pk317
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Post by pk317 on Mar 16, 2022 16:43:56 GMT -5
Hi guys, New here, found a lot of useful info already that have implemented on my guitars. Short question: I have two types of 3 way toggle switches - the one with full metal housing and another one with kind of plates with exposed connectors. Which one is better? Is there any difference at all? Thanks.  |
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 16, 2022 22:25:32 GMT -5
Hi pk317 and  to GN2. Is there any difference at all? There's a slight difference with the exact switch on the right compared to the one on the left, but I've never seen anyone take advantage of it. It has two fixed leaves near the center and the lever pushes on the outer leaves when it's not in the center position. This breaks the contact on one pair of leaves in one outer position and breaks the contact of the other pair of leaves in the opposite position. In all cases I've seen, both inner leaves are tied together so the result is A | Both | B (same as the box switch) The box switch on the left is found on Asian import guitars. Having the contacts enclosed seems a good thing but I don't have any experience with that switch so I don't know anything about how reliable it is (or what the guts look like). The switch on the right has a ton of variations in length of bushing, quality of construction, and functionality. For instance there is a special switch that does Bridge | Bridge+Middle | Neck On Gibson 3-HB Les Pauls images.gibson.com/Lifestyle/Support/Files/Schematics/lpafwiring.gif |
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Post by b4nj0 on Mar 17, 2022 4:35:07 GMT -5
I have the type on the right on an SG2000, an SA2000 and a Firebird, and all have eventually suffered from spring fatigue, and this means that the switch toggle vibrates when playing in the middle position. Flip to either side of centre and the spring has a load again and the buzzing goes away. OK, I admit it is only noticeable when playing acoustically, which is not how the instruments that they are found on are intended to be used, but it is irritating. I have long since resorted to leaving the switch in the middle position (remove or at least reduce the static load on the spring) when not being played in order to try to prevent or slow down this phenomenon. That said, as examples of "old school" design, they do at least "look" more robust, but as you'd expect, the Chinese have a way of making beauty only skin deep ...
でつ e&oe ...
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pk317
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
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Post by pk317 on Mar 17, 2022 6:51:19 GMT -5
Hi pk317 and to GN2. Is there any difference at all? There's a slight difference with the exact switch on the right compared to the one on the left, but I've never seen anyone take advantage of it. It has two fixed leaves near the center and the lever pushes on the outer leaves when it's not in the center position. This breaks the contact on one pair of leaves in one outer position and breaks the contact of the other pair of leaves in the opposite position. In all cases I've seen, both inner leaves are tied together so the result is A | Both | B (same as the box switch) The box switch on the left is found on Asian import guitars. Having the contacts enclosed seems a good thing but I don't have any experience with that switch so I don't know anything about how reliable it is (or what the guts look like). The switch on the right has a ton of variations in length of bushing, quality of construction, and functionality. For instance there is a special switch that does Bridge | Bridge+Middle | Neck On Gibson 3-HB Les Pauls images.gibson.com/Lifestyle/Support/Files/Schematics/lpafwiring.gifThanks for the warm welcome!  I understand the technical difference, was a bit curious, so opened both of them just to understand how they work. Didn't notice any difference in "live" functioning though. I have the type on the right on an SG2000, an SA2000 and a Firebird, and all have eventually suffered from spring fatigue, and this means that the switch toggle vibrates when playing in the middle position. Flip to either side of centre and the spring has a load again and the buzzing goes away. OK, I admit it is only noticeable when playing acoustically, which is not how the instruments that they are found on are intended to be used, but it is irritating. I have long since resorted to leaving the switch in the middle position (remove or at least reduce the static load on the spring) when not being played in order to try to prevent or slow down this phenomenon. That said, as examples of "old school" design, they do at least "look" more robust, but as you'd expect, the Chinese have a way of making beauty only skin deep ... でつ e&oe ...Hmm, I tried it on one of my guitars now, didn't hear any buzzing, honestly. The switch is located on the bottom of the guitar, near the volume knob. |
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Post by unreg on Mar 17, 2022 10:41:00 GMT -5
I have the type on the right on an SG2000, an SA2000 and a Firebird, and all have eventually suffered from spring fatigue, and this means that the switch toggle vibrates when playing in the middle position. , so, b4nj0 is saying the switch, on the right, isn’t made to vibrate, but all three he has had do vibrate after much use… due to spring fatigue. Naturally, yours doesn’t vibrate… yet. (It may, in the future.) |
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pk317
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 21
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Post by pk317 on Mar 17, 2022 15:30:45 GMT -5
I have the type on the right on an SG2000, an SA2000 and a Firebird, and all have eventually suffered from spring fatigue, and this means that the switch toggle vibrates when playing in the middle position. , so, b4nj0 is saying the switch, on the right, isn’t made to vibrate, but all three he has had do vibrate after much use… due to spring fatigue. Naturally, yours doesn’t vibrate… yet. (It may, in the future.) Yeah, I got it, I tried it on a guitar that I own from 2007 or 2006 (LTD F-50) and it is still fine, no buzz. Maybe I just got lucky, or I'm becoming a bit deaf |
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to GN2.
