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Post by MattB on Jun 3, 2022 13:35:50 GMT -5
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Post by stevewf on Jun 3, 2022 16:31:10 GMT -5
Now it looks like it's on a 9mm green plastic-housed pot with (like the alpha had) PCB lugs. That's what caught my eye and made me think of the plastic Bourns pots.
In turn, the reason for my interest there is the multi-function options in the Bourns lineup - like concentric, or multi-gang, and/or p/p and rotary switches (though the latter is "turn pot past zero opens spst", which doesn't seem useful in a guitar). Will the pots be any good?
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Post by unreg on Jun 19, 2022 1:30:20 GMT -5
Today, I worked on my StewMac GhostDrive, a klon clone. I sanded the case, painted it with a blue aqua spray, applied the GhostDrive stickers, and added more paint; painted it with 2 coats of a clear matte spray paint so those stickers won’t fall off. And I completed installing all of its resistors into its PCB board. I realize this isn’t exciting, but I’m going to edit this post tomorrow, around noon, to add two photos of my accomplishment today (jsyk, today ends after I fall asleep).
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Post by newey on Jun 19, 2022 7:27:21 GMT -5
stevewf- Currently languishing on my workbench is my "Strat with 3 volumes", still looking for a body and neck to use. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/9117/strat-3-volumesBut the idea is that each pickup gets its own dedicated volume with a SPST on/off switch, so each can be turned on/off individually, giving all 7 parallel combos ( sans phase). frets said that she was doing something similar. So maybe not so useless after all.
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Post by stevewf on Jun 23, 2022 1:34:17 GMT -5
stevewf- Currently languishing on my workbench is my "Strat with 3 volumes", still looking for a body and neck to use. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/9117/strat-3-volumesBut the idea is that each pickup gets its own dedicated volume with a SPST on/off switch, so each can be turned on/off individually, giving all 7 parallel combos ( sans phase). frets said that she was doing something similar. So maybe not so useless after all. Yes, now I see by reading that thread. Incidentally, a question/suggestion: to avoid the "cut out" that happens when in parallel and a volume pot is turned down, what about wiring the volume pots backward, i.e. swap lugs #1 and #2? I'm reminded of another thread HSH 3 push pull pots wherein I learned that volume pots wired this way can interact with a tone pot. On the 3-Vol Strat, there'd be no tone pot, so is this still a consideration? If not, would wiring the volume pots this way obviate the need for a cut-out switch?
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Post by newey on Jun 23, 2022 5:07:26 GMT -5
If a volume pot is wired backwards, the pickup will never be fully "off" with the pots turned all the way down. But doing so also changes the operation of the pot as you turn it down, making the volume control a bit wonky.
By using the pots with a switch, we can take the pot out of the circuit entirely when the pickup is off, so that it is not loading the other pickups.
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 1, 2022 18:20:51 GMT -5
wife and i bought a house yesterday. occupied by the tenants for another couple of months but that'll give me time to turn the two car garage into a combination studio and workshop. here is a whole lot of lumber. mass weighted vinyl and green glue should be delivered tomorrow. lots of work but i should have a close to soundproof live room (drywall and insulation will be purchased when this stuff is up)
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Post by newey on Jul 2, 2022 7:36:09 GMT -5
Cool! We moved into our current house 6 years ago and my music room is still under construction . . .real life intrudes.
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Post by cynical1 on Jul 2, 2022 9:08:07 GMT -5
What's a music room?
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Post by unreg on Jul 4, 2022 18:03:05 GMT -5
I’d imagine a sound proof room… where you could play music on a record player with subwoofers and great acoustics and the rest of the family/neighbors wouldn’t mind… it would also be a prime spot to practice guitar/work on songs at any time. No one else would be able to care, bc they can’t hear you/your music. The walls might be equipped with guitar holders of some sort. That’s just my imagination of a music room.
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Post by gckelloch on Jul 15, 2022 18:46:59 GMT -5
wife and i bought a house yesterday. occupied by the tenants for another couple of months but that'll give me time to turn the two car garage into a combination studio and workshop. here is a whole lot of lumber. mass weighted vinyl and green glue should be delivered tomorrow. lots of work but i should have a close to soundproof live room (drywall and insulation will be purchased when this stuff is up) One thing I remember well from the book All You Need Is Ears by the late George Martin was the unforeseen issues with building a studio. Two main construction factors to really isolate a room would be to build an entire room suspended within the Garage. Something like Sorbothane pads could be used under support beams and at all corners to absorb any rumble that might come from nearby trucks or large aircraft flying over. The other one is to build a two-door entry, so there is air between them to further reduce sound transfer. Of course, room ventilation could be complicated, but there are likely standard ways of doing that with foam lining and right angles or whatnot. Again, Sorbothane between any ducting and room attachment points would be a good idea, although something cheaper might be just as effective. Gel pads?
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 15, 2022 20:45:29 GMT -5
have to attach the bottoms plates to the concrete with tapcons but the floor "joists" (just 2x4s laying flat) will be on top of a rubber underlayment to sightly decouple from the floor, and then another layer between the subfloor and whatever engineered hardwood. entry to studio will be through a door into the control room/guitar storage and then another door into the live room. this whole structure won't be attached to the exterior/load-bearing walls, just to the concrete slab right now i am at the step of insulating existing exterior walls. tried doing blown cellulose insulation today (into nets stapled to studs) and it was an utter failure. blew a total of two 25lb bags with half of it ending up on the floor (or in my eyes). the rest is either packed too much or not at all, so i broke down and ordered roll fiberglass insulation. this is what i get for trying to save a few bucks. that goes in tomorrow and I'll post some pictures put a wall in front of door that won't open. roughed in electrical. gonna have a 60amp sub panel out here. this is a boarded up window but will be a door once the side deck gets torn up. will have an enclosed walkway between the house and shop for the snowy winters
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 16, 2022 20:10:49 GMT -5
okay fiberglass roll insulation is the way to go. here's how i left it today, 5 4x8 sheets of mass weighted vinyl hung over the insulation, two of the three windows are covered (third will get done tomorrow or Tuesday). scooped up most of the blown insulation and carefully put it behind the osb i had already installed
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Post by unreg on Jul 17, 2022 14:21:48 GMT -5
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 17, 2022 20:03:30 GMT -5
got a lot done today. Tuesday or Wednesday I'll put up the final insulation and boards so i can start building walls. I'll leave the bit where the circuit breaker goes out until i find a local electrical supply house (since i also need 6awg wire that doesn't seem to be available at the big box stores)
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 19, 2022 21:17:55 GMT -5
aight basically finished the exterior walls (save for a 4x4 section because 1. i ran out of osb and 2. my sub panel is going somewhere there so why not wait until i can custom cut around it). started filling the gaps with acoustic sealant. could use another tube but it was getting late. when i run out of acoustic sealant I'll definitely use up the almost full case of dap dynaflex i have left from finishing the house. should be better than nothing cleaned the floor filling two contractor bags, stowed material i won't be using until the walls are up so now there's plenty of room to whack em together
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 20, 2022 16:36:26 GMT -5
made some patch panels. look kinda janky but i didn't want to spend almost 200 bucks to buy these pre made so these are good enough
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Post by unreg on Jul 20, 2022 17:48:02 GMT -5
On the male microphone port panel the numbers are (1,2), (3,4), (5,6).
But, on the female microphone port panel you have (1), (2,3), (4,5), (6).
So, for me, that set up would be a bit difficult bc it would be necessary for me to memorize two separate, input and then output, panels… and/or… pause to read their labeling each time an input or output cable is changed.
You’ve probably already thought this through… maybe the existing wiring makes each panel mandatory. But, just thought it would be good to share my NOT-a-big-deal uneasiness about your panels.
EDIT: I’m not sure if this is still possible, but if you switched B and 6 on the female microphone port panel, then you’d have odd on bottom and even on top… AND both ‘A’s would be on top and both ‘B’s would be on bottom. That may be easier on you… don’t know.
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 20, 2022 19:11:51 GMT -5
4 gang panel goes in control room into (and out of) interface. single gang panel goes on the other side of that wall. one xlr and one trs is enough for there. 3 gang panel goes on the far wall behind the drum kit, enough xlr jacks to mic up the drums and a trs for a headphone feed (could be an additional mic with an xlr-to-trs adapter). other options are using a di in the control room and one in reverse in the live room to plug into an amp so no cables under the door like i've always done. numbers and letters are to keep track of what goes where. colors would've worked too but the label maker was right next to where i put these together so that's what they got. trs jacks are on top because they'll likely be used for headphones so the cables will go 'up' whereas the xlr cables will go down to the floor
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Post by unreg on Jul 20, 2022 19:28:40 GMT -5
Ah! This will be a studio too! Thank you for explaining; this has finally sunk in.
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 26, 2022 19:21:24 GMT -5
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 30, 2022 12:21:25 GMT -5
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Post by gckelloch on Aug 6, 2022 20:07:29 GMT -5
Finally posting the finished pics of my Baritone Jagcaster build. All the details are in this folder: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FGXk89lSmkLjFhsIvRZaVbQXqML48qho?usp=sharingI applied a few coats of red-tinted Polycrylic over a coat of tinted green to get a Copper sheen effect. There are actually thousands of silver dots lining the wood grain I painstakingly created with a Dremel and Acrylic paint, but they can only be seen at certain angles...uhg! The diagonal lines are actually in the wood grain and have a sort of flame look. I had ordered a two-piece Black Limba body but discovered, to my chagrin, it was a three-piece. They refunded me some for the mistake, but I shan't use their services again. I'd rather not mention the company. The neck is flamed baked-maple with a Pau Ferro FB. I did two quick coats of Tru-Oil. It came out nice. I had put some stickers on the FB that looked kinda' cool, but they started peeling and it actually looks more tasteful now with the Jade Stone dots. Not bad for a first try, if I don't say (and I do!). I'm considering changing the 3rd string to the plain, rather than the wound, I included in the custom Sfarzo "Touchtones" set I had made up. I'm not sure I like the tone of the brass saddle on the top two strings. The other saddles are Ti-coated Steel. I got a cheap thin Steel Wilkinson-branded bridge because I wanted a less metallic sound via more resonance damping. I think I like that. The Wilde Micro-Coil pickups are both 1.8H because I wanted something close to the original Lipstick pickup sound, albeit with stronger lower harmonics and better highs. I wired the Volume as a Volume/Tone knob with a 7n4F C value & 25k R as a parallel TB to get a varying peak as the V is turned down. It has a custom pickup blend system on the other knob. It's all explained in the Gdoc in the folder. Not sure I'd want to go through all that again. I don't really have the space or inclination to finish a guitar body. Heck, the pickguard alone took ~4 hours to design and another 4 to complete, including 2.5 grueling hours cutting it out with a coping saw on a box in my living room, and the pickup holes are not uniform at all. It also cracked behind the bridge pickup right when I put the last screw in, but it's not visible and holds the pickup in place. I think I'd need a CNC laser machine for that type of thing, and I just don't care that much. I really should have extended the rear corners right to the back of the bridge but "hindsight...". I still want to mount the Cu disks I taped together, coated with tinted epoxy, and topped with the Quetzalcoatl keychain I got in Cancun, but I need to cut out another piece of the pickguard material to mount it on to unify the look. The added weight will actually balance the guitar, which will then be ~7lbs. The plastic parrot on the headstock was from another keychain. BTW, anyone interested in buying a set of Wilde Micro-Coils, and willing to replace the non-magnetic pole screws that were inadvertently swapped by the supplier, it doesn't appear that the cheap Steel Alloy screws I bought have any effect on the Q but they increase output by ~6dB at the same distance as the stock nonmagnetic screws. Here are the SPL graphs I took of the 1.8H neck MC-T with and without the Steel alloy replacement screws using an earbud with white noise running through it. The graph with the screws in is ~2dB lower because the earbud was ~2mm farther from the coil and the magnetic force from the pickup has virtually no effect on the Cu coil in the earbud: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yeQAf4771co0GPSnQkWWf_wrtcH3zJZK?usp=sharing
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Post by stevewf on Aug 10, 2022 1:02:54 GMT -5
Finally getting back to work on a S-H-S guitar whose guts I've been cooking for too long. But to work on it, I felt like I needed a convenient way to test, reconfigure and test again, without disturbing the strings and pickguard and without having to de-solder and re-solder, over and over. So I'm working on what I call the Ash Lab: [pictured here with a Spin-a-Split test config / Edit: those with too much time on their hands may see that it's just a master volume] Essentially, the guitar's coils get extra long leads that connect to the Ash Lab's breadboard. Also connected to breadboard are standard controls, as well as jack (for a standard cable that goes to the amp). Now I can try different configurations without disturbing the strings and pickguard, and without the soldering iron. This thing has been in various stages of development for over a year now. There are a few photos of its history and more at Flckr, here. Now I can get on with deciding how to wire that guitar! But also, any thoughts on improvements?
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Post by thetragichero on Aug 11, 2022 18:26:00 GMT -5
finish the subfloors. smeared some acoustic caulk in the little spaces between boards. started drilling for my conduit. those funny metal plates restore some of the strength to the studs that's lost by making a 2 1/8" hole (that's a TON of material) but I'll also add a second blocking board (besides the ones that'll be at 48" on center from the floor) to strengthen em up. rapco installation grade bulk mic cable was only 15 cents per foot at guitar center which is nice to finally have an affordable purchase in this project
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Post by unreg on Aug 12, 2022 12:16:40 GMT -5
Is acoustic caulk sold? Or is caulk always acoustic?
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Post by thetragichero on Aug 12, 2022 15:56:04 GMT -5
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Post by unreg on Aug 12, 2022 18:20:24 GMT -5
Wow, thetragichero, really cool! Did you read this in the description: Anyways, that caulk has 3, that I read, 5star reviews! 😀
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Post by thetragichero on Aug 12, 2022 21:52:16 GMT -5
i figure it's similar to the green glue acoustic sealant but it was half the price and i had already spent an ungodly amount on green glue and mass-loaded vinyl. but if it keeps the neighbors happy then it's worth it
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Post by stevewf on Aug 13, 2022 10:20:17 GMT -5
By the way, and for those who might get a kick out of this, the name " Ash Lab" is inspired by a character in a 1979 film. What character, in what film? Why that character? Ash is a character in the film. It turn out "he" is an android, and the android gets its head knocked off in a struggle. After the struggle, the humans wish to query the android, so they hook up its head to some electronics and it's able to converse, even though it's in bits & pieces (YouTube). The idea is that, like the character in the film, a guitar can be made functional despite having guts on a table instead of inside the guitar, and one can get "info" (i.e. results of wiring models) from it.
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