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Post by thetragichero on Jun 1, 2011 21:15:59 GMT -5
so i bought a strat-style neck and body (separately) on ebay
seems that the neck pocket on the body is not deep enough so the holes don't line up
which is the lesser of two evils (where i realize the best thing to do is get another neck): drill new holes in the neck (which will lengthen the scale by an eighth-to-a-quarter inch or so) or make the neck pocket deeper with the trusty dremel tool i'll have to buy (need it also for fitting the lip of the strat singles into the body)?
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 1, 2011 21:55:46 GMT -5
so i bought a strat-style neck and body (separately) on ebay seems that the neck pocket on the body is not deep enough so the holes don't line up OK, seems we have a definition of terms issues here. If the neck pocket is "not deep enough", then the neck will ride high, and may bottom your strings out at the heel if there isn't enough adjustment in the saddles. However, and this is what I think you mean, if the neck pocket is not "long enough", then that's a different matter. A new neck would be the easiest way out...maybe... While your question is worded one way, I believe you mean something else...we're gonna go with the "something else" unless informed otherwise. First thing is, what's the physical dimensions of your neck pocket? If the neck pocket is not long enough, and the neck you currently have is truly made for a Strat pocket, then every other Strat neck you buy is going to be wrong as well. If both neck and body are made to some ancient Chinese algorithm, then disregard last comment. No. Unless you want to move the bridge/tailpiece, then don't do this. If it's a trem-leo tailpiece then definitely don't do this. If it were me, I re-route the neck pocket. But don't use a Dremel tool. You're better off with a chisel, and unless you're really good with a chisel I wouldn't recommend that, either. To do it right you're going to need a real router...and a top bearing router bit...1/2" will work, but 3/8" is better. We went through a similar topic in the Can I cut a neck shorter? thread. Several options are tossed around and I put a blurb in there about how I re-route a neck pocket on the 2nd or 3rd page as I recall. If the neck pocket is too small, and you want to use a Strat style neck, then routing it to a standard Strat size is the way to go. That way you can always replace the neck with any Strat style neck and be fine. For reference, here's a Strat neck pocket:  Remember, Tele necks and Strat necks are two different pockets. Not wildly dis-similar, but different. Other builders have their own idiosyncrasies...like Ibanez, etc... With the right tools you can make any bolt-on neck fit any bolt-on body and maintain the scale without effecting the bridge location. Buy the Dremel tool. Not for the neck pocket, but for all kinds of other things...like grinding pickup tabs...polishing frets...all sorts of wood butchery is possible with one of these bad boys... Let me know if I completely missed your point, or please clarify the issue...so we can ask you still more questions... Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2011 21:59:31 GMT -5
Aftermarket err.... strikes again!!! Although if you spend the extra cash and get the 400pc. deluxe dremel kit it'll be an investment that'll last a long time.
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 1, 2011 22:27:07 GMT -5
you were right, i said depth and meant length
if it means anything, the body is a plywood aria strat-copy, the neck is a washburn lyon-series strat neck that i would guesstimate is two or three years old
fortunately, i'm going to refinish both my main strat and beater strat, so i'll have those necks lying around while the paint dried for at least a couple weeks... just figured i'd solicit opinions well before it becomes an issue
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 1, 2011 22:36:45 GMT -5
just roughly laying the washburn neck over both my warmoth and squier necks, i think it's the neck pocket not being long enough (as all three necks seemed to be the same. i'll measure it all out at some point)
thank you for making me think about it before hacking away at the body!
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 1, 2011 23:10:10 GMT -5
after checking online, the problem is that the neck pocket is routed tele style (square instead of rounded)
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Post by lpf3 on Jun 2, 2011 0:04:58 GMT -5
after checking online, the problem is that the neck pocket is routed tele style (square instead of rounded) Usually it's OK to use a Strat neck heel in a Tele shaped pocket- the length checks out and there are small voids on each side where wood was rounded off. It's the other way around that's problematic because the Tele heel has more wood (where it's not rounded) and you can't push the neck back far enough. But, Ok - no matter....... The problem I think you'll be faced with is that the neck is tapered and the pocket is tapered to match. You can remove some wood from the neck pocket, but because of the taper- the farther back you go the wider the pocket becomes. And the bigger the gaps will become on both sides of the neck. You'll likely have an ill-fitting neck joint, bad for resonance (sustain) but also playability and appearance. I dunno........  Might not hurt anything. Are your intonation screws long enough to cover this & still keep the saddles on the bridge plate? If so, then plugging the existing screw holes & drilling new ones might be an option. Definitely the simplest. Don't start drilling on my word- I'm just sayin' that this might be worth lookin into- it's where I would start. -lpf3 |
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Post by lpf3 on Jun 2, 2011 0:09:08 GMT -5
Besides, how'd you get a Strat style body with a Tele neck pocket? Is it a Squier 51?
-lpf3
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 2, 2011 1:54:50 GMT -5
rear routed aria body (plywood) from the 80s (says the seller, and i'd believe it from how old the cavities look) i'm a drop d player (blame it on grunge), so i generally have the low e (d) string alllll the way back anyway... i'm sure i could find longer screws at the hardware store anyway  i suppose someone should smite me for not checking the neck pocket shape to begin with? |
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 2, 2011 2:04:39 GMT -5
right now i'm in the planning stages of the neck fitting anyway... i still have tons of shielding and wiring (including figgurin out where to place the extra switches) to keep me occupied for the few non work hours a week i can budget for this build anyway (and it's not like i don't have other partscasters to keep me well-slung for rehearsal, gigs, and recording in the meantime... this is just a project to use up some of the pickups i couldn't find a home for in my main strat)
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 8, 2011 19:27:17 GMT -5
A-HA!
a bit of googling and i've discovered that the neck pocket is routed for a charvel-style neck!
mystery solved!
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 8, 2011 20:06:35 GMT -5
If you've got a Fender style neck and a Charvel neck pocket, the width should be a problem too. Fender is traditionally a 2-3/16" wide neck pocket and Charvel is 2-1/4".
Since you didn't mention the width, then I'll assume you've got something other then a traditional Fender style neck, or someone re-routed the pocket prior to you getting a hold of it.
Tis a puzzlement...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by thetragichero on Jun 8, 2011 21:01:54 GMT -5
neck and pocket are both 2 1/4" wide
if only i could find a jackson/charvel neck with a maple board and normal nut slot on ebay for cheap, i'd bite the bullet and just do that
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 8, 2011 21:26:10 GMT -5
Jackson\Charvel necks are always on eBay. Most will be routed and drilled for a locking nut. Check the scale length before you buy. As I recall, they can run in two different sizes depending on the number of frets.
Before you bid, provided it's not mentioned in the auction, ask the seller the dimension to the 12th fret from front of the nut.
24.75" Scale = 12.375"
25.5" Scale= 12.750"
HTC1
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Post by ashcatlt on Jun 9, 2011 12:03:11 GMT -5
Ummmm...
Did you actually measure the scale? Nut to 12th fret should be half the scale length and the same as 12th to bridge. If it measures out as such with the neck in as-is then you move the screw holes.
This may seem remedial, but we often overlook the obvious. You didn't actually mentioned having taken this step.
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Might not hurt anything. Are your intonation screws long enough to cover this & still keep the saddles on the bridge plate? If so, then plugging the existing screw holes & drilling new ones might be an option. Definitely the simplest.
