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Post by lunaalta on Sept 2, 2013 9:20:09 GMT -5
First thing I do when I change strings........LOL. Just joking........... you can carry on now......
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Hi
Aug 21, 2013 17:12:05 GMT -5
Post by lunaalta on Aug 21, 2013 17:12:05 GMT -5
What more need I say............? ...............except, Welcome to the Nutz House! Your taste in music is right up my street!! And there was I thinking, I was the only one.....
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Post by lunaalta on Aug 21, 2013 17:07:51 GMT -5
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Post by lunaalta on Aug 20, 2013 16:47:54 GMT -5
Although I agree with you, newey, haven't there been sales booms, maybe in the 70s or 80s? I would think production capabilities were quite high then, too. I don't know, I'm just asking...... that's an interesting question, from haydukej
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Post by lunaalta on Jul 27, 2013 10:55:32 GMT -5
Ouch, that hurts...........
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Post by lunaalta on Jul 18, 2013 7:42:36 GMT -5
Good video find, Newey, nice one. Especially the part about putting the iron on the opposite side of the wire to the solder, and let it flow through the wire, ensuring a good coating of solder. This is how I was taught, way back in the 1970s.
GD, don't forget to tin the back of the pot, as well! Both surfaces to be joined need tinning! Then you'll just need to bond the soldered surfaces together.
It would be a good idea to practice on some spare wire/pots, just to get used to how to do it. As has been mentioned, it is a little harder to solder to a pot, since the amount of metal involved (size of the pot) soaks the heat away.
When soldering components together or to a circuit board, extra care must be taken not to over heat, and damage, the components, but that's another story.
Good luck, and be careful not to burn yourself.
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Post by lunaalta on Jul 12, 2013 12:49:08 GMT -5
Yeah, right! As if you needed an excuse, GD......LOL. Maybe, the shorter length of string free to vibrate, at the 12th, inhibits the amount/length of possible sustaining of the vibration. A longer length string, has room for more, or more complex harmonics. Maybe¿
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Post by lunaalta on Jul 12, 2013 8:49:45 GMT -5
A bit late in the game, I know, but I just have to comment. I don't know how much, if any, a fingerboard affects the tonal character of a guitar. However, since the string vibration is happening on the bridge side of the fret, I doubt that the nut side, with finger to dampen, offers much, in the way of tone or sustain, with or without scalloping. But, since the fret is fitted, tightly, to the fingerboard, much of the vibrational energy in the string will likely be transferred through the fret directly to the fingerboard, as it is through the bridge to the body. I'm betting on sustain being affected by a circle of energy, from the string, through the bridge to the body, through to the neck and back to the string, via the fingerboard and fret. All this happening in the opposite direction, at the same time. If this can occur, without losses (due to inferior mechanical connections along the way) and without too much interference from phase anomalies due to the dual direction of energy transfer, then a reasonable sustain might be expected. But, then again, if the circuit, as described above, is mechanically tuned wrongly, you may get a situation in which the energy is self canceling. This might result in minimum sustain. I recently, well a couple of years ago, had the neck changed on my 73 strat. From one piece maple to maple/rosewood, and yes, there was a big difference in the tone (a not unpleasant warming of the tone). Other things may have influenced this, the old neck is pretty worn and the new neck has 4 instead of 3 bolts. So, who knows if the wood had any effect in the tonal change? I tend to think it did, but that's just a feeling. This is all guess work on my part, by the way, so please don't shoot me down, if there is a flaw in my thinking.
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Post by lunaalta on Jul 12, 2013 8:20:12 GMT -5
I think it would be unusual to find a wire that doesn't solder properly, since this is a very common way of joining wire, and a very efficient way too. Tinning the wire and connection is a very important step to getting a good connection. If both surfaces are well tinned, you'll just need to heat the solder surfaces to get them to connect. 'Tinning' is the act of applying a small amount of solder to both surfaces to be joined. If a surface has old solder on it, it is worth cleaning it off and applying new solder. The size of the back of a pot aids the dispertion of heat. Not desirable, since it can be hard to get to the correct temperature to melt your solder. Sometimes a hotter iron will help, but then be careful not to keep the heat on too long. Too much heat may damage parts close to your soldering place. Since this area will be hotter than normal, care should be taken to keep the surfaces in contact, without movement, until the solder has cooled sufficiently for it to harden. Not doing so is the main cause of 'dry joints'. As newey rightly comments, scratching the surface of the pot will remove any oxidation/dirt, helping you get solder to 'stick' better. This can also help if you are using old wire. This too can suffer from oxidation/dirt problems. So, either cut back your wire to a clean area, or scratch off the surface, with a blade, to expose nice bright areas to solder to. Flux is solder's greatest friend! You are probably using solder with flux within it's core. It is always advisable to clean off 'globs' of old solder from the iron and surfaces and touch some new solder on, just before you start your solder joint. This ensures there is some fresh flux involved, which can help the 'flow' of the solder.
Soldering is a bit like painting a house. Everyone says it is easy and anyone can do it. Problem is, not many people have learned the simple basics, and that's when things might go wrong.
You may know all of these things, of course, in which case, you can ignore the above. I just thought I'd cover bases, in case you don't have this knowledge, 'yet'.
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 20, 2013 9:08:01 GMT -5
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 17, 2013 14:17:19 GMT -5
Yup! 1 - 3 sounds good to me. Donations sounds best to me. I'm using jaguarpc, everything is free (lots of scripts available and easily utilised). Disc space and bandwidth unlimited!! Also cheap. www.jaguarpc.com
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 14, 2013 10:45:30 GMT -5
Is that 2, 3 or more springs.... .........sorry..........
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 14, 2013 10:37:40 GMT -5
Just a thought...........
You know, reliable hosting can be had for less than $100 US per year, less if you pay a couple or three years in advance. The hosting I'm thinking about includes several top notch forum scripts, plus hundreds of other things, like unlimited bandwidth, unlimited disc space, etc. I'm sure donations would be freely given, bearing in mind the great assistance you guys give out. $10 dollars from 10 members and all is sorted! Ads can also be placed if there is a shortfall...... I'd be more than willing to help with some of the techy side, if needs be, I was making websites for about 10 years, before I gave up pandering to the whims of idiot clients....LOL.
Just an idea......
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 6, 2013 9:50:11 GMT -5
From your foto of the fretboard (neck to the head), it looks like you have quite a bit of wear on the frets. I'd think that might have something to do with the 'sitar' problem. But I might be wrong....
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 3, 2013 13:49:06 GMT -5
A much better shade, thanks, though I did like the colours of the old site. No, I don't think you wanna go with white text on a dark background......
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 2, 2013 17:45:53 GMT -5
I just found that on the main forum page, at the bottom on the left within the 'Threads and Posts' section. Recent Posts. Not ideally separated (would be better listing the functions there, I think), and you get a list of the posts, without the rest of the threads. Best use the 'Recent threads' link next to it, which is actually a list of recently updated threads, more useful, I think. Is the blue gonna be a permanent feature, or can I put my shades away?
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 2, 2013 4:27:48 GMT -5
Apart from password failure (failure was mine ) all is good. Gonna take a bit to get used to the new layout...........
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 1, 2013 15:31:21 GMT -5
What? By a bunch of nutz? I wonder what it's like to have perfect pitch........I mean, is it a benefit or a curse? I was trying my hardest to hook up with a gorgeous Spanish bar owning friend of mine, a couple of years ago. I was jumping, when she asked if I'd teach her to play the guitar. Now, she was a music and maths teacher (in her real job, the bar was nights), she also already played the piano and cello! So, I took my guitar into the bar one night and as we sat down, I excused myself, to go get the tuner from my car. 'Don't bother, which note do you want?', she responded. She preceded to sing me an A........... Being an unbeliever, I rushed out and fetched the tuner. Sure as bears s******g in the woods, she was spot on, but SPOT on! I tested her on various notes, sharpened and flattened, at random. Blew the wind out of my amorous persuits, but amazed me, none the less. Getting back, I guess each individual is given a sprinkling of attributes, from the great salt seller in the sky, and shoved off the line!
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Post by lunaalta on Jun 1, 2013 7:32:39 GMT -5
I think peoples minds/brains work in different ways, why, I don't know. And so, peoples abilities vary accordingly. If you are good at maths/music/sports/etc, that doesn't make you better or worse than those who aren't (I'm sure we all agree with that), and those who are not good at those things might be better at putting bricks one on top of the other, or sailing a boat, or getting along with or organising people, or whatever. At school, I loved music, but was p****d when the musical director (was a big school) told me they didn't need a guitarist in the orchestra, so I could learn the oboe instead! 50 years later, I'm still playing the guitar, wishing I'd had some kind of training in my early life. When my daughter was young, her music teacher (a good friend) once refused to teach me music theory, because, she said, it would probably destroy the spontaneity I had in my playing, which is why she always booked me to play on her recordings. I've never had much problem with timing and always like to stand next to the drummer, when I'm out playing. When funk came along, I was in seventh heaven....LOL. I did read, ages ago, that there is a high probability that musicians will also be good at maths (except when it comes to paying the rent, it seems, LOL). I like maths, summing numbers I breeze through and can normally work stuff out quite quickly, even if by strange routes. My guitar playing? Well, I'm not impressed, after so many years, but others consider me to be pretty good. I like to play more with a feeling than have too much mapped out for me. Although I have earned money playing music, I always deferred to other ways of earning a living, having seen, from the inside, how hard it is to earn as a working musician. I have never been comfortable playing anything to earn money. I much prefer being offered money to play what I want to play. A small distinction, but important to me. A friend of mine bought himself a Gibson semi, gave up his very well paid job and took 2 years of top level music lessons. He had decided to be a pro musician. After a year of pretty lucrative session work, he gave it up, saying, although he could play whatever he was asked to, he just couldn't get the feel for stuff. He is a reasonably successful film director now..... Takes all sorts........... Just my 2 cents.............
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Post by lunaalta on May 18, 2013 9:11:29 GMT -5
Just a question, out of interest, here. Is the wood veneer likely/liable to compress a small amount due to the pressure of the nut, or is it dense enough not to?
Just wondering.....
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Post by lunaalta on May 16, 2013 9:02:36 GMT -5
I have the older style, 6 screw, Trem-Leo on my 73 Strat, never had any troubles or problems staying in tune, even when I waggle it deep and strong.... Probably just lucky, who knows. I've had to fit later bridge pieces because the old ones were so bunged up with gunk and corrosion had set in...... Too many sweaty gigs...........
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Post by lunaalta on May 13, 2013 9:21:56 GMT -5
He, he, he, now, that's a scary thought........LOL.
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 26, 2013 4:25:12 GMT -5
And then along comes another, who turns them into fries!
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 21, 2013 4:10:44 GMT -5
A haaa. That's the suggestion I was looking for but couldn't find....
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 21, 2013 3:59:37 GMT -5
Wise words from the cynical 1 GD, I haven't bought anything from Stewmac, so I can't give an opinion. Looking forward to see how this pans out....... Peace!
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 20, 2013 16:26:46 GMT -5
Hi palomino48. Welcome to the nutz house! I wouldn't tap from the speaker lines, if I were you. Not the best place. The headphone signal would work, but you will have to be careful setting your signal levels, so as not to get too much of a distorted signal. If you won't be using headphones, you could swap out the socket for a non switched one, which would save you from having cables or extra sockets. Maybe there is a way to control the level of the 'phones' out without affecting the amp level, but I can't help you with that, way over my head. Others here could probably improve on my suggestions, I'm sure someone will chime in soon. Again, welcome to guitarnuts2.
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 20, 2013 16:09:24 GMT -5
Ahhh, one of the quirks of the English language. Pliers are pairs, just like trousers. So, just one (pair of) pliers. Actually, I suggested wire cutters, since they would cut into the top of the screw remains, allowing you to spin the screw out. Use them vertically, as opposed to parallel to the head. Just try to nip the top of the screw enough to get purchase to turn it out a little at a time. Shouldn't do too much damage to the wood. Well, not as much as has already been done, anyway.... That's a neat tool, from Stewmac, looks like it would do the job nicely. I work, mostly, as a builder/decorator and have had to use this technique many times in the past. Sometimes it's not so pretty afterwards, but the job gets prettied up afterwards. Seems like cynical1 has some input, so, I'd wait to hear from him before you proceed, if you can, that is.... Hope you have a great day, cynical1, daughter's weddings are fun, expensive, but fun.
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 20, 2013 10:13:47 GMT -5
I'm no expert in these things, so feel free to offer better opinions...... My logic says, it would be best to try to remove the old screw, repair the damage and then start afresh and fit your new nut. Since, you could get into deeper 'sheet' by messing with the fitting of your new nut, without removing the old, making things harder to repair. It is always easier and faster to rectify errors earlier, rather than leaving them and compounding the problem for later. As to how to remove the broken screw....... well, I said I wasn't any kind of expert, but here goes. I'd mask off surrounding areas, then try to grab the end of the screw with a pair of strong wire cutters, being careful to only let them bite into the screw and not cut right through it. Once it protrudes a little you can get a better hold on it, perhaps with pliers/grips. Tip:I nearly always scratch some wax onto screws before putting them into wood, which makes them a/ go in easier without so much stress/heat/sweat and b/ come out easier, even after a long period of time, when corrosion/oxidation may have occurred. I'd be interested in others suggestions......
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Post by lunaalta on Apr 4, 2013 8:08:32 GMT -5
How cool is that? An excellent use of the Internet by guitar enthusiasts.
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Cyprus
Apr 3, 2013 15:23:51 GMT -5
Post by lunaalta on Apr 3, 2013 15:23:51 GMT -5
Ya catch more bears with honey than you do with vinegar!
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