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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 21, 2010 22:23:26 GMT -5
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 21, 2010 18:40:02 GMT -5
These links dont work for me
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 21, 2010 17:16:34 GMT -5
Surf. Perhaps Rockabilly, yes. Light, shallow, Bigsby-ish dives to go with the vibe. Or maybe you're more a fan of the "majestic superior cackling hen" ?
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 21, 2010 12:15:42 GMT -5
pretty cool device, but it doesnt seem like it could do the deeper surf bends. you can see that the main action of it is *up* in pitch. So, not useful for surf really. Dang, it's cool though.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 20, 2010 17:56:57 GMT -5
Just the phase switch is easy (and fun!). But, I reccomend a wiring mod to go with it which is also easy, The Switcheroo: (from JohnH) Swap the two hot wires coming from the neck and middle pups going to the 5 way switch.You will now have M N+M N N+B B Just a change of order on the 5 way gives you N+B which is a great combo. Then, put in a phase switch: This diagram has master vol/tone but the 5 way and phase switch should work with yours. Why change the order? Because, in reality, OOP isnt that great except on the N+B combo, then it's really cool. If you use a Schaller M switch (try Ebay) or the superswitch (stewmac) you can keep your same order on the 5 way switch
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 19, 2010 2:14:38 GMT -5
...the jack goes into the guitar. This jack ... Doncha mean the plug there, Jack...I mean John...I mean... The part that fits into the guitar goes there. The male end. The plug. lol, Yes, the plug is the male, and "she's got the jack"
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 18, 2010 11:43:05 GMT -5
lol, I'll measure it next time i have it apart. Yes it did take me some time. Well, I got both the tape and the paint from stewmac, i didnt have any experience with either, so I got both. I started putting down the tape and decided I could do a *pretty good* job with it, but that it would be easier to fill in all the gaps with the paint. Three coats is what is reccomended on the can when you are doing paint only. While the paint is expensive, 3 coats on just the seams and gaps took very little paint. Of course, when i measure it we'll see if it was worth it
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 17, 2010 21:02:40 GMT -5
Ok, I dont know a JFET from Mos Def. In the cable preamp, which is the guitar end? On the built in amp, could you please post a wiring diagram? I would also like to see what it would look like with a toggle instead of the jack-switch. power it with photovoltaic cells on the front of your guitar. [...] the only problem is, if there's a power failure, the lights will go out, and you'll have no sound! .........................................................hey, wait a minute! You sound like the guy who appreciated the moon more than the sun because the moon gives light at night when you really need it but the sun gives light in the day when its already light out ;D
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 17, 2010 17:03:54 GMT -5
I did mine roughly with the copper tape and then did 3 coats of conductive paint around all the seams. Does this seem like a good job or not? Well, with the fact that I went outside the pickguard with the paint notwithstanding
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 17, 2010 10:33:09 GMT -5
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 16, 2010 13:33:23 GMT -5
You'll get less of an effect with the volume pot left in, it's loading the circuit. And so, a higher ohm vol pot would give you more of that effect? The vol pot at 10 gives the highest resistance that pot is able to give, therefore, less signal is shorting out to ground? What i'm getting at here is to have the effect of the vol/tone bypass but still have the volume control, lol.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 15, 2010 22:51:51 GMT -5
I'm a terrible solderer'er but the cheap butane iron from radioshack has been working real well for me. Also, this little can of tip cleaner is great: www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721 you dip your tip in it to keep it clean and hot. Seems like that helps alot for me. Then, on the pots, I do an obviously bad job at first, but then just hold the tip right on the edge till you see the solder 'run'. Also, I was thinking that it might work to put a ring terminal on the wires and connect that under the pg, between the pot and the pg. Furthermore, if you have a good shield on the back of the pg, wouldnt that create a ground between the pots, etc? Or one strategically placed strip of copper tape?
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 14, 2010 17:55:53 GMT -5
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 14, 2010 17:33:11 GMT -5
jfp, I too hope that the websites cited aboved have misprinted that dimension. Let us know what the true skinny is, when you've got them in hand, eh? I see what you did, there ;D Yes, some sites have it wrong, Body cavity depth needed: 1-3/8 inch (34.925mm) is correct. Also, Schaller and Eyb are the same switches. I got the double stacked, M, 8p5t from Eyb himself and they say made by schaller in germany. If you were to put 2 of the regular, one plate, 4 pole switches, mounted together, the total size is 34x48mm. Here's some pics, I can post exact dimensions of things if anyone wants.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 12, 2010 12:42:23 GMT -5
With the jackplate changed to a switchplate, I could do this without any visible routing (I'll prolly have to open things up a bit in there, but all within the normal pg)
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 10, 2010 10:10:27 GMT -5
Yeah! Thanks! Oh, you mention the jack plate... At first i tried to design the pg extension to cover the jack hole and reclaim all of that real estate (moving the jack to the underside, like a tele). But I couldnt get any of the curves to look right, it just wasnt happening. But, somehow, I came across this gem: Where you see that he is using the jack space for some switches, so that could be done as well. He's got some black plate on there, but I thought I saw a pic where he uses a plate that is the same shape as the jack plate, which looked really good. Here: www.edroman.com/guitars/pearlcaster/endorsers.htm if you scroll down to Brad Gillis, it has some info about it
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 9, 2010 17:32:52 GMT -5
Oh, and I might do some routing ;D Do you like the extended pg?
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 9, 2010 17:12:12 GMT -5
Couple new things about this mod. 1. I got two 24pdt switches off ebay for... $1.80 !!! www.newark.com/t-bar/902-24c/toggle-switch/dp/23F1162 $500 dollar switches for a total of <$5! So, of course, first thing i do is get out the dremmel, took off the lower deck and sawed half off for a 6pdt. ;D Also, I changed the wiring a bit, added phase switch to the rythm channel and a vol/tone out switch for the lead. I got the schaller/eyb 4p5t switches (i'll update that other thread when i get the double stack 5 way from Eyb) I have my 30mm slider pots that I will attempt to use for the vols and tones:
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 9, 2010 16:42:28 GMT -5
Thanks man! It's really fun. Your questions: Yeah the + and - of all three pups, plus the ground (trem/body/etc) and hot to jack are on the connector. There was one spot left over, I stuck a grey wire on it just on the weird chance that i need it someday. The module thats in there is the Malibu (or I might have called it "easy"). It is the only module I have done and my only strat. I am working on my really nutty 2 channel double barrel (2CDB) circuit now: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wiring&action=display&thread=5012 I have new ideas since the last post on that thread, and have some new electronics to go in it. I should update that one. So the big advantage to me is that I can continue to work on the 2CDB while having my guitar ready to rock. And there will probly be a couple prototypes for the 2CDB before it gets finalized, so it's going to be great to just plug it in and smoke test it, etc. Something to think about, if anyone is going to try to do this and have it be really good looking, you'll need 2 pgs for every module. Because, youre going to have a kerf cut out of the pg and you'll need another bottom, cut at least a kerf width taller, to make it match up exactly.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 8, 2010 16:02:18 GMT -5
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 6, 2010 21:05:13 GMT -5
Hey, if youre trying the d-sub connectors, 2 things: 1. They have them with straight solderable terminals, like you dont have to put terminals on all the wires, then stick the sterminals into the plug. B. You can dremmel that outer metal housing off easily and they work fine and are more compact. Here's my axe with my easy module: this is the Malibu Mod, but with the Schaller/Eyb M switch for a slightly different combo set. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wiring&action=display&thread=5006 The rocker switches are Bridge Override, No Vol-Tone, and Phase switcher for Neck.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 5, 2010 16:02:08 GMT -5
jfp, Which "upper left corner of WA" are you speaking of? If you're over on the peninsula, it's a bit of a drive..... but if you're up by say, B-ham or some such, you can motor on down to Vetco Electronics in Bellevue, they have a very rich assortment of multi-contact connectors. If you do plan on such a trip, PM me for my phone number, and we'll get together for a bit - I'm about a 20 minute drive away from the place. sumgai Cool I'm in Anacortes. Yeah we'll have to get together if either of us is near the other. I'm interested to see the man behind the paper bag. I'll just tell ya now, I wont be sporting the mullet from my avatar ;D I picked up some of these: www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102497 they are quite easy to wire, each lead goes on a little pin/receptor that is supposed to be crimped, but i soldered em, then they all go in the connector. Prolly hack those mounting plates off the sides. Nice and small. Then, while doing that, I thought, well, if i had a d-sub extension cord, could just cut it in half like this www.cablesondemand.com/category/DB9/URvars/Catalog/Library/InfoManage/9-PIN_D-SUB_CABLE_%28DB9%29.htm with one end male, one end female. Get out the dremmel and try to cut off all the extra stuff on the ends. I dunno, might work.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 4, 2010 1:21:17 GMT -5
bahhh i hate it when i jump the gun like that
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 3, 2010 18:51:34 GMT -5
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 3, 2010 17:05:47 GMT -5
Oh, and these are prolly too short for your mixer, but: cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290279471288&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123and, if you want i'll send ya my slider bookmarks, but you probly have most of 'em or similar. Well, for whoever: Good luck with these, lotsa dead ends, but in the long run, there's still time to change the road youre on. www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ny:True,Ro:0,Nea:True,N:474-4294918413-4294938399 www.wellgainelectronics.com/alpsslidevr50kbtravel20mm.aspxwww.wellgainelectronics.com/stackpole220286-3250k.aspxwww.surplustraders.net/a/0217.shtmlwww.ctscorp.com/components/Datasheets/448.pdfwww.etronic-parts.com/product_info.php/info/p572_Alpha-slide-potentiometer--60mm--linear-250K.htmlsearch.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CT2314-NDwww.potentiometer.com/pdf/BITC_psG.pdfwww.potentiometers.com/pdf/BITC_PS.pdfwww.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/TW-700139.pdfwww.mouser.com/catalog/636/672.pdfcgi.ebay.com/5-pcs-panasonic-30mm-slide-pot-110k-500k-EWAN-series-/290279471288?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43960138b8These last ones, the ebay link, look pretty good for guitars, I'll try em.
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 3, 2010 16:41:25 GMT -5
Ah, which incidentally means that if you only have a 500k pot (rotary, slide, whatever) then you can make it a 250k pot by adding a 500k res. to it?
Lol, JohnH, "dust, sweat and beer" isnt that an old band?
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 3, 2010 13:53:49 GMT -5
I saw this mentioned somewhere else, not sure if its correct or if it applies to guitars. I'm researching slider pots and having a hard time finding 250k or 500k in the sliders. So, can you just add a 150k resistor to a 100k slider pot e.g. www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/TW-700139.pdf ? I welcome any thoughts or links pertaining to slider pots, thanks. J
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Post by JFrankParnell on Jun 2, 2010 19:24:35 GMT -5
Exactamundo! I'm going to cut my two pgs in half, going to wire my current circuit into one of them, and start working on my crazy double-barrel mod on the other. With quick connectors on the wires, I'll be able to test out my new circuit, and be able to plug my working circuit back in for jam night if needed. I'm really a "figure one bit out at a time" kinda guy, testing physical locations and switches and stuff, not to mention figuring how to cram all my wacky switches in there. As for , heh, no kiddin'. I think if I can cut a straight line with a very thin kerf, it could be a permanent-ish feature, might be only slightly noticeable. Thats not going to fly once i get my custom flame-job pg made, but by then, I hope i have my circuits all dialed in.
I'm not sure how, what with the pups being screwed to the pg, but there might be a way to make the cut under the strings which would be fairly invisible.
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Post by JFrankParnell on May 29, 2010 16:56:11 GMT -5
ah, ok. I see it.
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Post by JFrankParnell on May 29, 2010 9:19:03 GMT -5
Cynical1, I listened to Legal Fiction, cool stuff! I didnt really critically listen though.
Is LFE an acronym for Legal Fiction or a program? Oh, Lame Free Encoder? Well, anyway, are you really letting sample rate drop or bit rate? I agree, Ashcat, sample rate conversion from 44.1k>32k is not recomended.
If you need to encode at 128kbs (damn you, Soundclick) I would suggest "-b 128" as the start of the command line sent to LAME. With the latest recomended LAME, etc. I suggest EAC or Lame Front End or a program that lets you use the latest Lame and lets you specify the command line, as both of these things together should result in the best mp3.
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