JP wiring with parallel push pulls instead of coil splits

[neophytebuilder]

I am looking for a circuit diagram for a LP build I am about to start, that is basically the Jimmy Page wiring but with independent series-parallel push pulls, instead of the coil splits. I do not see one in the published wiring diagrams, but I do see other options that offer series, parallel and single coil options - going way beyond what I am looking for.

Searching around the internet I found a diagram that seems to date back to 2011 on MyLesPaul forums, but can't verify if it was ever built as pictured.

www.mylespaul.com/threads/jimmy-page-wiring-with-parallel-instead-of-coil-splits.260537/

Would anyone be willing to review the diagram, or to suggest an alternative wiring? It would be greatly appreciated, especially as I am probably going to pay someone to build it for me :-)

[reTrEaD]

Hi neophytebuilder and to GN2.

A few notes about the diagram you posted:

He's using Gibson color codes for the HBs. If you use a different brand, be sure to change the colors accordingly.

The local Series/Parallel switching for each HB looks fine to me.

The 'independent volume controls' wiring is generally a BAD idea. I recommend against it.

When switching to both pickups in series with each other, you'll experience some problems including a dead condition if the pickup selector is in the Bridge-only position.

---

I would recommend starting with a different scheme such as JH's Jimmy Page, then re-configure his split switches to series/parallel switching.

[neophytebuilder]

reTrEaD Why is the independent volume a BAD idea?

I have not looked at a circuit diagram for 26 years! After graduating I ran as far away from them as possible. I don’t trust my ability to swap parts in and out

[reTrEaD]

neophytebuilder, in a two-volume when a volume control is wired correctly (with the pickup connected to the CW lug and the selector switch connected to the wiper) it performs as intended when one pickup is selected. The resistive element of the volume control acts as a voltage divider. It also works well through much of its range when two pickups are selected. But there is a problem when one volume is reduced to zero. The entire output is shunted because the resistance from wiper to CCW lug is zero and that is directly across the output.

To combat this situation, some genius decided to connect the volume controls bass-ackwards. With the pickup connected to the wiper and the selector switch connected to the CW lug. They dubbed this 'independent volumes' since rotating one volume to zero won't shunt the entire output when both pickups are selected.

This fixes an avoidable problem but creates a much worse problem. The volume controls won't act like proper voltage dividers when only one pickup is selected. The tone will be severely dulled when the volume control is rotated counter-clockwise at a much faster rate than the volume is reduced. In my opinion, this is far to high a price to pay to cure a situation that can easily be avoided. If you have two pickups selected and you want one pickup to make no contribution to the combination, just select the other pickup rather than turning this one's volume to zero.

[ashcatlt]

Yeah that’s in the parallel combination. In series, what happens depends on which knob you turn. One is just a master volume and the other sort of works to blend its pickup out, but it’s not the best way to do it.

That said, when the V’s are wired normal, and it’s in parallel mode, you can use the toggle as a kill switch.

[neophytebuilder]

I think I understand what you are saying, it sounds like I am back to the drawing board then, REMOVING the independent volume controls...

I might be pasting a view horror shows...

[neophytebuilder]

reTrEaD

So, starting with the JHJP I can see that replacing S1 for neck single coil, with a series parallel option works. But when I look at S3 for the bridge single coil, it does not look the same as S1 and thus can’t be a simple replacement... and this is where I get lost

[ashcatlt]

Well, I think that splits to the opposite coil, but so does the one above. In the end, there's still 4 wires in and 2 wires out, which is the same as a standard S/P switch has. Don't worry about what the switch is doing now, just put the 6 wires where there go on the new one.

[reTrEaD]

Sept 5, 2020 9:43:00 GMT -5 neophytebuilder said:

reTrEaD

So, starting with the JHJP I can see that replacing S1 for neck single coil, with a series parallel option works. But when I look at S3 for the bridge single coil, it does not look the same as S1 and thus can’t be a simple replacement... and this is where I get lost

Yes, S3 is a bit difficult to understand if you aren't familiar with the strategy of coil-swapping when flipping the phase on a HB when it is also split to one coil.

Make the connection from ground to the Phase switch the same way it is when S3 is in the 'normal' position and forget about the wire that goes from S3 to the series link of the HB.

Then wire the Bridge HB to your local Series/Parallel switch for the Bridge. The output of that will connect to the poles of the Phase switch.