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Post by newey on Nov 18, 2021 6:22:49 GMT -5
As originally used by Fender, these were (and are) manufactured by Oak Grigsby. Other manufacturers now make these as well. However, all are similar to the Oak-Grigsby as to the switch logic shown below. The Superswitch is a 4 Pole, 5-position switch. You will often see the switch referred to as a "4 Pole, 5 Throw" switch ("4P5T"), as each position is a separate "throw". The Superswitch offers many other possible wirings not obtainable with the regular 5-way lever switch, because all positions on all 4 poles are independently wireable. This is very different from the standard 5-way switch, which has only 2 poles and where positions 2 and 4 are not independently wireable (it is a 2P3T switch, technically). The actual switch looks like this: Note that the lettering of the Poles as "A", "B" etc, as well as the numbering of the positions, is arbitrary. How you mount the switch in the guitar will dictate the location of the 5 positions. Bear in mind that this is a "lever switch", so that the position of the lever is opposite of the lugs which are internally connected, i.e., with the lever pointed towards the bridge pickup (which I designate as "Position 1"), the lugs closest to the neck are connected to the common lug of each pole. Since we can't easily draw things in 3 dimensions, in diagrams we represent the switch as shown below. This diagram also shows the internal switch connections at each position, the "switch logic" Note that this diagram has the poles numbered 1 through 4 as opposed to lettered as I have done:
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Post by psiloguitarensis on Nov 18, 2021 16:46:59 GMT -5
this was super helpful you rock
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markt62
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by markt62 on Nov 22, 2021 13:34:26 GMT -5
Thanks Mine came in a plastic bag with not info at all. This is most Helpful. Mark
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Post by gckelloch on Nov 23, 2021 5:12:01 GMT -5
Thanks, Newey. If you've used them, you'll know they don't really click definitively into each position. I wish someone would make a more solid one, but mine has held up fine for several years now.
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Post by newey on Nov 23, 2021 5:23:01 GMT -5
I wish someone would make a more solid one, I've never tried one, but reTrEaD swears by the Schaller/EYB Megaswitches as having superior "feel". The "M" model is the 4-pole equivalent to the Superswitch
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2021 5:33:37 GMT -5
sounds like its ever the Locator (I'll see if i can find one to look inside) Or the Bumps on the back are not deep enough I dont tend to use them as they cost too much £10-15 some times (about US$13-19.5)
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Post by MattB on Nov 23, 2021 9:44:18 GMT -5
A few pictures of the inside. The pins have to be drilled out to take the switch apart. M2 machine screws will work to bolt everything back together.
I slightly mangled the circlip getting it off, but I'm fairly sure it's 6mm internal diameter. [/div] Note the fold in the bearing carrier. This provides some extra spring tension for the bearing.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2021 10:05:05 GMT -5
So ever make the Bumps deeper (and that will be hard to do without damage) or change the Wheel for a bit bigger one.
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Post by MattB on Nov 23, 2021 11:38:58 GMT -5
I took a few more photos of the indexing. This is a 4 way switch but that doesn't matter- most of the parts are exactly the same. The bumps on the 4 way frame are spaced wider apart, but the rest of the mechanism is identical.
With the circlip in place, the centre of the bearing carrier is squashed flat, and the outer part is bent upwards. This has the same fold in it as in the other photos, but with the parts fitted together it's almost straightened out.
A better picture of the how the bearing sits. It might be possible to file some metal away from the shoulders of the bumps to make them steeper. There isn't a lot of material to work with; the frame is about three quarters of a mil thick, and the bumps are going to be thinner because the metal is stretched.
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Post by sumgai on Nov 23, 2021 21:47:02 GMT -5
Deposit a drop or two from a welding rod on top of the detent so that it stands taller, that should make the lever a bit stiffer. (Solder is too soft, it will wear off of the detent in months, if not sooner.)
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Post by psiloguitarensis on Nov 28, 2021 14:04:43 GMT -5
need hardening on those indents drill bits or 309 312 314 stainless rod
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Post by reTrEaD on Nov 29, 2021 2:20:09 GMT -5
I wish someone would make a more solid one, I've never tried one, but reTrEaD swears by the Schaller/EYB Megaswitches as having superior "feel". The "M" model is the 4-pole equivalent to the Superswitch If I recall correctly, RandomHero had a great experience using a Megaswitch, too. (although I think he used a Megaswitch S) The Superswitch uses a stamped frame with stuff riveted on. The frame of the most recent version Megaswitch is a machined casting and the wafer is attached with machine screws directly into the frame. They were great before. Now they're downright amazing.
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