Need help wiring new partscaster

[chumpy36]

Hi Folks,

Need some help with finding a wiring diagram or getting some help with such...

I am building a partscaster thinline. Set up as follows...

2 humbuckers (neck is 2 conductor and shield Bridge is the 4 conductor and what I want to switch between series and parallel wiring)
3 way blade pickup selector
master volume
master tone with push-pull switch that switches bridge pickup from series to parallel

I can't seem to find a wiring diagram to do this. The volume pot is a cts push pull (or I might switch it to a push push once that arrives).

Any help?

Thanks!

J

[unreg]

Apr 18, 2022 18:41:24 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

with push-pull switch that switches bridge pickup from series to parallel

hi J.

Welcome to guitarnuts2! 😀👍

Both terms, “series” and “parallel”, describe an arrangement of a group of items.

b4nj0 starts by describing to me “parallel” resistors:

Oct 7, 2021 12:07:24 GMT -5 b4nj0 said:

Lay the (eg) resistors side by side, and solder or twist the legs at each end together. You now have a configuration that has two components having only one connection at each "end". Series is like an end to end daisy chain. You can of course have combinations of the above.

e&oe ...

I can’t help you other than inquire: You want to switch your bridge pickup from series to parallel with what?

[Deleted]

Hmm
If you want both Neck/Bridge to go from series to parallel (humbucker to two single coils) you would need 4poles (ever a 4 pole switch or two 2 poles)

But all the rest is standard

I can't really do wire diagrams , only really do circuit diagrams....

Hot from the pickup to the 3way selector. The other end to one pole common. Above this common to go to ground. The other side common to the Hot of the other pickup on the humbucker. Above this one to the 3way selector. Also the other end of this pickup to ground.

The two lower parts of the push/pull (away from the pot) to be linked.

[unreg]

I won’t be the first to reply ever again.

My knowledge is minimal compared to many others here. I’m sorry.


EDIT: @angellahash, It seems like J wants to only change his bridge humbucker from its normal parallel state into series (two daisy chained single coils).

[Deleted]

Apr 19, 2022 0:11:00 GMT -5 unreg said:

I won’t be the first to reply ever again.

My knowledge is minimal compared to many others here. I’m sorry.


EDIT: @angellahash, It seems like J wants to only change his bridge humbucker from its normal parallel state into series (two daisy chained single coils).

Dam, yes sorry so only need the push pull...

Unreg I need nudging when I go off key so thank you

[jhng]

Hello J,

How comfortable are you with wiring diagrams and schematics? Here are links to standard tele wiring and a couple of links to the wiring for a regular series/parallel switch. Do you want to have a got at integrating them? All you need to do is to add the series parallel switch onto the bridge pickup wiring before it goes to the three-way switch and to ground. Everything else is standard Tele.


www.northwestguitars.co.uk/telecaster-wiring-diagrams/
guitarnuts2.proboards.com/post/27666
guitarnuts2.proboards.com/post/102148

You may find it helpful to use a free layout program like this one: diy-fever.com/software/diylc/

Have a go and then post it here and someone can double-check it before you break out the soldering iron.

[unreg]

You’re welcome @angellahash. 🙂


Also, want to correct my terrible mistake… a humbucker’s coils are usually wired in series.

[newey]

chumpy36-

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

jhng has you on the right track here. You probably haven't found a specific diagram for this because you're just adding a series/parallel switch to standard Tele wiring, or to basically any number of HH guitars that use a 3-way lever switch with master V and T controls.

While we can certainly draw you a diagram if needed, you'll fare better if you draw it up yourself and then we'll check it for you. That way, you will gain a better understanding of just what is going on with the wiring.

[Deleted]

only the second person to ask for this, as i've read

[chumpy36]

Apr 19, 2022 2:06:42 GMT -5 jhng said:

Hello J,

How comfortable are you with wiring diagrams and schematics? Here are links to standard tele wiring and a couple of links to the wiring for a regular series/parallel switch. Do you want to have a got at integrating them? All you need to do is to add the series parallel switch onto the bridge pickup wiring before it goes to the three-way switch and to ground. Everything else is standard Tele.


www.northwestguitars.co.uk/telecaster-wiring-diagrams/
guitarnuts2.proboards.com/post/27666
guitarnuts2.proboards.com/post/102148

You may find it helpful to use a free layout program like this one: diy-fever.com/software/diylc/

Have a go and then post it here and someone can double-check it before you break out the soldering iron.

I guess I would say I'm pretty bad with diagrams and schematics but I'm a fast learner. 

It seems to me that I should be combining the following two diagrams yes? (see attached)

I guess I'm confused about a couple things. 

1. Everything is wired the same as standard but instead of take white to the last lug of the switch and Black to the pot casing, I wire the 4 conductors of the pickup to the top four lugs of the switch that incorporated into the push/push pot right?

2. Once that is done do I just then take the output from the upper left lug of the switch on the push/push (labeled "hot output to controls") and send to the 4th lug of the blade switch (lower left lug in diagram) and then from the ground lug of the push/push switch to ground of a pot casing?

3. How do I know which lug is which on the switch? Please see my pic of my push push switch attached. Is there a universal order to the lugs and what's the orientation? Rest of pot on top?

Thanks to you all!

[gckelloch]

Just want to mention I've had 2 defective out of 5 push/push pots I ordered from Warmoth over the years. They are pretty dicey, but the 2 I put in one guitar have worked flawlessly for 16 years. Just don't pull up on them, and test all switch and pot leads with a meter b4 wiring up. Attach any ground wires to the tab on the bottom casing using some flux and touch the Iron only to the end point of the tab. I ordered 10 Fleor brand 250k push/push pots on ebay for $36 shipped. There was also a deal dor 5 of them on ebay. They seem fine and the two I tested do work, but they are short shaft version, so there's no lock washer and second nut. You'll want to get another nut and a lock washer for each.

[newey]

Apr 19, 2022 21:52:26 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

1. Everything is wired the same as standard but instead of take white to the last lug of the switch and Black to the pot casing, I wire the 4 conductors of the pickup to the top four lugs of the switch that incorporated into the push/push pot right?

Right, although "top 4 lugs" is a bit confusing. Better to number the lugs, as @angellahash has done on his schematic, so we can refer to things without "upper right lug", "Middle left lug", etc.

Numbered per Angellahash's schematic, your push/pull switch corresponds thusly:



Now, Let's do the same for your 3-way switch, again numbered to correspond with angellahash's schematic:



With this information, it sound be fairly straightforward to convert the schematic to the diagram you want. However, note also that on angellahash's schematic, he has drawn red boxes (narrow red lines) around the 2 poles of the 3-way switch, just to show that they are two halves of the same switch. Those thin red lines, therefore, are not wires.

Note also that, as we often do, we start with a schematic diagram like angellahash has done here, then translate that to a wiring diagram to use for soldering IRL. One is theory, the other is practice, so to speak.

2. Once that is done do I just then take the output from the upper left lug of the switch on the push/push (labeled "hot output to controls") and send to the 4th lug of the blade switch (lower left lug in diagram) and then from the ground lug of the push/push switch to ground of a pot casing?

Yes, assuming the pot casing is your grounding point.

3. How do I know which lug is which on the switch? Please see my pic of my push push switch attached. Is there a universal order to the lugs and what's the orientation? Rest of pot on top?

See above. The numbering we are using is arbitrary, and there are different types of push/pull or push/push pots, so there is no universal way of numbering things. But what we show here is fairly typically how lugs are designated.

[chumpy36]

Thanks for the help everyone!

So to put it into terms my mind can understand (because I still don't follow Angelhash's great diagram)...

Black (north start of humbucker) will go to lug 1 of the switch
White (north finish) will go to lug 5 of the switch
red (south finish) will go to lug 2 of the switch
green (south start) will go to lug 4 of the switch

3 and 6 on the switch are jumpered

Then 

Lug one goes to the common lug on the 3way switch then Lug 4 on the switch goes to ground.

Does that sound about right?

Thank you!

[newey]

Apr 20, 2022 18:07:01 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

Does that sound about right?

Yes, you've got it.

EDIT: I should add a proviso here- you haven't said what type of pickups you will be using. The HB color diagram is for Seymour Duncan wire colors, so if you are using SD pickups, or using one of the many other types that use the same wire colors, then you're good to go. If the pickups differ from SD colors, some translation will be necessary.

[gckelloch]

BTW, here's that Ebay lisitng: ebay.to/386Jjja

China is apparently closing off trade with the western world. It may be worth getting 10 for that price while you can. Since my last post, I noticed they are the short-shaft versions, so a lock washer and the second nut may not leave enough space on the shaft in most cases. Maybe just put some 2-sided tape on the bottom edges of the pickguard holes to hold them in place when tightened? That will also prevent the pot lugs from shorting on any pickguard shielding. I also notice the pot casing on these isn't loose at all on the switch, switching is smoother, and the shaft has no play compared to those from Warmoth. Could be these are robot-assembled to tighter tolerances. Will see when I install one tomorrow.

[Deleted]

Maybe I should sell these boards

Humbucker/North Pole
Humbucker/South Pole
Humbucker/Parallel
Phase Switching

[gckelloch]

Yeah, those boards look pretty handy.

Just letting people know I used the lock washer from the old push pot for the Fleor push pot and there was enough thread on top for the supplied washer and nut. The control panel on the guitar is rear-routed, so there should be more than enough thread for a top-routed body with a metal panel or plastic pickguard. I did put electrical tape on the pot lugs to prevent shorting. The old 12mm nuts don't fit on the 1/2" Fleor pot shaft, but the old lock washer does. So far, so good.

[chumpy36]

Ok, I may have confused myself. 

I said... 



So to put it into terms my mind can understand (because I still don't follow Angelhash's great diagram)...

Black (north start of humbucker) will go to lug 1 of the switch
White (north finish) will go to lug 5 of the switch
red (south finish) will go to lug 2 of the switch
green (south start) will go to lug 4 of the switch

3 and 6 on the switch are jumpered

Then

Lug one goes to the common lug on the 3way switch then Lug 4 on the switch goes to ground.


I realize I may not be getting the right place on the 3 way blade switch right. What I thought I meant to say was lug one on the push/push switch goes to lug 4 on the left hand side of the 3way blade switch like this pic.




Then lug 4 of the push push switch goes to ground on the pots. 

Is that correct?

If so, I think I've got it. I do have another push push switch. How difficult would it be to wire the neck pickup to coil split while I'm at it. I do have a 4 conductor pearly gates laying around. 

Also, these are all Seymour Duncan so the colors should work. 


Thanks again!

J

[newey]

Apr 24, 2022 20:15:20 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

Then lug 4 of the push push switch goes to ground on the pots. 

Is that correct?

If so, I think I've got it. I do have another push push switch. How difficult would it be to wire the neck pickup to coil split while I'm at it. I do have a 4 conductor pearly gates laying around. 

Also, these are all Seymour Duncan so the colors should work. 

Yes, sounds all correct. You should still draw it out in a diagram.

And, yes, you can certainly use another switch to split the neck pickup. Diagrams to do so are numerous, both here and elsewhere. It is just a module that will be placed after the pickup and before the 3-way switch. If you need a diagram, let us know, but this is a very common mod.

[Deleted]

I never understand why people want wiring diagrams than circuit diagram.

Wiring I can get lost on
But a circuit diagram is just a road map

Bumpy bits is a pickup/inductor/transformer

Spiky path is a resistor

A 'Y' looking road is a basic switch

And a guitar circuit is one of the basic ive seen.. than the Resister and a LED

[unreg]

Apr 25, 2022 12:39:43 GMT -5 @angellahash said:

I never understand why people want wiring diagrams than circuit diagram.

Wiring I can get lost on
But a circuit diagram is just a road map

Bumpy bits is a pickup/inductor/transformer

Spiky path is a resistor

A 'Y' looking road is a basic switch

And a guitar circuit is one of the basic ive seen.. than the Resister and a LED

Circuit diagram may be just a road map, but the follower has to translate that road map before it can be used.

You thrive on circuit diagram. Many of us can’t follow suit since translation takes effort; often effort that must be proceeded by study/practice.

Wiring diagram is like buttering bread. 🧈 🍞 That’s a much simpler process (takes less preparation).

---

Note: Simpler ≠ better

[chumpy36]

Apr 25, 2022 12:39:43 GMT -5 @angellahash said:

I never understand why people want wiring diagrams than circuit diagram.

Wiring I can get lost on
But a circuit diagram is just a road map

Bumpy bits is a pickup/inductor/transformer

Spiky path is a resistor

A 'Y' looking road is a basic switch

And a guitar circuit is one of the basic ive seen.. than the Resister and a LED

I'm certain you're right. I just have a hard time with a circuit diagram but wiring diagrams seem to make sense. 

[chumpy36]

Apr 24, 2022 21:10:59 GMT -5 newey said:

Apr 24, 2022 20:15:20 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

Then lug 4 of the push push switch goes to ground on the pots. 

Is that correct?

If so, I think I've got it. I do have another push push switch. How difficult would it be to wire the neck pickup to coil split while I'm at it. I do have a 4 conductor pearly gates laying around. 

Also, these are all Seymour Duncan so the colors should work. 

Yes, sounds all correct. You should still draw it out in a diagram.

And, yes, you can certainly use another switch to split the neck pickup. Diagrams to do so are numerous, both here and elsewhere. It is just a module that will be placed after the pickup and before the 3-way switch. If you need a diagram, let us know, but this is a very common mod.

Thank you. I'll take a look and see what I find. 

Thanks!

J

[newey]

chumpy36-

What the heck, here's a diagram:

[chumpy36]

Apr 25, 2022 21:34:12 GMT -5 newey said:

chumpy36-

What the heck, here's a diagram:

Thank you! Any opinions on north vs South? This is a PAF style four conductor pickup in the neck position. The bridge is a stacked humbucker lil59 that I'm series/parallel 'ing. And for the diagram above I would have to account for different orientation of the switch yes?

Thanks!
J

[Deleted]

Humbucker
Take the joint
GROUND the joint and you get North(near the neck one)
OUTPUT the joint and you get South(near the bridge)

You can just split the joint
And at the bottom of the push/pull join the sides to make the humbucker
And then at the top you just do one to output/ground/both

Did see one where they had a 4n7F cap and then a 6K2 resister going to Output/Ground

[newey]

Apr 26, 2022 22:55:41 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

And for the diagram above I would have to account for different orientation of the switch yes?

My diagram shows the pot upside down since that's the orientation it will be in as you wire it up. Not sure if that's what you mean by "different orientation of the switch".

[chumpy36]

Apr 27, 2022 5:19:24 GMT -5 newey said:

Apr 26, 2022 22:55:41 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

And for the diagram above I would have to account for different orientation of the switch yes?

My diagram shows the pot upside down since that's the orientation it will be in as you wire it up. Not sure if that's what you mean by "different orientation of the switch".

sorry, meant the pot.

Taking a stab at it tonight. Will report back. 

[chumpy36]

Apr 27, 2022 19:22:47 GMT -5 chumpy36 said:

Apr 27, 2022 5:19:24 GMT -5 newey said:

My diagram shows the pot upside down since that's the orientation it will be in as you wire it up. Not sure if that's what you mean by "different orientation of the switch".

sorry, meant the pot.

Taking a stab at it tonight. Will report back. 

Success! At least with part one. I wired up using the diagram here for series/parallel using the stacked bridge humbucker. When all wired up. It does make noise on the 1 and 2nd position on the switch (no strings as there is no neck), the tone gets muddy when turned down on the tone pot and when switched to parallel the output got lower and the tone got a little thinner. I also was able to do a resistance check on the pickup. In series it give 17.7-18k ohms (about what seymour duncan says it should) and when switched to parallel it goes down to about 4.5k ohms. This all seems to jib yes?

Now the next step is to coil split the neck humbucker with the second CTS pot and get that happening. Maybe tonight. Here's a pic of the progress. 

Thanks for the help everyone! I'm learning a lot! 

[chumpy36]

I've got the neck pickup wired up. I used this diagram since I'm using CTS pots. 







Everything seems to be working as I would expect except for one thing. When I split the coils on the neck humbucker, the tone of the tapping I'm doing with the screwdriver gets DEEPER. I would have expected it the tone to get higher as I am splitting to a single coil of the two. Is it possible I have the operation wrong? I want both coils when the push pull is down. It APPEARS that it's reversed (is there a way to check?).

Again thanks for all the help. 

J