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Post by merseymale on Oct 4, 2021 16:48:31 GMT -5
Hi!
I’m asking around if there is a chance that a normal Tele switch can be used for this custom wiring I have in mind? I was told by a guy in the store that a five way Strat style switch that was physically blocked from going to the ends would do the trick but as he didn’t go into any other details I’m beginning to doubt it!
What I want is similar to the both the Early Broadcaster Wirings but I want first position to be just the bridge pickup without it being loaded by the tone control (and if it could be not loaded by the volume either then that might be nice…?)
The second position would be the same as the first only the tone control (AND the volume control!) WOULD affect the back/bridge pickup alone -there is to be no tone control on the neck pickup, BTW
…and the final position would be the neck pick up on its own without the tone control but still with that single master volume.
does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
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Post by newey on Oct 4, 2021 19:34:09 GMT -5
So, there is no N + B setting?
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Post by newey on Oct 4, 2021 19:56:50 GMT -5
I think this will work, but let's get a second opinion:  I have omitted ground wires for clarity, pickup - are both grounded, grounding to backs of pots (or star ground) not shown either. Also, the switch is not shown as it would be mounted in the guitar, you would want the lugs numbered as "3" to the bottom, i.e., towards the heel of the guitar. |
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Post by merseymale on Oct 4, 2021 21:04:34 GMT -5
So, there is no N + B setting? Nope (I’m basically going for the Esquire look using a “stealth pickup” with the switching to do essentially a modern/useful version of the original single pickup Fender wiring) |
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Post by merseymale on Oct 4, 2021 21:07:28 GMT -5
I think this will work, but let's get a second opinion: I have omitted ground wires for clarity, pickup - are both grounded, grounding to backs of pots (or star ground) not shown either. Also, the switch is not shown as it would be mounted in the guitar, you would want the lugs numbered as "3" to the bottom, i.e., towards the heel of the guitar. OK that looks good… so, the Volume Pot will always be in circuit, yes? I guess I can live with that compromise IF it saves me springing for a Fancy Switch!! |
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Post by newey on Oct 5, 2021 4:30:15 GMT -5
OK that looks good… so, the Volume Pot will always be in circuit, yes? No, at position #1 the bridge pickup goes directly to output. |
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Post by merseymale on Oct 5, 2021 5:23:58 GMT -5
OK that looks good… so, the Volume Pot will always be in circuit, yes? No, at position #1 the bridge pickup goes directly to output. Thanks |
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 5, 2021 8:26:09 GMT -5
I think this will work, but let's get a second opinion: No go. With the wiper of the volume pot permanently wired to the output jack, you aren't able to remove it completely from the circuit. Whatever resistance there is from wiper to CCW (dependent upon rotation) will load whatever is directly connected to the output jack.
With only two poles, there are two possible strategies. Neither of which will achieve all goals suggested in the OP. 1 - Volume control always in the circuit. One pole selects which of the two pickups is selected, the other pole selects the tone control in the desired positions. 2 - One pole is connected to the output jack. It selects either a direct connection to the pickup or the output from the Volume AND tone controls. The other pole is connected to the input of the volume AND tone controls. It selects the desired pickup in the positions where the V and T are in the circuit. |
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 5, 2021 8:28:46 GMT -5
I was told by a guy in the store that a five way Strat style switch that was physically blocked from going to the ends would do the trick but as he didn’t go into any other details I’m beginning to doubt it! You should doubt it. Either he didn't understand all the goals or he's FoS. |
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Post by newey on Oct 5, 2021 8:53:42 GMT -5
OK, my mistake, I thought if no signal going through the pot it would be effectively out of the circuit. It effectively would be if you used a no-load pot and kept it at "10" when using position 1.
So, I guess to really do this as requested by MM, one would need the Tele-style "narrow Superswitch" so one of the extra poles could then disconnect the V pot entirely.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2021 9:11:03 GMT -5
Hi! I’m asking around if there is a chance that a normal Tele switch can be used for this custom wiring I have in mind? I was told by a guy in the store that a five way Strat style switch that was physically blocked from going to the ends would do the trick but as he didn’t go into any other details I’m beginning to doubt it Guess we are talking about Lever switching  The limits are the Bumps on the back, never looked in to changing myself. but would have to be within that line. I have played with changing the small metal bit in the middle to link up the Input/Output but only cutting on off bits where it over hanged 3 points. You can pull them out and put them back in, some thing i would love to look more in to making myself (was looking at Soda Cans for the metal but its just how to cut them out just right, would maybe laser i guess to make. The CHEAP T-Type (3way) and S-Type (5way) [not looked at a 3way one] but i see the cog inside has both 3 and 5 way bumps on it. Board is easy ish to change and i'm still playing around making it to work 6 and 7 ways. I say still, because soldered it on to the switch to get a grip and now its not lined up  |
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 5, 2021 9:35:04 GMT -5
It effectively would be if you used a no-load pot and kept it at "10" when using position 1. A no-load pot is a horrible, Horrible, HORRIBLE choice for volume control. The only function it can serve is as a rheostat shunt, not a variable voltage divider. Shunt volume controls suck tone harder than a Hoover plugged into a 220 volt outlet, before they even begin to affect the volume. Yes, you can add a series resistor ... but then you introduce other issues. |
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