the switch through a hole you drill. But that seems like more work than necessary.

Plastic food containers are becoming increasingly thin and flimsy as time goes on, so I won't suggest a container left over from sour cream or cottage cheese. But I think you could get a plastic bowl from the dollar store or a tupperware container. Flip it upside down. Drill a hole in what had been the bottom. A hole just large enough to fit the mounting bushing. Install the switch from the outside so toggle is inside the cavity of the bowl. Attach the mounting nut to secure it.

This should work well for the tests where the toggle is stationary. When we move on to tests where the toggle is in transition, we will need a different approach.

[bigdon62]

Finally getting to this, gotta get this guitar put together sooner or later.



SECTION ONE - COMPLETED



> Place one test tip on the CA pad.

Continuity to the two A1 pads confirmed.

No continuity to any other pads.



> Place one test tip on the CB pad.

Continuity to the two B1 pads confirmed.

No continuity to any other pads.



> Place one test tip on the TA pad.

No continuity to any pads.



> Place one test tip on the TB pad.

No continuity to any pads.



> Confirm there is continuity between

> A1 and A1

> B1 and B1

Confirmed



> Confirm there is no continuity between ...

Confirmed



Moving on to Section Two now.

[bigdon62]

Nov 30, 2017 14:33:46 GMT -5 reTrEaD said:

<details cut>

-----------End of Section Six tests -------------

-----------Completion of initial (stationary) stage of testing ------

All six sections of testing completed and confirmed - now what?