potentiometers with DPDT switch

[axedoctor]

Hi All - 

Looking for mechanical advise about choosing potentiometers to upgrade a pair of Jay Turser JT-300 and Squier Affinity stratocasters.

Push/Pull or Push/Push???  Years ago there was some significant bias against the Push/Push option, but as of late this seems to be abating.

Challenges with physical depth in the electronics cavity of these perhaps thinner bodies???

Short shaft slotted knurled stems for sure, but is there an issue with shaft diameter with pickguards and control knobs for imports???

Just wanting to understand details before ordering parts.

[newey]

Jan 10, 2022 12:44:32 GMT -5 axedoctor said:

Challenges with physical depth in the electronics cavity of these perhaps thinner bodies???

Could well be an issue. AFAIK push/pull pots and push/push would be the same depth. Do you perhaps have a spare you can use to measure? Also, CTS now makes a Push/Pull pot with a PCB board which may be a bit shorter than the ALpha ones, at least looking visually, I didn't check actual dimensions.

As for preferences for push/pulls versus push/push, many people don't like push/pulls as it is easier to push down to change a setting rather than pulling up, particularly if switching in the middle of a song or solo. But push/push pots are harder to find. I don't recall hearing anyone with a bias against push/push pots.

As for shaft diameters, US-spec solid shaft pots are 1/4", which is 6.35mm. Metric ones are typically 6 mm. US-spec split shaft pots are a bit under 6 mm. So, if you are using US-spec solid shaft pots, you will need to ream the holes out just a tiny bit. If you are using split-shaft pots, no problem. And import pots will fit the slightly larger 1/4" US-spec holes no problem, tightening the hex nut takes care of the tiny bit of "slop" of the hole.

Also, however, be aware that there is a difference in the number of splines on the split-shaft pots. US-spec ones have 24 splines (IIRC), and imports have fewer (I think). Anyway, be aware that import knobs don't fit well on US splined shafts, and vice versa (you can cram them on, but they don't sit right). So if you buy US-spec split shafts, be sure to get US-spec knobs, and import knobs if you have import-spec pots.

[unreg]

Jan 10, 2022 13:54:59 GMT -5 newey said:

As for shaft diameters, US-spec solid shaft pots are 1/4", which is 6.35mm. Metric ones are typically 6 mm. US-spec split shaft pots are a bit under 6 mm. So, if you are using US-spec solid shaft pots, you will need to ream the holes out just a tiny bit. If you are using split-shaft pots, no problem. And import pots will fit the slightly larger 1/4" US-spec holes no problem, tightening the hex nut takes care of the tiny bit of "slop" of the hole.

Also, however, be aware that there is a difference in the number of splines on the split-shaft pots. US-spec ones have 24 splines (IIRC), and imports have fewer (I think). Anyway, be aware that import knobs don't fit well on US splined shafts, and vice versa (you can cram them on, but they don't sit right). So if you buy US-spec split shafts, be sure to get US-spec knobs, and import knobs if you have import-spec pots.

To OP and all: Personally, my guitar was made on an assembly line in Korea. I needed to ream my holes a little bit, even after buying different brand (CTS #450S 3486) replacement split-shaft pots. Used an unsharpened round pencil wrapped with 150 grit, I believe, sandpaper. 150 grit isn’t incredibly rough, but it speeds the sanding, compared to like 400 grit. The holes don’t need to be incredibly smooth so >=400 isn’t necessary.

My replacement knobs came from StewMac; they each have a flathead screw that tightens the knob to the split shaft; works wonderfully.

[psiloguitarensis]

my squier affinty required .300 removed in slot for cts pcb board style to fit, its bulky compared to a bourn push pull. bourn i only needed remove .25 in cavity. what i found with the cts pcb style was make sure your tip is in good condition and has a fairly good point with no more then 1/6th land and dont want much heat . i found placing solder over joint and melting that helped alot. bourn was easie rto work with. only the push pull orkings if you want speed then dont chose pull style. bourns action is smooth so is cts. very smooth to be precise feels quite nice. the cts body is bulkier then bourn by a bit. cts is quite round with a pcb board on it, where bourn is square and enlongated. my pickguard holes need reamers for new shafts to fit. the area where 5 way sits was no extra remove to remove and all the wires i having going to a super switch was tough to fit. push push would be easier as the knob wont stick up when activated. so if thats and issue think of that as well. the push push seem well built and thinking about buying one to try out.


ps hope this helps ya some.