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Post by cynical1 on Oct 7, 2014 8:46:07 GMT -5
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 3, 2014 18:16:31 GMT -5
Back to the point at hand... Give the guy some credit. Only 9 posts and he's already derailing his own threads... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 2, 2014 14:42:24 GMT -5
..... I'm conspiracy realist and am always hitting people in the mouth with truth. Sounds like cynical1 might have a new friendship budding here. I heard that...
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 2, 2014 9:24:10 GMT -5
...If only there was a site that sold spa packages or handbags er something as a front. "Hey baby, I just bought you a $189 spa package. Oh this, that's just the free guitar that came with your spa treatment." Clever. Doomed to failure, but clever none the less. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 13, 2014 0:08:03 GMT -5
But, if you want, there could be a Japanese soldier in that bunker, up on the side of the volcano cone, who still thinks WW II is ongoing. He makes occasional banzai charges and is still spry at age 88. His ammo has, however, degraded over the years, and become unstable, tending to go off at random intervals . . . Well that explains why Lee Marvin was hanging around... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 12, 2014 11:47:40 GMT -5
(Well, except for Cyn's pesky accordion player . . . ) Hey, I was busy looking to see if the Seabees left any ordinance behind...just in case the accordion player washed up. I come back and find somebody else is talking about bagpipes... Did they build a bunker while they were there? HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 9, 2014 23:41:00 GMT -5
- Wouldn't it be better to ferment the coconut juice rather than the taro?
Well, I vote we ferment the accordion player... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 9, 2014 19:11:24 GMT -5
Interesting premise. OK, the ship is going down and I need to grab my gear...
Probably grab the 6 string Peavey bass, the Son of Hyde pedal and the ancient Korg reverb. Probably take the old Peavey amp, since tubes are probably problematic on a deserted island...
So, just for the sake of argument, what's our options when the guy with the accordion washes up on shore?
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 6, 2014 14:25:23 GMT -5
"...the mastermind behind the GuitarNuts website..." "Okay then, we hold the world ransom for... One... Hundred... BILLION DOLLARS! Mwah ha ha!!.... Wow, giving it up for a gross of 50 year old bumblebee caps and a couple yards of vintage cloth covered wire... How the mighty have fallen... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 28, 2014 19:20:06 GMT -5
Looking good! It complements the Modigliani on the wall very well! Looks like someone stayed awake in Art Class. I'm happy if I can't see the numbers through the paint on my artwork... HTC1 PS: Nice guitar, BTW...
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 28, 2014 19:07:28 GMT -5
Several things come to mind immediately. First off, using a power sander is quicker, but it also allows for a larger margin of error. And you're going to have to hand sand the cutout anyway.
I might have missed the reason, but I have to ask... Why?
Another thing to think about is what you'll find when you do strip the finish. The wood may be less that attractive so a natural finish may look like...something you don't want... The top you see now may very well be an .040" veneer.
Stripping the sides is always more time consuming that stripping the top and bottom. In for a penny, in for a pound, but if I'm pulling the 80 grit green stripping snadpaper out I'm doing the entire body.
I've never used the stripper listed above. I have used aircraft stripper, and that's about the only thing that cuts through the modern catalyst\epoxy\titanium\kryptonite coatings everyone uses these days. It is messy and can leave a discoloration on the wood, so if you're going au naturale that might not be your best bet either.
At least it looks like binding is not an issue to deal with.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 28, 2014 18:56:59 GMT -5
Call me more cynical than usual, but does this design strike anyone as a design for fat guys with guitars?
A planer\joiner is going to be a requirement for the "wing" design your propose. Make sure you get one with a good adjustable calibrated backstop.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Jul 4, 2014 16:15:40 GMT -5
If you take the strings off and tap on the neck do you hear the truss rod vibrating in the routed channel?
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on May 13, 2014 18:26:16 GMT -5
In the meantime i didn't read any solid argument against my wood putty idea (given adhesion is not a problem) Well, you are now. While at times it's unavoidable after a serious injury, it's not the option of first choice for a burn. It does have a tendency of making a permanent ugly spot. The easiest way of fixing a low spot is extra thick cyanoacrylate glue. It's a great way to even out a low spot. It won't flow, dries nearly clear and is seamless under the final cover coats of clear. Be careful, as some manufacturers use agents that hate lacquer. The stuff from Satellite City with the green label is the best. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on May 11, 2014 10:44:00 GMT -5
Newey gets the prize. You have discolored the wood with oil and their ilk. The discoloration is probably permanent. That's not you biggest issue. Getting a more permanent hard finish to adhere is going to be tricky as the oil is now a barrier to adhesion. The easy road is to just keep applying something like linseed or tung oil to protect it and just live with the ugly spot.
For future reference, sanding is the most common method to remove a burn. Granted, this leaves a low spot, but unless it's a deep burn you can even much of it out.
More than likely it's a catalyst finish, so poly or any other varnish would be fine to protect the now exposed wood. Apply with a small artist brush, sand and repeat until the repair is seamless to the original finish.
Over time the oil will allow a hard finish to be applied. Shellac can be applied prior to the final hard finish to improve adhesion, but if there's too much contaminate in the wood its performance will suffer.
For the discoloration and skin oils a Q-Tip with some bleach is a good way to get as much of the original wood color back.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Mar 7, 2014 9:31:50 GMT -5
And this was brought to you by the same guy that threatens the Ban Hammer for those that post Yoko videos... This would have pried Noriega out of Panama faster that Twisted Sister.
SG...if you ever feel the need to talk to someone about this problem remember I'm just down the coast from you.
Well, I'm motivated to shut down and go to work now...
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Dec 6, 2013 9:45:48 GMT -5
I seem to be getting sucked in deeper and deeper. You've just experienced the fundamental design limitation of fretted instruments. Intonation is not 100% at every fret. Tailor it for the style you play, IE: rhythm from the 9th fret down, or shredder from the 10th fret up. The term horseshoes, hand grenades and guitar intonation all share the same aspect... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 30, 2013 4:41:33 GMT -5
What 4Real said, and remember, once you dismantle the driver\pickup, your warranty vaporizes.
Since the non-driver coil is just a dummy coil it shouldn't make a difference in functionality of said driver. But, as 4Real has pointed out, it'll be an orphan from the sustainer circuit board.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 23, 2013 12:32:46 GMT -5
In all honesty, unless you buy the custom built guitar from a builder that actually takes some pride in his work, every guitar neck has a fretting issue somewhere on the neck.
I have never, in 30+ years, ever seen a guitar come off a rack at a music store and be 100% dead nuts on. Depending on your style, you may never notice these issues, or you just learn to live with them and play around them.
The most painful part of leveling and recrowning frets on a new neck is the cost of the tools required to do it right...if you believe everything StewMac tells you. Unless you plan on doing several necks, or are just really anal about it, it's a toss up on whether to pay a tech to do it, or do it yourself.
If you decide to do this yourself a leveling and recrown is not an impossible mission to accomplish. I've seen techs do it with a simple honing stone, a Sharpie and a couple small files. I tend to take a minimal approach to the arsenal required, but if the specialized tools make it easier for you then go for it.
GD, one thing you may find useful in a refret is to use a lower profile on the higher frets. This will allow for a lower action overall without buzzing.
There is a wealth of information out there on the Internet about refretting, leveling, crowning, profile selection...etc...that I'm not going to go into too much detail here. I will say, if you have a spare neck, or just want to pick up a cheap neck on eBay, practicing will make perfect. Patience is the best asset in leveling and crowning. When I used to do this for a living it was 4 hours for a standard 22 fret neck, and another hour if the neck has binding. The first one you do is always a lot longer. It's never a quick fix and the extra time taken will reflect in the final result.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 22, 2013 9:42:30 GMT -5
Sort of late piling in on this...and I'll probably have to add to this if I come off obtuse, but time is short and work calls.
Trying to fix one fret is something akin to trying to fix a wobbly table by sawing one leg at a time. I saw my ex-mother-in-law take a dining room table and turn it into a nice coffee table by the time she got it right.
Long and short of it is attacking one or two frets will not yield the results of leveling and recrowning all of them. If they don't have the meat for the job, a re-fret is not the end of the world. Depending on your style, string gauge, string material and so on, you might be be of those guys that needs to get warm and fuzzy with the task.
Gotta run, gotta catch a train.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 3, 2013 12:49:23 GMT -5
While looking to see what's new at Wilde, I stumbled on this:
"With great sadness in our hearts, the man we know as Bill Lawrence in the music industry passed away on November 2, 2013 at approximately 9:20AM."
C1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 29, 2013 15:29:05 GMT -5
The Chicken. Of all the tunes to pick. That brings back some memories... I was wondering if it would. I bet Autumn Leaves brings back memories, too... Inside joke...the rest of you don't need to worry of you don't get it... And show those buggers in Copenhagen how it's done. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 29, 2013 3:50:29 GMT -5
Being a poor musician probably precludes the whole Fernandes or Sustainiac route. Can you afford some marine epoxy resin and a case of sandpaper? I did fretless basses back in the day and used marine expoxy resin on the fingerboards to harden them up and make them resistant to round wound strings once the frets were gone. There are many brands out there and the new stuff actually allows for a retarding agent to be used to allow it to dry slower and level better. From my experience, 6 coats is the magic number. Count on at least two to three weeks of your life vanishing in the process, though... It does require the ability to work fast...and sand forever...but it yields the hardest surface you're going to get on a fretless guitar or bass, aside from the weird metalized fingerboard that Vigier uses on their Excalibur Surfreter line. Remember, after pulling the frets the setup on the guitar\bass needs some radical tweaking. The nut and bridge need surgery, and your pickup heights will need to come down, too. With practice you can increase the sustain, but you're never going to get what you had passively once the frets are gone. Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 29, 2013 3:36:07 GMT -5
I've got one half of that pedal in the Son of Hyde. This is a unique pedal as it works just as well with the bass as it does with the guitar. I put a Digitech CM-2 Tube overdrive in front of it and get essentially the same thing and the Jekyll & Hyde pedal. Dropping the gain down on both, chaining them and using the volume on the guitar or bass to tweak the amount of color lends itself to some very nice tones. I would highly recommend this pedal to anyone looking for a versatile and useable distortion\overdrive pedal for bass or guitar. Just my 2 cents. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 29, 2013 1:22:37 GMT -5
OK, you've got two thousand Australian dollar to spend...and you're looking to spend a sizable portion on shipping charges to the States. You have a first class builder down there. For giggles, check out Ormsby GuitarsThat's my two cents... HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 29, 2013 1:16:36 GMT -5
...Who was the bald guy pictured at 4:10? That would be John Scofield. This is him with Miles Davis: This is him playing with Jaco: Hope you were taking notes...there's a test Friday... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 26, 2013 22:05:27 GMT -5
Yes, yes I did expose the boy to a good deal of fusion during his stay in Chicago. Glad some of it stuck. Guthrie is an amazing guitarist who can play a multitude of styles with incredible fluidity and ease. Probably one of the more under rated and under appreciated guitarists around these days.
A search for The Aristocrats will yield a little more Guthrie.
He also has a plethora of lesson videos out there. He's quite the comic during most of them as well.
HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 6, 2013 8:45:22 GMT -5
well i had an idea i am gonna try on my own stuff... it is the thermal paste you put between CPU and Heatsinks when building computers. it is mostly a metal paste and should not absorb into the wood in theory but have yet to try it. but it would be a great way to cut out the air pockets in the neck joint. it's just a thought... Well, I thought I'd seen just about everything you could shove into a neck pocket, but you got me with this one. When you say "air pockets", what exactly are you referring to? If you have an issue with a neck pocket not precisely fitting the neck, then you're looking at a couple options. If it's one of those "never gonna fit tight" issues, which I assume it is in this case, it all comes down to how much slop there is in the joint. Small gaps can be made up with some hardwood veneer strips strategically placed. A little sanding on a precut piece sometimes can do the job without having to build up multiple pieces. If it's sloppier than what one piece can remedy, you can use multiple pieces, but you're gonna want to get out the wood glue for this operation. Some final sanding and\or filing may be necessary for the final fit, but not too bad as a rule. The most extreme option is to fill the neck pocket with hardwood and just reroute. I'm not a big fan of this one, as it's a lot of work. I gotta say, if I had the option to use CPU paste or just a torn off piece of matchbook...I'd go with the matchbook and save the $5.00. You'll probably get a better result with the matchbook. HTC1
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 22, 2013 1:24:43 GMT -5
OK, I took my Dolasetron and checked out the clip.
I agree, the guy is well qualified. So, what's the speculation? Are the two additional knobs for the neck pickup? Good catch on the whammy bar.
Interesting. Well, the meds are wearing off...back to some Albert Collins...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Hi
Aug 21, 2013 23:32:49 GMT -5
Post by cynical1 on Aug 21, 2013 23:32:49 GMT -5
Welcome to the Nutz house.
And watch out for that sumgai...he's a real judgmental type of guy...
If you come back after this post you'll fit right in around here...
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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