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Post by cynical1 on Jun 22, 2013 21:07:22 GMT -5
But, then too, rock bands would tour with the obligatory Marshall stacks, and they'd have a "wall of Marshalls" set up behind the band, just for show. This never made a lick of sense to me, but apparently someone decided that it didn't look like a real Rock Show without a bunch of amps behind the band. Well, you they could take a page out of Geddy Lee's book and use washing machines: ...or chicken rotisseries: HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 21, 2013 15:16:37 GMT -5
Final thoughts...hmmmm Where to begin...
Over the past few decades I've installed a lot of stuff on a lot of guitars and basses. Some were good, some were not so good. Some companies went out of business...and some should have... Having seen my share of things, I have my own standards and parts I use on my personal instruments.
You already know my proclivity towards Schaller.
As to Fender aftermarket trems... I've seen a lot of them. Some show slight improvements, others make you scratch your head. While I've never installed the Super-Vee trem it hits me as the most logical and brilliant fix to the original Leo device's inherent known issues. The Callaham is a nice unit and would be my first choice if I was happy with the Leo design. Babicz makes a nice "full contact" unit as well. But again, if it were my guitar, I'd opt for the Super-Vee.
I looked at the Wudtone device, and while it's an improvement on the Leo design, it doesn't impress me enough to buy one. you still have the same issue of a friction pivot point that will vary over time and use. I did like the idea of a steel block, and the hardened steel they used in the bridge.
Final thoughts are.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 21, 2013 11:53:41 GMT -5
That's love, newey...all I'm gonna say...
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 20, 2013 17:18:18 GMT -5
If I ever need a lawyer again, I want that guy.
Nice find.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 19, 2013 14:32:44 GMT -5
OK. We all agree scraping the existing GN2 forum will be a crapshoot. We're going to lose data, members, etc... I kind of have to go with Ash on this, it ain't that bad with the update that we can't live with it if too much data goes South.
To me, the real and only motivator behind any exodus and migration would be to break out from under the existing Admin structure. PB limits access, understandably, and sumgai and newey are locked in a bunker by themselves running this place. They can't promote members because the only one who can is perennially AWOL.
So, I guess it comes down to how much can be scraped, is it enough to make it relatively seamless, or is the motivation to gain more access and control worth the data dump gone awry.
The Devil you know...
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 18, 2013 20:07:10 GMT -5
A bit of an update. Plugging the holes from the tuning posts. Reducing the size of the headstock. Well, at least you used real wood to plug the old bass tuner holes. One thing I always do when coming up with a headstock design is to use a paper template with the tuner locations and string paths scribed in. Saves a lot of "oh crap!" moments later. This headstock can still be made to work, but you're going to have to do some layout work first. That's an aesthetic issue, really. Is that nut glued in place? Unless it's the light, or camera angle, you're going to have a lot of filing to do to get that brass nut down to a useable height profile...unless you're making a slide baritone guitar. Well, pattern maker is a non-starter... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 17, 2013 22:01:06 GMT -5
Blue Murder came out fantastic, Cyn. Great job! If I ever make it out your way I will expect you to demo every switch. I might be coming your way sooner. I'll demo the switches for you, but I'll need a signed waiver if you're gonna try it yourself... Good to see you again, buddy. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 17, 2013 14:52:31 GMT -5
I am purposely not putting up a poll on this, since I know they're like fingernails on a chalkboard to some guys But as discussed in the thread here regarding the new software, there are multiple reasons that may behoove us to look elsewhere for a host. And, of course, there is concern about the cost of going to a website-hosted type of environment. We would, of course, be ad-free if we did so. Which leaves the question of needing to raise funds. Lunaalta suggested that members may be willing to donate to the enterprise, so I'm asking for a show of hands on that topic. Specifically: 1) Would you be willing to give $5 USD per year for the cost of G-Nutz2? What if it were $10? Well, I would, but with all of the free resources existing out there as it is I don't see a growth in membership. Potentially just the opposite. Taking the Public Television or Radio model here in the US as an example, only about 10% of all users of that service contribute. And we don't offer regular content. We are more of a reference site.
I guess the unknown in all of this is would someone pay money to ask a question that may, or may not, be the answer they were looking for or could utilize?
I may be dating myself with this, but here's the first mental image that popped into my head reading this:2) Rather than an outright donation, if G-Nutz2 offered merchandise, such as coffee mugs or T-shirts, with the G-Nutz logo and/or G-Nutz related slogans, would you buy such items, with all proceeds going towards the site? Sure. Guitar picks, mugs, t-shirts...stuff like is cool, and something the regulars would buy. Might even act as a catalyst to expand the site. Or, leave one of us with a lot less of their spare room to utilize for domestic purposes.3) Would you buy tickets to a raffle, with suitable prizes, with the proceeds going to the site? Probably not...but most of you all know how my luck runs...4) Would you be extremely offended by any sort of solicitation, even if it meant an ad-free, stable environment? Well, I block ads. I'm sure I'm not the only one. And I'm not convinced this is a viable means of supporting a site. It can act as a supplement to other income, but to me the jury is still out on that being a valid paradigm anymore.What say you all? Going solo is a big step. There are regulars here who know what I mean. It can be very time consuming and will generate real costs.
While the latest ProBoards upgrade has caused some bumps and oddities, and certainly is a motivator for change, I'm still firmly on the fence in taking this on as a unique entity. My first impulse is to look for another forum host that allows more control and admin capabilities.
But hey, just playing Devils Advocate again...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 14, 2013 20:08:58 GMT -5
*Like* hahaaha! Now, If there was a like button, I wouldnt be clogging up this thread with another post! Don't make us come down there and put this button in: HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 14, 2013 19:51:01 GMT -5
Today i received the X-bridge! Glad the whole X-Bridge think worked out and you have the model you were after to begin with. Looks like you already solved the problem of removing the old posts from the Kahler. So, let's move on to your second question: If it were me, and that's how I'm going to answer this, I would route the body like this: You'll notice this covers all of the routing for the old Kahler unit. It also walks right up to the bottom edge of the humbucker routing. This fixes the body crack at the same time. I'd route down about 15/16" and fill it with a 1" piece of wood. You can make this piece, or, if you can find a lumber yard that does milling, a cabinet shop, or a pattern shop you can have the pieces made to a tight tolerance for a fair price. I did this with Project #1 and was amazed at the tightness of the tolerances I got back. I doubt you'll find anyone with basswood in stock, but either alder or poplar should be readily available, and they both share similar characteristics with basswood. You'll be sanding and blending the 1/16" back into the existing body, but it's better to be too high than too low with these fill pieces. Besides, alder or poplar sands very quickly. I can't tell from the pictures, but the LR Baggs bridge you have should work with a standard Fender 2 post trem routing template. Since you now have the bridge, a trip to any music store that sells Fender should give you a golden opportunity to hold your trem against the Fender trems to see if a standard Fender trem template would work. These templates are usually less than $15.00 and well worth the expense. As much as possible i like to take advantage of the existing routing in my floating setting: The one thing to consider in your desire to reuse or save as much of the existing routing on this body as possible is mounting the new trem bridge in a position that will allow you to successfully intonate late. Looking at the image below... I put them side by side. The red line is a reference point running through the middle of the existing posts. The blue line is running through what I am taking as an intonated saddle on the Kahler. I am also assuming both trems bridges are sitting within the through routed cavity to the back spring cavity. As I mentioned above, you really can't save the existing Kahler routing without leaving a big patch of useless ugly behind it. So, assuming you're going to fill as detailed above, the trick is re-routing the new through cavity accurately on top to allow you to maintain scale length and accurate intonation later. To me, it looks like you're close, but the saddles on the X-Bridge look pretty close to all the way out already. You may only need to move the routed through cavity fractions of an inch, but your focus needs to be on locating the bridge accurately on top. I don't think you'll need to do anything with the back routings for the springs cavity. Even if there's a small step between the original back routings and the new front routings, it should be no more that 1/8" to 5/32", which will still be covered by the back plate and has no effect on the operation of the new X-Bridge. The new fill piece allows you to drill clean holes to mount the post and their required depth. Again, just gluing a bar, or some other well intentioned fix is not going to give you the result or performance you should expect from this new X-Bridge. Granted, it's more work, will require a refinish, but it's the only real permanent fix when swapping out bridges this drastically different. We can walk you through the play by play on this, as there is more to this than I've gone in to here, so don't feel like we're gonna throw you to the wolves. Anything I might have glossed over, please feel free to ask for a clarification. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 14, 2013 15:18:22 GMT -5
Is that 2, 3 or more springs.... .........sorry.......... Should have seen that one coming... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 13, 2013 14:03:59 GMT -5
*Like* HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 13, 2013 11:31:41 GMT -5
At first glance, I'm reminded of ChrisK's photoshopped (or was it Wolf's) pic with all the extra switches pasted on it. Yeah, it does look like a flight simulator at first glance. I got lucky with this neck. I found this on eBay a few years ago for around $35.00. It was CNC'd to a rough shape, tuner holes located and drilled, nut slot and fret slots all located and cut. I just sanded a longer radius on the top of the headstock and left as much wood as I could on the back to accommodate the heavy strings. Like SG, I always liked the Tele headstock on a Strat style guitar. Never a big fan of the Strat headstock profile. The methodology was to have everything work in crescents top to bottom. By this, anything for the neck is at the top of the crescent and it just work down ward to the bridge. The S/P switching works pretty much the same way. The coil split for the bridge is at the bottom of the outside crescent just below the bridge volume, so I don't bump it, but can still locate it quickly. The local S/P switch for the bridge is stuttered off line a touch, and uses a smaller paddle, again, so it doesn't get bumped. The Bridge On switch is up at the 5-Way 1-2 position, because that's about the only time it's going to be on, so why not have it close to where you're going to use it? The Free Woman Tone mod switches are located between the volume and tone pots of the zone they control. That's the Cliff Notes on the method behind the madness. I was very lucky with this body as it has a control cavity big enough to grow geraniums in, so locating everything was very easy. I could probably toss a phase switch in there if I wanted to. Believe it or not, the layout is fairly intuitive. This was largely worked out under ChrisK's methodology of designing in modules, so, if you think of the controls within their respective modules it's actually a pretty quick study. There are some idiosyncrasies in series mode, which are detailed above, that might make it tricky to use live in the heat of the moment, but for recording or just banging around it's no problem. I really need to get some sound samples up on this guitar... Slacking is. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 12, 2013 17:01:50 GMT -5
Ok, in Firefox, go to the Menu Bar, click Tools, then Options. Look for the Content tab. Third checkbox down is Enable Javascript. That's about all you can do directly in Firefox.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 11, 2013 22:27:31 GMT -5
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 11, 2013 22:07:38 GMT -5
Hmmm....is it just me, but do you now no longer have the codes and emoticons and such to say, quote or put in a youtube vid link? All I am seeing is an 'add attachment' (I am in a photo club that went to proborads recently and this allows pics direct if fime is under 1MB) but nothing happens, preview...where nothing happens and BBCode where nothing happens! Is this something wrong my end or teething problems? ALl I can do is type like this. Links automatically come up as hot...otherwise, nada! If you run NoScript, or any script blocker you'll need to make a few exceptions to get the formatting bar back. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 11, 2013 12:02:11 GMT -5
One of the things that I keep forgetting about PB, and not-so-big a reason most of the time, is that PB does NOT let us Admins have a backup copy of anything, including the membership list. The only way, currently, to communicate with members via the PM mechanism is either all or none - everybody or no one. What if PB had a major crash (they did, a few years ago), and I wanted to alert the rest of the core group? Couldn't do it. What if I wanted to track IP address usage? As it stands now, it's done on an individual basis - no way to analyze from the general side, only individual by individual. (Comparisons can be made, yes, but only as they crop up, there's no way to see any sequences, and therefore predict any trends.) Hosting our own forum would allow all that, and much more. sumgai I wouldn't argue any of those points, and we could both rattle off a bag full of other things self-hosting would offer. Live would be simplified and enhanced in administering this forum. I'm not sure how far down the "self-hosting" wormhole you're thinking of going. Probably a good offline discussion or two. My only concerns would be the time and resources required to pull that off. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 11, 2013 11:11:45 GMT -5
I'm curious as to what facebook-like features y'all are so railing against? Well, I'm not sure if it's Farcebook, specifically, because it seems the major change from update was to integrate a single logon\account access to multiple forums throughout ProBoards. So, they must see some demographic or business related need to simplify life for users on multiple forums. I will say, the $2.99 "GIFT" concept versus the free EXULT nod to a member that deserves kudos does chap my butt. I admit, my skin does begin to crawl at the thought of anything Zuckerberg. Social media, as a whole, strikes me as the anti-viagra, but I digress... Business is business and anything offered for free will have some some scheme stitched into it. For the time being I don't have a serious problem with anything ProBoards has done with this update, but I haven't seen what newey and sumgai have seen. Something most of you have no knowledge or awareness of is the inherited admin structure newey and sumgai have been working under since RandomHero abdicated power. Until RH, or the space aliens, come back and promote other members to allow admin access it's the two of them out in the storm alone. This blankets over everything from smacking spammers, maintaining order to actually posting and sharing their knowledge and insights. IMHO, if anything would motivate a change this would be top of the list for them. It would be for me. Yeah, I figured playing the devil's advocate would elicit that response from our very own advocate. No objections, counselor. There actually is a lot of talent lurking here. They've just had the good sense to keep their heads down... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 21:52:36 GMT -5
Well, the downside of hosting this ourselves is money. Granted, none of us are paid or otherwise compensated for what we do here, but that's not why we're here in the first place.
If we do decide to host this ourselves there will be expenses...regular monthly expenses, server, software, licensing... Talk about the devil you don't know...
And you make a good point. With everything going in the social media direction we may very well wind up in this same boat again down the road.
A migration will also mean another change for members to get used to...and the PMs that will inevitably flow freely.
Well, just thought I'd stop by and muddy the waters.
Carry on.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 13:42:39 GMT -5
Hey, Happy Birthday Gumbo. Belated or not...and with or without mirrors.
In keeping with a fine tradition, let me yank this thread off line and ask if anyone caught the price of gold yesterday?
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 13:38:25 GMT -5
Honestly, it makes no difference to me which way we go. I'm cool with the consensus, or just some despotic dictate.
I know the current restrictions and admin privilege issues in place since the abdication of our founder will go away. That will allow newey and sumgai some welcome relief and assistance.
Another location may also allow us to implement better gate keeping measures to snipe more spammers.
Come to think about it, it probably does make more sense to leave the kiddie pool and migrate elsewhere.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 13:31:10 GMT -5
Now that bar looks threaded. Hope springs eternal.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 13:26:46 GMT -5
Very close to how I did the fills on Project #1 and #2. I used TiteBond 2, Dremeled the seam and filled with epoxy wood filler. Sand it flat and once the paint goes on you can't see anything.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 13:23:00 GMT -5
I have another question... On my current build my body blank is black walnut with very nice feathering almost throughout. I am going to keep it natural with a polished laquer finish. To get a feel for how much feathering is in the wood I wiped a little vegi oil on it and the feathering just doesn't pop. I was wondering if there are any techniques that would aid in making the feathering stand out? I have seen on one build where an amber stain was wiped onto quilted maple, then sanded and then a blue stain was applied really making the quilt stand out. Didn't know if this would work with the walnut.... with a final apllication of boild linseed oil to darken the wood Maple is a much lighter wood and it's easier to make either quilted or flamed grains pop out. With maple, the trick is a black wood dye, not stain, sand most of it off, then apply your colored wood dye. This gives it an almost 3D effect. Again, this works great on maple. And if you want to see the grain on a piece of wood, rub it with denatured alcohol. Vegetable oil is great for french fries, but it's a contaminant if you're looking to use lacquer down the road. It's also not going to simulate a final gloss finish. Oils never pop the grain like polished lacquer. I wouldn't suggest doing that one again, unless you want a linseed\gun oil finish...which may be inevitable depending on how much vegetable oil you put on there. Without seeing the piece of wood you have it's hard to offer any useable suggestions. Dark stains on dark wood may give you some interesting results in the right light, but probably not what you're after. Do you have any pictures? Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 10, 2013 10:32:13 GMT -5
Actually, I kind of like the ability to edit a post in PREVIEW mode, versus constantly refreshing to catch all my typos.
Like it or not, this is it, as ProBoards will not revert us back.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 9, 2013 21:04:11 GMT -5
A simple basic was also one of the reasons why i wanted to go for the Vintage 6 screws model. Although it maybe not that simple: look at that picture here: x-bridge, 2 poles, and apparently no plastic bushing..? Well, no bushing you can see. Pretty hard to tell how this arm mounts. I admit, I was wholly unimpressed with the amount of technical information on the LR Baggs website. I see you even hit their forum, too. Not a lot of front end support either place. Save your receipt. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 9, 2013 11:26:34 GMT -5
It looks like the same design holding the bar either way. It looks like they've put some sort of plastic bushing inside the housing for the rod. Notice the small set screw at the back of the housing? My guess is that the bar is a friction mount with the small set screw to lock it. I imagine if you want it to swing free while not in use that may not happen as easily with this design. If you like the bar in a set position this should be perfect. I've never had my hands on one of these, so this is just a guess. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 9, 2013 4:02:17 GMT -5
Allmektig: Listen to this guy. He's giving you pearls.
There should be a plaque with this carved in it to act as a mantra. True is.
Again, doing it right the first time prevents having to do it again.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 8, 2013 10:39:03 GMT -5
So just spraying a very thin coat of black spray paint on the fingerboard won't work? I'm tempted to do it anyways, I mean, what's the worst that can happen? If you spray with a hard enough commercial or automotive finish, and clear-coat accordingly it might work. The final clear-coat needs to be very abrasion resistant. You do this with cheap cans of flat black aerosol cans from the hardware or home improvement store and you'll understand my point a lot better. If you're talking about the little holes on the back of the headstock that secured the old tuners, yes. If you're talking about the through holes the pegs travel through, no. Which ones are you trying to fill? As always, with anyone who come here, this is your guitar. You can take a chainsaw to it if it makes you happy. In the time I've been hanging out here, and decades previous, I've seen more problems OSM arise from "I mean, what's the worst that can happen?" than anything else. All we try and do here is keep everyone happy with all of their fingers. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 7, 2013 12:15:21 GMT -5
Where you gonna find a baritone or shortscale bass neck with ebony for $50?!? I think he's just talking about a fingerboard. West African Ebony, or Gabon Ebony, would probably run around $40.00 with the radius and slots in place. Macassar Ebony is cheaper, can be quartersawn and drops another $10.00 off the deal. You will still need to dye either one to get that deep black, so it's easier just to dye the maple. The days of getting that deep black ebony are gone, folks...unless you're sitting on that winning Lottery ticket... It's actually not a bad idea, as you can have the new fingerboard and slots cut for an exact scale length versus fudging a short scale bass neck. HTC1
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