Line6 double mod for Dm4 P L E A S E?

[merseymale]

Hi!

Can anyone rustle up a diagram for the distortion modellers double mod on a pushbutton (if you can throw in a pot too that would be great but I’m Grateful for any info!) With an LED indicator I’d be over-th-moon!!

Many years ago I did this mod and it was great and the best thing about it was it was readily available on the on The Internet where others have done the same thing but now, for some reason, it’s nowhere to be found And I can’t for the life of me remember how I did it…

Thanks for any ideas in advance

[Jaga]

Not sure, but isn't it something like this?

www.trueguitarist.com/line-6-double-preset-mod/

[merseymale]

Jul 1, 2019 7:07:46 GMT -5 Jaga said:

Not sure, but isn't it something like this?

www.trueguitarist.com/line-6-double-preset-mod/

Well yes it’s sort of is like that but there is no LED mentioned in that link and it only fades between two variables and everything in between

While that would be a nice option I want at least to be able to press 1 foot pedal switch (I remember mine had just three contacts) and have an LED light between those 2 foot pedal positions (mine was a red LED)

Anyone know of a wiring diagram?

[Jaga]

In order to add LED, you would need just to add one pole to your switch and connect the LED somehow so that it would receive needed voltage to corresponding "+" lug while ground can be connected to the ground all the time (that's how I understand your request).

[merseymale]

Jul 1, 2019 17:30:51 GMT -5 Jaga said:

In order to add LED, you would need just to add one pole to your switch and connect the LED somehow so that it would receive needed voltage to corresponding "+" lug while ground can be connected to the ground all the time (that's how I understand your request).

That’s sounding more like it but I’m just not sure how to do that

I did it once many years ago on an old distortion modeller I once had but I can’t for the life of me remember how I did it

If anyone can rustle up a wiring diagram I’d be been most grateful

Thanks in advance

[blademaster2]

Remember to add a series resistor to the LED to set the current. Otherwise if the voltage switched to it is higher than, say, 2 Volts, it will draw much more current than you want.

For example, a 10mA current (typical to light them up, but I have seen 5mA work just as well) into a LED requires a resistor of around 300 ohms in series if the voltage you are switching is 5Vdc. (To get very precise current would need to look at the data sheet for the particular LED, but many are around 2 Volts across them so you subtract that from the applied voltage and divide the result by the desired current you want through the LED).

[merseymale]

Jul 2, 2019 8:44:53 GMT -5 blademaster2 said:

Remember to add a series resistor to the LED to set the current. Otherwise if the voltage switched to it is higher than, say, 2 Volts, it will draw much more current than you want.

For example, a 10mA current into a LED requires a resistor of around 300 ohms in series if the voltage you are switching is 5Vdc. (To get very precise current would need to data sheet for the particular LED, but many are around 2 Volts across them so you subtract that from the applied voltage and divide the result by the desired current you want through the LED).

I don’t suppose you could find the time, please, to look at this article :

www.trueguitarist.com/line-6-double-preset-mod/

And scribble are diagram/picture Of how I could have a foot switch with an LED?

[blademaster2]

I looked at that article but did not see anything where power was connected within that footswitch. - it was all passive.

It can be done, however, if you wanted to include a battery in the footswitch to light up the LED to indicate a particular switch state (footswitches never show you what state they are in visually). You would need to have a connection being switched that is not involved in the other connections in the unit (like a third pole on the switch) so you could connect to, say, a 9V battery positive terminal to the LED and series resistor and back to the 9V battery negative terminal when the switch is at the setting you want to indicate. For that voltage the resistor would be around 1.4kohms and could be pretty low power rating (only dissipating 35mW so a 1/10W rated resistor is fine). A 9V battery with around a (typical) 100mAH capacity would last around 20 hours with this indicator steadily on.

There might be a safe way to connect this through the DPDT switch shown in that article but it needs more digging into which pole is switched and trying to avoid any coupled switch event 'glitch' from getting into the guitar signal and being audible, which might be more likely in that configuration.

[merseymale]

Jul 4, 2019 8:48:09 GMT -5 blademaster2 said:

I looked at that article but did not see anything where power was connected within that footswitch. - it was all passive.

It can be done, however, if you wanted to include a battery in the footswitch to light up the LED to indicate a particular switch state (footswitches never show you what state they are in visually). You would need to have a connection being switched that is not involved in the other connections in the unit (like a third pole on the switch) so you could connect to, say, a 9V battery positive terminal to the LED and series resistor and back to the 9V battery negative terminal when the switch is at the setting you want to indicate. For that voltage the resistor would be around 1.4kohms and could be pretty low power rating (only dissipating 35mW so a 1/10W rated resistor is fine). A 9V battery with around a (typical) 100mAH capacity would last around 20 hours with this indicator steadily on.

There might be a safe way to connect this through the DPDT switch shown in that article but it needs more digging into which pole is switched and trying to avoid any coupled switch event 'glitch' from getting into the guitar signal and being audible, which might be more likely in that configuration.

Thanks for taking the time to look into that
I wouldn’t mind a “glitch“getting into the signal at the point when the foot switch is pressed but IF it was a continuous sound then yep I’d have to go the battery route

[blademaster2]

Without power coming in to the unit you cannot avoid a battery, but it might be difficult to find the "Triple Pole Dual Throw" footswitch (I have not looked for one*). If such a switch is available then it is the easiest and quietest solution to hook up, and if not and you are forced to use a DPDT switch then it becomes trickier, but hopefully not impossible, like I was saying earlier. The "glitch", if there was an audible one, would only occur when switching the unit between states and would not be continuous.

I also looked at 9V battery capacity and found that 100 mAh is on the low side when you are drawing such low current, so the time that this LED would work could go up to 100 hours or so of continuous "on" time (which is pretty long depending how much you are gigging with it).


*I just did, and StewMac has one so it can be done pretty easily:

www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/3PDT_Stomp_Switch.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2019-07-gp&pref_currency=H&shipcalc=CAN&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImvDL4PSd4wIVBJ7ACh3ncgTJEAYYAyABEgKvafD_BwE

[merseymale]

Jul 5, 2019 8:41:05 GMT -5 blademaster2 said:

Without power coming in to the unit you cannot avoid a battery, but it might be difficult to find the "Triple Pole Dual Throw" footswitch (I have not looked for one*). If such a switch is available then it is the easiest and quietest solution to hook up, and if not and you are forced to use a DPDT switch then it becomes trickier, but hopefully not impossible, like I was saying earlier. The "glitch", if there was an audible one, would only occur when switching the unit between states and would not be continuous.

I also looked at 9V battery capacity and found that 100 mAh is on the low side when you are drawing such low current, so the time that this LED would work could go up to 100 hours or so of continuous "on" time (which is pretty long depending how much you are gigging with it).


*I just did, and StewMac has one so it can be done pretty easily:

www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/3PDT_Stomp_Switch.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2019-07-gp&pref_currency=H&shipcalc=CAN&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImvDL4PSd4wIVBJ7ACh3ncgTJEAYYAyABEgKvafD_BwE

Well I’ve got a source for parts now -thanking you- but HOW to assemble ‘em?

[thetragichero]

i know this is a rather old thread, but i wouldn't get anything from stewmac that i could get elsewhere. they are quite pricey
tayda is an excellent resource for most of the components one would need in a typical stompbox. they've got a minimum order of like 7 bucks but their shipping is super reasonable... you could get the parts to do what you're doing several times over for less than that stewmac switch
i'll try to remember to check your page later to get an idea of what you're going for

[merseymale]

Sept 11, 2019 10:57:52 GMT -5 thetragichero said:

i know this is a rather old thread, but i wouldn't get anything from stewmac that i could get elsewhere. they are quite pricey
tayda is an excellent resource for most of the components one would need in a typical stompbox. they've got a minimum order of like 7 bucks but their shipping is super reasonable... you could get the parts to do what you're doing several times over for less than that stewmac switch
i'll try to remember to check your page later to get an idea of what you're going for

Thanks
I look forward to hearing back from you!
I still need to assemble all this...🤞