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Post by sumgai on Nov 2, 2023 11:39:15 GMT -5
Just wired it up, and it works perfectly!! And with minimal noise. Congratulations! This is exactly what The NutzHouse is all about, no exceptions. Stick around, you'll soon find yourself offering help to other newcomers! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 30, 2023 22:41:58 GMT -5
Bethany,
The bottom line for you is this: batteries have an internal resistance, it goes along with the equation of Volts = Ohms X Amps (E = I x R, in Ohm's Law parlance). It is that resistance that works against you when connecting batteries in parallel. Battery A will "see a load" consisting of battery B, and thus will provide power to that load. As soon as A's power level drops below that of B, B begins supplying power to A. And the cycle repeats until both batteries are pretty much unusable. Left tied together long enough, one or both of them will die an irrecoverable death. Hence, absent an external means of recharging them, series is the name of the game.
As to headroom, I'll let others chime in, my head is not in a good place this evening. Sorry.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 29, 2023 11:47:27 GMT -5
unreg As it happens, there's a definition of separate grounding, and it boils down to simply isolating the signal grounds from the shielding grounds for as long as possible. What John Atchley did (you remember him, the original GuitarNuts operator) was to use a washer as a localized point of contact, and then run a single wire from there to the output jack sleeve. In fact, it makes no difference if you use that intermediate point or not, the idea of the effect is the same - isolation. newey says 'use the common terminal where the N- is connected', and that's just as good as any other method of centralizing a bunch of connections headed for the jack sleeve. I do agree, running wires all over creation is messy, and can be difficult to diagnose when problems arise. But the other side of that coin is an increased risk of poor or bad solder joints if too many wires are hooked together at one terminal - thus the idea of a washer. Nice and large, lots of room for individual wires to get soldered on to it without the increased likelyhood of disturbing other connections. In short, it all depends on one's proclivities - make it work for you, as you see fit. We're only suggesting guidelines. --------- Now to speak to the idea of 'back of the pot' grounding. As it happens, the problem of overheating the back of the pot and causing internal damage is only one factor in the discussion. The other is that by doing so, we're depending on the mechanical connection between that pot back and any shielding that the pot contacts when mounted. I'm speaking of copper foil, tape, paint, whatever. So long as it's supposed to shield the components from external interference (hum), then depending on it to do anything else, such as carry signal ground from the pickups, is folly. It may work, and it may do so without noise, but that's not a "best practice", that's simply being lazy. In my book of course, others may feel differently about it. But if it's folly as I suggest, then one needs to ask a tough question: just why did John A. start up his own website in the first place, with the singular goal of curing the hum problem for good? And lastly, if you open up a quality guitar, you find that the pot backs are hooked together with soldered wires, they don't necessarily depend on contact via the mounting point, etc. That's because they're bending over the third terminal and soldering that to the pot back. I've never done that, I've always used a wire to get from there to a common ground point. But a big exception would be that when I was in the repair business, I'd leave a customer's guitar alone, unless it came in with a complaint about hum or noise - then I'd revise it to my standards. IOW, I didn't fix what the customer didn't claim was broken. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 28, 2023 13:05:37 GMT -5
anders , Well, that didn't take long, nor too many 'updates' - you're golden! Between the four of us ( newey , Yogi B , unreg and myself), you've managed to successfully design a circuit that will fit your desires. Now all you need to do is put it together physically. However..... the bit about grounding. You show (again) the several ground points for both signal and noise abatement as being mixed on the back of pots. For all the pickup minuses (the Neck being switched), you should take those leads directly to the output jack's ground terminal, and not to the back of any of the pots. That will truly isolate as much as possible the signal grounds from the noise shielding grounds. We call that a "best practice". HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 27, 2023 19:29:07 GMT -5
^^^ Either that, or some rough, unfinished edges that should be smooth where contact is made, that's also a possibility. As with Yogi, I'd bet it barely passed muster at the factory Quality Control station, and was a latent problem just waiting to jump out at some poor user.
Another thing you might try.... ask the user to loosen the mounting nut on the shaft of the pot, and see what happens. Ya never know.....
HTH
sumgaio
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Post by sumgai on Oct 26, 2023 15:36:40 GMT -5
anders , Yogi B is correct, in my version of the circuit, the "shorted" coil will indeed be brought back into play as you reduce the volume of the N/M knob. In point of fact, at the lowest volume (N/M completely off), it will "choose" the other coil! This is because the series link is no longer pointing to the hot line, instead it is grounded. Following the signal path, that means that we've shorted the desired coil, and unshorted the remaining coil - it now sounds out. Not quite what we wanted. Now to be fair, I did anticipate this. It is my observation, over the years, that most players don't blend two volume controls by twisting one more than about 30% or perhaps 40%. Effectively, the pickup remaining at full volume simply swamps the reduced pickup, and that's not doing anything for one's tone. However, even at this small of a reduction, the no-longer-shorted coil is now in play, and will likely contribute some small amount of signal to the overall mix. (And remember, we're speaking only about the combo in Position 2, none of the other positions will suffer this malady.) What I've just described can only be named "dial-an-unsplit". (Search on "dial-a-split" to see what I mean.) So what I "forgot" about, and I have to admit that I ignored it, is that at the point where the pot is showing equal resistance to both halves (i.e. it's about 50% of the total resistance on each leg (regardless of taper)), the two coils of the Hb will be in series, but each coil will be in parallel with their associated resistances. The final result will be that the Bridge pup will sound out at a much reduced volume. This is because in Pos. 2, both Vol pots are in the circuit, so regardless of where the Bridge volume sits, the N/M Volume pot will control everything, just as it did before, when you first started this thread. Not a nice result. Yogi's suggestion of having a hanging hot for the Neck pup 'hot' and controlling the Neck minus lead is not a bad one. If you understood what he meant by that, then try to draw out a new diagram incorporating that suggestion. The reason I did not go for it is that it involves much more wire moving-around, thus increasing the risk of errors creeping in. But the idea has merit, and it's worth testing for yourself. (Actually, Yogi is rarely wrong when it comes to circuit design, so forge ahead with full confidence.) HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 26, 2023 11:48:14 GMT -5
If I could get a clue as to what the faults of the circuit I drew would be, and maybe an explanation of how the auto split works, I think I might be able to figure it out. newey has covered the auto-split portion, and we've both given you the low-down on the fault of your original diagrams - that being, both Vol pots go to the output jack. Here's how that plays out, to your detriment: Imagine an output jack with a resistor (a plain, ordinary, garden variety resistor) connected from the tip to ground. If that resistor is a small value, it will greatly interfere with the signal, but if it's a large value, then it won't do too much damage to the signal at all. Now, imagine that this resistor can be changed in value, from a high value to a low value. This variable resistor is our Volume pot, and it's physically connected at all times. By turning down the amount of resistance to zero (or very nearly zero), we are shorting the tip of the jack straight to ground, aren't we? And that happens regardless of whether a signal is actually passing through the pot, what counts is the fact that the pot is connected in that manner in the first place. Does all that make sense? Good. So the net effect is that we don't want Neck/Middle Vol pot to work when in Bridge only mode (Position 1). To do that, we need to control when the N/M Vol pot is going to the output jack, don't we. And that requires the fourth pole of the SuperSwitch. (The upper-right, in your provided diagram.) And that's why I said we can change the series link (the auto-split) from ground to the hot line - the effect is the same, we get one coil instead of both, as explained in detail by newey . And as he also explained, we can now move that N/M pot-controlling sub-system to somewhere that already has a hot connection on the common terminal. Now, in a post above, I alluded to your using three terminals to get somewhere close to the objective. I think you can now see that if you connect the N/M Vol pot to Positions 2, 3, 4 and 5 of the upper-right pole, and the common to the hot line, you will be controlling the N/M pot so that it is on in Positions 2, 3, 4 and 5, and off in Pos 1. Et Voila, goal achieved! And at no additional cost in parts, only a few wires moved around - how neat is that? Simple, eh? HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 25, 2023 12:38:23 GMT -5
anders , You're actually getting closer than I had imagined you might on your first outing. So you're on "sort of" the right track, which earns you a clue: The link that selects 'auto-split' in Position 2 does not need to go to ground, it can go to Hot just as easily. (More on that in a moment.) Now, looking at that idea, you can move the link to some other pole of the SuperSwitch, thus freeing up a pole for use as a control to switch in or out the Neck/Middle pickups and their controls. Run with that, and see what you get. (And please don't reverse or flip portions of the image, reading those labels made my brain hurt. ) As to the effect of splitting the humbucker, you need to pay attention to the following: 1) Polarity, as in hum is either reduced or enhanced. This can be easily solved. 2) Tonality of the selected coil. The coils (properly speaking, their magnetic fields) are so close to the end of the string as to make no practical difference in the resulting tonality. It is my opinion, but not necessarily that of other Nutz, that when combing either coil with another pickup, the resulting tones will be indistinguishable from each other, especially in a live gig setting. For that reason, hum cancelling should be your primary concern. If you truly want to have the selected coil nearest to the bridge but it now hums, you can simply rotate the entire pickup. Yes, it's that easy. Don't get into slug versus screw, that's a vanishingly small difference, and only an OCD-class individual will want to invest that kind of time and effort for so little return. Best to get on with the assembly, and get back to playing that much sooner. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 25, 2023 11:49:14 GMT -5
So, BH.... I've been wondering for some time now... You draw and contribute such beautiful diagrams, both schematic and assembly (wiring), yet I now need to know - are your diagrams showing the underside of a 'righty' or the top side of a 'lefty'?? And if it's the latter case, then are your controls wired "normal" as in clock-wise for maximum? Asking for a friend! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 24, 2023 22:41:11 GMT -5
billbit , Hi, and to The NutzHouse! The short answer is Yes. You can use any kind of switch you wish, so long as it performs the functions you wish to achieve. Toggle, slide, rotary, blade, push-button, push-pull, push-push, they're all fair game. The only limit is how you want to operate said switch(es) to change something from A to B (or C, etc.) The long answer was just covered, I'm sure you'll agree. But if you have questions, or need help "translating" between switch types, we're here to help... just ask. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 24, 2023 10:38:49 GMT -5
Take your time, we're not going anywhere in the foreseeable future.
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Post by sumgai on Oct 23, 2023 12:02:57 GMT -5
anders , Hi, and to The NutzHouse! The diagrams you posted both suffer from having the two volume pots connected directly to the output jack - that's why both Vol pots control the output level regardless of where the pup selector sits. Technically speaking, this could easily be rectified by merely reversing the Vol pot connections - what we call "backwards wiring". In fact, such a scheme is common for guitars like the Les Paul, the SG, and a myriad of other copy-cat guitars. This is used where a player might want to significantly reduce the volume level of only one pickup when there is a combination going on (a poor man's blend control, so to speak). It means that one pot won't be able to kill the entire signal, but the drawbacks are numerous. I suggest you use Search from the menu above, if you're curious. newey is correct in showing you how these things are assembled together so that it all works as (most) players expect - signal from the pickup to the Volume pot first, then to the switch, then to the output jack. (Ignoring the Tone control for a moment.) However, do take note that in his admittedly rushed diagram, the Neck and Middle pups are not heard when not selected, but the N/M pots are still connected directly to the output jack, so they will control the output signal at all times. Essentially, it looks like he ignored his own advice and put the switch first for those two pickups, but in actuality, he simply forgot to show you the rest of the switching arrangement. Not his usual kind of mistake, I assure you. Instead of providing a corrected diagram for you, I'm going to suggest that you take his advice and redraw the whole thing yourself. But now I'll caution you that I'm giving you a test that won't be easy to pass! Even given the clues I just mentioned, this will require some thinking "outside of the box". Post whatever you come up with, and we'll vet it for you. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 14, 2023 21:22:35 GMT -5
newey forgot to mention that he meant "the bushing of the switch is short". Whereas he's correct in that Les Pauls, and correct copies, require a long bushing because the switch is mounted directly to the wood. A short bushing switch is all that's needed for most pickguards, seeing as how they're usually plastic or thin wood. Just for comparison, chrisv313's link to an Amazon component has the long bushing. And it comes to me that I should also mention, you may see "tall bushing" instead of long bushing, depending on the seller. Hope that clears up any confusion....
chris, If that local tech values his standing in the guitar user community, he'll make you whole, regardless of the switch's condition. He's the one that listened to your description of what you wanted/needed, and in turn sold you the incorrect part - it's his error to fix, not yours. If he still shines you on, remind him that you have access to the internet, and you know exactly where to go to spread the word that he's not an honest tech. There's more than one "joetheguitartechsucks.com" website out there. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 14, 2023 20:57:13 GMT -5
frets , No, that's not it, sorry. But I was also wrong in my earlier analysis, and I can prove it. First, you stated that there's no output from S3 positions 2, 3, and 4 when S2 is 'up', right? Well, Pos 3 is the Middle pup only, so we can safely eliminate both other pickups, and S1 can go too - we'll just pretend that the purple and green wires are the same conductor, OK? Now, with no other components in the way of our signal, pulling up on S2 when S3 in pos 3 should still give us something from the Middle pup, eh? Our ears won't hear anything different about the tonality, it's the only pickup in the circuit. The crossover is not needed, but since it is present, then it only makes sense that sound should be forthcoming no matter whether S2 is up or down. The fact that no sound comes out when the switch is 'up' means that either there's a crazy bad solder joint, or the switch itself is bad internally. Test by unsoldering both ends of both cross wires. Hardwire the connections in place, first for 'regular' phase, and then for 'reverse' phase. Tapping the pickup magnets should work in each case. If not, then regardless of what an Ohm meter might say, S2 is bad. (Presuming that there are no suspicious solder joints.) tl;dr: Your logic in laying out the circuit was correct. You have either a bad component, or a bad solder joint. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 14, 2023 9:51:51 GMT -5
Man don't need more than 6 guitars As gumbo will be the first to tell you, more than six guitars is an addiction only if you're trying to quit! You might want to have a little chat with kitwn about that goal. Just saying..... sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 13, 2023 23:14:27 GMT -5
Well, yeah, life sometimes gets up in your face and goes "neener neener neener", just making you all the more upset. Tomorrow (Saturday the 14th) I'll have some time to dive in and see if I can't make it all come together for you. Stand by..... sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 12, 2023 22:10:02 GMT -5
frets,
I really didn't think it through in my last missive, I should've worked a bit longer to devise a solution.
In fact, I hadn't one, until ash piped up with "use the other side of S3", and that triggered me. Let me go away and see if I can make this work for you....
It'll take another day or two, so you know the drill.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 11, 2023 20:11:42 GMT -5
frets, It took me awhile to see it, because there are actually two problems here. To start off, you've wired the phase-reverse in the normal fashion, and that's fine so far. But what you didn't do was to look for all of the other connections that are found further along the signal path. Let's do that now. With S1 in the down position, we'll trace the yellow lead from the Bridge Hot back through the circuitry. Starting from S3, in Pos 2, 3 or 4, we see not only does Bridge Hot go to the output, but also to S1 via a purple wire. That now changes to green, and goes to S2 (lower left terminal). With S2 down, the "cross" changes the green wire to blue, which then goes to the Middle pickup, and comes out as black. Black goes back to S2 (left side common), and thence to ground. At this point, it's all working as intended. Per your statement that both parallel and series work as intended, I'll skip analyzing the series mode. Now let's see what happens when S2 is up. As before, purple from S3 goes back to S1. With S1 still down (parallel), purple becomes green, and then goes to S2, as before. But now, S2 is up, so that green becomes black, and heads towards the Mid pup. Being thorough, Green also crosses over the switch, but that's a dead end, so there's nothing to worry about at this point. Now let's continue following that black wire over to the pickup. Through the pup, and out the Hot lead (Blue), back to S1, and on to... ground. Hmm, wasn't this supposed to be "hot" line?! Yes indeed, we've just grounded our outgoing signal, via S2 up and the Middle pup. But what makes it all go South in a hurry is that our Bridge ground lead is also grounded at all times (in parallel mode), so, guess what? Yep, you can't have both pup leads going to ground at any time, not if you want an output signal. And that includes inserting an inductor into the path of either leg going to ground - ground is ground, and that's all she wrote. Almost forgot to mention, and this has bitten me on the butt more than once, as other Nutz will (gleefully) tell you... When you have a shorted pickup in parallel with other pickups, they are also shorted, which explains why there's no sound at all. I could also analyze the Series path, but at this point, I think that'd be an interesting exercise best left to the modder. The mistake is different, but the results are the same - no signal going out the jack. Cindi, can you find the error, and report back please? I'm pretty sure I've given you sufficient clues, but if not, additional help is here for the asking. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 4, 2023 19:11:41 GMT -5
Two problems there, Steve. The first is that one can't hang from upside-down*, so no, a coil attached to ground can't "generate" a noise, audible or otherwise. And that brings us to number two, which is to say that ground is another term for common, which then says that we are relating some point in the circuit to that common point. In turn, this means that we literally can't differentiate common from common, i.e. ground from ground. In the most simple terms imaginable, any potential noise generated in a 'grounded' pickup that has no other connection is simply going to ground straight-away, and thus it becomes a non-factor. And to be sure, there is a way that all of my above ramblings become null and void, and that is if the ground connection itself is bogus in the first place. Bad soldering job, bad mechanical connection, unseen loose screw (or nut), a number of things can contribute to the condition of a bad ground, which then gets blamed as a faulty circuit design, and Holy Moly, all hell lets out for breakfast. HTH sumgai * Unless you're in Australia...
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Post by sumgai on Oct 4, 2023 17:18:32 GMT -5
max, So here's a first-pass, but it's only a schematic, as drawn by an EE.... who has his good days and his not-so-good days. All labels are for reference only. Component values are best determined by the owner/player/user/modder, not by some hack on the internet. Also, I should note that the same warnings apply as written below the original diagram - do not ground either power supply lead, and do not ground both input and output cable shields. Instead, ground only one of those shields. This will help to reduce the risk of a ground loop. (And yes, the risk is very small, but if the manufacturer said to do it, might as well do it their way.) EDIT: A potential mod is to ensure that the 'OFF' is truly an OFF position, by virtue of grounding the output line - that's not happening in the original drawing, and thus a small amount of hum could potentially be heard from the amplifier while in OFF mode. Simply ground the center lug of 'B', like so: At some point, if no one else beats me to it, I'll find the time to do an actual layout for you. Keep in mind that I'm not all that gifted in "free-hand" stuff, things might not be all that easy to decipher..... HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Oct 4, 2023 12:08:37 GMT -5
max, I'm keen to help you out here, even though I'm pretty sure that the diagram was drawn by a technician during a serious psychotic break. Still, it was a matter of only a few moments to dope it out. My problem is time. If you can hold out for a day or two, I'll generate what I think it is that you're asking for, but if other members here beat me to it, then that's fine by me. And also fine by you, of course. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 23, 2023 0:50:41 GMT -5
1 ÷ A × B = 1/A × B (this legit) 1 ÷ AB = 1/A × B (this is where PEMDAS forces an incorrect answer) Err, I think your second example should be 1 ÷ AB = 1/A x 1/B. At least that's how I remember the distributive property. Or did I miss something in the translation? Because otherwise, 1/A x B being the same re-write for both equations should yield the same answer, no? sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 22, 2023 12:15:46 GMT -5
One of my rare moments of lucidity..... PEMDAS is the order of the day. It has one written rule, and one unwritten rule. Respectively, they are: a) work from left to right; b) scan the whole equation first to ensure that any parens and/or exponents are worked out first, then go back to the left-most term. One could suppose that another unwritten rule would be that there is no implication in showing multiplication of a parenthetical term - it's explicit, and that's all she wrote. There has never been an (intentional) case where someone wrote an expression and intended for one term to not be a multiplier of a parenthetical term. Accidental, yeah, sure, but intentional? I think not. And do remember that many, many expressions have two parenthetical terms placed right next to each other, without any other method of showing multiplication is intended - that's just a given. Err, that is, lacking any other operator immediately preceding the term. (Which, going back to our typewriter, that particular device had neither a centered (up and down) "x" nor "." to show intended multiplication. But still good times. ) So, the original equation shows that we scan first, and find that (2+2) must be determined before all else. Then we multiply that by 2 (PE MDAS, multiply before division) and finally, although we seemingly worked backwards (right to left), we derive the answer of X = 1. And yes, multiplication does come before division, as well as addition comes before subtraction. - we didn't make up 'PEMDAS' just because it easily rolls off the tongue. As in our original example, too many cases can be shown where reversing that order will render an incorrect answer. HTH BTW, nice presentation, reTrEaD. Good discussion, everyone. sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 22, 2023 10:56:25 GMT -5
I learned touch-typing (with the good ol' home row) in 1961. I didn't see my first Selectric until I entered the Army in 1966. I didn't actually use one until two years later, whereupon I had access to a pair of golfballs, Elite and Pica. Good times, good times.
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Post by sumgai on Sept 18, 2023 14:09:11 GMT -5
Bethany, I must start out by saying that I'm going to be quite negative in my analysis. First, no matter the pot's rotation, the signal is always going through a 0.1µf cap, and that always raises a flag for me. Is that value large enough to pass the entire frequency spectrum without loss of signal level? If so, then why have it in the first place? It's not like we're playing with a mix of high voltages and/or AC and DC here. Next, let's look at the input side. Here we see two paths for the incoming signal to get to the pot, one going through a cap, and other through a resistor. But wait.... each of those paths also go to ground through yet another cap or resistor, depending. So right there we see some signal strength being siphoned off to ground, before even getting into the pot. And that's the intention of the circuit - to cut signal strength at certain frequencies designated for each path, and then to "choose" from one path or the other by means of a pot... sort of a blend between the two paths. But that 'blend' won't put the whole picture back together again, at some point someone is going to say "I'm not hearing that full tone that I expect from this pickup". And that sums it up. In short, if you were Dick Clark, I'd tell you that I can't dance to that, it's got no beat. HGTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 18, 2023 13:32:44 GMT -5
Dumb question here: You don't mention anything about the battery... is it installed properly, and is it at full strength?
Smart question here: EMG is pretty highly regarded for their customer service. May we presume that you've emailed them for support?
In between question here: Do you have a multimeter available?
HTH
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 11, 2023 14:03:55 GMT -5
Mike, Thanks for those edits. ash is correct, reading and re-reading entire quotes gets a bit tedious after the umpteenth time. But beyond that, your contributions are having a positive effect here in The NutzHouse, and for that we all thank you. sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 9, 2023 18:08:11 GMT -5
They will sell you a 25 foot length for around $10 $0.40 per foot? That's a tad expensive, I think. Instead, find some multi-wire flat cable used in older computers. Either for old floppy or hard drives, or other peripherals. Used computer shops, or repair shops, usually have a bunch of this stuff laying around, often on its way to the dumpster. This stuff is most often 24 or 26 gauge solid core, an ideal size for use in guitar modding projects. Separate away as many individual pieces as you need, strip back insulation as needed, break out the soldering pencil, and you're good to go! HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Sept 3, 2023 12:17:38 GMT -5
{I see now that I should've replied to this sooner.} Oliver, your real problem here is two-fold - 'what is the width between the two mounting posts?' and 'what is the mounting post diameter?'. I looked at Fishman's site and found no specifications on the mounting-post width or diameter, so I can't answer your question directly - will it mount up without some major woodworking, or will it require such efforts, that's the real question. The rest of it, installing the electronics, is dirt simple. However, I must note that Thomann wants the price of a small car for the product, and that's unconscionable. Moreover, for that price, or much less, you can obtain a Graphtech Ghost system that will do what the Fishman does, only better, and with more options. I recommend that you check out graphtech.com for more info (and they have specifications for their stuff) before you lay out your money. (Addendum: if you want to order directly from Graphtech in Canada, be aware that shipping costs might be larger than you wish. If so, one of us can buy the unit and have it shipped to our home in the USA (or perhaps a Canadian Nutz?), then send it to you privately for much less money. Several have done this before, so just ask.) HTH sumgai Full disclosure: I have used Graphtech products for years, and in fact I live only about 3 hours driving time from their factory and offices. JFrankParnell lives about half that distance from them!
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Post by sumgai on Aug 26, 2023 23:16:10 GMT -5
Vince, Sorry, I was out of town for a couple of days, I'm just now seeing these for the first time. Kinda dense. I'll need to go through them section by section before I can make any further suggestions. By now you know the drill - I'm here, and them I'm not, and then again.... sumgai
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